Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Getting You Started. > The Lineside. > Make Your Own Yard Lights To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Make Your Own Yard Lights - The Lineside. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 07:33 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12331
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I wanted yard lights which represented 50's quartz halogen or similar.  I couldn't find any in the shops, so I decided to make my own.

Each light requires one brass pole 2.4mm dia 140mm long and a brass sleve 3.3mm dia 45mm long,  two 1k ohm resistors, two 3mm high intensity (1600 MCD will do) LEDs, two 3/8"x1/8" flat washers and two pieces of rainbow wire about 230mm long.



Cut one wire off each resistor, leaving about 2mm.  Cut the other wire leaving about 23mm.  Solder the two short ends together. Strip about 10mm off one of the pieces of rainbow wire.  Tin the exposed wires and bend into a hook.  Wrap the hook around the two short ends of the resistors where they have been soldered together ans solder it on.



Slide the short length of brass tubing over the long piece and solder them together, leaving about 1cm poking out of one end.  It is only necessary to tack them together.

Feed the tail of the wire attached to the resistors down the brass tubing until there is about 3mm still exposed.  Put a drop of thick CA glue on the wire and pull it through until the joint is sitting on top of the tubing; but not touching.  The glue should roll up the wire and make a smooth boss between the resistors.



Put it aside for a few minutes until the glue has dried, making sure the resistors are at right angles to the brass tube.  When it has set up, test that there are no short circuits in the assembly.

Cut the short legs (negative) off the LEDs, leaving about 3mm.  Bend the long legs at right angles and solder the short legs to the ends of the resistor wires; overlapping by about 3mm.  Bend the wires at right angles and the LED long legs at 45 degrees, with about 1.5mm kicker at the end.



Solder the long legs of the LEDs to the brass tubung, so they form a brace for the lamp.  Hold the tube in a clamp so the assembly is upside down and put a drop of thick CA on either side of the LEDs.  Make sure the glue is placed on the collar of the LED and not the lens.  Drop a 1/8" washer on to each LED and position them centrally.



When the glue has set up, solder the other wire to the bottom of the thinner tube below the collar so that it will go through a 1/8" hole to mount it in the layout bed.  Put a small piece of shrink tubing over each LED and spray paint to taste.






____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 07:44 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
Robert
Legacy Member


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Benidorm, Alicante, Spain
Posts: 12264
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very nice how to Max. Much appreciated. I have moved the item from the online shopping to the Lineside here as it will be read by a lot more people, and it is a more appropriate section for your work.



____________________

Barchester
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 07:45 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
Alan
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max

Very impressive, How will you power them when they are all installed, and you MUST show us them all lit up on the layout.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 08:30 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12331
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Alan. They can be powered direct from the DCC bus as they have the resistors built in, but I have a regulated DC power supply for all my LEDs as DC is reputed to give them a longer life than AC. I'll try to get some shots. It was a bit stressful, what with Photobucket et al, but I'm getting there. Thanks to Bob for tidying up the post.



____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 08:40 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wow, Max!! This is great, and they look very good indeed. Many thanks for showing how it's done. I'd love to give it a try.

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 08:50 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2627
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max, what a great idea and I sure like how you explained it. Maybe even I could do that now.:wow

May have to look up how to "tin" something though!:hmm:hmm:hmm

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 08:54 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Tinning is just getting a thin film of solder over the wire prior to doing the actual solder.

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 09:55 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
Robert
Legacy Member


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Benidorm, Alicante, Spain
Posts: 12264
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have put this topic in the Forum Index so we don't lose track of it.



____________________

Barchester
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 11:18 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
sparky
Member
 

Joined: Thu Oct 18th, 2007
Location: Hitchin Herts, United Kingdom
Posts: 2561
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

They look great max ,what exactly is rainbow wire ?



____________________
reg
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 12:42 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
henryparrot
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max

a great tutorial many thanks

They sell similar things at express models but you would probably be looking a £80+ for the amount you have produced so with effort on your part you have saved yourself a great deal of money plus the satisfaction of making a unique yard light yourself.

cheers Brian.W

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 04:48 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
Lawrence
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Great stuff Max, now in N gauge please :mutley

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 05:48 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 12th post
Kevr
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 16th, 2007
Location: Llanharan, South Wales, United Kingdom
Posts: 1554
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

 

I wish i was clever enough to make something like that.

They are Brilliant (no pun intended):doublethumb



____________________
'Kev
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 11th, 2008 10:45 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 13th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12331
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks for the compliments, guys. Rainbow wire is used for internal connections in computers. It is about .5mm multistrand in about 8 colours moulded in a flat format of about 16 cables. Hope that makes sense. I don't have any new bits at the moment to count them properly. Not sure about N scale - I'll have to think about that one. I have also used the LEDs to make fluros. IanSA showed me how. I'll put a pic of them on when I do the requested "lit up" pics of these. Cheers Max



____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 05:45 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 14th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12331
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

As promised, pic of the lights in situ - including some shots of the 3mm HI LEDs used as fluro platform lights. Cheers
Max






____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 05:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 15th post
henryparrot
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max

They look really good and the fluo ones aswell look really good.

Little sideline business for you there Max`s model lighting.

Max on your layout that centre section that is still just baseboard it looks as if it will be difficult for you to work on that or am i not noticing something in the photographs?

cheers Brian.W

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 06:19 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 16th post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 6232
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very nice, great how to, I could follow it ;-)

Now I've got to be able to do a similar thing in N to represent GWR gas lamps :shock:



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 07:17 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 17th post
owen69
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Marty,you can get 1mm leds should be about right for n.;-):lol::lol::lol::cool:

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 08:30 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 18th post
Kevr
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 16th, 2007
Location: Llanharan, South Wales, United Kingdom
Posts: 1554
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

 

Those are The Business :wow



____________________
'Kev
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 09:22 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 19th post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I just love seeing them continuing off into the distance. Very impressive sight.

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 12th, 2008 09:49 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 20th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12331
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Brian. The baseboard is strong enough to sit on to work, and the layout is only 1.8m wide; and at 1140 off the floor, I can stand on one of my many IKEA stools and easily reach to the middle. I laid the track for the coal preparation plant behind the hills, and soldered the drop wires that way. I may be old, but I am still bendy .. .



____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 2669     Current time is 11:54 am Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Getting You Started. > The Lineside. > Make Your Own Yard Lights
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic

Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topic

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.