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Operation Abyss - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Jan 30th, 2015 01:54 am
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Sol
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jimmy styles wrote: three short circuits where the wheel has just tapped the switch blade causing a short.



Not only will the modifications fix the short circuits but I would look closely at the back to backs of the wheels, I suspect they are closer than should be

Have a look at this http://www.doubleogauge.com/standards/commercialwheels.htm



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 Posted: Fri Jan 30th, 2015 07:25 am
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jimmy styles
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Yes I have thought about the bb measurements and having access to a metal laith I have decided to build my own gauge. I will post some pictures once completed.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2015 01:37 pm
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jimmy styles
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ok i am still plodding along slowly with my project but the track is still not laid which is now starting to bug me. however i have been at work everyday for the last nine days and the two days i have off i have the children as my wife is at work so finding time is a little hard at the mo.

however i have now modified all the points (all four of them) so not many really, i found my soldering is a little poor but it seems to work.



i will cut the tie bar down as well, although as all my track work will be sunk into paving it wont show anyway.

i have also built my midget submarine X-craft, this was a resin kit and and i have never worked in resin this was a quick learning curve.



i have no idea where to put this on the layout, but as this is where my grandad started his navy career i thought it was best to include it. i was thinking of possibly having it on some sort of dolly being moved by a tractor?? any ideas??

i have also built another cracking airfix kit to have in the yard with all the other military vehicles.



i'm really quite happy with how this little monster turned out.

now what i really need some advice on is my buildings.

i have always modelled in wills embossed plastic card but in corse stone,

now my questions that i need your help on is as follows,

1) do i build my buildings out of brick or dressed stone?? which would look better?? for a WWII dockside.
2) if i use brick how do i paint it as i have never painted brick??

i have had a play around with painting brick and i'm not sure how it looks what do you think??



i used two different effects on this the far right is more bold where as the left is lighter which looks more real if at all?



now i know this is not brick its stone put it has been painted as if it was brick but does this look right (pretend its brick.)

how do you paint brick?? any ideas please.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2015 11:05 pm
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Gary
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Hi Jimmy,

The painted brick on the right and the stone below looks like what you should be aiming for. Having some variation in colour is the right thing in my opinion. Dry brush technique is the way to go when painting stone/brick work, followed by a wash between the bricks to highlight the mortar. I have seen this video of the Hornby washes and they do look quite easy to use.

See here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCPlzt3uG6Y

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2015 07:10 am
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jimmy styles
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Thanks for that I think that is the way forward just not sure if stone buildings would look quite right. I'm still a long way off the buildings but I do like to start planning

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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2015 12:43 am
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Hi Jimmy, I think you should put the sub like you say, being move on a dolly or something! I think that'd be cool. or you could periodically switch it out with the boat. :)



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 Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2015 02:26 pm
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jimmy styles
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so i have finally pulled my finger out and got around to track laying.

i basically decided that i wanted all the track to be down in one day, so finally not working and not looking after my children the day was set.

i packed my wife and children off to the inlaws for the day and took over our dining room.

i decided that i needed to call in reinforcements so i got my dad to help.



my dad working hard.



so finally in took most of the day however this is where i got to.

i now have the following to do,

1) all the droppers and the electrical bus to complete.
2) piano wire to install for the point contro.
3) work out some way of mounting the switches to control the piano wire and the electric for the frogs as i'm using electrofrog points.

once that is complete i can test all the track extensively before starting on the scenic section (basically play trains.)

i have used all peco code 100 track for the simple reasons that it works and works well. i dont need to worry about the sleepers or the height of the rail looking unrealistic as nearly all of it will be hidden under the paving of the dockside.

i'm pretty happy with it so far, as its actually looking like a railway.


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 Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2015 05:47 pm
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mattc6911
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Coming along nicely :)

Cheers


Matt

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 Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2015 10:32 pm
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toto
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Hi Jimmy,

It all looks very neat. If you forget about the sector plate, I reckon you have about 14 sets of track feeds to do. That's not to bad. An hour or so would see them done.

I tend to solder mine before I lay the track but it's everyone to their own I suppose. The combination of piano wire to switch points and somehow change polarity to the frog could be a challenge.
I'm sure someone will have the answer though.

I'll look forward not only to the trains and scenics but also the militarisation of the layout as I like that theme.

Cheers for now

Toto.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2015 10:53 pm
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Marty
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That is a huge step forward Jimmy, now you have a railway!

Sounds like it was a good father and son day too.

Cheers


Marty



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 Posted: Fri Mar 13th, 2015 05:06 am
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Gary
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Great to see some track down. :thumbs You must be happy with that.. ;-)

As for frog polarity switching, if you are using 'wire in tube' method, here is a diagram I drew up, explaining the way the points are switched as well as the polarity. I am using this method on Industry Lane.


Here is a pc of the switches I use :



These can be purchased from Maplins : http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/double-pole-sub-miniature-fh35q

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 13th, 2015 07:10 am
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jimmy styles
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Gary that is how I intend to do it but I will have the piano wire under the board.

Toto all the droppers where connected to the track while we where laying them I just gotta attack all the wires hanging under the board now.

James

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 Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2015 06:02 pm
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jimmy styles
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ok i have been busy in the garden, decorating, coping with my children and working over the last few weeks so not to much has gone on with my layout, however i did spend some time attaching the back scene. this is 3mm Ply but does require a little more bracing to stop any flex.

i have painted the backscene blue however this is just a base coat as a photographic back scene will be attached. it is 15inches tall.





as you can see i have a few droppers to connect, also the wires for the frog polarity. however before i make a start on wiring i need to connect all the piano wire to the switches for the point control. hopfully it wont be long until i can test some loco's (play trains.)



also a few more wagons have had kadee couplings fitted and fitted nice and close, they look great.

i have been converting some rolling stock which i will share with you if what i am attempting works.

i am getting there just slowly

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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 08:35 am
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jimmy styles
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so i have decided that the first bit of scenery is going to be the harbor, i have started with the ramp and the walling and i'm quite happy with how this has turned out. i used balsa strip wood for the posts and roughed them up a bit. i used wills plastikard for the stone work.

i did a lot of research in the posts at various harbors and found that they are not evenly spaced just seem to be placed as and when, so i have done the same, which has sent my OCD through the roof :lol:

my question is for your advice and help is how do i make realistic looking sea??? it needs to be a little rough as its clearly not a pond.

any help please!!



the base removed from the layout so i can work on it easier.



i could not resist placing the motor torpedo boat (the kit that started the idea for this layout) in place to see what it looked like.

help and advice please

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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 11:58 am
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Campaman
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I plan on having a harbour on my layout also, the baseborad is cut ready with the dropped section, my thoughts are that I would use a thin layer of filler to make a wobbly surface then paint using greeny blues and greeny browns, followed by either multiple coats of PVA or Gloss varnish.

I need to do some experiments first though, or you can do them and I can just copy your method...

:mutley



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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 12:28 pm
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Ianvolvo46
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I achieved this by adding ballast underneath the initial layer of yacht varnish and applying some layers before the previous one had hardened thoroughly, but experimentation is definitely the right way to go ....good luck

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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 02:01 pm
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jimmy styles
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Campaman wrote:
I plan on having a harbour on my layout also, the baseborad is cut ready with the dropped section, my thoughts are that I would use a thin layer of filler to make a wobbly surface then paint using greeny blues and greeny browns, followed by either multiple coats of PVA or Gloss varnish.

I need to do some experiments first though, or you can do them and I can just copy your method...

:mutley


I have just cut a bit of ply and added a thin layer of filler, it's not easy to make it look like a sea surface. I will paint it in a bit and post the outcome!!

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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 02:16 pm
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Campaman
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From my own research I think part of the process in getting a ripple or wave effect is to work the PVA or Varnish once it becomes tacky but before its too dry to work with.



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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 07:09 pm
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Phil.c
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One of the best and easiest way to add Polyfilla is with an artists palett knife but not the type where the blade is in line with the handle.

Phil



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 Posted: Thu May 14th, 2015 07:18 pm
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jimmy styles
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Phil.c wrote:
One of the best and easiest way to add Polyfilla is with an artists palett knife but not the type where the blade is in line with the handle.

Phil


I'm not sure what sort that is can you post a picture??

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