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Station Building for Much Murkle - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 03:36 pm
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pnwood
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After completing the Goods Shed in card http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=4854&forum_id=14 I have decided to make the station building in plasticard. One of the main reasons for using plasticard is that the whole building is painted and I feel that it will be easier to achieve a good finish on plastic over a large area then it will be with card. Also with lots of fiddly framing to do glueing will be much easier and less messy with liquid poly cement then pva, but we will see ;-) 

It will be a freelance design based closely on the various designs of GWR timber station buildings such as Culkerton, Shipton on Stour. and the original Tetbury design. Here's the first installment.

After making some drawings the openings were plotted onto a sheet of 'evergreen' styrene




and then cut out very carefully and all cut edges cleaned up with a file. All faces were then rubbed over in a downward direction with coarse sandpaper which gives a subtle woodgrain finish.



Next job is to start adding the framing using 'evergreen' styrene strips. Once again I rubbed the face of the strips along the length to give a grain finish.





This is quite a tedious job and is testing my patience a bit. I'll post some more pics when I have completed this bit on all 4 sides but it may be a little while.

Bye for now. 



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 03:43 pm
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Robert
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It's a good start Nick. There aren't many scratchbuilding jobs that don't have their tedious bits I'm afraid but it's one of the things we all have to live with. Just think of the pleasure though when you have done those and it's all coming together, well worth it.
I'm al;so putting your build in the Forum Index as it should make a good future reference.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 03:57 pm
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henryparrot
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Nick great to see a scratchbuild in progress

Yes some bits can try your patience and a few scrap bits probably but you will end up with a totally unique station building.

i will watch your progress with a great deal of interest

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 04:48 pm
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pnwood
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Robert wrote:
It's a good start Nick. There aren't many scratchbuilding jobs that don't have their tedious bits I'm afraid but it's one of the things we all have to live with. Just think of the pleasure though when you have done those and it's all coming together, well worth it.
I'm al;so putting your build in the Forum Index as it should make a good future reference.


Thanks Bob, it's all the more frustrating when you spill half a bottle of liquid poly over your cutting mat. It's amazing how quickly it dissolves all the printed guide lines and turns the air blue :brickwall Thank goodness it missed all the important bits.

I'm not going to question you decision to put this thread into the index but it's early days yet and I would have thought that the Goods Shed build would have been a more worthy inclusion.

By the way, along with many others I'm sure I'm very pleased to see that you managed to find some of Perry's Good Shed build and with a bit of luck someone might be able to provide the missing pieces. :thumbs



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 04:51 pm
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pnwood
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henryparrot wrote:
Nick great to see a scratchbuild in progress

Yes some bits can try your patience and a few scrap bits probably but you will end up with a totally unique station building.

i will watch your progress with a great deal of interest

cheers Brian


Yes Brian, I agree, No pain no gain



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 04:59 pm
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Robert
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Your Goods Shed build is already in there Nick. It's under G for Goods Shed and C for Card Modelling.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 05:11 pm
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pnwood
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So it is, hadn't noticed that :oops::oops:

Thanks Bob



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 Posted: Wed Jan 6th, 2010 05:18 pm
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Robert
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My pleasure. We are always hungry for new members projects, just can't get enough of 'em. Greedy lot we are.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2010 12:46 pm
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pnwood
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Thanks to the snow I've been able to get a bit more done today. I finished the framing and set about making the louvres for the  ventilation of the conveniences.

Strips of plasticard glued at an angle onto a backing and then cut to size.




This is what the framing looks like with the louvres in place.



If you think that looks fiddly then take a look at this.




The strips represent cover beads over the planking joints. Cut from microstrip they are a b*^*&r to place in position and glue. As you can see I still have the bottom 2 frames to do (on the FIRST side) and it's taken me the best part of the afternoon :shock:

Oh well... we do it because we enjoy it :cheers



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 Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2010 12:57 pm
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Robert
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I think you should have stuck to card Nick, it would have been much quicker methinks.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2010 01:10 pm
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pnwood
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Robert wrote: I think you should have stuck to card Nick, it would have been much quicker methinks.
:hmmSeriously for this building I'm not too sure about that.

I've said this before but my main reason for going down the plastic route is because the whole building apart from the roof will need painting in GWR light / dark stone colours which would be more difficult to achieve on card as the pints available are not great on card. Also I'm not quite sure how I would have gone about forming the cover beading that I was complaining about earlier.

I genuinely prefer working in card and will use it whenever it suits but plastic has its merits sometimes, not least you can get higher on liquid poly fumes than you can on pva :lol::lol:

 

 



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 Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2010 02:55 pm
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georgejacksongenius
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Nick,
      Its coming on great.You'll end up with a cracking original building that you'll be proud of.
I've got every confidence in you! Keep up the good work,mate!!
:doublethumb

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2010 06:48 pm
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pnwood
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A little more progress has been made. The framing is complete and windows have been made, much better than my attempts on the good shed, practice makes perfect as they say I suppose :roll:. They are just temporarily stuck in place with some masking tape at the moment, hence why some of them look like they are opaque.




I've now made a start on the doors. They are carefully cut from thin card and will be layered to sandwich a thin clear plastic sheet between to form the glazing. Next job is to paint the frames before gluing them together.




:hmm Does anyone have any advice on the best glue to use to bond the card and plastic together without getting it all over the glazing?



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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2010 06:59 pm
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phill
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I was told to use selatape when i do Metcalf windows, found this works well.

Phill

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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 03:58 am
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Nick you could try double sided sticky tape,i have used it with some success,
a thin strip down each side of the window.

:thumbs:lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 03:22 pm
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Nick - Does anyone have any advice on the best glue to use to bond the card and plastic together without getting it all over the glazing?

If it is the right sort of plastic them MEK is perfect. If you have the patience to let it dry and will accept a slight loss of transparency, then clear matt acrylic varnish works exactly like a glue and is simply 'flooded' on once it has been diluted slightly with distilled water. I think it gives a scale opacity to plastic glazing, too. Do a practice piece, perhaps.

That is how these are stuck to the glazing, the bars are about 1/2mm wide in photo paper.



Keep it up, it's looking good

Doug




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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 03:28 pm
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 That's coming along great :thumbs, and as Owen has said i would use the double sided tape.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:10 pm
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That sure is a labour of love Nick but will be well worth it in the end.

You said early on that you cut the sides and openings out "very carefully" - how thick is the plasticard ?  If it's more than an odd mm thick, it really must have been "very carefully" !!

The slats look really effective and, once the "sharpness" has been dulled by painting, will look very prototypical I think. :pathead



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:30 pm
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pnwood
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dooferdog wrote:
Nick - Does anyone have any advice on the best glue to use to bond the card and plastic together without getting it all over the glazing?

If it is the right sort of plastic them MEK is perfect. If you have the patience to let it dry and will accept a slight loss of transparency, then clear matt acrylic varnish works exactly like a glue and is simply 'flooded' on once it has been diluted slightly with distilled water. I think it gives a scale opacity to plastic glazing, too. Do a practice piece, perhaps.

That is how these are stuck to the glazing, the bars are about 1/2mm wide in photo paper.



Keep it up, it's looking good

Doug




Dooferdog, thanks for that and your results look superb, trouble is I haven't got any MEK at the moment and don't have a supplier locally, will any liquid poly such as Humbrol do the same job? I will try this as a trial but for now I'm going to go down the route suggested by Phill, Owen and Kev and use double sided tape (Thanks guys).

I've successfully done a couple of doors and will post some pics up when the rest are are complete.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:38 pm
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A bit late in the day but if the glazing is an exact fit across the frames at the moment then what about shaving some off the glazing then use a thin layer of PVA along the bare edge of the card. Then sandwich them together.



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