Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Model Railway Layouts. > Members Personal Layouts. > new layout ..no name yet .. To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:    1  2  3  4  5  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

new layout ..no name yet .. - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2014 07:26 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

hi ,well iv started a new layout much bigger then the first two 5ft 4 x 2ft  no name yet but something will come up  as I go along , the track plan is down  just a single track with sidings and a fiddle yard behind the backscene,  I hope to build my own control panal with switches for point motors ? that is where I hope you can help me .. heres a few pictures of the plan track lay down .... 
 1 question  :hmmm: were is the best place for the track feeds to go ?  thanks for looking bob







Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2014 08:24 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hello Bobby,
Based on what I can see ( are you planning on putting a Passing Siding in the front?) I would be putting your main feeders above your Engine shed on your mainline. You will need a simple jumper of one wire from your outer rail on the mainline to your outer rail on the front track which would allow you to shut off your engine shed by flipping the point to the curve. 
If I could be so bold to suggest, with your layout you should be able to skew the track slightly so that the straight track is not geometrically straight and parallel to the side of the layout. The visual trick should make your layout appear bigger than what it is. It should only be a couple of degrees offset, perhaps with a slight curve before the engine shed...
Good Luck
Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2014 08:51 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

thanks xdford  i will do that with the track to the shed , thanks for your help:doublethumb

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2014 11:14 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hello Bobby,
I have taken the liberty of making a drawing on what I see and a suggested modification that may help with the realism.
The first diagram is how I see your layout


This second diagram shows where the bottom curve is replaced by the standard 22.5 degree curve and the section for your station platform is replaced by flex track. Again the idea is to give the track work a bit of flow. I would still suggest canting it a few degrees as per my previous post but I cannot slew the diagram easily in Paint



The wiring spots are also shown,
Hope this adds to it
Trevor 

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2014 06:49 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

hi Thanks xdford for your imput :doublethumb... iv have change my layout plans to look like your drawing , and it looks good but im having trouble with the jumper wire iv put the feeders wire above the engine shed , red ( live ) on the outer side and black (neg ) inner side..  iv put the jumper wire on the outer side to the outer bottom track (the long bit engine shed track ) but nothing happens ?? the line to the engine shed  is dead  :???:??  can you help ?  cheers bob

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2014 10:09 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Bobby,
Does your loco run into the head shunt itself? The wiring jumper is so that when the bottom point is directed to the engine shed, you have power to both sides of the rail to drive into the shed and the point is an electrical switch.
With your train on the main line (from A to B), areas C and D are unpowered. Check out the rails with RED and BLUE. If each rail is powered (Red and Blue) then a train should run on it. The BLACK rails are unpowered.






When the Point at F is  thrown to the Head shunt at C the power runs through ...


When the Point at E  is  thrown to the Engine Shed, the power runs through to Engine Shed at D...



Is it possible that one of your points is not conducting properly? If you test run your train, into the head shunt first, then flick the point. If there is a stage your loco does not run, check that your point is conducting OK.
Again, Hope this helps
Trevor






Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 08:02 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

hi xdford thanks for your help ,  I try a different  point and now it all works good , so it was a faulty point that cause the headache next job is to put motors on all the points :sad: cheers bob

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Nov 11th, 2014 10:59 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

hi , im going to have point motors on all my points (7)  can you tell me what sizes cdu I need ,...can I wire all 7 to 1 cdu unit  ,

cheers bob

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Nov 11th, 2014 11:33 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Bob,
Have a study of the following diagram done for Ken some three years ago nearly


It shows Kens schematic with point motors fitted. The studs (black dots) are simply for brass screws that the prod can be touched to. If you want to follow through, I can have a go at your schematic for point motors.
Hope this helps,
Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2014 09:01 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

hi xdford , I been looking around the net and I am thinking of doing the stud and probe way , not sure how to wire it up :???: but I will give it a go I think it be cheaper this way then buying new switches peco pl26 at £6 a time and I would need 7 .... so any help would be great  cheers bob ,, what do I need to get ? I have a cdu unit ,iv  got the peco motors to wire up , cheers bob

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2014 09:12 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Bob,
I included Ken's schematic as I thought you would pick up the idea involved. Essentially all you need is a couple of cheesehead screws in a control panel (easily printed with Paint by the way) and a probe which could be a long screw soldered to a length of wire.
I'll try drawing it up shortly but I have a few tasks to do this morning (It is past 8 am as I write) with a schematic and a schematic wiring diagram for twin coil point motors, It should all be there by morning unless you are a real night owl.
Cheers
Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2014 10:15 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 12th post
Bobby098
Full Member


Joined: Fri Feb 21st, 2014
Location: Paignton, United Kingdom
Posts: 228
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

lol..  no night bird mate ...and  thanks for all you help trevor... drawiings would be great :doublethumb cheers bob

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 08:35 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 13th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Bob and anyone else following this...
Realising it is later in the morning in England, sorry this is a bit late but I have had a lot on today. I was also tackling how to use a diode layout so that you only need one contact for each track. This is a diagram of how I have interpreted your layout schematic,



What I have done next is to superimpose the point motors and wiring onto the diagram. While it looks complex, it is only a case of a bit of slog work and testing each section as it goes. There is a legend in the corner. A Diode is a small electrical component that allows current to flow in one direction and block the path of electricity in the other. I will do a simplified diagram to show the nature of how the system works but not for a short while.
Here is the overall diagram













The Green wire is the common return wire and simply joins EVERY coil on one side The Red and Purple Wires are only different for clarity. Where you see coloured dots the same colour as the wire, the wires are electrically connected. Generally speaking it does not matter which side of the coil the negative wire is attached to.  The following is the same diagram minus the return wiring










More to follow... it would be good if this benefited more than just yourself
Regards

Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 10:17 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 14th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Bob,
This is the next part showing how the simplest part of the circuit works
Trevor







Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 11:03 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 15th post
Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3914
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Don't know about Bob, but I think I'm missing something Trevor.

What are all the diodes for :???:

I'm not using any on my control panel/mimic board.


Ed





____________________
Engineers just love to change things
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 11:09 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 16th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Give me time Ed and I will get to it!!!I was trying to keep the cheesehead screw effect to minimum on the panel whereas many panels need two screws including the original one I designed for Ken .  Here is Bobs version of an explanation Pt 1 ...




The principle also holds true for the bottom set and I will get around to completing the diagrams to show the circuit if necessary.  This has taken a few hours out of my day today so I hope it is helpful to others in the group. I'll take my leave and check it out tomorrow,
Cheers
Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 01:38 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 17th post
Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3914
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Gotcha, you're using one stud (cheese head screw) to set the route whereas I'm using two studs per point.

So in the junction in the top LH corner of the schematic you're using three studs and two diodes and I would just use four studs.

Swings and roundabouts.


Ed


Edit

PS I hope I'm not confusing things Bob.




____________________
Engineers just love to change things
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2014 09:24 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 18th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Bobby098 wrote: hi , im going to have point motors on all my points (7)  can you tell me what sizes cdu I need ,...can I wire all 7 to 1 cdu unit  ,

cheers bob

Hi there Bob,  Just to answer this question, the standard Peco CDU would only have to power three motors max at any time, whIch should be well within the capacity of the CDU.
Hope this helps
Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2014 10:00 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 19th post
Gary
Inactive Member


Joined: Mon May 21st, 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 3835
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Quite interesting reading Trevor. I can now see how roads can be set by using the one stud, in the way you have wired it all together. Very clever I might add ! :thumbs Must admit though, I had to study the diagrams for some time to work it all out... ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.



____________________
...as a young lad, it was big trains for little boys, now it is little trains for big boys...!

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12116&forum_id=21

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2014 10:49 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 20th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3410
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi All,  
Following Ed's input I checked and found that two diodes were not needed so I submit the following schematic minus the two diodes on the far right hand side. When doing the original mapping, I put them in as I was thinking in advance of other links and had left them in. It happens!!!!


I have left the original in the previous post for comparison, and Thanks Ed...
Regards


Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 12852     Current time is 10:23 am Page:    1  2  3  4  5  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Model Railway Layouts. > Members Personal Layouts. > new layout ..no name yet ..
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic

Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topic

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.