I've been reading the baseboard threads and in particular those with the comments on the use of cork. I note that the cork is fixed using PVA glue.

Should this be diluted or straight from the container. Does it matter ?

I'm not anywhere near ready to commence my baseboard construction yet but I'm asking the question anyway.

Cheers Toto

Hi Tom,you can use pva,it will be fine but another option is to use copydex,it is more rubberised and could provide better sound insulation.

I use No Nails or one of the cheaper DIY store own brand equivalents. When I  use most adhesives (except superglue!) I like to spread it evenly, like I was spreading butter or jam, not just squirt it on in squiggles.

I use cork to give a more realistic track bed profile. Yes I use neat PVA, by running a thin line down the middle of the strip of cork, and then placed in position, and flattened down with a decorators edging roller for a few quid from a hardware shop,




the amount of PVA on the cork should be just enough for a very small amount to appear from under the cork once the roller has been used, so as you know it has spread to all the underneath of the cork. After rolling, ordinary house bricks are placed on the cork to make sure it stays in place until the PVA has hardened, and set,- I usually leave it for 24 hours. Doing this makes sure it is perfectly flat to take the track, many running problems are caused by uneven track. I use PVA to fix the track down, and again using the bricks again, but with cardboard sandwiched between to prevent damage to the rail tops, which is discarded once the PVA has set,- and the bricks removed . Hope this helps :cool:.

I completely cover my baseboard with cork rather than just the track bed.  I use neat PVA but I "paint" the baseboard AND the cork.  By the time I've got both done (I use cork rolls), it's tacky enough to give a good "grab".  I seldom weight it down because I've usually found that the PVA can come through the cork and stick my weights to it ………………

There has be some discussion about the sound deadening qualities of cork and it seems that, if the ballast touches the baseboard, i.e the space between rails and baseboard is bridged by the ballast,  there is virtually no insulation.  Keep the two apart, and it works much better - hence my complete cork cover.

I've never tried Copydex but it sound good - although expensive ……………:roll::roll::roll:  I use "builder's PVA - comes in buckets from builder's merchants and is much, much cheaper than the woodworking brands.

I have covered many floors (and internal walls) with cork and have always used the special adhesive that is made for this purpose.   It is fantastic and it's grip never fails with age plus it will adhere to virtually any surface.   (And for glue sniffers it has quite an interesting aroma!). 

Ken

But it's extremely expensive Ken.  At least, it is over here.  If you mean the brown stuff that looks a bit like runny putty, a small tub (500ml :roll::roll::roll:) costs around 6 euros.  It will do around 6 square feet-ish ………………:hmm

Having said that, yes it is very good glue for cork thumbs:thumbs

Thanks guys,

I will be covering the whole baseboard in cork too. I'llgo with neat PVA as I have a load of it already. I thought that it would have been dried Ian lot quicker though. 24 hours……..oh we'll.

Thanks again

Toto.

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

 …………..If you mean the brown stuff that looks a bit like runny……………

That's the stuff Peter but it's very thick when new!   It only goes runny when it's left for a long time but amazingly still has excellent adhesion - and it goes further too! ;-)

Ken

 

I meant when new Ken. :roll::roll::roll:

Putty, here, is very solid and comes in either "white" or brown.  The cork glue I've used is the same colour as the brown putty but far less dense.  You put it on with a spatula - it's far too stiff to brush on ……………

We're talking about the same stuff and yes, it is very good glue, dries quickly, and is nearly impossible to remove once it on.  However, it's still expensive …………….;-):cheers

The only problem with PVA is that it dries hard. I prefer to use Copydex (other similar products are available) which is latex based glue that remains flexible and does not form an acoustic bridge back to the wooden board top.

I hadn't thought about the PVA hardness causing the bridge Trevor - you may well have a point. :thumbs

The Cheaper the PVA or ideally Cement Conditioner the less hard it dries. So in this case the cheapest is best.
Simon

I use a contact adhesive, I only use track wide strips, it is instant stick so you can start track laying straight away, no waiting for the glue to dry.

Wayne

Hi Tom

I use foam underlay, glued down with PVA on to a 6mm ply base, as all my track is approx 90mm above the baseboard, I have used 50mm insulation board as risers.

The underlay is from B&Q (other suppliers are available), and costs around £20 per pack - 5m x 1m pack. Do not use solvent based glues on it.

Paul

Hard foam, or soft foam ( hope not!) like the stuff (?) supplied by Hornby & Peco.

I suspect he means the stuff used under "Klic" flooring Paul………:roll::roll:

I think it's a closed cell plastic type material.  I have wondered about that heavier green underfloor stuff before.  It's like the old soft fibre insulation board but denser.  On the other hand, it may "drum" a bit…..:hmm

You will find that the Hornby and Peco track bed is what's known as 'open cell' foam which degrades very quickly into dust. Most 'closed cell' foams are usually suitable though 'Plastazote' is, IMHO, the best around as it's same stuff that Noch & Woodland Scenics use for their 'very expensive' pre-cut strips.

Hi Trevor,
Looked up Plastazote and of course there are many different densities etc:roll:
Have you any idea what the Noch and Woodland Scenics ones are?
Simon

Hi Simon,

I'm not entirely sure what density Noch etc use but I'm using 2mm thick LD45 which looks and feels the same. I think anything softer would be too liable to 'dent' if you happen to press too hard on it.