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The Coming of the Surf Beach - Members Projects - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 03:20 am
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Alan
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Rick

Isn't it great when your plans all come together, and how you could see the beach in your mind, appearing before ( with lots of hard work and skill )your very eyes.

Very very good Rick, I really like the last image, it gives you a real sense of scale, it all looks just right to the eye :thumbs

Like the look of the moulded rocks as well :thumbs

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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 04:01 am
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Marty
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Enjoying the development of the surf beach Rick. Well done for taking the time to make it informative and entertaining.

cheers



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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 08:48 am
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Wayne Williams
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Rick, this is very interesting to me. I have multiple areas on my layout that must be removable. My problem is how to match up two adjacent sections that are both removable. It would be great to be able to remove either one without removing the other one, but I'm not sure exactly how I would hide to join.

Keep it up, I am enjoying watching this.

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 09:20 am
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Gwiwer
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Wayne - what you can do to hide joins will depend on your own scenery and whether any track and wiring is involved.

There are pictures in my layout thread showing very obvious joins where boards meet and which cannot be hidden; where the baseboards themselves lift out the land is flat and there are multiple tracks with associated wiring to undo and re-join.

The section on the surf beach has the benefit of not being a lift out board but is just a removable section of scenery. The gap will be hidden and it should be possible for you to adapt to something similar if you are only taking the lids off rather than removing actual baseboards - watch this space!

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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 01:20 pm
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owen69
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Wayne f you lookat my mn&s layout the corner with the farm and the village are both lift off sections to reach track under them, ok the farm lifts off in one piece but the
road up to the village is a join, the village is two pieces i hid the join under the
church and houses which lift off.

:cheers:thumbs:lol::lol::lol:

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 Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 03:03 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks Rick and Owen, I'll go and do some more reading (and watching)

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 05:16 am
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Gwiwer
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I have reached a stage where there is a lot of "more of the same" going on and it feels as though I am in danger of repeating myself at times. I have actually put in several hours on the railway over the past two days as I have the weekend to myself.

Here's some progress:

Every so often I add a little more sand to slowly build up the beach. I have come across a suggestion that the sand should simply be mixed with PVA and slapped around; my little test piece didn't look at all good and looks more like a mix of wet sand and water that you would see on a building site. So I shall continue with laying and spraying for now.

This is where I was at today


The whole thing isn't going to be sand. Ask anyone who knows such localities as Perranporth, Hayle or Holywell and they will vouch for the fact that there is actually quite a lot of green on the dunes backing the beach itself.

This stage requires the use of a good craft glue (PVA won't work) and some Woodland Scenics "Foliage" which comes in these open-weave sheets and is very different to, and not to be confused with, their "Fine-leaf Foliage" which looks like small tree branches. These sheets can be cut and will stretch out to give thinner cover as required.


You will see I have the tip of the glue bottle cut at 45° which helps to give a smooth application. Here the glue is eased onto the top of a vertical slope and allowed to run down. I roughly apply glue all around the required area - it doesn't need to cover every single bit of the surface but it is important to get the edges well stuck.


And here is the "foliage" stuck down and having been gently finger-pressed to give good adhesion; this also helps to spread the glue out and can result in you getting glue and greenery on your fingers.


Next I need to fill in the gaps. What I don't want is to also glue scatter to the flat sanded surfaces so out came the same protective piece of scrap card as you saw under the plaster yesterday! Using the dilute PVA spray I then gently moisten the greenery and sprinkle the desired scatter material in place. Here I am using a mix of "Fine Turf - Yellow" and "Earth Blend" from the Woodland Scenics range. It may be necessary to use several different colours and textures to get the result you want.


Finally I added some bright green scatter which I think is a Heki product though has long since lost its label, and oversprayed once more with dilute PVA. At this stage gentle finger touches or light brushing with a paintbrush will clean up any green scatter in the wrong places and help to create a slight edge to it where it meets the sandy path. Also added - and stuck with blobs of the craft glue - are some small pieces of Fine Leaf Foliage in medium green, light green and "dead foliage" varieties, and light scatterings of sand and fine yellow turf. The work has progressed far enough that THE FIRST PEOPLE have arrived on the beach :lol::cool: One stands with hands clasped behind his back surveying the scene while his partner seems to be dazzled by the sun-glare off the ocean below!


And the view from the top looking down to the inviting water below


Turning to the rocks which were cast yesterday they need to be painted so out come the paints, mixing tray and a brush. Here I am using three Woodland colours: Earth Undercoat (which is a brown shade), Slate Grey and Black which are all placed in the mixing tray


And roughly mixed as the intention is to create uneven colour.


A few moments with the paintbrush and we have the first coat of colour on our new casts. And dirty hands! Hopefully the variation in colour will show on the image


Finally the spare paint was used to roughly cover parts of the new landscape which will be bare rock when completed. This is not yet completely dried out so I have not covered with a thick even coat; there are still air gaps to permit drying of the whole thing.


Who me? Busy? Well, maybe ..... :mutley

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 07:51 am
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Wayne Williams
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Rick, I am impressed with what you have accomplished, and in such a short amount of time to boot.

Is the rock you have painted going on that slope that the excess paint was applied to?

Can I ask why you did not place the sand under the Woodland Scenics foliage? The sand would have shown through and looked quite normal, I would think, or would there have been a bonding issue with the sand under it?

I can see that when I get to this stage, I had better be prepared to clean up a mess. I can imagine sand getting everywhere let alone hydrocal dust, plaster, and paint. Yes I do make a mess of things when I get the paint out!

You have given us a great step by step presentation Rick, that I for one will be back to read again.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 08:02 am
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Gwiwer
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Wayne there are two reasons why I didn't put sand under the foliage.

First it is difficult to get the foliage to stay stuck on top of sand as it tends to pull the sand away from the plaster

Second is that is is remarkbly difficult to get sand to stick on near-vertical faces no matter what you use for adhesive. I don't doubt it would stick to the craft glue but would then look like bubbles of sand stuck to runs of glue.

Anyway - sand doesn't form vertical cliff faces as it is too unstable. There will be little bits poking through here and there when it's all finished.

Thanks for your comments. It has all come about very quickly though at the cost of leaving aside some of the jobs around the rest of the layout for now. The intention is to have this scene as near complete as can be in a month from now to show to some friends.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 08:04 am
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Gwiwer
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And yes the rocks are destined for the big white (and now partly-painted) area at the end of the board.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 08:07 am
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks for the explanation Rick, I hadn't thought about the vertical surface, so that makes good sense.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 01:02 pm
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Christrerise
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Hubba hubba hubba to the girlie in white.  Unfortunately I lost interest in the rest of the thread after that and will have to come back and pay more attention later :twisted:

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 01:16 pm
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georgejacksongenius
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Chris T,
         Amen on the girl in white! I think she could do a lot better than that guy with the big gut in the red shorts!:lol:
         Behind all that......some great modelling!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 02:20 pm
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owen69
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Hubba hubba hubba to the girlie in white.

sad oh so sad!!!
:pedal:pedal:mutley:cool:

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 02:30 pm
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henryparrot
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Rick

The part of the beach at Perranporth called Penhale beach  at the far end is a naturist beach so are you allowing for that facility on your Penhayle beach:lol:

And before anyone asks yes when we used to go fishing at Penhale of the rocks we did often see the naturists but i assure you many of them you did wish they would put their stuff back on:lol:

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 02:45 pm
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phill
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Looks really good Rick, love the step by step guide as well, thanks.

I reckon its not the female that needs looking at but the guy needs a top on, maybe he is half and half :shock::mutley

Phill

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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 04:11 am
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Gwiwer
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Today I experimented with that essential feature of dune scenery - marram grass.

I am using PVA adhesive, Woodland Scenics Field Grass in a couple of colours and a measure of luck!


I was unable to get a picture of me cutting the grass fibre so take it from me that it is easy to cut off into clumps of about 4 - 5mm. Hold the ends tightly between your finger tips and take a pair of scissors to the clump coming from the pack. This much takes two hands so there was none left for the camera :cry:

Place a modest blob of glue in a suitable spot bearing in mind that marram grass tends to grow in random and rough clumps anywhere around sandy soils.


Then simply place the grass fibre into the glue. It really does go in as easily as it looks and I didn't need a static applicator.


With gentle finger pressure (barely a touch) ease the clump out just a little to give the impression it has grown out and around rather than just straight up.


And here are the first of what will be many clumps of marram grass growing in the dunes. They will be trimmed when the glue is dry to give a slightly more even length but they don't need to be all the same!




Yesterday's post has vanished. I shall return later today and re-post that work.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 04:21 am
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MaxSouthOz
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The marram grass is the go, Rick.  The chick in the white bathers is covering her eyes so she can't see the man boobs. ;-)



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 06:15 am
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Gwiwer
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Yesterday I spent an hour uploading photos to the gallery and writing a post to describe the next stage of the work. The post appeared in the thread and I went away confident that it would stay there.

I found today when returning to this topic that the post had gone - vanished without trace. So here it is again to describe yesterday's work.

This has seen the beach scene blended into the existing car park area and looked like this before I started:


The green woodwork which is part of the original framework is going to become a stone wall and rock edge to the surf beach scene. I took a sheet of the Vollmer stone-effect card which is used extensively around the existing beach scene; here are two sheets illustrating the slightly embossed effect on the front and the rear marked out at 1mm intervals for easy cutting and shaping - they even give you ready-made tunnel portal cutouts!


Measure and mark the cut required; I always mark an X in the offcut area to ensure I know which piece is which. I also do the same when cutting wood. With this card I use sharp scissors to cut curved pieces but a Stanley knife will work equally well for straight cuts. I always cut through from the back to the front to avoid any risk of snagging and tearing the printed side.


The stone-effect card is then stuck to the woodwork with Craft Glue which will hold it hard and fast. The small gap between the old and new boards is then blocked with filler.


and sand placed on top of that; the sand has also been tamped slightly to form a level base for the rocks and has been sprayed with dilute PVA to keep it in place. Ignore the sunbathers in the car park - they clearly couldn't be bothered walking the extra few metres to the sand!


Remember the rock casts we made recently? One of those will do nicely for the beach end but has to be cut to fit. The pilot cut is made by gently scoring with a sharp blade two or three times. Very little pressure is needed or used - too much will cause the cast to shatter.


The full cut is then made by gently drawing the tenon saw through the pilot cut and only towards you - there is no pressure and no "going away" cut. This method successfully produced a clean cut without the cast breaking.


The resulting half-piece of the cast was then dusted to remove cutting swarf and liberally coated with craft glue on the bottom and the side to meet the stone wall. It was then eased down gently into the sand and offerred up to the stone wall. Any slight gaps can be filled by small stones. Here we see a mix of those Bonsai grains and the two sizes of grey ballast previously used elsewhere. The earthy edging is Hornby Skale Scenics "Fine Earth", a relatively new product which is a good colour for this job. The large stone are pressed into surplus craft glue oozing from the upper edges while the rest is stuck with a spray of dilute PVA.


The rock was trimmed off so as not to overhang the edge of the board and the white will be painted over later.

Finally the plasterwork from last week has dried and was painted.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 07:10 am
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benllben
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Wow, its so amazing, how something like that can be built so quickly, and without to much hassel. Now i know how to imporve my results with the woodland seincs field grass.

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