Recent Topics |
---|
![]() |
||||||
| ||||||
Moderated by: Spurno |
|
Getting out that buqqered-up Pozidrive screw... - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
Author | Post | |||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ||||||||||
Chubber Casseroled Badger ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
We've all done it, battery drill/driver, too fast, too carelessly and BBBbbbbrrrrrrr! An interestingly countersunk drill head. Possibly an egg-sucking exercise, I hope this tip might save you some time and frustration. Simply Dremel a fine slot across the head and use a beefy straight screwdriver. [Don't go too deep or it may shear off.] ![]() If it is in a prominent position, align the cut with the grain and repar wiith suitable filler, I find the same woods sawdust and PVA does nicely. Poop-poop! Doug ____________________ 'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
BCDR Moderator ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
Best not to use screws. Drill bigger pilot holes if you do. Set the torque low on the drill. New bit helps, they don't last forever. Nigel ____________________ ©Nigel C. Phillips |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
SRman Member ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
I have used Doug's trick a few times myself; it works a treat in most cases. I was recently rebuilding an old student notebook at school (actually making one good one out of two), but one of the screws holding the motherboard stripped. Unfortunately, it was also in a deep recess, so this method was out of the question because I needed to preserve the casing in good condition (the other notebook had a damaged casing but a good motherboard - it would not have mattered if this had occurred in that one!). ____________________ Jeff Lynn, Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Chubber Casseroled Badger ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
If it really is that important then gluing in a sacrificial Pozidrive bit with two part epoxy can help. It may well come off with a bit of BF&I (brute force and ignorance)! Douglas ____________________ 'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Longchap Full Member ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
In situations with more lightly loaded small screws used in non structural situations, I use a layer of thin rubber, such as an elastic band over the damaged screw head, to enable applied pressure from the driver head to be distributed to the screw. It usually works a treat. Bill ____________________ At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born ![]() |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Campaman Full Member ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
Cutting a slot also works with hexagon socket head screws (allen screws) when they have been damaged.
____________________ Cheers Andy |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Briperran Legacy Member ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
One of the best and easiest ways to do it is The hand impact driver on screws that have been in place for a long time internal and external ones. Get a good posi screwdriver with good solid handle on it place blade into head hold it there then with a hammer bang the end of the screwdriver handle whilst applying anti clockwise pressure to the screwdriver. That actually in most cases work better than using a power impact driver i know as i have to do it quite often. Brian ____________________ OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Petermac Admin ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
Has anyone tried those "screw extractor" bits one sees advertised. They claim to remove most damaged screws ............ I too tend to use the "hammer effect" Brian. Seems to loosen the grip of the threads, however, I'm not sure I'd use it on a delicate model railway ................. Having said that, I doubt there would be that need once the layout is built .............. The Dremel slot is a useful tip Doug. ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Chiefnerd Full Member
My photos:
![]() |
Yes Peter but it depends on the situation. Must have the right size (Murphy had something to say about that) then it must "bite" into the screw to be removed. Have found them excellent at times but on smaller hard drive screws not so good. | |||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
Petermac Admin ![]()
My photos:
![]() |
So, on balance Andrew, do you think they're worth buying ? I've often thought I might press the "buy" button when I've seen them advertised but to date, I've resisted .................. ____________________ 'Petermac |
|||||||||
|
| ||||||||||
The Q Full Member
My photos:
![]() |
if it's sticking out as much as that picture I tend to put a set of mole grips on and unwind it.. But yes dremeling if it's all the way in..
____________________ Now I've finally started a model railway...I've inherited another... |
|||||||||
|
This is topic ID = 16047 Current time is 05:44 pm |
You are here: Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > Getting out that buqqered-up Pozidrive screw... | |||
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin. Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text, click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above. To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below. To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below. |
|
||
|
Back to top of page | ||
| |||
Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster. |
All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted. |
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission. |
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason. © 2008 |
Recent Topics | Back to top of page | |
Powered by Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams. |