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Bobby098
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hi ,well iv started a new layout much bigger then the first two 5ft 4 x 2ft  no name yet but something will come up  as I go along , the track plan is down  just a single track with sidings and a fiddle yard behind the backscene,  I hope to build my own control panal with switches for point motors ? that is where I hope you can help me .. heres a few pictures of the plan track lay down .... 
 1 question  :hmmm: were is the best place for the track feeds to go ?  thanks for looking bob







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Hello Bobby,
Based on what I can see ( are you planning on putting a Passing Siding in the front?) I would be putting your main feeders above your Engine shed on your mainline. You will need a simple jumper of one wire from your outer rail on the mainline to your outer rail on the front track which would allow you to shut off your engine shed by flipping the point to the curve. 
If I could be so bold to suggest, with your layout you should be able to skew the track slightly so that the straight track is not geometrically straight and parallel to the side of the layout. The visual trick should make your layout appear bigger than what it is. It should only be a couple of degrees offset, perhaps with a slight curve before the engine shed...
Good Luck
Trevor

Bobby098
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thanks xdford  i will do that with the track to the shed , thanks for your help:doublethumb

Last edited on Sat Nov 8th, 2014 08:52 am by Bobby098

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Hello Bobby,
I have taken the liberty of making a drawing on what I see and a suggested modification that may help with the realism.
The first diagram is how I see your layout


This second diagram shows where the bottom curve is replaced by the standard 22.5 degree curve and the section for your station platform is replaced by flex track. Again the idea is to give the track work a bit of flow. I would still suggest canting it a few degrees as per my previous post but I cannot slew the diagram easily in Paint



The wiring spots are also shown,
Hope this adds to it
Trevor 

Last edited on Sat Nov 8th, 2014 11:16 am by xdford

Bobby098
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hi Thanks xdford for your imput :doublethumb... iv have change my layout plans to look like your drawing , and it looks good but im having trouble with the jumper wire iv put the feeders wire above the engine shed , red ( live ) on the outer side and black (neg ) inner side..  iv put the jumper wire on the outer side to the outer bottom track (the long bit engine shed track ) but nothing happens ?? the line to the engine shed  is dead  :???:??  can you help ?  cheers bob

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Hi Bobby,
Does your loco run into the head shunt itself? The wiring jumper is so that when the bottom point is directed to the engine shed, you have power to both sides of the rail to drive into the shed and the point is an electrical switch.
With your train on the main line (from A to B), areas C and D are unpowered. Check out the rails with RED and BLUE. If each rail is powered (Red and Blue) then a train should run on it. The BLACK rails are unpowered.






When the Point at F is  thrown to the Head shunt at C the power runs through ...


When the Point at E  is  thrown to the Engine Shed, the power runs through to Engine Shed at D...



Is it possible that one of your points is not conducting properly? If you test run your train, into the head shunt first, then flick the point. If there is a stage your loco does not run, check that your point is conducting OK.
Again, Hope this helps
Trevor






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hi xdford thanks for your help ,  I try a different  point and now it all works good , so it was a faulty point that cause the headache next job is to put motors on all the points :sad: cheers bob

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hi , im going to have point motors on all my points (7)  can you tell me what sizes cdu I need ,...can I wire all 7 to 1 cdu unit  ,

cheers bob

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Hi Bob,
Have a study of the following diagram done for Ken some three years ago nearly


It shows Kens schematic with point motors fitted. The studs (black dots) are simply for brass screws that the prod can be touched to. If you want to follow through, I can have a go at your schematic for point motors.
Hope this helps,
Trevor

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hi xdford , I been looking around the net and I am thinking of doing the stud and probe way , not sure how to wire it up :???: but I will give it a go I think it be cheaper this way then buying new switches peco pl26 at £6 a time and I would need 7 .... so any help would be great  cheers bob ,, what do I need to get ? I have a cdu unit ,iv  got the peco motors to wire up , cheers bob

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Hi Bob,
I included Ken's schematic as I thought you would pick up the idea involved. Essentially all you need is a couple of cheesehead screws in a control panel (easily printed with Paint by the way) and a probe which could be a long screw soldered to a length of wire.
I'll try drawing it up shortly but I have a few tasks to do this morning (It is past 8 am as I write) with a schematic and a schematic wiring diagram for twin coil point motors, It should all be there by morning unless you are a real night owl.
Cheers
Trevor

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lol..  no night bird mate ...and  thanks for all you help trevor... drawiings would be great :doublethumb cheers bob

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Hi Bob and anyone else following this...
Realising it is later in the morning in England, sorry this is a bit late but I have had a lot on today. I was also tackling how to use a diode layout so that you only need one contact for each track. This is a diagram of how I have interpreted your layout schematic,



What I have done next is to superimpose the point motors and wiring onto the diagram. While it looks complex, it is only a case of a bit of slog work and testing each section as it goes. There is a legend in the corner. A Diode is a small electrical component that allows current to flow in one direction and block the path of electricity in the other. I will do a simplified diagram to show the nature of how the system works but not for a short while.
Here is the overall diagram













The Green wire is the common return wire and simply joins EVERY coil on one side The Red and Purple Wires are only different for clarity. Where you see coloured dots the same colour as the wire, the wires are electrically connected. Generally speaking it does not matter which side of the coil the negative wire is attached to.  The following is the same diagram minus the return wiring










More to follow... it would be good if this benefited more than just yourself
Regards

Trevor

Last edited on Sat Nov 15th, 2014 11:05 am by xdford

xdford
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Bob,
This is the next part showing how the simplest part of the circuit works
Trevor







Ed
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Don't know about Bob, but I think I'm missing something Trevor.

What are all the diodes for :???:

I'm not using any on my control panel/mimic board.


Ed



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Give me time Ed and I will get to it!!!I was trying to keep the cheesehead screw effect to minimum on the panel whereas many panels need two screws including the original one I designed for Ken .  Here is Bobs version of an explanation Pt 1 ...




The principle also holds true for the bottom set and I will get around to completing the diagrams to show the circuit if necessary.  This has taken a few hours out of my day today so I hope it is helpful to others in the group. I'll take my leave and check it out tomorrow,
Cheers
Trevor

Last edited on Sat Nov 15th, 2014 12:33 pm by xdford

Ed
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Gotcha, you're using one stud (cheese head screw) to set the route whereas I'm using two studs per point.

So in the junction in the top LH corner of the schematic you're using three studs and two diodes and I would just use four studs.

Swings and roundabouts.


Ed


Edit

PS I hope I'm not confusing things Bob.


Last edited on Sat Nov 15th, 2014 01:40 pm by Ed

xdford
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Bobby098 wrote: hi , im going to have point motors on all my points (7)  can you tell me what sizes cdu I need ,...can I wire all 7 to 1 cdu unit  ,

cheers bob

Hi there Bob,  Just to answer this question, the standard Peco CDU would only have to power three motors max at any time, whIch should be well within the capacity of the CDU.
Hope this helps
Trevor

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Quite interesting reading Trevor. I can now see how roads can be set by using the one stud, in the way you have wired it all together. Very clever I might add ! :thumbs Must admit though, I had to study the diagrams for some time to work it all out... ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Sun Nov 16th, 2014 11:03 am by Gary

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Hi All,  
Following Ed's input I checked and found that two diodes were not needed so I submit the following schematic minus the two diodes on the far right hand side. When doing the original mapping, I put them in as I was thinking in advance of other links and had left them in. It happens!!!!


I have left the original in the previous post for comparison, and Thanks Ed...
Regards


Trevor

Last edited on Sun Nov 16th, 2014 10:49 am by xdford

xdford
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Hello Bob and Ed and Gary and whoever else is following this...
I have taken the motor system diagram from the top left hand corner of the schematic and shown what it looks like as a SCHEMATIC and translate it to something that resembles a DIAGRAMMATIC picture showing the actual view given the limitations of PAINT.
If you need further explanation, please contact and let's see if we can get the detail right as I know some of us are very much dragged kicking and screaming to the edge of wiring etc - if you want living proof of this contact Ken with his N scale layout as by his own admission was easy going in the end or look at his thread.
Anyway, hopefully this will show enough of a translation to help a few of you,
Cheers
Trevor



Last edited on Mon Nov 17th, 2014 11:41 am by xdford

xdford
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Hi Gary
To intersperse your points ...
Quite interesting reading Trevor.
Thanks
I can now see how roads can be set by using the one stud, in the way you have wired it all together. 
I have known of using Diode Matrices etc for many years but never had the real need to apply them. Figuring out how BEST to install it is another issue
Very clever I might add ! :thumbs 
Thanks but as you may have gathered, it is not my actual idea, just an application. However thank you for your encouragement as you have given feedback on a few of my other posts which were nice. 
Must admit though, I had to study the diagrams for some time to work it all out... ;-);-)
I have news for you ... I had to study the diagrams for some time to work it all out too! And then I got it wrong or "over did" it ... oh well!!
Cheers, 
You too

Gary.

Trevor

Last edited on Mon Nov 17th, 2014 11:59 am by xdford

Marty
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Trevor,

Very clear, beautifully illustrated and nicely done.


I reckon you've missed a trick though. You could save two screws by activating the main and passing loop points at the top of the layout as pairs from a single screw in the middle.


Just a thought (and to let you know I'm following along ;-) )


Marty

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well in my mind I got the idea of the stud and probe,  thanks for the drawings explaning how  Trevor  :doublethumbthey will be a great help to me . but now I thinking about the panel ? how to do one ? plus as you can see from picture 1 were the switches are . its not very wide if I do the panel the other way it be hard to work if I stand at the front if you get what I mean ?any ideas :hmm

cheers bob ......

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Hi Bob,
A couple of questions
Those switches are to control your block sections of track? 
I presume you are using plywood for the switch panel?  What is the size of the panel you are using right now? We can fairly easily design one to the size you need. 
Is there any reason you have left so much space above the control panel when you could have extended your run?
Let us know...
Trevor

PS Marty, thanks for the feedback... appreciated mate!! 

Last edited on Mon Nov 17th, 2014 09:22 pm by xdford

Bobby098
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the panal only 3" wide,  the switches were to control the points  (got off ebay ) but they are on/on switches I don't think they are good for points as they burn the motors out ? so the idea off doing a stud and probe seems better , As for the room above the panal im hoping to mount a gaugemaster panal controller there ? with help form this forum ......  bob ... 

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Hi Bob and others,
I have taken a hint from Ed and Marty and noting your switches, I have redesigned your control panel so that you will only need TWO contact points for a probe. Essentially you can use the switches you have by using them for your point motors pointed in the direction of the track. When you want to change the points, set the switch or switches, set them and then touch your probe. The top group are set as a group of three while the bottom ones are set as a group of four which the PECO CDU should be able to handle
And Ed, Gary and Marty ... NO DIODES!!!!
Cheers and Hope this helps
Trevor




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Trevor, instead of the probe screws- a pushbutton.

I also doubt whether the Peco CDU has enough to do 4 solenoids at the same time.
It would be better to get one of these http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GMC-CDU&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+CDU

or the unit here http://microminiatures.co.uk/acatalog/CDU.html at £12.95

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Great tutorial Trevor.This will help all who wrestle with point motors and stud and probe systems and wireing these jobs.
Maybe your tutorial/diagrams could be stickied in the appropiate how to thread as well.
Cheers,
Derek.

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Sol wrote: Trevor, instead of the probe screws- a pushbutton.

I also doubt whether the Peco CDU has enough to do 4 solenoids at the same time.
It would be better to get one of these http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GMC-CDU&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+CDU

or the unit here http://microminiatures.co.uk/acatalog/CDU.html at £12.95


Hi Ron,  I have no direct experience with the CDU but the problem is fairly easily solved. For the top station use two contacts - one for the left hand set of points and another probe screw for the right hand one and two also for the bottom group. Split the wiring so that each contact is only dealing with two points
I have modified the diagram yet again
Hope this helps

Trevor




Last edited on Tue Nov 18th, 2014 10:25 am by xdford

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Trevor, you really are a wiz!!!    (And I speak from experience!). :)

Ken

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For the control panel itself, I have scaled the diagram so that the switches which are 12 x 11 mm and the cheesehead screws are shown as though  the board is semi translucent... The grid is scaled to 3 inches squared and the switches are close to proportion
Hope it is useful,
Regards
Trevor
Trevor

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And again, I correct myself ... Ken does this remind you of thousands of electrons being shuffled 10,000 miles at a time then being scrubbed ;-) ... Thanks for the compliment mate!
Trevor





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cheers trevor , are the switches I have got which are on/on ones are they ok :???: because I read that cause they are always on they burn the motors out ? sorry for being thick :oops:  cheers bob

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Hi Bob,
The switches are OK as long as you are going to rely on the probe and contact or pushbutton as per Sol's suggestion in line, If you have followed my diagram, you cannot have current flowing through the motors all the time because the probe acts like a switch and therefor the power to the coil is off. The motors will burn out in a minute or less if the power is not off.]
In essence, the operation is


1. You decide which way the train is to run and have your on/on switch set to the direction you want the points to be

2. Touch your probe on the screw head momentarily OR press the pushbutton switch.
3. CDU discharges across two coils. One coil if it is already set will take a short burst overload but no harm will be done. You will hear the motor hum and the points move
4  Put your probe away to one side until the next time you want/need to change direction.


If you do want to use Push buttons, make sure that you buy the NORMALLY OPEN  or "NO" type of switch. There is a type called a normally closed or NC type and they have the same body


More later if necessary

 
Trevor

Last edited on Tue Nov 18th, 2014 08:29 pm by xdford

Bobby098
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ok well the gaugmaster t1 as arrived with the GM41 and I have a panel control already so im going to build a control box at the end of the layout , get that up and running then I hope to start on the the points  control ..... cheers bob

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easy they said my :Red Card  got the gaugemaster t1 have to put a gm41 thermal cut out  on it but how ? then on my gaugemaster control panel at the back  I have 4 white choc block or whatever they are call for 4 wires to go in .. 2 from the transformer and 2 from the track .but which wire goes in which block ?  I think im out off my depth with this ? any help please  cheers bob

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Hi Bob,

Can you put up a picture of the back of the controller where the connections are please. It should be quite simple. 2 wires from your transformer into the controller and two fom the controller to the track.

Fom memory there will be a white 2 core flex attached to your controller. I am pretty sure that they go to your transformer but I would need to see it again.

Cheers

Toto

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hi trevor , this is not the one I had from you im going to use yours,   your right with the wires on yours and its straight forward but I got this from ebay , and I just wanted to know if I could wire it up right , but as you can tell I cant  .... heres the pic






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Hello Bob,  I have never actually seen one of these but there are a few signs to make it wired up and correct, Thanks for showing both sides.
Looking from the rear, on the right hand side. there are 4 small diodes which I illustrated earlier for you with two green wires leading to them. Those Diodes are (or at least should be...) rectifiers to make AC current into DC current. 

Put your wires from your transformer - one each - into those two terminals, and the other two wires from your track into the other two. The direction will not matter yet



In simpler terms, looking left to right at your terminal block and numbering them 1 to 4

1   Out put - Either wire to your track2.  Out put - The other wire to your track3.  Input -  Either wire from your transformer4,  Input - The other wire from your transformer

The input to your Gaugemaster unit can be DC and no harm will be done if you have the wires reversed from your transformer as the Diodes are formed in a what is called a Bridge





If your train is not going in the direction you want relative to the direction switch on your throttle, simply reverse the wires shown as red and black,
Hope this helps 
Regards
Trevor

Last edited on Fri Nov 21st, 2014 10:57 pm by xdford

Bobby098
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hi trevor and thanks for your help ....  but I am confused about the gm41  , are the blue wires in the pic  from my t1 transformer ? the green wires above do they go into the controller block  terminal ? and  the other 2 terminal  I wire the gm41  into them , the red wire to the track and the black also but theres no wires above ? little confused  am I being thick ?? I know yes lol .... can you draw a pic of the whole thing I find it easier from pictures .. cheers bob .....

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Bobby098 wrote:hi trevor and thanks for your help ....  but I am confused about the gm41  , are the blue wires in the pic  from my t1 transformer ? the green wires above do they go into the controller block  terminal ? and  the other 2 terminal  I wire the gm41  into them , the red wire to the track and the black also but theres no wires above ? little confused  am I being thick ?? I know yes lol .... can you draw a pic of the whole thing I find it easier from pictures .. cheers bob .....
Bob,
1.  The Blue wires in the picture are from your transformer  -  Direction of the wires does not matter!

2   The Green Wires are the same as the Green wires that appear in your second photo. You only have to connect the Blue wires in the open part of the terminal to go through to the green wires, which is why I showed them

There are no wires above the Terminal block where the Red and Black are in my diagram because there was no evidence of wires going to the terminal. From what I could see, I presume there were two tracks in the printed circuit board and I presume they are threaded through from under the board with a thin wire... but I cannot see it and I am not familiar with the unit. 
In essence, the diagram of the terminal block is my interpretation of your photo immediately before it and just worry about your 4 connections on the bottom end


EDIT
It is late here so I will update a diagram for you when I can tomorrow!


Regards
Trevor

Last edited on Sat Nov 22nd, 2014 11:51 am by xdford

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ok  I wait for your pic sorry for being a pain in the :Red Card, I think im out off my depth with this one but I don't like to give up .... cheers bob .....

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Its OK Bob, I stayed up...



WHATEVER YOU DO, IF YOU WIRE THE TRANSFORMER ON THE MAINS SIDE, MAKE SURE YOUR TRANSFORMER HAS A GOOD COVER OVER IT TO PROTECT YOU FROM EXPOSURE TO THE MAINS POWER OR GET AN ELECTRICIAN TO CHECK IT. PERHAPS VISIT THE SDMRC IN ABBOTSKERSWELL AND ASK FOR SOME ASSISTANCE WITH THAT?
Regards
Trevor




Bobby098
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ok,  well im not going to mess around with electrics ( don't know what im doing  ) so making my own control box is now out the door,  better safe then sorry .... so its plan b   I will fix a transformer and put my point controls at the end off the layout , pictures will follow,, I still will do a control box/control panel on my next layout but with the gaugemaster m1  but I like to thank all the people on here who try to help me ,just I was not happy doing it  too young to die ....:lol:.   cheers bob

Last edited on Mon Nov 24th, 2014 08:11 pm by Bobby098

Bobby098
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hi  all , well I hope to get started on this layout once again after I been in and out of hospital over the last few months with kidney problems and having some dialysis , i feel fit enough now to start again and get back into this great hobby , i will put pictures up as i go along ... cheers bob

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G'day Bob,

Had wondered where you had disappeared to.:???: I trust you are well now after your hiatus and you are recovering fine. I see you are ready to get back into it again. :thumbs  I'll look forward to your updates. Take care.

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Bob,great news that you're on the mend.Good luck with your new plans.

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Hi Bob, welcome back.

Glad to hear your feeling better.


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Hi Bob,
Welcome back and glad you are on the mend as I have incidentally also been! It's not a good feeling!
Just wondering if your initial power pack prior to getting the Gaugemaster was say a H&M or Triang or similar. I have read through your replies several times and wondered what you used to test your track first off!
Hope what we covered has helped you even a little!
Cheers from Oz
Trevor

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hi thanks for all your kind words . hi trevor  the power controls I have are . one is a H&M single track , the other one is a Gaugemaster twin track ..... iv started on the groundwork over the weekend , hills tunnel, walling ,roads ,










well it was great getting back into it thanks for looking .. cheers bob

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Hello Bob,
Like the base of your scenery work... well done mate!!
I looked at my earlier diagram and there is an easier way to couple up your Gaugemaster throttle using your H&M unit and you will not have a problem dying young as a result of electrical misadventures... at least I hope you don't...




As far as I know, it does not matter which way around the GM41 is connected and the AC terminals are not a problem either. You might like to get two  Banana plugs to make a firm connection into the H&M unit which you would solder or screw to wires into. Your local electronics place should have these.

If you need a soldering lesson, check out my web site

  http://www.xdford.digitalzones.com/soldering1.htm 

You can see banana plug types here...

http://www.jaycar.com.au/search?text=banana+plugs&CSRFToken=4d6482b5-eb0c-4627-bd45-2ea1705cfae7  

but I would suggest the following type...

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Banana/Red-Banana-4mm-Plug/p/PP0400

Keep us posted

Regards from Oz

Trevor


Last edited on Tue Apr 28th, 2015 03:05 am by xdford

Bobby098
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hi well iv been busy since the last time iv been on here , there is a big jump from the pictures you seen and the pictures now , I did take pictures of the layout as I went along on my phone but unfortunately grandson drop my phone  :( have now a new one so I can show you as I go along ,, see what you think cheers bob









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Hi Bob,

Another fantastic creation from yourself. The scenics as before are truly in a world of their own.

Keep up the goo dork and keep the pictures coming.

Cheers

Toto

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Great work.

We also use the H&M units to power our DC layout.
To take out AC on the side we use RCA plugs with the metal circle surround cut off with a Dremel cutting disk. Our local Jaycar store offers these plugs in a choice of colours. They screw apart to allow wires to be connected inside the plastic collar.
Andrew

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Very nice work there Bob. You certainly have an eye for scenics, something I admire. Looking foward to the scenics around the tracks etc. Keep the good work coming. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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thanks gary ,,:) ... well finish off the ballasting ( not my favorite job ) build the signal box and engine shed both by ratio , bit more scenery done  as well .. 
 
 



 thanks for looking ... bob

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Just caught up with this thread and I am loving the details.
Gives you inspiration for what I have to come.
Great work on the layout and the ballasting was worth the effort.
Keep up the great work.

ATB,
Ian  :mrgreen:

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Nice work Bob, the scenics flow well the buildings are excellent and fit well into the landscape, good work on the ballasting it is all coming together well :thumbs.

Pete.

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 hi  thanks all for your kind compliments ,:doublethumb little bit more scenery done ,build a little hut near the engine shed.  put a yard lamp there as well , not looking to bad I hope , more to come thanks for looking bob .

 

Last edited on Tue May 19th, 2015 06:21 pm by Bobby098

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Looking fantastic, Bob.

Well impressed.  :thumbs

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hi been busy with more scenery  at the other end of this layout ,also the road has been  done ,lots  more to do , more pictures will fellow cheers bob










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Hells Bells Bob, when you get the bit between your teeth you don,t hang about mate! well done,:thumbs :thumbs, the scenery is great, the buildings look fantastic, all we need now are some locos and stock, what do you have in mind? they are going to have to be pretty good to match the standard you have set your self.
Cheers Pete.   

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hi and thanks pete , the reason I do my layouts so quickly is I have all day to do it , plus I love doing the scenery , as for the trains that's not my strong point :sad: I have a few steam trains plus coal  wagons  I will put on the layout to see what it looks like and take a few pictures ,   but I will sell this layout when finish..... then I plan to do one for myself 40s -50s era .....  cheers bob

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Hi Bob Do my eyes deceive me?? did you say a 6x4 baseboard
well you have been busy, I did not know one could get so much scenery in such a space.There I am worried about "oo" on 11 feet by 2 feet, I didn't know whether "N" would have been better, but I do not have "N" scale hands.
all the best Kevin

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hi kevin  .. this layout is 5ft x 2ft n scale ,  I only have a small space to do my layouts  so I work in N gauge as you can do a lot in a small space .. I would like to do a oo scale layout but not got the room :sad:.     cheers bob

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well thanks you for the picture off the week :) ,   Well its getting there,  lots more done ,fencing , trees , grave stones , im happy with look off this layout , still more to do,  building the station (ratio ) next and  more tree building. I will take some  pictures with trains and wagons on the layout ;-)  thanks for looking bob ...
















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Congrats on Alan's Picture of the Week. A well deserved spot to showcase your talent.

Cheers, Gary.

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For N scale -well done.

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Fantastic Bob,

Another great layout and an incredible talent.

Cheers

Toto

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Well done Bob, congrats on picture of the week, really well deserved I love the new pics a real sense of space and perspective you have got an eye for the detail without cramming in too much, great!
Pete. 

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well I added a ramp   thanks for letting me know about the ramps being compulsory,  just needs tidying up which I do later ,I also made a crane by the goods shed , stll a lot to do  ... thanks for looking .... bob


 before


after



Bobby098
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Can anyone help me for a name for this layout ?? 

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What's narrative, Bob?  Where is it located and which period?

Cheers

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Take your own name and call it Robertstown perhaps?  There is a place in South Australia and it was a railway destination at one point! It does look good... have you run trains on it yet?
Cheers
Trevor

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well thank you for all the names , still not sure what to call it  :???: but I added few pictures with trains and wagons ,also I have added lamps near the goods shed and have finish off the new ramp and the station .. hope you like . cheers bob

 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




Bobby098
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well its finished , :doublethumb im going to call this layout  Meadowfield  I just like the name , and it suits the layout ..... there is a  small village in County Durham,  call this name but this layout has nothing to do with it ....... pure fictional  ..... im just waiting for a few things then I will take a few pictures of this layout in its full glory.... hope you like the name  ,  cheers bob

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Well named and well done Bob. pleasure to read the thread!:)

Cheers
Ron

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My first visit here Bob and I love your scenic work, there's plenty of thought and detail gone into them as is obvious from the pictures.

Nice work.

Jim

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hi thanks all,  :) v just added  this for fun order by my grandson ;-) and I think it looks ok , what do you think  cheers bob ......






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hi all , well having trouble with the plane propeller just cant get it to look right ,  :hmmm: but it will not beat me ,mean time the layout is finished iv taken a few pictures off the layout in its full glory .. lets me know what you think cheers bob ..


 


 
 
 
 

 
 

 


 


 


 


 


 and the best till last :)  grandson playing trains .....

 


 

 

 

Last edited on Wed Jun 17th, 2015 08:39 pm by Bobby098

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Hi Bob,

A great result, as proved by that last and also the best photo.

Very well done and thank you for sharing.

Bill :)

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Another great little layout Bob :thumbs

(Last picture says it all :doublethumb)




Ed


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Brilliant!! 

Pete.

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                                :doublethumb Excellent work Bob. The layout looks fantastic.  :doublethumb

Cheers, Gary.

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I have just caught up on this layout. Very impressed with the quality and detail of the scenery, as well as the speed you work!

Regarding the plane, if we can see the propellor blades then the guy is in serious trouble - how about a disc of clear plastic of the same diameter. I've seen that done and it look more like the engine is turning.

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Also regarding the aircraft Bob: you could simply remove the prop blades, leaving just the spinner, filed smooth and touched up as appropriate.

Bill :)

Bobby098
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hi all . thanks for all your nice compliment about this layout  :doublethumb the layout it self is now finish
I think I have sorted the propeller out . am happy with the result, I cut a circle clear plastic then rub yellow paint around the edge I took a picture also some pictures off meadowfield at night ..once again thanks all for all your help that you gave me  :cheers
 

  

 


 


 


 

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Fantastic work bob. Another mini masterpiece.

Well done

Toto

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Well done mate I love the night time shots! So, whats the next project to be? looking forward to seeing it.

Cheers Pete. 

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Great little layout Bob ,well done ! One thing...the last image seams to have disappeared ? Looking forward to seeing your next project get off the ground

Cheers


 Matt

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hi all , the layout has now been sold :doublethumb  I am well chuff .....  now I will sit down and draw another plan up for my next layout then I be back on this great site asking more silly question and more help .... once again thank you all for your help and nice compliments .... cheers bob

Last edited on Thu Jul 2nd, 2015 07:41 pm by Bobby098

toto
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Congratulations Bob.

Can't wait to see the next layout start.

Cheers

Toto


                 

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