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jimmy styles
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hi this is the start of my layout build thread, i hope to update as i go but it will be a slow build due to two young children. 
i have started a new project, my large loft layout has taken a back seat. 
i have a old bit of wood left over from a previous base board which i decided i would build something a little different on. 
the board is 96 inches long by 14.5 inches wide.
my vision is to produce a layout and fiddle yard in this area. but i wanted to produce something a little different from the normal. i have also set myself a goal........ to either get the layout in a magazine or to exhibit the layout, gives you some idea of the quality and detail that i am going for. if i achieve this it will amaze me!!!!. 
my next decision was what should i do..... well while sitting watching the D-Day special on TV it hit me, a WWII harbour. 
so i set about planning a layout via any rail. a few tweaks and some advice has led me to this as my layout design.



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in true inpatient fashion, i purchased some airfix kits from the internet and set about building, this was so much fun and took me straight back to my childhood. 
i started off my converting some LMS boogie bolsters to shunt around on the layout. 


next up was something for the harbour, i wanted a ship and instantly started looking at battleships, these where clearly far to large. so i decided on a vosper motor torpedo boat.


this will be perfect i thought but, if i want my layout to be of exhibition standard then i need to go over the top on detail. well today i finished the motor torpedo boat.......






and finally this is captain John Styles looking out to sea, named after my grandfather who was a officer in the navy during WWII


i really should get on with building the base board as i only have the top and i need to make the frame. 

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i will just add, that while trying to think of a good name for the layout, my wife came up with 'Operation Abyss' as she said it sounded sea related. i liked it so it stuck.

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Hello Jimmy, I like the idea of the WWII harbour for the layout your starting. The Airfix models look pretty good too. I'm quite interested to see how this layout develops, so plenty of photo's on your progress please!

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Hi Jimmy,

I'm definately looking foward to this layout and the way you go about the scenery. I think my next plank will be a harbour scene, so you better 'get on with it !'

Cheers, Gary.

 

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What a great idea Jimmy - along the lines of "Rowlands Gill" I think. :roll:

The Airfix guns and tanks look much better than my offerings as a callow youth. :thumbs:thumbs

Here's a shot of an MGB I built when I was into RC boats in UK.  A bit too big for a "OO" railway ............:


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what a cracking radio controlled boat!!!

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I like that Peter,how big is it?.

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Spurno wrote: I like that Peter,how big is it?.

It's just a tad under 5ft long Alan - 1:35 scale.

My mistake was installing 4 x 540 motors with scale props.  It ran like a dream and came up on the plane beautifully - for about 5 minutes then the batteries were flat ............:cry::cry::cry:  Using bigger (heavier) batteries, spoilt the performance because it struggled to plane with the extra weight.  Modern battery and motor technology has improved so I'm toying with the idea of swapping the motors and giving it another go.

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Are you sure that's an MGB,it doesn't look like the one i had.:hmm

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What ever it is, it looks great.  :thumbs
Very tempting, what with all the problems I'm having with my Shinohara turnouts at the moment.  :mutley

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It's a Fairmile D Alan, the "Dog Boat".  The Fairmile D was classified as either an MTB or MGB although admittedly, the "MGB" designation was superceded by "MTB" 

Here's another shot of her.  The torpedo tubes normally sit alongside the cabin midships where the 3 portholes are below the machine guns. They are in fact, the "latches" holding the removable superstructure in place.  Everything between the fore and aft gun mountings lifts off to access motors/batteries and radio gear.  I had intended changing the power hungry 540 motors for something a little more sensible but never got round to doing anything.  The poor girl has sat in the attic untouched, for the last 15 years - and it shows !!!!






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MaxSouthOz wrote: What ever it is, it looks great.  :thumbs
Very tempting, what with all the problems I'm having with my Shinohara turnouts at the moment.  :mutley

I thought you were sleeping on those Max .....................:lol::roll:

Reading about all the problems you've had with them, I'm amazed they're still in business.  How bad does one need to be before customers  say "enough is enough" .............? :???:

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Well i've learnt something Peter,i never knew there were designations other than MTB.I'd love to see her on the move.

jimmy styles
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ok i have been playing around further with Any Rail. i decided that i would add a further siding this one is a lot shorter than the others as it will have a ramp at the end of it where it would be possible to drive tanks etc onto wagons. this is the plan.....

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Had you thought of using a sector plate as the fiddle yard Jimmy ?  That way, you'd do away with the points so you could have longer roads, closer together, thus more storage.

jimmy styles
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Petermac wrote:
Had you thought of using a sector plate as the fiddle yard Jimmy ?  That way, you'd do away with the points so you could have longer roads, closer together, thus more storage.



I thought about one but it's a bit of the unknown.

I don't really know anything about sector plates or how they work.

Jimmy

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They're not particularly difficult Jimmy and do offer lots of advantages over points in your situation.

If you do think of installing one, there'd be loads of guidance for you on here. :cheers

jimmy styles
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Petermac wrote:
They're not particularly difficult Jimmy and do offer lots of advantages over points in your situation.

If you do think of installing one, there'd be loads of guidance for you on here. :cheers


I may have to see if I can do some research before I order all the points and start laying track.

I want reliable running as aim to exhibit this. However I am always concerned by joints in track as I have never managed to get locks over the joints regularly.

When I go to the next show I think I will tAlk to other modellers and look at their layouts. I have found a local club near me so may pop there as well.

Jimmy

jimmy styles
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with the plan decided and the baseboard wood purchased (not yet started building the frame, children slowing my progress.) 
i decided to print my plan full size so i could get a idea of size, scale and if the plan will work. 
so here are some photos. it gives a good idea of size





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Hi Jimmy,

In regards to a sector plate, I made a very simple version from 3mm MDF board and a nut & bolt (fixed swivel point).

Here is a short video of it in action. Please ignore my boys video/music in the background...




Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Fri Jul 4th, 2014 12:55 pm by Gary

jimmy styles
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Gary that is cracking and appears so very simple. I really like the way in which you align the middle line.

That would allow me to have longer sidings possibly four and not three and would save me about 20quid in points.

I am still a little worried with the joins,

Jimmy

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Hi Jimmy,

I wouldn't worry too much regarding the joins. The gap between the sector plate and the 'in road' is approximately 1mm. As long as each storage road on the sector plate is wired accordingly, no problems should arise. Basically the joins between the plate and the 'in road' is identical to joining two baseboards together. The three storage roads (1,2,3) have been glued down, rather than pinned/nailed. You can see in the pic below, there is a slight arc on the sector plate and on the 'in road'.




I have wired each individual road/siding to a 6 position rotary switch, with a stop in between each road. This way, if there is ever a case of a possible runaway, I only need to turn the switch to the right one position. The switch is wired as road 1, stop, road 2, stop, road 3, stop, running clockwise.

Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Fri Jul 4th, 2014 01:36 pm by Gary

jimmy styles
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with base board construction slow (not moving) i decided that i would do some weathering to the rolling stock. i have completed one of the flat wagons and i'm quite happy with what i have achieved. 


i also decided that the long siding that runs in front of the fiddle yard, will have a disused carriage at the far end in a state of disrepair, so i have set about producing this disused carriage. 


so what do you think??

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Regarding the coach Jimmy, I think you've done a good job at dereliction.  My comment is that it is a Period III, entering service in 1932, so would be far too new in 1944 to reach that level of decreptitude (unless bomb damaged).  A pre grouping coach would be a better choice, Ratio do some Midland and LNWR kits.

John

jimmy styles
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Good point, I didn't think about that when I was attacking the coach. I may see if I can pick up a old pre grouping coach from eBay or a toy fair.

jimmy styles
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Things have been a little slow, the weather has been lovely and I have been busy with my other hobby, yes I am cheating on model railways with radio controlled aircraft.



Anyway I have been doing a little on the layout. I purchased an airfix willys jeep, one of the new mouldings from airfix and wow what an improvement keep it up airfix!!











Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2014 01:39 pm by jimmy styles

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I decided that i really must pull my finger out, i am not the best at wood work, however i jumped in and completed the base board.

i have started to paint it with wood varnish as to protect it from damp etc, i still have a lot more painting to do.

i placed the boat in the lowered section for the harbour and placed some track on the board to give you an idea of size etc.


Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2014 01:42 pm by jimmy styles

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i have put together a shopping list of points (Peco Streamline), so that is the next purchase, need to make a decision of point motors. any ideas

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This layout looks interesting Jimmy and I like what you have done with the bogie bolsters. One thing though, the one with two tanks on, that would be grossly overweight. One yes, two very doubtful, even in wartime conditions. As to point motors it depends a lot on how you intend operating them. Have you thought about wire in a tube. It's very easy and also very cheap. As for the coach, a smashing job. You can pick up one of the old Triang/Hornby short GWR clerestory coaches on fleabay for a couple of quid. That would make a nice one, you could always paint it in LMS red or even black as ex departmental stock if you didn't want chocolate & cream.

Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2014 06:42 pm by 60019Bittern

jimmy styles
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60019Bittern wrote:
This layout looks interesting Jimmy and I like what you have done with the bogie bolsters. One thing though, the one with two tanks on, that would be grossly overweight. One yes, two very doubtful, even in wartime conditions. As to point motors it depends a lot on how you intend operating them. Have you thought about wire in a tube. It's very easy and also very cheap. As for the coach, a smashing job. You can pick up one of the old Triang/Hornby short GWR clerestory coaches on fleabay for a couple of quid. That would make a nice one, you could always paint it in LMS red or even black as ex departmental stock if you didn't want chocolate & cream.


Thank you for the kind words, I'm aware that the bolster wagon would be massively over weight I will be very soon changing it.

Also I have discovered that the coach is possibly a little to new to be in that level of disrepair near the end of the war but that may have to remain.

I am considering the old method of wire In a tube but don't really know how to go about doing it.

I'm learning as I go.

Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2014 07:16 pm by jimmy styles

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Have a look at my layout
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10595&forum_id=21&highlight=Trevennan
there are a few mentions on there for wire in the tube method of point operation.

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Deffo go with the sector plate, in that space with a SP as opposed to a turnout fiddle you'd gain almost another foot not to mention a possible concealed kick back in/behind you factory.

Any questions, go ahead, there is plenty of egg-spurt-ease here!

Poop poop,

Doug

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dooferdog wrote:
Deffo go with the sector plate, in that space with a SP as opposed to a turnout fiddle you'd gain almost another foot not to mention a possible concealed kick back in/behind you factory.

Any questions, go ahead, there is plenty of egg-spurt-ease here!

Poop poop,

Doug


I am really considering a sector plate however, I am concerned how I would do it on a flat top board as would be higher than the rest of the track, and really concerned with the joints and possible detailing.

But would really like the extra siding length in the fiddle yard as can it extend it to four lines.

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jimmy styles wrote: dooferdog wrote:
Deffo go with the sector plate, in that space with a SP as opposed to a turnout fiddle you'd gain almost another foot not to mention a possible concealed kick back in/behind you factory.

Any questions, go ahead, there is plenty of egg-spurt-ease here!

Poop poop,

Doug


I am really considering a sector plate however, I am concerned how I would do it on a flat top board as would be higher than the rest of the track, and really concerned with the joints and possible detailing.

But would really like the extra siding length in the fiddle yard as can it extend it to four lines.

Work out sizes etc, then cut out a piece from your main board that will comfortably enclose the swinging bit. Stick a piece of ply across the whole underside and cut out your swinging piece from the piece of original board. Put a bolt through for a pivot, ensure the mating surfaces are smooth (add a little talc). That way it is bound to be the same thickness as the rest of the board.
Indexing can be by eye for such a small plate, but I have a 4ft plate with indexing using a ball catch and a perspex strip if that appeals. I will find some pics for you. You can have parallel tracks, too, to ease the clearance/loading gauge problems.
Doug


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Thanks Doug if you can find some pics that will help.

i have decided that i will go down the route of a sector plate however its how i go about it.

i am currently thinking about different ways in which this can be achieved and luckily there is a large article in the the new Hornby design manual.

after a long and boring night shift searching the internet i found the below picture.

 i think that this is the sort of thing i think i may attempt but on a slightly more simple idea.

what do you guys think??



Last edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2014 06:59 am by jimmy styles

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Hi Jimmy,

The method you have posted may not fit in the hidden storage area behind the backscene. You would need to allow enough space for the movement of the sliding sector plate back and forth, within the confines of space you have.

This below could fit into your space...



The sector plate is cut out of your existing baseboard with a suitable arc on either end. Do this by locating the centre of the sector plate, tap in a nail and use a pencil tied to string to trace an arc onto the baseboard. Draw the parallel lines lengthway and cut out. The pivot is fixed to a cross brace/frame underneath. Narrow the sector plate width down so that it can swivel left to right. The sector plate can ove across other frames that support the baseboard, keeping everything at the correct height. After the first track is laid on the sector plate, you will need to adjust the next two or three tracks with a slight bend at the end where they meet the in road, for correct alignment. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Gary.


jimmy styles
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Gary that is really helpful,

I'm going to have a little fiddle on Friday when I finish work.

I'm thinking of measuring the length that I need so possibly shorten the fiddle yard.

Also I'm considering moving the entrance road to the fiddle yard to allow my sector plate ease of movement

Jim

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ok so i could not resist having a fiddle, this is what i'm thinking........ if i move the entrance road to the position it is on the photo below. i think it then gives me room for my sector plate. i can also shorten the sector plate which gives me a bigger scenic section. (win win)

so the decisions now are as follows......... do i do a sector plate that slides back and forth or a sector plate that pivots.

if i do one that pivots does it pivot at one end or in the middle.

next decision is once i have decided which way my sector plate is going to work, do i cut the top of the board and fit it into the board of mount it on a piece of 3mm mdf on top of the current board??

help please

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If you cut it from the board, it can slide on a ply base/bearers nailed to the underside and it will always be the right thickness.

If you stick it on top you will need to slope your track from
it to yor main board or run all your track raised 3mm.

Centre/end pivot? Just try with some cardboard box material until you find what is best for your layout...go to a supermarket, scrounge some boxes, do a mock up, half size if you like using nails for pivots, sticky tape etc until it feels right,

Good luck,

Doug

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Hi Jimmy,





You will have to move the track on the scenic section to the bottom of the board in order to line up with the bottom line on the sector plate. This will allow you to use all the tracks on the sector plate. If you leave it as you have it now you can't line up the bottom line of the sector plate to the 'in-road'. I learnt this from experience :roll:



Simon










Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2014 03:15 am by

Chubber
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PS A sliding sector plate is called a 'traverser' if you need to Google some more,

D

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Ok so after working a set of night shifts where all i could think about was my layout and how to do the fiddle yard / sector plate / traverser....

after taking advice from the internet / magazines / Gary & Doug (dooferdog) i decided to go for a sector plate.

i spent most of the afternoon today after not a lot of sleep playing with cardboard cutouts. i have decided that with a sector plate i can shorten the fiddle yard increasing the scenic area.

i can just about fit in a end pivot sector plate so after spending hours with cardboard, string and pencils i decided what the hell, and this is what happened....... no going back now.........





if this does not work then i may hold Gary and Doug (dooferdog) responsible  :doublethumb

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Doug and I better cross our fingers, in the hope that it all works for you...! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Gary wrote:
Doug and I better cross our fingers, in the hope that it all works for you...! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.


I'm sure it will and I'm sure once it's done, I will look at it and say "thats a bloody good idea"

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I'm just doing some catching up Jimmy and I've got to here .......................

Love the Airfix jeep - great looking model, as is the rotten carriage.  As Mick said, 2 tanks on a bolster is 1 tank too many ............:roll::roll:  They're heavy beasties. ;-)

I'm glad you opted for the sector plate rather than a traverser.  Traversers can be a PITA to get them to work without any binding.  Sector plates are a piece of cake in comparison.

Looking at your baseboard, unless you add another cross beam, you don't have any option other than an end pivot.  To my mind, the only advantage of a centre pivot would be if you wanted to swing the thing through 180 deg. so it could be a "Ro-Ro" (roll on- roll off) configuration.

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Petermac wrote:
I'm just doing some catching up Jimmy and I've got to here .......................

Love the Airfix jeep - great looking model, as is the rotten carriage.  As Mick said, 2 tanks on a bolster is 1 tank too many ............:roll::roll:  They're heavy beasties. ;-)

I'm glad you opted for the sector plate rather than a traverser.  Traversers can be a PITA to get them to work without any binding.  Sector plates are a piece of cake in comparison.

Looking at your baseboard, unless you add another cross beam, you don't have any option other than an end pivot.  To my mind, the only advantage of a centre pivot would be if you wanted to swing the thing through 180 deg. so it could be a "Ro-Ro" (roll on- roll off) configuration.


I was considering keeping the tanks as they were but I have decided that I would never be happy with them so I have a couple of well wagons to convert so will put one tank on each which I'm sure will look much better, (however it will be a lot of work)

With regards to the sector plate, I still have a lot of bracing to put on I have a bit to go across the front and another to go at the back. I don't ever want to swing the sector plate 180 which is why I decided on end pivot.

My next purchase will be some copper clad PCB so I can play with some track.

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Good luck on it. Track making can be a bit fiddly.

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60019Bittern wrote:
Good luck on it. Track making can be a bit fiddly.

I'm not that brave yet, although I do fancy building my own track.

What I require is pcb board to solder the track to at the joints of the sector plate.

Little steps

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i have also made a start at changing one of my boogie bolsters, the one with two tanks on it, i have come to the conclusion that in real life it would be well over weight and if i plan to exhibit the layout (my aim) its gotta be right!!

so purchased was two old bachmann LMS well wagons, load taken off and put into the box of spares for later if required.
the wheels are plastic and very crude so these will require changing.

also with the load gone i found them to be very light so using weights designed for wheels i have added some weight.

i will build a false floor and place one tank of each........ watch this space..........




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Hi Jim

I love your modelling skills. The torpedo boat is a gem, as are the weathered bolsters, guns and the jeep. I feel a bit of a rivet counter, but if you are going to go for one tank on the bloster wagon, I would opt for either a Sherman, Churchill or a Cromwell from the Airfix range. These would fit the D-Day period of mid 1944. The Matilda Mark II was obsolete by 1943 and taken out of front line service. Whilst it was a tough little tank, it was too slow and the turret could only cope with a 2pdr gun. By this time most tanks in operational service had at least 75mm guns. Otherwise a great project, with some stunning modelling.

Bob

 

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Novice wrote:
Hi Jim

I love your modelling skills. The torpedo boat is a gem, as are the weathered bolsters, guns and the jeep. I feel a bit of a rivet counter, but if you are going to go for one tank on the bloster wagon, I would opt for either a Sherman, Churchill or a Cromwell from the Airfix range. These would fit the D-Day period of mid 1944. The Matilda Mark II was obsolete by 1943 and taken out of front line service. Whilst it was a tough little tank, it was too slow and the turret could only cope with a 2pdr gun. By this time most tanks in operational service had at least 75mm guns. Otherwise a great project, with some stunning modelling.

Bob

 


Thank you for the kind comments, I am learning as I go along with this build and it's quite a bit of trial and error.

I can't put a Churchill on the well wagon as its to wide so I will have a load of churchills sitting in the docks. I think I will have to stick with a little bit of modellers license when it comes to the use of the Matilda's

I have built something new which I will post on this thread tomorrow

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so when i first came up with the idea of this layout i knew that with regards to the rolling stock i had to have some variety o keep interest as i do intend to exhibit the layout (if it is ever that good.) this also stretched to the LOCO's i decided that these needed to be something a little different and special. i think i need aout four or five LOCO's and that they need to run very well and very slow. and of course be DCC.

so off to the wonderful of the internet, i quickly discovered that during the war needs must which resulting in all manor of road vehicles being used for use on the rails in the most crude ways.

unfortunately the willy jeep is just small but looks amazing on rails.

i stumbled across the American GMC 6x6 truck. i found that these where used widely and more of interest to me for shunting and that they where very capable shunters being able to shunt four or five small wagons or one or two large wagons. (perfect the seed was sown.)

a bit more research and i found that most where constructed on old wagon chassis or reinforced girders  with a lot of ballast added to the rear to aid traction. as there seemed to be no rule and no two looked the same this meant that i can build something that looks good and works instead of a perfect replica. 

  hopefullyyou will agree what i have built looks as if it was was there working hard in the docks.

so i started off buying a old airfix GMC truck kit. i then found a couple of old ratio truck kits that i had built a long time ago.

i stripped the wagons to the chassis and merged two into one.

but what to use for traction, well this comes from a simple motor bogie which was converted for DCC use.





i quickly found that running as is the front wheels derailed on all bends and points. at this point i almost scrapped the project. but then decided to add a centre mounting point to the motor bogie seen in the picture which allowed the motor bogie to pivot in the chassis without it being visible,

next test run and perfect. i was happy again.

however quickly discovered that if i wanted to run at slow speeds or even shunt then this needed to have some weight. now it is finished if it was a boxer it would be in the heavy weight class. (she is very heavy).



in the back you can see the DCC decoder and some of the weight. more lead was added to the chassis so that the entire chassis from front to back is also lined with lead.







i only added a coupling to the front as that is the only end i will couple up to. the front wheel set is still the set i used for mock up i current have a 10.5mm disc wheel on back order which will look much better.

so what do you think??

the below video is final testing under load on my dads layout.


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That does look good and it will be an excellent talking point during an exhibition. Thumbs up from me ! :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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That's an excellent project Jimmy - imaginitive and a great talking point. :cheers

As it's such a good idea, a couple of suggestions if I may ...............:hmm

1.  Get rid of those dreadful TL couplings.  To me, they're the pits on exhibition layouts.  Either go for Kadees to allow for complete "hands free" operation or miniature 3 link couplings.

2.  Have a play with the CV's on the decoder.  I'm not sure if you intended to show any slow running or just the power of the beast, but with DCC, you should be able to go and cook a meal whilst it covers 6 inches of track.  To me, that was way too fast.

Just my observations but, given that the models themselves are so good, it would seem a pity to detract from them by less than perfect operations. :thumbs


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I'm still learning when it comes to dcc and decoders I have had a little play with the cv's I have shushed the starting voltage the mid and the max just need to get play with the throttle curve. It will run so slow I will do another video on a bit of clean track to show you.

I am considering different couplings. The one on the front I don't like and was a sort of temp measure to see if it would pull the wagons.

I will look into different couplings but I'm still learning, it's like the sector plate I'm not sure what im doing but will give it a go.

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Hi Jimmy,

That GMC truck looks amazing, great modelling.

If you want to see some really wacky contraptions visit this page and also some other pages on it:- http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=6797&highlight=farm

Simon

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All the photos are blacked out .........................:cry::cry::cry::cry:

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Hi Peter,

looks to be only the ones at the beginning of the thread are missing. One pic of a prototype is showing on page 1 for me even when I log out and view as a guest. The pictures seem to start to show by page 5 (some on bottom of page 4 as well)

http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=6797&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=sister+farm&start=100

Simon

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So they do Simon - I didn't go far enough ............:oops:

On a technical point - I note the Fordson Major has the rail drive connected to one half shaft only.  I don't think that would actually work on that particular tractor.  They were not fitted with a differential lock and therefore, putting a load on one half shaft (which would equate with locking up one wheel), would make the other shaft spin at twice the speed leaving the loaded shaft stationary.  I looked carefully but couldn't see any evidence of a means of locking up the free shaft.  Try it in your car.  Get one wheel stuck in mud and the other spins at double the speed via the diff. gearing.  That's how they work otherwise you wouldn't be able to turn corners without wrecking the drive train. ;-)

jimmy styles
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Wow that link gives me lots of ideas ha ha.

Now the question is what to build as the next shunter for the layout.
I was thinking like a small industrial petrol shunter painted in war colours?

What do you think any suggestions??

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ok so back to the sector plate and some advice require please.

i have added some cross braces one in the center then one at one end to mount the pivot to and one at the front to keep the sector plate and the main board at the same height.

however the advice i require is...... what do i use as a pivot?? i was thinking a large bolt with some washers but i'm worried that the thread on the bolt would chew up the MDF sector plate.

any ideas.

below is a picture of my progress with a little help from my son.


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Hi Jimmy,












If you use a bolt with a short length that is unthreaded at the top then it will not chew up the MDF. One point to note is that you may want to put a small piece of MDF attached to the sector plate and going under the baseboard to keep it in place vertically. We had problems with an MDF sector plate bowing length ways and lifting so had to install this item.












See diagram













































Attachment: MMST Sector plate 001.jpg (Downloaded 9 times)

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Hi Jimmy,

You can allways use a piece of styrene tube to act as a collar for the bolt. This would need to be glued to the pre-drilled hole with araldite, no nails or similar. Or if the sector plate is ample thickness, one of these...




Cheers, Gary.

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Just for information.

Bolts have a small section of unthreaded below the head, the ones that are fully threaded are actually Set Screws.

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ok so back to the sector plate,

i had to make a decision on how to pivot it without the thread of a bolt chewing up the wood.
now i could use a bolt with only half thread but i didn't like that idea. i decided that i would use a metal sleeve.

so how to do this. i could go and buy some brass tube but that would be boring.
i have some brass knocking about and the bolt that i wanted to use. this means that i can break out the metal laithe.

so two sleeves where made one the exact thickness of the MDF and the other the exact thickness of the wood.

i next drilled the holes in the wood a little undersize and hammered the brass into the wood for a really snug fit.

the both fits the sleeve snugly so that there is no movement apart from the rotation.

i have also screwed a support to the bottom of the MDF to stop it warping in the future.

all in all i'm quite happy, next paint the wood then to start track laying.






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Nice one Jimmy,They do look like tricky jobs to make and get working.
Regards,
Derek.

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Well as this is the first sector plate I have ever made I'm quite happy with how it's going!! Time will tell when I put track across it.

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Hi Jimmy,
Easiest way to lay the track onto and across the sector plate is to push the sector plate as far down (in orientation to your picture) as it will go. Then lay the first track as close to the top of the sector plate as you want to. Next lay the track on the layout baseboard to line up with this track. Measure the clearance you want to the next track on the sector plate (remember to allow for any overhang on the curve) and lay the track making sure it lines up (no kinks) with the baseboard track. Then repeat for all the sector plate tracks.
Simon

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Thank you I will give it a go in the next few days.

I have order a sheet of PCB board to solder the tracks to on the edges.

Question is.... Are there any tricks to stop melting the next row of sleepers??

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Hi Jimmy,

This is a fantastic thread. A good blow by blow account. I'm looking forward to seeing the track go down and the whole thing swivel and lining up.

Keep up the good work.

Toto

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toto wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

This is a fantastic thread. A good blow by blow account. I'm looking forward to seeing the track go down and the whole thing swivel and lining up.

Keep up the good work.

Toto


The question will be if the track lines up!!

That is my job for next week

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Hi Jimmy,

I have every confidence. I think there was some pretty good advise on how to line up the track introducing slight bends where necessary a couple of posts back. I would go with that. I do however understand the uncertainty as it is a new venture for you.

I'm sure we are all willing you on here as you have done so well this far. I can't wait to see the track going down and that dock area is going to be fantastic.

Fear not and go for it my man and keep the pictures coming. It's a great post and read.

Cheers

Toto

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A neat swivel pin Jimmy. :thumbs

Question - what's the reason for the odd shaped bottom edge on the sector plate ?

Regarding melting the sleepers as you solder - just either remove 2 or 3 of them altogether - the PCB replacement will hold the track steady enough over a 2 or 3 sleeper gap.  When your solder is cool, for "cosmetic" reasons only (if required), cut off the chairs on the removed sleepers and slide the "timber" bit back into position under the rails and stick them to the baseboard with a dab of superglue.

As an alternative, as the other end of the track is free, you can slide all the sleepers back half an inch or so - some of them will come off the far end of the rails - do your soldering then slide them all back into place, slipping the rails back into the chairs of any that came off the other end.

Removing 1 sleeper after the PCB one should be all that's required to avoid melting.  Be swift with a very hot iron - the rail is more difficult to solder to than the PCB.  You could, if you are really worried, use a heat sink.  Any heat conductive clip or clamp attached to the rail just behind your solder point will stop most of the heat travelling along the rail to the plastic sleepers.

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Question - what's the reason for the odd shaped bottom edge on the sector plate ?



That's a easy one, my original sector plate track plan was going to have the sector plate follow the curve of the track, but then I thought "there is no point so what the hell am I doing!!"

Then I changed the track plan a little.

Thank you for the advice on soldering I will keep you updated on my progress good or bad!!

Last edited on Fri Oct 24th, 2014 06:29 am by jimmy styles

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Great work Jimmy ! :thumbs

It looks very well made and very sturdy. I wired my sector plate to a rotary switch so that I can power up any of the individual tracks when needed. The power suppyl for this runs off the in-road to the rotary switch and then off to the individual sidings.

Rotary switch : http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/107154-switch-3pole-4-pos-metric-ck1031-lorlin.html

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

Cheers, Gary.

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ok so copper clad PCB board check......... arrived on saturday morning.
soldering iron check.....
solder check........
flux check.......
baseboard painted and sealed check.....
flexi track check.........
mini hand drill check........
track pins and pva check........

however wife and children at home and we got a christening to go to. (id better be there im the godfather.)

however monday and tuesday i am off work, wife is at work and children are at pre school.

watch this space.............




Last edited on Sun Oct 26th, 2014 08:31 am by jimmy styles

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Depending on what flux you're using Jimmy, don't forget to wash the soldered joint thoroughly to avoid any future corrosion. :thumbs (Don't ask how I know you should do that ................:oops::oops:)

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Hi Jimmy

Great thread..

As you are using pcb, you could solder brass tubes either side of the jion, and use either copper or brass rod as a bolt, but will also provide the current over the lines. However if you are using DCC then the just provide alignment as the tracks just need to be made always live.

Paul

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I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.

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Petermac wrote:
Depending on what flux you're using Jimmy, don't forget to wash the soldered joint thoroughly to avoid any future corrosion. :thumbs (Don't ask how I know you should do that ................:oops::oops:)


Ok now I'm worried, how do I wash the joint and what with?? Do I wash the joint before I solder or after??

Last edited on Sun Oct 26th, 2014 05:14 pm by jimmy styles

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Hi

With DCC you are better to keep the loco's powered all the time, so to avoid shorts, have the bolts isolated, or even use a plastic / nylon pins as bolts.

For cleaning flux off the rails and PCB, acetone will work fine - keep it clear of the plastic tho'. Cheap source of acetone - nail varnish remover, but avoid the ones with skin care - normally the cheaper the better ;-). Use a cotton swap or make up removal pads, the brave will pinch the bosses stash, the meek will put up with the looks from other women when going through the make up section of Tesco's buying nail varnish remover, cotton balls, eye shadow applicators and make up foam pads. Word of warning, they lock up the make up section at night, so it has to be done during normal hours:brickwall.

Paul

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paul_l wrote:  Word of warning, they lock up the make up section at night, so it has to be done during normal hours:brickwall.

Paul


Do the folk of Dundee have a problem with cross dressers ??  :mutley:mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Discovered the wife's nail varnish remover!!!! It's cheap and perfect she will never know.........

I photographed where it lives so that I can put it and and the cotton buds back exactly where they should be. (the perfect crime)

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so there is no stopping me now!!!!

first track down, first PCB soldered to the rails. just waiting for the glue to dry then i will be able to test.

the soldering is not pretty but it seems to work, (im still learning, this soldering lark is still new to me.)


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The secret with the soldering lark is cleanliness of the materials to be soldered and don't let the iron dwell too long. By the way, if you haven't already done so then don't forget to put an insulating gap on the pcb sleepers otherwise it will all short out.

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Hi Gary

Its more the look from SWMBO, when she goes for make up and I know where all the stuff is :mutley, try explaining that one away.

About time they made a rust brown, soot grey and brake dust coluored power puffs - Ive looked and there not close enough, the brushes are goog tho' ;-).

Jimmy, looks clean from here

Paul

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jimmy styles wrote: I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.
Hopefully, not to help with power flow Jimmy ...........:shock::shock::shock::shock:

Not only ought you to ensure every piece of track is fed from the bus via a dropper, but any possibility of arcing via the sliding power connection from the rod/tube would probably play havoc with the decoders .................:roll::roll::roll::roll:

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Petermac wrote:
jimmy styles wrote: I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.
Hopefully, not to help with power flow Jimmy ...........:shock::shock::shock::shock:

Not only ought you to ensure every piece of track is fed from the bus via a dropper, but any possibility of arcing via the sliding power connection from the rod/tube would probably play havoc with the decoders .................:roll::roll::roll::roll:


I have a break in the sleepers to insulate. I am also going to feed all the track from droppers. Would it be a issue to have brass tubes for alignment?? I thought. Long as they are on each rail then they would be ok and would be another means of passing electricity to the sector plate.

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No problem if they're "as well as" Jimmy but try to make them a snug fit.  It's not a question of short circuits, more that any faulty or suspect electrical connection will create arcing (although you won't see it at 15VAC) and this would be likely to interfere with the delicate decoder settings.

As was said earlier, gapping the PCB between the rails in essential otherwise it's like connecting both rails together - not a wise thing to do ...........:mutley:mutley

jimmy styles
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so sector plate update....... well its been a long few days with some issues.

i started off with cutting the PCB board to size, this went very easy, so far so good i was thinking.

next was to tin the rails and solder the rail to the PCB. again this went with ease. i then remembered what i had been told on the forum was to clean the joint with nail varnish remover, the hardest bit of this was sneeking SWMBO'd nail varnish remover into the garage, where it still is after 4 days oops.

i measured and lined up the rails on the sector plate and trimmed them to size. it was now getting quite late and being tired and impatient i decided to lay the tracks, pinned and glued in place. i wanted to do this quickly so the glue had all night to dry. well this was my first mistake.

so at eleven PM i was out in the garage, i lined the tracks up pinned them and glued in place and went to bed happy with what i had achieved. oh how wrong could i be.

the next day SWMBO'd was out so i carried my layout into the dinning room pleased with what i had achieved it looked good and i was happy. i sat with a cup of tea looking at my master piece thinking to myself "well that was easy."

i then came to move the sector plate and guess what........... all the rails hit as i had not allowed a big enough gap for expansion.

so out came the metal file and about 1mm was trimmed off the end of each rail woo hoo this worked.

my next task was to work out a way of alignment. i went to see a friend who owns a model shop in the next town. we had a look through his stock and found some suitable brass tube and then tucked away we found a sprung canopy release for model airplanes which looked perfect.

i soldered the canopy release to the in road and the brass tube to each of the sector plates and hay presto alignment is perfect each and every time.

my soldering is not pretty but it works. and when finished wont be visible to the viewer just the operator.





i then wanted to make a quick video to show you, however please ignore Thomas on a WWII themed layout and the speed i am running the locos it was just to show you the sector plate in operation.




paul_l
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Nice one :pathead

As you intend to take it to exhibitions I assume you will be operating from the back of the layout, it may be worth putting a handle or door knob on the sector plate, looks like you have enough room beside thr rear track.
Dont forget to allow enough room for your hand to release the pins when you install your buildings.... dont ask, the boys in blue have a strange attitude, when you go round schools offering kids sweet to come and play with your trains ! :lol:

Paul

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paul_l wrote:
Nice one :pathead

As you intend to take it to exhibitions I assume you will be operating from the back of the layout, it may be worth putting a handle or door knob on the sector plate, looks like you have enough room beside thr rear track.
Dont forget to allow enough room for your hand to release the pins when you install your buildings.... dont ask, the boys in blue have a strange attitude, when you go round schools offering kids sweet to come and play with your trains ! :lol:

Paul


Yeah operation will be from the rear of the layout. I was going to screw a old bit of wood to use as a handle but I like the door knob idea.

I have planned the buildings leaving enough room to slide the release pins. It needs a really good track clean

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Hi Jimmy,

Well done with the sector plate. It looks like a very sturdy installation and beautifully smooth.

Crack on

Toto

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toto wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

Well done with the sector plate. It looks like a very sturdy installation and beautifully smooth.

Crack on

Toto


Thank you, it moves lovely from side to side thanks to my home made bearing, I'm also really pleased with the sprung clips. I will need to really clean the track as nothing is running that great and you can clearly see that the rails are dirty. But all in all I'm really quite pleased for a first ever sector plate

Gary
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Great work Jimmy. :thumbs

Not only did it increase the fiddle yard space compared to using a Peco 3-way point. Overall it is probably cheaper than the Peco 3-way point as well !

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Gary wrote:
Great work Jimmy. :thumbs

Not only did it increase the fiddle yard space compared to using a Peco 3-way point. Overall it is probably cheaper than the Peco 3-way point as well !

Cheers, Gary.

 


And it's there because you Gary convinced me it was a good idea, It was definitely cheaper than a three was point and saves me loads of room so slightly longer storage and slight bigger scenic section....... Win win

jimmy styles
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So my next task should really be to build some sturdy removable legs for the layout.

Any ideas how??

Gary
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My suggestion would be to build a pair of collapsable trestle legs.

Similar to this...


Ofcourse you would have to determine the height and width and also where they are best positioned under the baseboard.

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi

I tend to use Vertical legs, with 8mm coach bolts screwed into tee nuts, at the bottom of each leg. This provides height adjustment.
You will get the same effect with Gary's legs, if you replace the metal strap with a cord that can be tied off at the correct height. You never know how level an exhibition floor is. One hall we were at, was used for concerts, and had removable seats, althopugh it looked level, a ball would run easily downhill without any assistance. Some longer layouts struggled to get their layouts level, causing chaos in the fiddle yards.

Paul

Last edited on Sat Nov 15th, 2014 08:37 pm by paul_l

jimmy styles
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so this weekend i attended the spalding model railway show, as always what a fantastic turn out.

i spent a lot of time looking at layout legs trying to get an idea of what to do and what height i thought was best for my layout for the viewer.

however i have puchased a set of kadee couplings to have a play with and after seeing these in action at the show it is the way forward for me.

Gary
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Hi Jimmy,

You know once you have had a play with Kadees, you'll wonder why tension lock couplers are used so much... ;-) I have converted 70% of my locos and rollinstock to Kadees already, not cheap, but the easy uncoupling is a bonus. Did you also purchase an 'undertrack' magnet (item no.308) or 'between the rails' uncoupling ramp (item no.321), so you can uncouple ?

If not, I would recommend reading this :

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6&page=1 

The use of neodymium magnets as uncouplers is excellent. I have adopted this on Linden Ford and will be doing the same on Kelly Bray.

Other useful links : 

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HOplc.htm Click on Couplers  

http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf

http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/other/mti_article.php  

Cheers, Gary.

 

Last edited on Sun Nov 16th, 2014 11:02 am by Gary

Sol
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Plus this about Kadees as well
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8591&forum_id=156

jimmy styles
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Thank you for all the links I have today order a range of different rare earth magnets from eBay. I'm going to have a play and see which ones suit myself the most.

However they are coming from china so a while until they will arrive.

In the mean time, I have Warley show to go to on Sunday, hoping to pick up some little bits wheels and more importantly more kadee's and a kadee height gauge.

shunter1
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Its all coming along nicely Jimmy,
I am thinking Kadee,s for the future and look forward to how you get on with them.
Best of luck,
Derek.

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shunter1 wrote:
Its all coming along nicely Jimmy,
I am thinking Kadee,s for the future and look forward to how you get on with them.
Best of luck,
Derek.


Thank you, I will post photos of how I get on with them

jimmy styles
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ok here is a little update, after buying some different sized kadee's i have managed to fit them to the front of my GMC truck/shunter already looks better than before.



but i also needed to go out to the garage and think about some legs for the layout.
i decided on the route i wanted to take.

i decided on the height i wanted the layout for the best viewing and it sits just about my waist height which i think is perfect.



ignore the mess in my garage there is a lot going on.



for adjustment all you need to do is loosen or tighten the screw, its secure and accurate.


jimmy styles
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we recently changed the knobs on all the kitchen cupboards to stupidly expensive ones (wifes choice) however i may have ordered one to many, so i had to use it, and the sector plate was perfect.


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Thats great progress Jimmy,
A good baseboard height is a must for access and visuals.
I am impressed with your Kadee coupling fitting.It does seem the way to go for auto coupling.
That traverser is the business and saves so much space and turnout costs.
Cheers,
Derek.

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Coming along nicely Jimmy.

Not a bad operating height and when it comes to detailing the layout, you can sit comfortably on a chair. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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so i have been thinking about rolling stock for this layout (which is more like everyday), after attending some shows i have come to the conclusion to keep interest i need a few different locos to keep things changing and moving.

i wanted a little steam shunter. this layout will never be 100% accurate and is not based on what actually happened, its a model its more what could have been. i want to build something that pleases. i want to produce something that looks as if it could of happened.

so what could i use for a shunter?? well i happened to be at my dads house looking at his layout and what he had achieved and i found my first ever train,

it was a hornby smokey jo that at somepoint i repainted to british railways. this train is brought for me by my nan when i was seven so is really get on in its life so its about 14 or so years old. i never threw this away as i was kinda attached to it (being my first ever train to run on my dads layout as a child.)



i put it on a test track and it run, even with dirty wheels joe chugged along happily. the seed was set this was to be my new project.

i quickly discovered that there was buckled wheels and damage to the cab roof. this was a toy train when i was young and was dropped knocked and run constantly. also about an inch of dust and dirt.

the strip was started and all components cleaned and prepared.



after the primer was added this highlighted the level of damage, a chunk missing in the side of the boiler and damage to the cab roof.

so these where fixed with model filler, i didnt want it to be perfect as no loco is perfect but it needed to be a lot better,

i discovered that the silver wheels where beyond repair so new wheels and valve gear purchased in black.

next on to paint, i opted for a mix of black and green.

i decided to add meth fix transfers for two reasons 1. they look better than anything else. 2. i had some old ones knocking about. luckly these had various letters and numbers.

i opted for number 2118 as i am a police officer and that is my collar number that is the only reason.

i then decided that as the cab is open and the detail is quite good i would spend some time picking out various pipes and gauges.

i next moved onto a crew and these came from the white metal figures of aiden campbell.

the kadee coupling conversion was a little harder i actually had to cut a slot in the chassis and insert the coupling box into the slot, this was worring as if i cut the slot at the wrong height there was no room for adjustment. normally i measure twice and cut once but i think with this i measured four or five times and its perfect.

finally weathering and then put the entire train back together. DCC conversion and old joe runs and looks great.









this was never going to be a perfect true to real loco at the end of the day its a cheap old hornby railroad smokey joe however i am happy with it, and my first ever childhood train will run again on my exhibition layout if i ever get it finished.

what do you think.




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Hi Jimmy,

That is one cracker of a job on 'Smokey Joe'. :doublethumb 

Fitting Kadees isn't a fun job to do on this little loco, I know from experience ! I do like the livery you have given her (him?) and the fact that the cab details have been high lighted, including the crew is a bonus. That is one job I have not done to any of my locos, but they are waiting in the tool box for employment/placement.  

Great work PC Styles. ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Jimmy,

Great job on the smokey. I have a few of these which will be subject to a reaping / conversion. They are really great little loco's and so full of character.

Looks good.

Toto

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Nicely done, just needs a little pile of coal on the footplate for feeding the fire.

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Hi Jimmy
Like the makeover on the Smokey Joe, looks good! 

jimmy styles
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Campaman wrote: Nicely done, just needs a little pile of coal on the footplate for feeding the fire.

funny you should say that, as it is tonights job also add coal to the tops of the bunkers on each side of the boiler.

i must say i am actually really happy with the loco and strangely attached to the little lad.

i never thought that i would be this happy with him, as it is the first loco detail and repaint i have ever attempted. 

jimmy styles
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My maths is either very poor or I still consider myself younger than I am. I stated that this loco was 14years old well it's actually 24years old.

shunter1
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Smashing job Jimmy,
Nice to have an old childhood friend running again.
Brilliant job on that Kadee coupling.
Cheers,
Derek.

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I think these little 0-4-0 pugs are brilliant and you done a good job on that one Jimmy.

Allegedly they're based on the LMS class 0F, but there not dissimilar to the North British Railway G Class or any other variant built by Neilson and Company in the late 19th Century.

I didn't have one when I was young, my smallest shunter then was the 3F Jinty, so I've got 3 now and have to keep having to stop myself buying any more.

Notice you don't appear to have put a front coupling on.



Ed
 




jimmy styles
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Wd I decided against a front coupling as this will only face one direction on this shunting plank so trying to keep the front looking clean. Also it is a lot t harder to fit a kadee to the front than to the back, so the back got the coupling. 😃

jimmy styles
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so today i found myself home alone, children at pre school and wife at work, so what happens......

well the layout gets moved into the dinning room, this was so that i coud set up the legs on a perfect flat floor to check. a few tweeks where required and now they are perfect and easy to adjust if the floor is not quite level.

however that did not take long, so i connected my programming test track to the existing track and had a little play.

i'm awaiting my order of points and flexi track so that i can then get all track laid and wired.

the layout is 240cms long which is about 7 feet 10 inches.

slowly taking shape.

please ignore the test track its shabby and wont be on the final layout.

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Looking good. Keep up the work and am looking forward to the next bit.

jimmy styles
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let me start by saying i hope you had a good christmas and new year.

not a lot of modelling was obtained over my christmas period, my two young children put a stop to that. however i now have all the track i need to complete the trackwork on my layout. however after a mad christmas my layout is buried under what looks like a recycling plant in my garage. (why do childrens toys come in so much packaging.)

however santa was kind to me. i opened some kits for my layout one of these kits is a rare resin kit of a british X-craft midget sub. this is of massive interest to me as this is where my grandfather started his naval career. i always knew that these where small but it wasn't until i placed the hull next to a small loco that i saw just how small they where.



should keep me busy for a few weeks.

however my son received his first remote controlled train and train station with a lot of extra track, this may be lego but its a start into the life of all things train and train related.





we do spend a lot of time playing trains now. 


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Great thread Jimmy, following it with increased interest. In 1969/70 I was stationed in Libya and spent a few months shipping tanks (Centurions) and all manner of vehicles onto tranports for shipping out of Tubruck harbour.

jimmy styles
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Ok so a little bit of advice required.

This layout is going to be DCC controlled, points are not having point motors but will be controlled by wire in a tube.

However I have decided to use electro frog points.

My question is do I have to use a switch to change the frog?
Do I have to modify the points?

I know I have to use insulated joiners and I knw where they are required.

I just need as much help as possible

Jim

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Hi Jimmy,

Gary is installing point in tube points on his new industry lane plank and I'm sure he tackles how to cover the frog polarity solution for this. I'd make straight for his thread ASAP.

Cheers

Toto

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toto wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

Gary is installing point in tube points on his new industry lane plank and I'm sure he tackles how to cover the frog polarity solution for this. I'd make straight for his thread ASAP.

Cheers

Toto


Thank you toto I have read his thread and he pointed me in the direction for the switch to change he frog polarity, however I have read on some sites that the points need to be modified and I'm now getting confused.

Jim

Last edited on Sun Jan 25th, 2015 07:16 pm by jimmy styles

toto
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As far as I understand the modification is the removal of the two wire links on the underside of the track. I do this when installing my turnouts but am not to good / clear at explaining the reasoning behind it.

I just know that it is done in conjunction with the use of insulated rail joiners on the frog rails to prevent short circuits depending on the polarity when changing over.

Sol or max would be your best bet to explain this thoroughly. I fear I may just confuse you further. If you hang on until Australia wakens up, I'm sure all will become clearer. Sorry I couldn't be of much use to you.

Ps my Kadee's still have not arrived yet even though dispatched days ago:roll: excuse the topic change there.

Good luck. Your answer will arrive soon...........I'd put my Class 22's on it:mutley

Cheers

Toto

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No that's fine, I'm finding installing kadee's relatively easy with the use of he height guild even on rolling stock without nem sockets.

Now the uncoupling is a f#%king nightmare.
I tried buying some rare earth magnets from eBay which promptly stuck themselves to everything within six feet.

Once I got them under he rails I found that at least one of my loco's got stuck as the magnets where a little to powerful.

I think I may just buy some proper kadee magnets.

I look forward to aus waking up and offering one advice

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Hi Jimmy,

No problem, I just don't want to confuse you all the more.

I have ordered the height guide as well. It's with the Kadee's so they should arrive at the same time or at least according to the despatch note.

I bought little round magnets ( they have a proper name ) some time ago with this in mind but like yourself, if necessary I'll use the proper kadee version.

The thing is, it's trying to determine exactly where to put them. A bit of thought required as it would be ideal to work that out now before the track goes down. Never mind that's for later. I'll be following your thread to see what solution you are given as it's good to get your head around these things even if it's not the method that I am employing at the moment. ....banked for the future possibly.:mutley

Cheers

Toto

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Hi Jimmy,

I'm awake now, after a strong coffee... ;-)

Ok, the points.

You may find that the some Peco electrofrog points don't need anything done to them, that is if they are of the newest stock. I haven't done any modifications to my points (wyes and single slip) at all. They are dcc friendly.

If the underside of your points look like this, don't do any cutting of wires what so ever. This is a single slip.



This is what the above wire is connected to on the top side.






Just wire them up as I have done on Industry Lane.

Now, your magnets for uncoupling...

I have used 3mm square neodymium magnets (purchased in Australia). These were glued in three rows of five individually, between the sleepers. I have only found that the axles of the wagons are attracted to the magnets. I have addsd an extra 19-20 grams of weight to the wagons to help assist with uncoupling. All my locos just roll over with no attraction at all.



I arrange the magnets in order and place a mark on the one edge, before gluing in place with a heavy bonding industrial adhesive, eg, No More Nails. Allow each row to cure before planting the next row. To speed the process up, do one row at every uncoupling point at the same time. Come back a few hours later when you are sure the adhesive has cured and put in the second row. Don't forget the polarity of the third row is opposite to the first two.

Any questions, fire away.

Cheers, Gary.



 

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Gary wrote:









J
Now, your magnets for uncoupling...

I have used 3mm square neodymium magnets (purchased in Australia). These were glued in three rows of five individually, between the sleepers. I have only found that the axles of the wagons are attracted to the magnets. I have addsd an extra 19-20 grams of weight to the wagons to help assist with uncoupling. All my locos just roll over with no attraction at all.



I arrange the magnets in order and place a mark on the one edge, before gluing in place with a heavy bonding industrial adhesive, eg, No More Nails. Allow each row to cure before planting the next row. To speed the process up, do one row at every uncoupling point at the same time. Come back a few hours later when you are sure the adhesive has cured and put in the second row. Don't forget the polarity of the third row is opposite to the first two.

Any questions, fire away.

Cheers, Gary.

 


Gary, both Perry and I found that all 3 rows need to be the same magnetic poling otherwise the Kadee glad arm gets confused.

2 rows is not quite enough magnetism.

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I was wondering why you would want to reverse the magnetic polarity on the last row. I don't understand that. I am assuming it must be for some operational purpose.

Apologies for deviating from your electrical topic Jimmy. Maybe we could take this elsewhere as I will be installing Kadee's as well and it would be good to have more centralised info on it for easy reference, unless you want it here Jimmy.

Thanks again

Toto

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I'm quite happy with it here as I'm getting so confused with these magnets. I have tried little round ones, not strong enough and now larger square ones where they span the entire width but these are to powerful, which face of the magnet needs to be which polarity??

Also with the points my first one is wired differently underneath the switch blades and frig are all linked together so I'm assuming I need to put a bridging wire in, cut the link and a frog switch?? Hope that makes some sort of sense

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Hi Jimmy,

Sounds like you have the same version of the points as me. I gave two very small links ( about 2 or 3 mm long ) that I cut out. They link the switch rails to the frog. Then I solder two links in which I also use to connect to my dropper wires.

It sounds like you are going in the right direction.

Once you have done it for the first time, you'll be up and away.

I'll be back home on Friday and if nobody from the better informed has chipped in with a definite answer, I'll stick my neck out and post a photo of how I deal with mine. Not wire in tube but I think the principles as to what connections you need in terms of a track feed to the outer track and isolation of the frog are the same.

I hope I'm not offering this too late and holding you back. I should have done this earlier in the weekend but I thought a more understandable explanation may have come from the more knowledgeable.:mutley

Cheers

Toto

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Jimmy,

This diagram will help you to explain why Perry and Sol had decided on the 3mm Cubed Neodymium magnets.


On the left are the 20mm x 10mm x 5mm rectangular magnets. These magnets have the poles on the broad flat surfaces, making the whole surface either a North pole or South pole. The diagram of them stacked shows how they are attracted to each other.

The right hand side magnets are the 3mm cubed magnets. Again they have poles on either side of the cube. Once they are laid horizontal, the poles are still on the very ends and not on the flat longitudinal plan, as with the rectangular magnets. Having the poles on either end is what attracts the glad hands (tail) of the couplers to open in oppposite direction, releasing the knuckles.

The larger magnets will not work like the 3mm cubes do. I would recommend ditching the rectangular and large cubes and purchase some 3mm cube magnets.

Hope this explaination helps.

Cheers, Gary.

jimmy styles
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Not holding me up at all, I have again a busy week and only one set of points to play with at the mo. So all the help is much appreciated. Will try to get the rest of the points ordered this week. In the mean time I will continue playing with the one I have to try to get my head around it.

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I went to order points from Hattons yesterday and they only had one set of left hand curved points in stock.

I asked about a pre delivery order but they couldn't take one until the stock arrives. They could not give me any more accurate an idea than " a couple of weeks time " not like Hattons at all ....... Went to rails of Sheffield and ordered there. £ 1.50 dearer per set of points. All in all I'm £15 down as I ordered 10 sets in total. I probably could have waited as I won't be starting on the higher level for a good few weeks yet but I just did not appreciate the way the answer came over .......... Very unusual for Hattons indeed.

Anyway, I'll post up a pic of my conversions when I get back up the road.

Cheers and keep up the good work.

Toto

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Ok quick question, do I have to modify the electrofrog points and use a frog polarity switch?? The reason being is I connected my point up to some test track using insulated joiners on the frog, but with out a frog polarity switch or modifying the point and found that every train run faultlessly over the point.

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Think I may have just answered my own question......

After twenty mins of testing (playing) trains on the dinning room table with some scrap track and non modified electrofrog points I had in total three short circuits where the wheel has just tapped the switch blade causing a short.

So modifying is the way ahead!! I will post pictures once I get one completed.

Sol
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jimmy styles wrote: three short circuits where the wheel has just tapped the switch blade causing a short.



Not only will the modifications fix the short circuits but I would look closely at the back to backs of the wheels, I suspect they are closer than should be

Have a look at this http://www.doubleogauge.com/standards/commercialwheels.htm

jimmy styles
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Yes I have thought about the bb measurements and having access to a metal laith I have decided to build my own gauge. I will post some pictures once completed.

jimmy styles
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ok i am still plodding along slowly with my project but the track is still not laid which is now starting to bug me. however i have been at work everyday for the last nine days and the two days i have off i have the children as my wife is at work so finding time is a little hard at the mo.

however i have now modified all the points (all four of them) so not many really, i found my soldering is a little poor but it seems to work.



i will cut the tie bar down as well, although as all my track work will be sunk into paving it wont show anyway.

i have also built my midget submarine X-craft, this was a resin kit and and i have never worked in resin this was a quick learning curve.



i have no idea where to put this on the layout, but as this is where my grandad started his navy career i thought it was best to include it. i was thinking of possibly having it on some sort of dolly being moved by a tractor?? any ideas??

i have also built another cracking airfix kit to have in the yard with all the other military vehicles.



i'm really quite happy with how this little monster turned out.

now what i really need some advice on is my buildings.

i have always modelled in wills embossed plastic card but in corse stone,

now my questions that i need your help on is as follows,

1) do i build my buildings out of brick or dressed stone?? which would look better?? for a WWII dockside.
2) if i use brick how do i paint it as i have never painted brick??

i have had a play around with painting brick and i'm not sure how it looks what do you think??



i used two different effects on this the far right is more bold where as the left is lighter which looks more real if at all?



now i know this is not brick its stone put it has been painted as if it was brick but does this look right (pretend its brick.)

how do you paint brick?? any ideas please.



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Hi Jimmy,

The painted brick on the right and the stone below looks like what you should be aiming for. Having some variation in colour is the right thing in my opinion. Dry brush technique is the way to go when painting stone/brick work, followed by a wash between the bricks to highlight the mortar. I have seen this video of the Hornby washes and they do look quite easy to use.

See here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCPlzt3uG6Y

Cheers, Gary.

jimmy styles
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Thanks for that I think that is the way forward just not sure if stone buildings would look quite right. I'm still a long way off the buildings but I do like to start planning

D_Will
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Hi Jimmy, I think you should put the sub like you say, being move on a dolly or something! I think that'd be cool. or you could periodically switch it out with the boat. :)

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so i have finally pulled my finger out and got around to track laying.

i basically decided that i wanted all the track to be down in one day, so finally not working and not looking after my children the day was set.

i packed my wife and children off to the inlaws for the day and took over our dining room.

i decided that i needed to call in reinforcements so i got my dad to help.



my dad working hard.



so finally in took most of the day however this is where i got to.

i now have the following to do,

1) all the droppers and the electrical bus to complete.
2) piano wire to install for the point contro.
3) work out some way of mounting the switches to control the piano wire and the electric for the frogs as i'm using electrofrog points.

once that is complete i can test all the track extensively before starting on the scenic section (basically play trains.)

i have used all peco code 100 track for the simple reasons that it works and works well. i dont need to worry about the sleepers or the height of the rail looking unrealistic as nearly all of it will be hidden under the paving of the dockside.

i'm pretty happy with it so far, as its actually looking like a railway.


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Coming along nicely :)

Cheers


Matt

toto
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Hi Jimmy,

It all looks very neat. If you forget about the sector plate, I reckon you have about 14 sets of track feeds to do. That's not to bad. An hour or so would see them done.

I tend to solder mine before I lay the track but it's everyone to their own I suppose. The combination of piano wire to switch points and somehow change polarity to the frog could be a challenge.
I'm sure someone will have the answer though.

I'll look forward not only to the trains and scenics but also the militarisation of the layout as I like that theme.

Cheers for now

Toto.

Marty
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That is a huge step forward Jimmy, now you have a railway!

Sounds like it was a good father and son day too.

Cheers


Marty

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Great to see some track down. :thumbs You must be happy with that.. ;-)

As for frog polarity switching, if you are using 'wire in tube' method, here is a diagram I drew up, explaining the way the points are switched as well as the polarity. I am using this method on Industry Lane.


Here is a pc of the switches I use :



These can be purchased from Maplins : http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/double-pole-sub-miniature-fh35q

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Fri Mar 13th, 2015 05:07 am by Gary

jimmy styles
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Gary that is how I intend to do it but I will have the piano wire under the board.

Toto all the droppers where connected to the track while we where laying them I just gotta attack all the wires hanging under the board now.

James

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ok i have been busy in the garden, decorating, coping with my children and working over the last few weeks so not to much has gone on with my layout, however i did spend some time attaching the back scene. this is 3mm Ply but does require a little more bracing to stop any flex.

i have painted the backscene blue however this is just a base coat as a photographic back scene will be attached. it is 15inches tall.





as you can see i have a few droppers to connect, also the wires for the frog polarity. however before i make a start on wiring i need to connect all the piano wire to the switches for the point control. hopfully it wont be long until i can test some loco's (play trains.)



also a few more wagons have had kadee couplings fitted and fitted nice and close, they look great.

i have been converting some rolling stock which i will share with you if what i am attempting works.

i am getting there just slowly

jimmy styles
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so i have decided that the first bit of scenery is going to be the harbor, i have started with the ramp and the walling and i'm quite happy with how this has turned out. i used balsa strip wood for the posts and roughed them up a bit. i used wills plastikard for the stone work.

i did a lot of research in the posts at various harbors and found that they are not evenly spaced just seem to be placed as and when, so i have done the same, which has sent my OCD through the roof :lol:

my question is for your advice and help is how do i make realistic looking sea??? it needs to be a little rough as its clearly not a pond.

any help please!!



the base removed from the layout so i can work on it easier.



i could not resist placing the motor torpedo boat (the kit that started the idea for this layout) in place to see what it looked like.

help and advice please

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I plan on having a harbour on my layout also, the baseborad is cut ready with the dropped section, my thoughts are that I would use a thin layer of filler to make a wobbly surface then paint using greeny blues and greeny browns, followed by either multiple coats of PVA or Gloss varnish.

I need to do some experiments first though, or you can do them and I can just copy your method...

:mutley

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I achieved this by adding ballast underneath the initial layer of yacht varnish and applying some layers before the previous one had hardened thoroughly, but experimentation is definitely the right way to go ....good luck

jimmy styles
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Campaman wrote:
I plan on having a harbour on my layout also, the baseborad is cut ready with the dropped section, my thoughts are that I would use a thin layer of filler to make a wobbly surface then paint using greeny blues and greeny browns, followed by either multiple coats of PVA or Gloss varnish.

I need to do some experiments first though, or you can do them and I can just copy your method...

:mutley


I have just cut a bit of ply and added a thin layer of filler, it's not easy to make it look like a sea surface. I will paint it in a bit and post the outcome!!

Campaman
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From my own research I think part of the process in getting a ripple or wave effect is to work the PVA or Varnish once it becomes tacky but before its too dry to work with.

Phil.c
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One of the best and easiest way to add Polyfilla is with an artists palett knife but not the type where the blade is in line with the handle.

Phil

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Phil.c wrote:
One of the best and easiest way to add Polyfilla is with an artists palett knife but not the type where the blade is in line with the handle.

Phil


I'm not sure what sort that is can you post a picture??

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Hi Jimmy,

The harbour scene looks great and the military models are fantastic as well. I like the amphibious vehicle best. Really good. I think I said before I'm a Second World War fan myself so to see these models is great.

I hope they don't take too much attention away from your railway modelling:mutley

Great stuff

Toto.

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You need the top two types with the blade not too big or pointed, the jig allows the blade to get down into the work, just go into any art supply shop, it's better to see the size that way.

http://www.cassart.co.uk/painting/accessories_1/palette_knives/rgm_wooden_palette_knife.htm

Phil

Last edited on Thu May 14th, 2015 08:39 pm by Phil.c

jimmy styles
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Phil.c wrote:
You need the top two types with the blade not too big or pointed, the jig allows the blade to get down into the work, just go into any art supply shop, it's better to see the size that way.

http://www.cassart.co.uk/painting/accessories_1/palette_knives/rgm_wooden_palette_knife.htm

Phil



Thank you that helps a lot

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Once you get the basic shapes done with the standard mix of Polyfilla, you could do a creamy mix that when put over the top will smooth things out, it's a case of suck it and see.

Phil

Last edited on Thu May 14th, 2015 09:01 pm by Phil.c

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H Jimmy,

Here is a you tube link to modelling water. The modeller uses a product called Mod Podge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgWt137zpkQ    Another product you can use is Gesso.

Cheers, Gary.

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Just watched the video and the finished result looks great but for a harbour I imagine the water would be smoother with smaller ripples as it is a sheltered area so I imagine you would have to be a bit more creative with the application of the mod podge it doesnt look expensive so it may be worth while having a few practices first.
Pete.

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Hi Pete, just a suggestion why not cut yourself three or four thin overlays to fit the harbor area , then you can try different techniques on the overlays until you get the one you like and just stick it down on top ?   saves mucking up the original :)


cheers


 Matt

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so i have been playing around with different methods.

next is to try some delux materials solid water

the first and only so far was to build up the base with cheap filler into a slight wavy effect, paint and then add a couple of layers of PVA,

here is a picture of what i have achieved. i placed bob in there to get some idea of the size of waves.

i'm not happy with the coloring as i think a harbor sea is more of a murky brown.



i have also added a layer of 6mm foam to the harbor to bring up the water line around the boat so that it looks like its actually floating.



what do you think??


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Looks good, Jim.

Mind you, I think the Captain should get out of the way of the gun.  :lol:

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I like it very much. :thumbs

You wrote : "i'm not happy with the coloring as i think a harbor sea is more of a murky brown."

Does the colour of the harbour depend on whether it is accessed via a river/chanel or directly on the coastline ? Or is it that the water pollution is bad ??

Iwould imagine if it was on a coastline, it would be a green in colour, whereas on a chanel or river, it would be much more brown due to the sediment being stirred by passing vessels

Cheers, Gary.

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The trick is to make it translucent, ie. A coat of brown, then a thin wash over that of green or vice versa, the object being to let the base colour show through.

Phil

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Very effective result, I agree with the suggestion to build up in layers to get a translucent depth to the water, if the harbour is not fed by a river the water would probably be pretty clear so maybe some stuff on the bottom would be showing through, there is always junk on the sea bed when I have been to Bridlington harbour.



Just off topic slightly, has anyone had problems with Google Chrome? Since yesterday morning I havent been able to connect, I don,t have a problem with Firefox.

Pete. 

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ok so i thought it was about time for a update.

i am still working on what to do for my sea effect but have started on painting my walling.



next up was back to some rolling stock, i was brought a nice little white metal kit of a diesel shunter, in order to make this correct for my era i had to make some small changes from diesel to the petrol predecessor. this was the first white metal loco kit i have ever attempted and i am quite happy with how it has turned out.





primer and ready for some paint.



now for some transfers and weathering




jimmy styles
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so next up was a little project i have been working on for some time.

i am happy with the WWII theme and having war flats with tanks etc on but i wanted something a little different, i started looking at ambulance trains and doing lots and lots of internet history.

i had a quick dig through the odds and sods box and found two old hornby coaches which at some point long ago i painted crimson and cream. perfect!!



i had planned to convert both however as my layout is quite small i opted for just the brake coach.

i started by running all the layers of paint down and making it flat.

then gave the entire coach a coat of paint and ripped out the old horrible glazing.



i wanted some detail and coach lighting so i researched the real ones and they had rows of bunk beds. i knocked this up, it was very tricky but i'm happy with how this has turned out. my wife just shakes her head at me as you can hardly see this through the coach but the devil is in the detail.



for some of the lettering i choose to use letraset.



fitted with inside lightning and a working tail light and weathered. i have changed the wheels and fitted kadee couplings.

i am actually really happy with and pleased that i have given a new life to a unloved old coach.

just as i carried the coach outside to take the photo i did drop it however only caused very slight damage to the roof which was touched up then the photos taken.

what do you guys think??

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Looks great I like the shunter too!

Phil

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An amazing transformation Jim,excellent work.

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Hi Jim

Coach looks great :thumbs

What did you use to put the loco kit together?


Ed

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Thank you all for the kind comments.

For the loco kit I used two park epoxy. I tried solder but it was useless (I was useless)

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Great work with those models Jimmy. The interior of the coach is a nice touch of detail. :thumbs:thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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Excellent work on both loco and coach, I have never seen an ambulance coach modelled before, very good finish well done.
Pete.

Marty
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Both look terrific. Great little shunter.
On several occasions I've had to resist the urge to detail the inside of buildings despite really wanting to.... I'm talking N scale here!

.... and to me it sounds like you are enjoying yourself and are pleased with the work....
In the end that is all that matters.
Keep it coming.
Marty

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so i have been working on this harbor (why did i choose this as a theme)

so its proving to be harder than i first thought.

i started off by raising the level of the water so that the boat would appear to be siting in the water not on top of the water.

i then put down a layer of plaster of paris. once this was set i painted the base in a range of colours to try to simulate depth.

after hours of research on the internet i decided on deluxe materials solid water and i have to say this is an amazing product if you dont make the same mistake as me.

i firstly sealed the base so that i could pour the solid water mix in.



once i thought this was ready i poured the mis in and went out.

now here is the issue when i returned home some two hours later i found that the mix had found any small gap between wood etc and leaked out everywhere making a right old mess. (luckily in the garage.)

however it leave a very layer which has set like glass and looks quite good.





i'm happy with the colours but just dont know if this has worked,

please please let me know your views.

i am contemplating using another deluxe material product called making waves to add to the surface to make it choppy.

jimmy styles
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I have spent days looking at this and finally came to the decision that I am not happy with the finish it is a little to smooth and to much like a still pond/lake.

I have tonight added another layer which is more rippled and slightly less shiney in the hope that it will look more like a calm harbour. I will post a picture once it dries ( that's if I have not got completely fed up and thrown it out of a window.)

mattc6911
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Patience young one, Its almost there. I can see what you mean about it being too smooth, but you don't want to much ripple, just enough to make it look like a breeze rippling the surface...do a little and you can always add a bit more.  :thumbs



Cheers

   Matt

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so i previously posted about my water effects in my harbour and the fact that i had used a great product by deluxe material called solid water and the fact that i had a couple of issues with it (all self inflicted by lack of Patience.)



well after posting pictures on various forums and facebook i spent a couple of days just looking at what i had achieved. and the biggest critic is always yourself. i quickly decided that although i thought it looked good i myself was not quite happy with it. i was not quite happy with the colour or the finish. and if i had left it although it would look good i would never really be happy......



so i rubbed a bit of the top layer down and repainted the surface to a more convincing colour. slightly less camo looking. i mixed vallejo acrlics i love these paints. i used just three colours "grass green" "earth brown" and "royal blue" watered down and mixed until i thought it looked right.



then for the water effect, i decided not to bother with expensive products but to try good old fashioned ideas. i practiced on a test piece first. i found that if you apply lots of thin layers of PVA and let it dry between layers than it leaves a nice rippled finish that has a real sense of depth to it. however if a layer is applied to think then it will go cloudy and white and look rubbish so some care if required. 


this is at about layer 4 or 5







this has about 10 - 12 layers on it i'm not sure i lost count. 












this is the finished effect, now i'm actually quite happy with it so quickly going to bolt it back to the layout before i mess it up.



what do you think??

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Hi

The water looks great. Very convincing and not over the top with movement. You are on a winner there I think.

Terrific

Toto

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Yup looks better tto me as well :thumbs

Ianvolvo46
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Definitely more realistic, sometimes we just over think things, great project.

Ian

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having tied up in lots of harbours, I think I can say that looks the real deal :doublethumb
:thumbs;-):cool:

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Hi Jim

That water looks great.  I've got some ahead of me.

Did you just use the Solid Water - or did you build it up with PVC?

I'm sorry if I've missed it.

Edit - just found it.  Thin layers of PVC  :oops:

How thick is thin?  :lol:

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Thin enough, applied with small brush.

Basically thin enough that you can see it start to dry almost straight away but thick enough you can texture it slightly.

My orignal plan was to use solid water and after about ten hours you can texture it with a old tooth brush, but because I didn't seal the base it all leaked out.

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Thanks, Jim.

I've got quite a big area to do - about 3.5 metres x 400 mm by about 20 mm deep.

I was going to use Magic Water, but it could turn out to be very expensive.

I might do what you've done and build it up with PVA first.

jimmy styles
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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Thanks, Jim.

I've got quite a big area to do - about 3.5 metres x 400 mm by about 20 mm deep.

I was going to use Magic Water, but it could turn out to be very expensive.

I might do what you've done and build it up with PVA first.


Yes magic water would be very very expensive but like I previously said if sealed right is a great product.

However I do like the pva way of doing water.

I raised the level of my water by using depron foam and sitting the boat into it so that the water would not be to deep.

As the deeper it is the longer it will take and the more heavy it will be.

Gary
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Magnificent ! That has come up a treat. Funny how the simplest, tried and tested methods are always the best. ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

Campaman
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Great looking water, I am just at that stage now with my small harbour here

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13635&forum_id=21&jump_to=244899#p244899

Is the rippeling effect purely from the PVA or is some of it from your base material?

I have done a canal before using PVA but that only needed a few coats and no ripples.

jimmy styles
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The rippling effect is just the pva each layer I have put down is done rough and gradually builds a rippled effect.

jakesdad13
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I recall reading an article in model railway journal by Gordon Gravett on modelling his canal on his layout Pamplon, ( I think thats what it is called ) and he painted the base layer then varnished it then on top of the varnish he blobbed drops of pva once they had dried he put several layers of gloss varnish to build up the depth of water, the finished effect looked like a slowly running river or canal with gentle ripples, very effective.

Pete.

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Cheers to you both, once I have a boat I will get the PVA layers going.

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If you do the pva just remember thin layers and let each dry otherwise to thick and it stays white. I practised on a old bit of wood first

Marty
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Same with varnish. Be patient.

How do I know this?

:shock:

Cheers

Marty

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Yep advice installed within brain.

I have used PVA and Varnish before but only for a canal and a pond, so it didn't take many layers, its the ripples that I am after.

jimmy styles
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so not much has actually happen on the layout of late however i have started on of the many buildings which i will share with you all soon, however i did want to share with you some of the rolling stock that i have ready, all dcc and all fitted with kadee couplings.







now some of the wagons which are heavily converted and weathered.









and this is for starters.




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I like those, really good weathering on all the items! Well done and good images to boot!!:)

Cheers
Ron

Marty
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I still think that the truck shunter is wonderful!

Nice weathering on the brake van too.


Marty

Last edited on Fri Jul 31st, 2015 02:07 pm by Marty

Ed
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Is that a Sherman 'funny' Jim ?

Does it come as a kit or did you have to adapt one?


Ed

PS Sure I recognise the 25pounder with limber, didn't know they still made it.


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The Sherman is a lot as a mine clearance vehicle although I did cut off all the plastic moulded chains and changed to proper chains which rock ages cutting each length of chain but the finished result is most pleasing

Ed
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All looking good :thumbs


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Congratulations on picture of the week Jimmy :pathead:pathead
Well deserved!

Cheers
Ron

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Well deserved. Great picture

Toto

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Your on the front page, congratulations, well done :thumbs

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Yep front page news. Well deserved, congratulations  Jimmy. :thumbs


Cheers

   Matt

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Love the water Jim! looks great!

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I'm so pleased to be picked for front page picture thank you so much. It's kind comments like that keeps me going.

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Yep, congrats, you deserve it with that picture, hope my sea comes out as good.

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Well deserved, Jim - and not a train in sight.  :lol:

jimmy styles
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so i have decided that as i have a few days off work i would make a start on some buildings.



i decided that the first one i would tackle would also be the scenic break.



i started off by making a cardboard template, i'm used to building little stone cottages so the sheer size of this confused me but i'm fully aware that factory buildings are not small.



once i had the template, i started off cutting the rear and side wall (the ones you will never be able to see) out of 3mm ply wood for strength and also i had some laying around.



the front walls where built using wills plastic card.






next onto some paint, now i have never built a brick built building i always work in stone so like the water in my harbour this is very new to me. i practiced on lots of off cuts until i was happy with the finish. it actually looks better in natural light than it does with the flash on the camera.








i then moved onto the windows which are very thin wood already cut purchased from a online auction site. i am really pleased with these windows. they have been painted and installed just awaiting glazing.



then finally for now i moved onto the sliding door for the workshop. i built the doors using very thin balsa wood and the runners using evergreen scrap angle left over from another project.






so this is where i have got to, what do you think so far.

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Pretty impressive! make sure you post the finished building it looks the part!!:):)

Cheers
Ron

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I'm planning to do a detailed inside to go with the open doors

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Looks very good. The windows help make it as well. Nicely done.:thumbs

Toto

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Looking good Ron.

Nice tight work on the edges and windows.

The bottom door runner needs to be recessed into the ground doesn't it? Or maybe put in a floor inside and a ramp outside.

Otherwise it'll be a. It of an impediment to traffic!

Cheers

Marty

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The entire building is going to be recessed into the ground, good spot though as if I had used it I would be up the creek without a paddle ha ha

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Nothing an angle grinder won't fix.... :lol:

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Hi Jimmy,

The models look superb and I'll echo Marty's thoughts on the brake van. Very nice indeed. The scratchbuilt factory/warehouse is coming along nicely. Neat job. :thumbs

Also, congrats on 'Picture of the Week'. a well deserved prize for an lovely piece of modelling. The water looks terific. :pathead

Cheers, Gary.

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Gary wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

The models look superb and I'll echo Marty's thoughts on the brake van. Very nice indeed. The scratchbuilt factory/warehouse is coming along nicely. Neat job. :thumbs

Also, congrats on 'Picture of the Week'. a well deserved prize for an lovely piece of modelling. The water looks terific. :pathead

Cheers, Gary.


Thank you Gary, I still hold you partially responsible for the sector of plate

jimmy styles
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ok so today was a bit more factory madness, however i did have to take the family shopping,

so the challenge today was how to put a company name on the side of the building. i wanted something to do with myself and my family. but also the writing on the side wall had to look as though it had been there a while and started to fade and peal off.

i luckily have a plotter so using sticky backed plastic i made a template.



the photo above is the used template with bits missing.

however the template when new was stuck onto my building in the correct place and using a mix of white and grey paint i lightly dry brushed over.

once the mask was removed it revealed what i think looks like its been there twenty or so years and i think its quite effective.


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That's a really good result Jimmy, looks the business!! :):)

Cheers
Ron

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great result Jimmy, that's going to look good in situ

Cheers


   Matt

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Excellent, Jim. 

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Nicely done. 

When you say plotter, do you mean plotter cutter? or did you cut the letters out by hand?

cheers
Marty

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Marty wrote:
Nicely done. 

When you say plotter, do you mean plotter cutter? or did you cut the letters out by hand?

cheers
Marty


Plotter cutter ha ha I could never cut them by hand. I basically design what I want and my cutter cuts it out of sticky vinyl

Marty
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Thanks Jimmy... You've probably told us but would you remind me which one you have and would you recommend it?

cheers
Marty

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Not sure what make it is we have had it about six years it cost about 500 quid when purchased. Mainly used for other hubby's but for this it was perfect. Think I will use it for the layout name when I build the lighting rig

jimmy styles
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so i have been a little busy over the last few days making a bit of a modelling effort.

firstly i decided that i had to finish the scenic break factory. this involved fitting the roof, guttering and drain pipes. i have also installed interior walls in the workshop and lightning. at some point in the future this will receive a detailed workshop.



here it is on the layout, notice that the rails under the arch are set in cobblestone, this will be the same throughout the entire layout.

next up was a decision on what to place at the end of the long siding which runs along the front of the fiddle yard. originally i was thinking about just a wall with a buffer stop in front but this was boring. then i thought instead of a wall i could make it look like the rear wall of a large factory with a buffer stop in front. i decided that this was equally boring. then while trying to sleep i kept thinking about the layout (sad i know), however the idea of a low relief factory frontage with closed doors as if the rails run straight into a wagon workshop. the idea was set.



i designed this building to match the row of low relief buildings that will line the backscene. it is not finished but in my opinion is looking good already.



my next issue was one that i have been putting off...... i needed to install a way of controlling the points and attack the wiring. it was now time that i could run trains while building.

all my points are electrofrog points so the polarity needed to be switched with the points. i decided against electric point motors for two reasons firstly cost and secondly i want to exhibit this layout and if a point motor goes down at a show thats a big problem.

i had to go old school. i opted for small swtiches that will change the polarity mechanically and be attached to the point by way of piano wire. my father happened to have some aircraft spec aluminum laying around so that is what we used to make the mounting bracket.

the piano wire is joined in the middle by a connecting block so that there is loads of room for adjustment. this method has worked so so well so far.



however to test this full i had to actually do the bit i have been really dreading, wiring up the full layout. i know that DCC just needs to wires but i seem to have somewhat more. basically to insure that i have trouble free running every section of track has a power feed. cutting all of these to length and connecting them took a long time. now if i was to do this again i would connect a section and test it then move on to the next section.

however as i started the postman delivered a new loco (LMS 10000 from rails of sheffield) i know that this is not a WWII loco but i have wanted it for a very long time. because this was delivered i wanted to get all the wiring done so i could run my new Loco.

i completed all the wiring then and only then thought "i hope this is all correct." to my surprise it is perfect and the Loco's run so so well.



if you look closely at the photo you can see the piano wires that run the points.



from the top you can see that it is slowly taking shape and its hard to believe there is that much wiring for such a small layout.

and finally here is a picture of my new Loco. this wont be used on this layout at shows but i'm sure will run a lot at home.





so what do you think so far??

Last edited on Wed Aug 26th, 2015 07:09 pm by jimmy styles

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Excellent Jimmy.
You would be 'happy as Larry' knowing the wiring is all good and locos are running. The buildings are first class. Keep it up. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Thu Aug 27th, 2015 08:11 am by Gary

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Great stuff, Jim.  :thumbs

I'm pleased to see that you give it all a good hose down afterwards, to get all the dirt off.  :lol:

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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Great stuff, Jim.  :thumbs

I'm pleased to see that you give it all a good hose down afterwards, to get all the dirt off.  :lol:


Is that not how everyone cleans their layout.

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Looking good, what have you used to fix your point control wires under the board, its a job I need to get on with so am looking at pinching ideas :-)

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I used sticky backed cable tie mounts to hold the piano wire in place then used them again with cable ties to hold all the wires. Hope this helps

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Tidy work Jim

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jimmy styles wrote: I used sticky backed cable tie mounts to hold the piano wire in place then used them again with cable ties to hold all the wires. Hope this helps
Thanks for the info, I was considering some form of cable tie, maybe stuck on with a hot glue gun, not sure if I would trust anything self adhesive as hooks and other items I have tried in the past have all fell of in the end, apart from the one you want to get off, that always stays firmly stuck.

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so i decided that no war themed layout would be complete without some military personnel, i spent quite a while looking around and found that all the ones i could find where either in battle or standing to attention, then i came across these figures which are for military wargamers and just perfect, nearly every figure is either in a different pose or can be adapted. this was perfect.



i have four of these so plenty of figures to paint to make this busy military harbour look busy.

i decided to start with just a few as i think if i did them all at ounce i'd get bored.







the last man on the row (excuse the poor photo) has been adapted and i built using a LED a working hurricane lamp. i ran the wires along his arm and down his back to his foot, these wires unless looking for them are almost completly hidden.






g0ibi
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That takes me back a few years!! Military modelling and war gaming in my younger days!! :):)
Very well done!

Cheers
Ron

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Very fine figure painting of those troops Jimmy. I'm soon to discover if I can still do justice to the little people myself, after decades away. Do you use an illuminated magnifier?

Your layout is going to be a joy. Well done.

Bill :)  

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I'm still lucky enough that as long as I sit the window with a lot of light I can see what I'm doing. (Just)

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Excellent work Jimmy, the painting is amazing!  Pete.

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Those figures are outstanding, great paint job. :thumbs 

Now with that much blue bubblegum around, you would think they wouldn't stand in it... :mutley:mutley

Keep up the good work.

Cheers, Gary.

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so i decided to take a break from painting figures and decided to work on some more factories.

i found a company on the internet that produce low relief resin building's. i liked the look of these and thought that it would be great to modify and kit bash.

i quickly ordered two and to my amazement they turned up a couple of days later. they are made by skytrex and the detail and quality is really really good.




first off i set about cutting a hole in it for the loading door as i wanted to add a loading door and platform. i then made another wall out of plastic card so that i could attach this building to the little building i was in the process of building, but i wanted it to look as though it was one large building.




next up was building the doors and final weathering.


and this is how it looks on the layout.



the next mission is to fit lights under the canopy's and above the door on the end building.

i'm pleased with this and matches the large warehouse / factory already built.

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Excellent, well done keep up the good work :thumbs:thumbs.

Pete.

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thank you for the kind words, i am about to start work on the biggest warehouse that will span the majority of the backscene. wish me luck

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I wish you luck, but with these outstanding models, I doubt you'll need it. The buildings are superb. :thumbs:thumbs

Keep up the great work.

Cheers, Gary.

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That's a great job at matching the brickwork and blending the buildings together. 
Nice work.

Marty

Last edited on Wed Sep 16th, 2015 08:58 am by Marty

jakesdad13
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As Gary says, I don,t think luck has any say in it, you have got the skill and you can use it, well done. 

Pete.

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Ok I have a question that I'm hoping you can really help with. For my harbour floor I'm planning to use das air dry clay.

Does anyone have any tips as I have never used it before

Campaman
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I have used it to do cobbles and to cover buildings to scribe in stone work.

For stone work I roll it out using a rolling pin to get a nice thin layer and then glue to the former om the building using PVA, you can scribe it when it still wet or when it dries.

When I did cobbles I pinch off a piece from the block and spread it out onto the PVA'd surface using a wet spatular, doing a bit at a time and smooting with the spatula as I go, I scribed the cobbles when dry.

It can crack as it dries, I keep an eye on it an if I see cracks forming I spray with water and re-smooth, I also seal it with a coat of PVA/Water as its drying, seems to help with the cracking.

As usual an experiment on some scrap is your best bet.

Last edited on Wed Oct 21st, 2015 10:57 am by Campaman

jimmy styles
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Thank you for your advice I have purchased some clay and stuck a old piece of track to a board now it's time to have a play

jimmy styles
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so my thoughts have been on how to do the flooring around the harbour as i want all the rails set in the ground.

i thought about cobble stones but after some research it appeared that most busy harbours seemed to use granite blocks. so how was i going to achieve this.

my first reaction was to use the will plastikard sheets of granite blocks but decided that this would look good but would appear very uniform and not so much like hand laid blocks and would also cost a small fortune.

so my attention was drawn to air dry clay.

i purchased a block of das air dry clay and attached a bit of rail to a piece of wood to be my test.

i set about applying the air dry clay and hand scribed the granite sets.


so after this had dried i set about seeing how i could paint the sets. i couldn't then resist placing a few bits on to see what it would look like.







i'm quite happy with this although it does need some grime around the rails and in the middle.
what do you guys think, if you have any criticism please tell me now before i move onto the actual layout.

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Like the look of those granite blocks you've done there Jimmy, quite realistic looking, takes me back to when I was growing up in Cornwall! Proper job.

Marty
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Nowt wrong with that lot Jimmy.

Marty

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Looks bl@@dy good :thumbs


Ed

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Jimmy, Gastwo Posted this great method if you are wanting to put the cobbles in faster: http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13617&forum_id=93&jump_to=243588#p243588
It's on the 3rd post
Darius

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Well that certainly looks the business Jimmy !  Well played sir ;-)

Bill :)

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Looks blooming good to me mate

:thumbs

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Thanks guys I'm happy with them so think I will start doing sections now on the actual layout

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Great work on the granite sets Jimmy. Even though this is a test piece, the layout will look brilliant with this surface. :thumbs:thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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Yep they do look good, are the rails still slightly proud of the surface so that you can clean them without damaging the cobbles?

jimmy styles
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Campaman wrote:
Yep they do look good, are the rails still slightly proud of the surface so that you can clean them without damaging the cobbles?

Yes still very slightly proud I tried on the test piece to see how easy they where to clean, you have to be careful but possible

jimmy styles
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so for my next building i decided i wanted something large and striking for the backdrop for the entire harbour, i did a lot of research on the internet (what did we do before the internet.)
i found a style of building i wanted and set about drawing up the plans.

it was only when i started to stick the plastikard together that i discovered just how big this building was going to be, i named it the monster warehouse.






not being worried about the size of this project i set about cutting the doors and windows and building the loading towers. the RSJ loading rig is a copy of a real one and i think looks quite effective.





i couldnt resist keep putting the monster on the layout to see how it looked. it just appeared to keep getting bigger.



the hardest part of the build was the roof and getting the angles to look correct.

i continued with painting and weathering. but i had to think of a name for the warehouse. thats when my father came up with POOLE BRO's as POOLE is my late mothers maiden name. i just love to add personal touches to my models.

so i continued to add details. i really wanted some rusty chain blocks hanging but in my research i found that if the doors where shut then the chain blocks would have been removed in order to protect them from the elements.

also in my research i found that the loading floors below the very top all hand hinged platforms to ease loading that would only be lowered if again the doors where open. i kinda wished that i had modeled at least one door open but being low reilef i just didnt have the depth.

well here is the finished building.









and finally in its new home.




so how do you think the monster turned out??

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You can be really proud of that 'monster'!

Doug

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Big AND beautiful it is Jimmy. If those Luftwaffe chaps come over to take a look-see, will you be modelling the after effects? Just a thought :cry:

Bill :)

Last edited on Thu Nov 5th, 2015 06:46 pm by Longchap

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Big and beautiful, Jimmy.  :thumbs

jimmy styles
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Longchap wrote:
Big AND beautiful it is Jimmy. If those Luftwaffe chaps come over to take a look-see, will you be modelling the after effects? Just a thought :cry:

Bill :)



The after effects now that's an idea, think I had better draw the line somewhere but a good idea ha ha

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I think it brings the whole 'Dockside'  Theme into perspective !  Fantastic job :thumbs


Cheers


   Matt

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A terrific build. Very impressive and once again, fits in a treat with the rest.:thumbs

Toto

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I'm liking this very much, top job. :thumbs The paint/weathering of the brickwork is fantastic. 

This is what we have come to expect from you, I hope you do realise this now ! ;-);-)

Can I ask which make are the windows ?

Cheers, Gary.

jimmy styles
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Gary wrote:
I'm liking this very much, top job. :thumbs The paint/weathering of the brickwork is fantastic. 

This is what we have come to expect from you, I hope you do realise this now ! ;-);-)

Can I ask which make are the windows ?

Cheers, Gary.



The windows are from a eBay company called Icut really really good I have started using them in some commission work now. They are laser cut wood.

Well recommended

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Excellent modeling Jimmy it's coming together very nicely, can I ask how you did the 'Warehouse' signs as I need to do the same on my barrel makers building.

Ian

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Looks great and it's certainly big :thumbs

Covers most of the back scene Jimmy, so what's planned for the gaps?

Ed

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Ianvolvo46 wrote:
Excellent modeling Jimmy it's coming together very nicely, can I ask how you did the 'Warehouse' signs as I need to do the same on my barrel makers building.

Ian


I have found a easy way to do the signage but only if you happen to have the equipment.

I basically design the sign on the computer then cut a template on my vinyl cutter, I then stick the template to the building and dry brush over the top.


Hope this helps

jimmy styles
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Ed wrote:
Looks great and it's certainly big :thumbs

Covers most of the back scene Jimmy, so what's planned for the gaps?

Ed



The large gap to the right of the warehouse will be a entrance to the harbour with a wall gates and a military barrier. Hopefully this will look good

Ed
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jimmy styles wrote: Ed wrote:
Looks great and it's certainly big :thumbs

Covers most of the back scene Jimmy, so what's planned for the gaps?

Ed



The large gap to the right of the warehouse will be a entrance to the harbour with a wall gates and a military barrier. Hopefully this will look good

I'm sure it will, sounds great.


Ed

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As the weather today decided not to ran, i thought that it would be a good idea to move the layout into the garden before i made a start on the granite sets to see how it looked in natural light.

as i have been building in a dark garage with nothing but poor lighting it was nice to see the layout so far in natural daylight.

here are some pictures, what do you guys think???













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I think that it's fantastic, Jim.

Inspiration for my own plank.  :thumbs

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Looking really good, once again the warehouse is very impressive. Eagerly awaiting more now.

jimmy styles
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so i decided that i need three buffer stops on the harbour.

again to the internet as i wanted something that looked right, a bit of research showed that the buffer stops on harbours were a bit different to those used on mainline lines.

they appeared more bodged together.

i found some pictures that I cannot post due to copyright.

so i firstly tried to change a peco plastic one, that did not go well.

so next up i thought that using old rail may work, but how could i bend this??



amazingly this worked well and i didnt even set light to the house.





i continued and this was the result, i'm quite happy with it and just have two more to do. just need to weather them now.







Last edited on Fri Nov 13th, 2015 01:10 pm by jimmy styles

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so the last two days i have been working on the granite sets as i have a very large area to cover (the entire layout)

i have chosen to use das air dry clay. i then hand scribe each block.



i got really bored of hand scribing these and had to think of a way to make it quicker, i decided first that i needed a small rolling pin. i had a rummage in the garage and found a old broom handle, perfect i cut a section of the end.



then how could i make the scribing quicker, so we made a stamp where one end can be used for the large areas and the other end used for the smaller areas.



so then i continued until i run out of das clay.



i still have a large area to cover but once weathered and painted should look really good.


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A fine example in using what is readily at hand and using ones initiative. Just what the hobby brings out in us bitten by the bug. I've plenty of bits at hand just need to find some initiative now, sure I've got some in the shed somewhere.
Well done Jimmy.

jimmy styles
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Barneybuffer wrote:
A fine example in using what is readily at hand and using ones initiative. Just what the hobby brings out in us bitten by the bug. I've plenty of bits at hand just need to find some initiative now, sure I've got some in the shed somewhere.
Well done Jimmy.



Thank you barney, I am trying to keep costs as low as possible but still make a layout that makes just one person say "wow" or "I like that"

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I can assure you Jimmy that there won't be a single person saying "Wow" or, "I like that...". There will be hordes of people saying, "Wow, I love this layout..."

The buffer stop turned out a treat. Great work on those sets and a good use of brain power !  Love your work. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

jimmy styles
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so i have been working hard at my granite sets but very quickly getting fed up. here are some pictures as to where i am up to with it







my attention was drawn to a couple of gaps and what could i fill them with the first gap is seen below



i decided that the best way to fill this gap was with a wall with barbed wire along the top, i think this works and ties in the WWII theme



the next was to tackle the entrance to the harbour, i decided a wall and a gate, i have started on a watchmans hut which can be seen in the photo. i will build a full military checkpoint here with barrier. again i think that the barbed wire works well.




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Great work, those sets must be tedious, but they do look effective. is that the warhammer 40k barb wire? looks similar.

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new04db wrote:
Great work, those sets must be tedious, but they do look effective. is that the warhammer 40k barb wire? looks similar.

No I wish I knew they made barbed wire. As I get a friend to make it by bending thin gauge wire around slightly thicker gauge wire then hand coiling it around various diameter rods

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jimmy styles wrote: ........................................................................................................As I get a friend to make it by bending thin gauge wire around slightly thicker gauge wire then hand coiling it around various diameter rods
And he's still your friend .........????:shock::shock::shock::shock:

The setts do look good Jimmy - I assume for the pressings, you do it whilst it's still soft but for hand scribing, did you let it dry first ?

p.s.  Friend or no friend, the barbed swire does look good.  :thumbs

jimmy styles
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Petermac wrote:
jimmy styles wrote: ........................................................................................................As I get a friend to make it by bending thin gauge wire around slightly thicker gauge wire then hand coiling it around various diameter rods
And he's still your friend .........????:shock::shock::shock::shock:

The setts do look good Jimmy - I assume for the pressings, you do it whilst it's still soft but for hand scribing, did you let it dry first ?

p.s.  Friend or no friend, the barbed swire does look good.  :thumbs


Yes I press each stone while the clay is soft but not to soft. I basically have to do it in sections. As I have about twenty mins to press the setts. That way I still have time to redo if I make a mistake.

I have had to stop at the mo as the garage is to cold for the clay to dry and I have been evicted from the dinning room until after Christmas.

I think they really look effective.

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jimmy styles wrote: new04db wrote:
Great work, those sets must be tedious, but they do look effective. is that the warhammer 40k barb wire? looks similar.

No I wish I knew they made barbed wire. As I get a friend to make it by bending thin gauge wire around slightly thicker gauge wire then hand coiling it around various diameter rods

I have just had a quick look, but it appears that they stopped making it, I used it previously on a D-Day diorama, possibly 2006/7

jimmy styles
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new04db wrote:
jimmy styles wrote: new04db wrote:
Great work, those sets must be tedious, but they do look effective. is that the warhammer 40k barb wire? looks similar.

No I wish I knew they made barbed wire. As I get a friend to make it by bending thin gauge wire around slightly thicker gauge wire then hand coiling it around various diameter rods

I have just had a quick look, but it appears that they stopped making it, I used it previously on a D-Day diorama, possibly 2006/7



In that case I won't feel guilty that these where hand made ha ha ha

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Hi Jimmy and co,,

I just found Javis 4mm coiled barbed wire for an amazingly cheap £1.65 http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/oo-barbed-wire-roll.html

. . . or £20.00 for the same thing from Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Javis-Coiled-Barbed-Wire/dp/B00I5JN92E Have they gone mad? Well at least you get free delivery, haha!

Bill :)

 

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Looks like the Amazon listing is for 12 pieces which works out at 20p more for the dozen. 

I like the sets, very impressive, could I make a suggestion? I reckon they would look even better if you grouted them after drying.

Keep up the good work! Pete.

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Thank you, when I paint and weather the stones they will have a kinda brownish coloured grout between each stone (with a bit of luck)

The barbed wire on Amazon is what my mate based his on.

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ok so not much happened for a little while on my layout i was busy with christmas and building a commission building.

however to get myself moving i moved the layout to my dinning room so that i could finish the granite sets out of clay.

this did speed up the process for two reasons, firstly the central heated speeded up the dying time for the clay and secondly my wife constantly moaned that the layout was in the dining room!!
i have now finished all the clay work so next up is a massive amount of painting.



however here are some photos, what do you think?













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Love the sets, do you still have your sanity :lol:.

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yes i actually started to go mad and started to go cross eyed,

so my wife jumped in and as i layed the clay she did some of the scribing the setts.




so i cant take all the credit

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You've got one in a million there Jim.:doublethumb

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Spurno wrote:
You've got one in a million there Jim.:doublethumb


I'm not sure if she helped as a sign of slight interest or just to speed up getting the dinning room back.

Either way I can't ever change her!! Ha ha.

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She is an absolute star mate :thumbs.

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Lovely, Jim.  :thumbs

And the layout looks good, as well.  ;-)

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so today i decided to crack on with a bit more of my layout but with my wife at work, my son at school, i was left at home with my two year old daughter who hinders my progress as she likes nothing more than to sit with me helping.
any way first up i thought i would do some work on my travelling crane and yard crane



i actually got quite a lot of these built, and then couldn't resist puting it on the layout to see how it looked. i was really pleased.




next up i decided to to give the entire layout a base coat of grey to see how it may look.




i couldnt resist this photo showing the transition







even though this is just one coat it makes such a difference and looks so much better


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It does, Jim.

I like the cranes.  :thumbs

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The setts stand out really nicely in grey Jim :thumbs


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Looks good from here Jim.:thumbs

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Looking good already, This layouts going to be a 'killer' once its complete

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Wow... Very much worth the effort Jim.

Cheers

Marty

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Thank you all for the kind words it's that positive attitude that keeps me going.

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Looking good Jim, the buildings will bring it all together.

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Looking good Jim, cranes look a treat, surprising what a coat of paint makes to a layout. Good Job!


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Wow Jimmy, this has come a long way since the last time I looked in. Great work. :thumbs

Have you manage to convince your wife that the back garden needs paving...? :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Amazing the difference a lick of paint makes, if you give it a wash with thinned down black it will settle into the joints and highlight the setts.  

The crane looks just right on the dock side, proper job! Its all coming together now :thumbs.

Cheers, Pete.

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Yep, I'm with Pete on this one Jimmy, a terrific job with the sets (to you both) which will only get better as you wash and weather them in, as your sample panel a while back.

I'm sure it will all come together rather more quickly now, as more and more detail and interest brings the whole scenario to life.

Looking forward to it muchly,

Bill :)

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so i managed to find a couple of full days to work on the layout without any interuptions. my first challenge was to paint the granite sets on the layout.

this took a lot longer than i first anticipated.







i'm quite happy with the result of this, i think it may still need some more grime and muck espically between the rails.

however whilst doing this the postman delivered the backscene and i just couldnt resist fitting it.

the main backscene is a photographic heavy overcast sky by ID Scenes. i then used townscenes industrial  rooftops cut oyt and stuck on to give a bit of depth.





what do you think???



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Great job Jim.  Looks just great.:pathead

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Excellent, Jim.  :thumbs

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The granite sets look excellent, great job. :thumbs

The backscene suits the scene. I used the same backscene (Roofscape Gasworks BS2) on Industry Lane. ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Thank you for the kind words. I must say I am really pleased with how it's looking, and amazingly after a couple of days the backscene is still stuck quite well

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Looks great Jimmy.

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looks amazing Jim!
I love it!

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so i had a bit of a building day today.

to start off with i decided i wanted to get all the colours down the cobbles and weather around the tracks.


this then led onto deciding to paint the buffer stops that i had scratch built.


next up was to paint and weather the small yard crane.


finally was my fav bit of my days modelling, i had started my large travelling crane and i was determined to get it finished however i did not quite get there, i still have to glaze the crane and add the light on the front. however it has been fully painted and weathered.




please comment and let me know what you think?

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I think that it's excellent, Jim.  :thumbs

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Continues to look very good Jim.
My only thought would be that, from my observation of the travelling cranes that used to be here in the port of Fremantle, the travelling crane rails would have a bit of grime and grease around them.


cheers
Marty

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Thank you, I will add some more grime around the rails of the travelling crane, I want it to look good which is why I ask for feedback. That will be tonight's job!!

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so todays update,

first up was to add some ground point levers to the points, these are a etched part which was a little fiddly to put together but was worth the effort.




i decided that a good busy war time harbour would need quite a few soldiers, crates and oil cans. i purchased a large amount of resin soldiers all in different poses which should look good once painted. i have already painted about ten of them but as you can see from the below picture i have a few more to paint.

i also decided that i wanted to make my own crates and oil cans instead of buying them. luckily my father has a 3d printer, so a quick design on the computer resulted in a nice selection of crates and oil drums.
the below picture shows all these primed and ready to be painted.


and finally i couldnt resist doing this picture.

your layout needs you!!!

jimmy styles
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so my next challenge was to add a working light to the front of the crane,

i decided that this would be achieved with a micro LED. however my issue was how to power this LED the easy way would be to run wires down the crane legs and attach to the base board or even the rails that the crane sits on.

however this would mean that the cane would have to remain in place, and as this is to hopfully be a exhibition layout i wanted the crane to be removable and possible to place in different positions.

so i opted for a small coin cell battery and a switch, all this could be easily housed inside the crane. i opted for a pressure switch so that all i have to do is put the roof on and the light comes on. seems simple. oh how wrong i could be........... it all went really well until i came to put the roof on. the lightweight plastic was not heavy enough to hold the sprung switch down.
the way i fixed this was to add a considerable amount of lead to the inside of the roof. luckily you cant see the lead and it all seems to work really well.




Marty
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Very nice little light!
So.... not motorising the crane then? Sheesh... some people. :roll: :lol:


oh... yes... I want a 3D printer too!!!
Marty

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Marty wrote:
Very nice little light!
So.... not motorising the crane then? Sheesh... some people. :roll: :lol:


oh... yes... I want a 3D printer too!!!
Marty


I must say I was so close to motorising the crane but it was working out far to hard.

The 3D printer is good but it's not great a
On really fine details.

Jim

Marty
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jimmy styles wrote:


I must say I was so close to motorising the crane but it was working out far to hard.





Jim


hehe... thought you might have been.... something for the future maybe...


Marty

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Yes a real possibility, I like to get carried away with silly details. This week I will be mainly painting lots of soldiers 😁

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jimmy styles wrote: This week I will be mainly painting lots of soldiers 😁
Best of luck Jim.

Remember painting loads of Airfix Roman Legionaries in the 60s, drive me quite bonkers :mutley



Ed

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When the film Zulu came out back in the 60s Blue Peter, the kids tv show came out with a conversion for Airfix 1st world war german soldiers, cut the spike off the helmet to make it look like a Pith helmet, paint it white and paint the tunic red, hey presto! British colonial soldiers, I don,t remember Zulu warriors being made though, took hours to do and they looked great to my 12 year old eyes!


Pete.  

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so the next project for my layout was to attempt a light weight lighting rig.

i started by deciding how to attach the lighting rig to the layout, i decided to attach it to the legs of the layout.
i opted to use simple and cheap shelving. i had to cut up one bracket that was mounted to the legs, this was the upright just clips on.

then for the lighting rig i used high intensity LED strip lights. i went for warm white to give a nice colour.

then it was time to test.



this was taken with the garage light on (as you can see i still need to paint to the rig.)



whereas this was taken in complete darkness.
then i went a little mad taking picture's











So what do you think??


 

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Looks good to me, the layout is really starting to come together.

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Amazing Jim!It's really, really amazing!
great job, love it!

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Really starting to look the buisiness Jimmy and you've captured the atmosphere perfectly.

Will be following this with interest.

Cheers.

Allan.

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Thank you all for the kind comments.

I set myself three goals at the start of this build
1) to actually finish a layout. (Not far from finishing it)
2) to exhibit the layout. (Booked for its first one in September, hopefully the start of many more.)
3) get it published in a magazine (gotta work on this one.)

allan downes
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jimmy styles wrote: Thank you all for the kind comments.

I set myself three goals at the start of this build
1) to actually finish a layout. (Not far from finishing it)
2) to exhibit the layout. (Booked for its first one in September, hopefully the start of many more.)
3) get it published in a magazine (gotta work on this one.)


If you want it published in a magazine Jimmy maybe I can help. Just let me have a few photo's by Email then I'll send them on to which ever editor for consideration.

Allan.

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allan downes wrote:
jimmy styles wrote: Thank you all for the kind comments.

I set myself three goals at the start of this build
1) to actually finish a layout. (Not far from finishing it)
2) to exhibit the layout. (Booked for its first one in September, hopefully the start of many more.)
3) get it published in a magazine (gotta work on this one.)


If you want it published in a magazine Jimmy maybe I can help. Just let me have a few photo's by Email then I'll send them on to which ever editor for consideration.

Allan.


That would be cracking Allan, in a few weeks once I have completed the soldiers I will send you some pictures. As that would be great.

James

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It works, Jim.  :thumbs

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Simple and strong construction and the bright light (but not overbright) brings out the superb craftsmanship and attention to detail.


Just make sure that the crew of the flail tank:
a) don't engage the clutch on the flail and
b) turn away from that point lever before they run it over....


:thumbs:


Marty

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Didn't realise you were building this as a exhibition layout Jim.

Well done, I think it will do very well :thumbs

How far have you actually got with painting the soldiers and has it driven you totally bonkers yet :mutley



Ed

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I have now almost painted about thirty soldiers it has driven me completely mad and taken ages as o don't like just one colour I like to paint highlights etc.

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jimmy styles wrote: I have now almost painted about thirty soldiers it has driven me completely mad and taken ages as o don't like just one colour I like to paint highlights etc.
Keep going Jim, you'll get there :thumbs


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Great layout, excellent lighting and brilliant modelling! well done that man :thumbs:thumbs.

Pete.  

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so its taken quite a long time and i have gone very cross eyed and at times thought about throwing these out the window however finally finished my army of soldiers for the layout.

i am actually quite happy with how they have turned out and think they will look really good.









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They do look good Jim.  Looking forward to seeing those on the layout.

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Excellent, Jim. 


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Well deserved ellie fant  :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed

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They bring back some memories Jimmy - itchy ill fitting BD ( Battle Dress ) Bolt action Lee Enfield that hit everything other than what you were aiming at. And my RSM who hated me more than he did the Germans ! 

Nice work all the same Jimmy - as expected.

Allan.

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thank you for the kind comments im looking forward to sharing some photos of the soldiers in situation once i get time to position them

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so i have been doing some more on the layout today,

firstly i have painted the lighting rig, i decided to paint it so that it fitted in with theme of the layout.




then i spent a long time positioning all the soldiers and crates, this actually took longer than i thought.







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I tried to see the lighting rig, but it must be camouflaged.  :lol:

This layout will do well at shows.  :thumbs

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MaxSouthOz wrote:
I tried to see the lighting rig, but it must be camouflaged.  :lol:

This layout will do well at shows.  :thumbs


Ha ha I keep walking into it!!

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so operation abyss is actually nearing completion after almost two years of my life. i would like to share some pictures with you guys of how it looks. there is still some bits to do, and i'm sure i will continue to add to the rolling stock but at this moment as far as i'm concerned it is almost finished.

please remember this is not a real location and not historically accurate, i designed it to be a what could of been and to inspire some imagination.































i know there are a lot of pictures but has the last two years been worth it??

i will continue to update as i will no doubt add bits and change bits.

 

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Lovely stuff Jimmy .  very well done.:thumbs

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Very believable Jimmy, superbly crafted, worth every day of two years.

So, how about some photo's of the model ?

Cheers and well done.

Allan.

BTW. Who's the gardner ? Let me guess, not you !

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Nice job Jimmy ;-);-);-)

Phil

Last edited on Sat Mar 26th, 2016 11:42 am by Phil.c

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Fantastic, well done mate! so, whats next? :mutley, can,t have you resting on your laurels :mrgreen:.

Pete. 

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Still got a few little bits to do on this....... However I do have a potential two other baseboards

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Haha, knew it! can,t keep a good man down :thumbs:thumbs.


Pete.

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Super job Jimmy........there are so many features to admire.....the warehouse back scene....the track laid into the setts and all the little cameos combine together to make a very authentic setting......well done:thumbs

Best Wishes 

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Excellent, Jimmy.!


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i hope the next project will be quicker as my little girl starts school next year so i will have a lot more spare time

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hmmm,
Parent teacher meetings, School sports days, Christmas plays, other events,  comforting the upset 'cos "Jimmy did this"

jimmy styles
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So i have a photoshoot booked in on the 1st July which is a little scary as i still seem to have a lot to achieve in what seems to be a short length of time. everything that i need to do is all little things but things that will really make the layout.

So first up was to put the layouts name on the overhead lighting rig, but i wanted it to look War'ish. luckily i have access to a vinyl cutter. so after a little playing on the computer, the look i wanted was achieved.



so next up was some testing (playing trains.) it was a good job i did this as i discovered some electrical gremlins. at first i thought that it may be a poor connection to the track feeds, i'm pleased that it wasn't as all the track feeds are buried under the cobbles.
i found that the the poor connection was coming from the connector blocks i had used to connect all the track feeds. i quickly got angry and pulled out all the connection blocks. i intended to solder all the joints. if i had thought about it i ould have done a couple at a time instead of basically taking all wiring back to the start.   



next up was a control panel that would distribute the power to the building lights and the over head lighting rig. this was made from a old piece of aluminum cut to size with input and output feeds and push to make switches one for building lights and one for the overhead lighting rig so that i can control these separately.





next up was a quick test of the building lights......



now for my least update, i decided that i wanted to place my x-craft sub on a low loader being delivered or taken away from the harbour, this vehicle would be the only royal navy blue vehicle on the layout. i decided to use the airfix RAF recovery set as my base. however the trailer in the kit is not long enough and only one axle. so first up i lengthened the trailer and built a rear wheel well to take two twin axles. the tractor until designed to go with this trailer is also on the weedy side however the kit comes with a big mother of tractor units but is designed to take a crane on the back. i am of course now modifying this to match. this is where i am at so far.



so what are your comments

 


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It's big Jim :shock:


Isn't it going to take up rather a large space on the layout?


Ed

Last edited on Tue May 31st, 2016 06:39 pm by Ed

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Spot on Jim.I should pop in to see you next time i'm up at my dad's in Ryhall plus my aunt lives in Bourne.

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There happens to be a nice place for it to sit just. I had to include the x-craft sub as my grandfather is one of the last surviving crew members and kits of them are so rare I got this from the Czech Republic.

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Spurno wrote:
Spot on Jim.I should pop in to see you next time i'm up at my dad's in Ryhall plus my aunt lives in Bourne.


Any time kettle is always on

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jimmy styles wrote: There happens to be a nice place for it to sit just. I had to include the x-craft sub as my grandfather is one of the last surviving crew members and kits of them are so rare I got this from the Czech Republic.
Can't be a better reason than that :thumbs


Ed

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The ultimate trailer boat, Jim.  :thumbs

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Wow, now that is a cracking model, looking forward to the finished article :thumbs.

Cheers, Pete. 

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Absolutely brilliant work, as a bit of a WWII fanatic + my hobby of railways, this layout has been a feast for the eyes.

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new04db wrote:
Absolutely brilliant work, as a bit of a WWII fanatic + my hobby of railways, this layout has been a feast for the eyes.


Thank you for the kind comments, I know it's not historically accurate but it was built to please and it does that (well for me anyway)

The light at the end of the tunnel is near.

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jimmy styles wrote: new04db wrote



Thank you for the kind comments, I know it's not historically accurate but it was built to please and it does that (well for me anyway)

That's the main thing Jimmy ;-)

Phil

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so with my completion date coming up fast i have been determined to complete a few things.

first up on the agenda was the lorry and sub.

so basically for this i took the Airfix RAF recovery kit and decided that it needed some modification.

the standard kit is designed with a max working load of three ton. now as the real x-craft sub has a dry weight of just shy of 30ton the trailer and cab needed some modification.

the first thing i did was increase the length of the trailer and change it from a single wheel single axle to a twin wheel twin axle. this would increase the max weight if it was real. the next thing was the cab of the lorry is also not man enough to pull that kind of weight. however in the kit is a much bigger cab unit deigned to have a crane on the rear. so i set about changing this to be attached to the trailer.






next up was to build some wooden supports to rest the sub on for transport. i looked on the web and found that when these where transported they basically built wooden supports. i built these out of balsa wood.

however next came the biggest problem. my sub was finished and there is not a lot of information on the x-craft. however my grandfather served on the x-craft. he then told me that i had painted it the wrong colour. the on he served on X-21 was black.

argh i screamed, i thought i could leave it but this would be no good so a repaint had to be done.





now its finished i think it was so worth all the work.

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it was worth the effort it looks brill
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Excellent, Jimmy.  :thumbs

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so the next little challenge.

left over from my RAF recover kit that i bashed into my sub transport was a RAF Motorcycle.
i decided that this was far to good to throw away and ignore so i set about painting it into a army motorcycle.
i'm actually quite pleased with how it turned out.





one i had finished this i set about some other bits that i needed to finish, first up was to build a gangway for the torpedo boat and add the ropes to tie the ship to the harbour.

i built the gangway out of plastic card, cut down pins and cotton.





and finally i thought that i needed some sort of material around the layout to hide the legs. i looked at different layouts at shows and love how people do this, however like everything else on this layout i wanted it to be a little different.

then it hit me camo netting, this will hide my legs and will work well with my theme.


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perfect solution,sets the scene
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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so with the dead line looming i have made a last attempt to get another piece of rolling stock completed.
i started off with a plastic kit containing three, yes three half track trucks made by a company called "the plastic solider company" this is the first kit i have built from this company and i must say wow!! i will buy some more.



i decided that one of them would contain the soliders and the other two would be mounted to a flat wagon.



so this is the line up, i dont normally like building the same kit more than once so i had a little production line going.

however i didnt want the two on the flat wagon to have the backs opened up so i had to try to make a tarpulin to go over the top.
i have never modeled this before. i first tried scrunching up a piece of cheap paper to see if that would work however it always looked like i had put a bit of paper on the top and didnt look real. i started to get a bit fed up. then i tried the way that i used, which i think worked.
i basically got cheap toilet paper the stuff with no pattern on and hurts if you use it for what its intended. however if you screw it up place in the position you require, then soak in diluted acylic paint, it works it takes shape it stays in place and i think looks real.



however time was starting to run out and the man below either looks concerned at the thought of going to war or is pulling the same concerned face that i was.



i quickly pulled by finger out and completed the half track to go on the dock side.





next up was to mount the other two onto the flat wagon, weather everything and change the couplings.



then i couldnt resist placing it on the layout.

now that the layout is basically complete roll on my professional photos i cant wait to see what he takes.





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Fantastic, Jim.  It just gets better and better!

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Those half tracks are very nicely weathered and the tarpaulins are very effective too. Nice layout.

Bob

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brill job,bet those half tracks get their piccy taken,,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Beautiful modelling, one minor thing the chains securing the Halftracks should be crossed  as on this tank, hopefully you can see them being inspected.

Last edited on Tue Jun 28th, 2016 11:53 am by The Q

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The Q wrote:
Beautiful modelling, one minor thing the chains securing the Halftracks should be crossed  as on this tank, hopefully you can see them being inspected.

I noticed that after I had finished it, I then tried to change it but the chains that I used on this one are not as fine as other chains I have used and just looked awful crossed.

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Thank you all for your kind comments

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so i moved the layout into the lounge in order to prepare it for my photo shoot, and my children decided that they wanted to play trains, but they wanted to play with their train, i'm not sure Thomas goes with the theme but they had fun.



however here it is, in all of its glory!!



so now the amazing Chris Nevard has taken the photos for Model Rail i would say that its finished!!!!

but is a layout ever really finished??







i cannot wait to see the photos and see my layout in print.

the only thing left is to open her up to exhibitions. (when i work out how.)

she will be at her first exhibition in September in Peterborough as part of the http://www.thelittlelayoutcompany.co.uk show at Werrington.

when i started this layout i set myself two goals 1.to get it featured in a magazine and 2.exhibit the layout.
both of these goals are going to be achieved and in the first layout i have ever finished!

i'm happy with what i have achieved in the last two years. a labour of love.

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Let's know when you're published.

Marty
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Bravo.

Nice when a plan comes together.

Looking forward to Chris's photos too.

cheers

Marty

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MaxSouthOz wrote:


Let's know when you're published.


Will do

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Just had a visit from Spurno (Alan) it was nice to meet him and great opportunity to show off my layout.

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so today i achieved one of my goals when i started this layout just over two years ago. i exhibited operation abyss at http://www.thelittlelayoutcompany.co.uk exhibition in peterborough.

the started off good although i had to play a massive game of jenga to get it all in my car.



once at the venue it was actually amazingly fast to set up.





i am pleased to report that the layout throughout the end was completely faultless, the only issues was operator issues (wrong point direction and me being clumsey and knocking a wagon off the layout -nothing super glue cant fix.)

i was pleased with the amount of positive comments i received.

i hope this was the first of many exhibitions.

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Congratulations, Jim.  :cheers

It would have been a highlight for the patrons.   :cool wink

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Well done Jim,a happy ending to all your hard work.

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Looks great Jim, congratulations  :doublethumb



Ed

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looking forward to the photo`s hope they publish soon
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
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I have been told that I will have a copy of the finished photos by early next week, then I just Gotta wait to find out what month it's going to be published I can't wait!!

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Well done, Jimmy!




He's been quietly watchin'.....

Bisto

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Congratulations Jim,a Bisto certificate,they don't come much better than that.

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so i have now attended and exhibited Operation Abyss at her first exhibition, for the http://www.thelittlelayoutcompany.co.uk in Werrington Peterborough.

so you would think that i would have planned the layout to fit in my car before building it......... well i have when i orignally built the base board i checked it fitted into my car, it fitted like a glove.

however i then added a 15inch back scene, which i forgot about.

so the morning of the exhibition i suddenly realized my mistake luckily it all fitted but was like a massive game of Tetris.



this was the fist time that i had to take her apart. and amazingly the entire layout went together at the venue in under ten mins and was running in that time as well.



i am so happy to announce that the layout never missed a beat throughout the entire show.

the only mishap was that i knocked a wagon off the layout!! however this has now been fixed.

the layout was really well received and i got some great comments.
it was a perfect exhibition for the first outing as it was small and friendly.

a couple of things that i now need to think about was a set shunting procedure for shows.
i am now in the process of putting together a detail sheet to send to exhibition managers.

i have also received the professional photos which look great and i will share them with you once they have been published.

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Glad it went well for you Jim.Must be a nice feeling to get the first one under your belt. :doublethumb

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Spurno wrote: Glad it went well for you Jim.Must be a nice feeling to get the first one under your belt. :doublethumb

it was a very proud moment to see people enjoying my layout, and i kept looking at it thinking that is two years of hard work. i dont think i could ever part with it being the first layout i have ever actually finished.

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Well done, Jim.  :thumbs

I thought like that - until someone offered me serious money.  :lol:

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so as we all know a layout is never finished, and mine is no exception.
i decided that no harbour layout is complete unless it has some pesky seagull's.

so i had the honour of helping http://www.thelittlelayoutcompany.co.uk with their exhibition layout at peterborough model railway show. luckily Langley models where also at the same show. so i sneaked off and picked up some unpainted seagulls.



i could of purchased these pre painted however i like to paint everything to give it my own touch.




so after a afternoon of painting i was happy with how they looked. next up was to position all nine on the layout.







so if you see me at a show, see if you can spot all nine.

jimmy styles
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it was really exciting to see this on the model rail facebook page.

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Ok still awaiting news on when my article will be published, however operation abyss has now been booked for Spalding model railway show in Nov 2017 and warley nec show in Nov 2019 just gotta find some shows for it in 2018.

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Well done,om your first show, hopefully I'll see you at Spalding, It's one of my favourite shows.

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Well done with being invited to all them shows Jim but especially Warley. You must be pleased with that.

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Yes I'm really like leased with going to the NEC just gotta wait until 2019 which is the only down side although gives me a couple of years to tweak and get some more shows in.

I am also just about to start a new project which I am going to start a new thread about.

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I suggest your new project be called "leased" it seems to be easier for your automatic spell checker!!;-)

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As Lennon said, 'Give peas a chance' :)

Great news Jimmy, you're going to be busy!

Bill

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The Q wrote: I suggest your new project be called "leased" it seems to be easier for your automatic spell checker!!;-)

Ha ha always read your post before pressing submit 

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What brick sheet did you use for the warehouse Jimmy?

Phil

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It's a plastic sheet from finecast scenics my friend ordered me it He owns http://www.thelittlelayoutcompany.co.uk if you email him I'm sure he will have it in stock

jimmy styles
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good news, on the 17th January, i am being interviewed for model rail mag and taking the layout to my mates model railway shop in market deeping Lincolnshire for the day, as the guys from model rail want to see it.

then the layout will be in Aprils mag.

Phil.c
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Good news Jimmy, I expect Chris Nevard will take the pictures, he's a nice guy, he took pics of my Pen y bryn when it was featured in the magazine a couple of years ago.
Phil

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Phil.c wrote: Good news Jimmy, I expect Chris Nevard will take the pictures, he's a nice guy, he took pics of my Pen y bryn when it was featured in the magazine a couple of years ago.
Phil

Chris Nevard came to my house a few months ago and took all the photos which i have and are amazing. he is a awesome bloke and a amazing photographer.  i have just been waiting to get the actual interview done. getting so excited now.

jimmy styles
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people always say that a layout is never finished but i though that operation abyss was.........

clearly not as i decided that she needed sandbags, but i decided to make them out of das clay, as with everything else on this layout it had to be scratch built.





i then treated myself to an airbrush, which quickly got out of hand and i decided to weather everything on operation abyss.







i have never airbrushed anything in my life so i hope you like what i have done.

MaxSouthOz
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I really do like it, Jimmy.  :thumbs

A layout is never really finished; only abandoned.

Spurno
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You should see it in the flesh Max,it's even better. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

jimmy styles
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Spurno wrote: You should see it in the flesh Max,it's even better. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Thank you I'm really happy with it. 

Barneybuffer
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Excellent work Jimmy, Having filled many a sandbag in my younger soldiering days, I can see you've done a fine job around the emplacement at the end of the line.

jimmy styles
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so i can confirm that a layout is never finished.......

i found a hornby WD tanker at a exhibition and i couldnt resist buying it, however it obviously needed weathering.

so here it is freshly weathered and looking the part.








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I happened to be in the local newsagent yesterday and they had the August issue of Model Rail with the article about Operation Abyss.

Great article and brilliant pictures, well done again Jim  :doublethumb




Ed


jimmy styles
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My operation abyss will be attending spalding model railway exhibition in november, this is a great show and hopfully you will be able to come along and say hi. 









Campaman
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Hoping to make it to Spalding this year, so may see you there, assume you wear shoes at the exhibition though :mutley

jimmy styles
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Campaman wrote: Hoping to make it to Spalding this year, so may see you there, assume you wear shoes at the exhibition though :mutley

Yep will have shoes on but socks is the way forward 

sparky
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The socks are OK they just need weathering ;-)

The Q
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If the weather at Spalding is as bad as last year wellies might be more appropriate:lol:, (for getting the layout into the hall).



See you there on the Saturday



The Q

PS
The junction from the A17 to the A151 to Spalding, coming from the south ie Peppermint Junction, is being rebuilt. The completion date is not till early 2018, The current plans on the county website, show the junction will be open for use during the show, but NOT from the north.
The official Diversion is from the A16 to Spalding.
https://www.lincolnshire.gov.uk/news/peppermint-junction-update-work-continues-on-new-roundabout-and-land-for-the-food-enterprise-zone/131607.article


Last edited on Tue Oct 31st, 2017 08:12 am by The Q

The Q
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I hope you've recovered from Spalding, I enjoyed seeing your layout for real and meeting you...

jimmy styles
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Spalding was a great show and my layout worked all weekend without any real issues which was great. 
Also I came second in the people’s choice awards for best in show. Which I’m happy with as the layouts where fantastic. 

Spurno
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Congratulations Jimmy,after seeing it in the flesh i'm not surprised you won a prize. :doublethumb

Marty
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This....


VBG, Tick, Elephant stamp, Bravo and such...

Was this what was in your mind’s eye when you started planning the layout ?

Marty

jimmy styles
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Marty wrote: This....


VBG, Tick, Elephant stamp, Bravo and such...

Was this what was in your mind’s eye when you started planning the layout ?

Marty


To be honest the layout turned out how I pictured it in my head just a lot lot better 

Marty
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:thumbs


                 

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