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| Everything Hornby - Everything Hornby. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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Passed Driver Full Member 
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Hi John Thank you for your reply. Unless I am getting a loco converted for sound I use the regular decoder from Hattons. In the meantime I have emailed Dave at Roxey Moudings, regarding Coach Kits. He suggested either a "Brake third 4 C1 and a Composite 4C6" alternatively "Brake Composite 4 C18 and a Full Third 4C3". He said that some Hornby locos are variable in there pulling power. Not surprisingly he did not mention any likely problems with his kits Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Brossard Member 
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Very brave of you to consider a brass coach kit Kevin. As far as construction is concerned, there are no problems with his kits. They go together well and are accurate. I didn't like the 6 wheel suspension design, but I think that's my only complaint. Don't forget the wheels, he can probably supply the correct type - Mansell I believe. If you do a brass kit you will need to solder it for best results. John ____________________ John |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi John. These are my first tentative steps, first of all I'm going to test its pulling power with Hornby coaches, if it pulls two on a slight incline, or three or four on the level, I would guess that it could be okay. Just one question about soldering an OO kit, is there much space to work freely inside(or do you solder the outside) oh just another thing about painting and lining? does that need a lot of skill? Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Brossard Member
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Tentative indeed. I think there's a logical progression with modelling. Just last week you were agonizing about the glue to use on plastic kits. It's quite a leap to soldering brass kits. The methodology is totally different. While plastic kits might be said to fall together when you shake the box, brass ones need a lot of finessing. Some are better than others. You do need a good soldering iron (ie expect to pay quite a few quid for one), flux and modelling solder. You WILL singe your fingers. To answer the question, the first rule is to work on the inside where excess solder won't show. Sometimes you have no choice but to work from the outside - then it's a bit of work to clean the surface. I'm trying to think of a good simple kit to start you off, like a wagon. I've done a couple of Bill Bedford (Mousa models) etched wagon kits but I wouldn't say they're easy. I've got four more waiting for my attention. Perhaps someone here knows of something suitable. My recommendation though, is that you start with the plastic kits you already have to get the feel of kit building, painting and lettering. John ____________________ John |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi John I weighed up the odds, and went for "Revell Contacta Pro" my order is in the hands of Amazon.I have soldered before, whether or not it is up to coach kit standard is another matter. I was worried about some of the things said about some kits that are likely to fall apart?? if mishandled. all the best Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Brossard Member
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Never heard of that but if its recommended for plastic it will work. A lot of people seem to buy the basics on line, I suppose shops that sell this kind of thing are becoming few and far between. If your kit falls apart, it wasn't assembled properly in the first place - that's on the builder. I don't think I've had anything fall apart. Quite the contrary, plastic models can be the very devil to get apart if the need arises, sometimes you can't without destroying them. So often I get the impression that people are afraid of solder and I usually hear the "burned fingers" refrain. I've never "burned" my fingers (implying lasting damage) but I singe them all the time. John ____________________ John |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi John. As you know, the secret of soldering is clean joints , flux and tinning. When I ventured into O gauge semaphore signals many years ago I realised that I could use thin plastic for spectacles in semaphore arms without melting the plastic. It is a pity that I didn't go for coach kits then, whether they were available or not I don't know. My finger tips are just about dead? I think that is to do with my health ? all the best Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Brossard Member
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It's surprising what you can get away with when soldering. The trick is to be able to make the joint in a trice before the plastic or whatever knows the iron is there. My fingers are getting quite calloused from all the abuse. John ____________________ John |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi John. I remember it well, now I don't feel much, and having a nibble from a hot frying pan, as I cook my Saturday special is much worse. all the best. Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi Mark, Jeff and John. Like the complete nutcase that I am( as far as hobbies are concerned) I have emailed Hornby again today congratulating them on the ex LSWR rebuilds , and saying that it was a pity, as I would like to purchase a set, and cut them down to 48 foot, and if I was confident of a good result, I would do just that.. all the best. Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi All. UPDATE, this is not a critique of Hornby, it is just that they made the carriage in question!As I made a "Ricket" with my previous attempt to get carriages to run with my Hornby M 7 I have had another idea buy one or two of the Hornby 58 foot LSWR Maunsell rebuilds. And then "Cut and Shut" it very carefully with a Razor Saw in the correct place, wherever that maybe? either saving parts or the underframe/ carriage and even Replacing the bogies?or anything else? What I need to do is locate a Diagram of the 48 foot LSWR coach. Can anyone please advise me? All the best. Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Hi Jeff. Thank you. This is another question about the Hornby M7 . After a certain amount of trouble and seeking advice, with a Peco three way point, which I couldn’t get my head around. Wind forward to the present, I ended up using a large radius R/H point, over which a Bachmann ex GWR 57xx has been running back and forth without any problems . But today I tried the M7 , what a difference, firstly the M7 seemed to reveal a “ short “, and when I tried it on a line with a “ Kadee magnet “ it got grounded. My question today , “ is the M7 low slung “ ? The way it got caught on the magnet? Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Briperran Legacy Member 
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Just looked at my M7`s Kevin there is nothing on them that is particularly low are you magnets well below railhead height? Brian ____________________ OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Brian. AFAIK. I am using the regular magnet and code 75 track, cutting out some sleepers. I have inspected my M7 and noticed a wire frame ? I don’t know if this answers your question? But my Bachmann ex GWR 57xx and several 0-6-0 Locos have no problems .Best wishes Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Briperran Legacy Member
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Passed Driver wrote: Brian. AFAIK. I am using the regular magnet and code 75 track, cutting out some sleepers. I have inspected my M7 and not ced a wire frame ? I don’t know if this answers your question? But my Bachmann ex GWR 57xx and several 0-6-0 Locos have no problems .Best wishes Kevin Yes i understand you have cut out sleepers but is the top of the magnet well below the top of the rail height Kevin? I.E. if you put a ruler across the top of the 2 rails the magnet should be lower. On the M7 the lowest points are the brake rod assembly which is set above the rail height for obvious reasons. Brian ____________________ OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Brian. Yes, Certainly, Absolutely, Affirmative. The rod assembly must be the wires that I mentioned.Best wishes Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Briperran Legacy Member
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Passed Driver wrote:Yes, Certainly, Absolutely, Affirmative. Kevin what does the above relate to as my psychic abilities are not working that well tonight Brian ____________________ OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Brian. Please refer to the question you posed in post 35 Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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Briperran Legacy Member
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Be more helpfull if you just answered "Yes the magnets are definitely below the railhead" Next question the magnets you have fitted is the width of them close to the rail either side if so the wheel flange could be catching on them. Also is your track pinned or glued if pinned are you sure there is not a pin that has not been knocked down properly. Brian ____________________ OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system |
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Passed Driver Full Member
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Briperran wrote: Be more helpfull if you just answered "Yes the magnets are definitely below the railhead"Yes . The magnet is below the rails in a central position, but because the sleepers have been cut to fit the magnet centrally between the rails, there isn’t any track pins, that section of track is glued down. As I have already stated all my Bachmann 0-6-0 Locos pass along the track where the magnet is situated, without any faltering.Best wishes Kevin ____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
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