[user=946]Chinahand[/user] wrote:

You will find that the Hornby and Peco track bed is what's known as 'open cell' foam which degrades very quickly into dust. Most 'closed cell' foams are usually suitable though 'Plastazote' is, IMHO, the best around as it's same stuff that Noch & Woodland Scenics use for their 'very expensive' pre-cut strips.

 

As Trevor says here, foam underlay disintregrates very quickly and I could never really understand why the likes of Peco, and being fully aware of this, continue selling it and without even as much as a warning of it's short life span.

I do know that they use it themselves on their permanant exhibition layouts, but what no one sees is it being changed regulary.

So, Cork is best by far, stuck and weighted down with neat PVA, but once the track is ballasted it's just as noisy, with, or without it, and all cork seems to do is to give a raised track bed effect as seen in this picture below.

Anyway, and having built many layouts myself, I have never used cork once - and most definately NOT foam underlay !



Allan.

 

Thanks Trevor,
LD45 is what they quote on the sites I found it for sale in UK.
Simon

Sorry for the delay in responding - work got in the way :roll:

Selitac Extruded polystyrene foam is the stuff I have used, the silver foil peels off, cuts easily, and it takes acrylic paint easily.

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/flooring/flooring-underlay/SELITac-5mm-Foam-Flooring-Underlay-12608623

While getting the above link spotted this

Diall 3mm Foam Self Adhesive Flooring Underlay

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/flooring/flooring-underlay/Diall-3mm-Foam-Self-Adhesive-Flooring-Underlay-12608617

I have used the green fibre underlay before - not for model railways and found getting a good cut difficult. I would expect like cellular foam (Peco, Hornby etc), glue would tend to make it solid as the pva sept through.

Paul

[user=888]paul_l[/user] wrote:

I would expect like cellular foam (Peco, Hornby etc), glue would tend to make it solid as the pva sept through.

Paul

Which is why I use closed-cell foam and Copydex latex adhesive. Everything stays flexible.

Whatever, I still haven't found anything that better quality, better value for money, and better fit for purpose than this stuff;-




http://www.charlescantrill.com/model-railway/cork-track-strips.html

Good site Paul.

I notice that their rolls are 98' long….

Should that be 98" ?
I think they should be told!

Shaun.

[user=567]gastwo[/user] wrote:

Good site Paul.

I notice that their rolls are 98' long….

Should that be 98" ?
I think they should be told!

Shaun.

Or, under the trade descriptions act (or sale of goods act - there must surely be some act or other that we could use ;-)),  you could demand the 98ft long roll at that price Shaun ………………:roll::roll::roll:

Must get there myself before everyone else realises how cheap it is ……………….

:cool: I assure you it IS 98 feet - I used to sell it, and was bought by a few professional model railway makers who will use nothing else.

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

[user=567]gastwo[/user] wrote:

Good site Paul.

I notice that their rolls are 98' long….

Should that be 98" ?
I think they should be told!

Shaun.

Or, under the trade descriptions act (or sale of goods act - there must surely be some act or other that we could use ;-)),  you could demand the 98ft long roll at that price Shaun ………………:roll::roll::roll:

Must get there myself before everyone else realises how cheap it is ……………….,

Not a 100% sure but i understand that a price displayed is just "an invitation to trade".A company doesn't have to sell if they make a mistake.I think the ones that do,do so from a customer service/goodwill point of view.I might be wrong and stand to be corrected.

Hi bike2steam,

Are the sheets mixed Cork and Rubber as well as the strips?

Simon

All I know that it is a composite of cork, and neoprene, as it says on their website - that's all.

Thanks for that link Paul.
I am seriously thinking of using an underlay on my track.
Those cork rolls seem to fit the bill.
Now decision's 1/8 or 1/16 by 1/1/2.
Noise is not so much a factor more the better look of a raised trackbed.
Anyway as soon as glue is applied between track and plywood be prepared for interesting acoustic's!
regards,
Derek.

The last time I put a sheet of cork on a board I used the "green" contact cement.  Unusually for me I actually followed the directions and it worked well.  I do think it is crucial that the sheet is laid absolutely flat which is why contact cement seems to me to be the best adhesive.

For my next foray, I have a stock of Woodland Scenics/C&L foam strips/sheet.

I've not seen Copydex over here.  The nearest thing I think is Matte medium - looks a lot like PVA but supposedly dries flexible.

John

Hi John.
I have a good supply of copydex, Although its a bit messy to use.
Maybe it has a different trade name in Canada?
I must investigate those roller,s Peter was posting about or use a rolling pin from the kitchen?

Derek

I have looked around without success Derek.  I recall doing a search a while ago and coming up empty handed.  Still, I'm sure I'll manage.

John

Hi all,
Well I made my decision and placed an order with Charlescantrill for 3 rolls of 1/16 by 1/1/2 cork strip.
I have some sheets of 1/16 cork so I can use them for the point underlay cutting them to shape.

regards,

Derek

Just an update,
My cork rolls arrived today, Big beasts,
No extra postal charge to Ireland which was a bonus.
I am impressed by the quality and service from this firm.

Now I have to rip up my test loop and get down to serious track laying.
Oh glue decisions. Hmm I have copydex, Or I might go to my local farmer's store and pick up a can of evostick or similar, Then open all my skylight windows.

regards,

Derek

Using Evostick with the windows closed is far more fun Derek ………………….

More seriously, from the discussions about the flexibility of Copydex in relation to sound control, I think I'd go with that.  Evostick will set rock hard, and very quickly I suspect.

Interestingly, on my Maxmill module, there's a significant difference in sound effects where it's been ballasted. :roll::roll::roll:

Hi Peter,
Hope you are fully recovered?
Evostick has wonderful fumes, that mixed with my tobacco smoke should send me into orbit!
I think I will use up that copydex first, Not that its any quieter than other glue,s.
I tried last year glueing track directly to the baseboard ply with it. The noise was something else.
I will just have to keep any glue out of contact with the track base and the ply?
Easier said than done.

regards and good to get your post.

Derek

A bit of a way to go yet Derek before I'm 100% but at least I'm heading in the right direction - thanks for asking. :thumbs

Regarding the noise factor, I'd guess, although I've never tried it, that a good layer of Copydex between the track and your baseboard would be quieter than either PVA or Evostick.  Adding a layer of cork first should make a significant difference.

From earlier threads on noise reduction, it seems the key is to make sure your ballast can't touch both the track and baseboard …………:roll::roll:  i.e. make sure the cork extends beyond the ballast edge.  I think it was also commented that track pins can act as "sound bridges" so ought to be removed once the track is fixed down.

With hindsight, I wish I'd covered my baseboard with cork and then added a second layer for the trackbed.  As it is, I don't have any "trackbed" as such so no ballast shoulders although the ply boards are effectively, completely covered by the cork.