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Operation Abyss - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 05:13 pm
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jimmy styles
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Petermac wrote:
Depending on what flux you're using Jimmy, don't forget to wash the soldered joint thoroughly to avoid any future corrosion. :thumbs (Don't ask how I know you should do that ................:oops::oops:)


Ok now I'm worried, how do I wash the joint and what with?? Do I wash the joint before I solder or after??

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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 09:36 pm
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paul_l
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Hi

With DCC you are better to keep the loco's powered all the time, so to avoid shorts, have the bolts isolated, or even use a plastic / nylon pins as bolts.

For cleaning flux off the rails and PCB, acetone will work fine - keep it clear of the plastic tho'. Cheap source of acetone - nail varnish remover, but avoid the ones with skin care - normally the cheaper the better ;-). Use a cotton swap or make up removal pads, the brave will pinch the bosses stash, the meek will put up with the looks from other women when going through the make up section of Tesco's buying nail varnish remover, cotton balls, eye shadow applicators and make up foam pads. Word of warning, they lock up the make up section at night, so it has to be done during normal hours:brickwall.

Paul



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 06:40 am
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Gary
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paul_l wrote:  Word of warning, they lock up the make up section at night, so it has to be done during normal hours:brickwall.

Paul


Do the folk of Dundee have a problem with cross dressers ??  :mutley:mutley

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 06:56 am
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jimmy styles
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Discovered the wife's nail varnish remover!!!! It's cheap and perfect she will never know.........

I photographed where it lives so that I can put it and and the cotton buds back exactly where they should be. (the perfect crime)

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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 04:12 pm
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jimmy styles
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so there is no stopping me now!!!!

first track down, first PCB soldered to the rails. just waiting for the glue to dry then i will be able to test.

the soldering is not pretty but it seems to work, (im still learning, this soldering lark is still new to me.)


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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 04:29 pm
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60019Bittern
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The secret with the soldering lark is cleanliness of the materials to be soldered and don't let the iron dwell too long. By the way, if you haven't already done so then don't forget to put an insulating gap on the pcb sleepers otherwise it will all short out.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 08:14 pm
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paul_l
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Hi Gary

Its more the look from SWMBO, when she goes for make up and I know where all the stuff is :mutley, try explaining that one away.

About time they made a rust brown, soot grey and brake dust coluored power puffs - Ive looked and there not close enough, the brushes are goog tho' ;-).

Jimmy, looks clean from here

Paul



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 09:31 pm
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Petermac
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jimmy styles wrote: I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.
Hopefully, not to help with power flow Jimmy ...........:shock::shock::shock::shock:

Not only ought you to ensure every piece of track is fed from the bus via a dropper, but any possibility of arcing via the sliding power connection from the rod/tube would probably play havoc with the decoders .................:roll::roll::roll::roll:



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 10:00 pm
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jimmy styles
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Petermac wrote:
jimmy styles wrote: I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.
Hopefully, not to help with power flow Jimmy ...........:shock::shock::shock::shock:

Not only ought you to ensure every piece of track is fed from the bus via a dropper, but any possibility of arcing via the sliding power connection from the rod/tube would probably play havoc with the decoders .................:roll::roll::roll::roll:


I have a break in the sleepers to insulate. I am also going to feed all the track from droppers. Would it be a issue to have brass tubes for alignment?? I thought. Long as they are on each rail then they would be ok and would be another means of passing electricity to the sector plate.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2014 10:07 pm
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Petermac
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No problem if they're "as well as" Jimmy but try to make them a snug fit.  It's not a question of short circuits, more that any faulty or suspect electrical connection will create arcing (although you won't see it at 15VAC) and this would be likely to interfere with the delicate decoder settings.

As was said earlier, gapping the PCB between the rails in essential otherwise it's like connecting both rails together - not a wise thing to do ...........:mutley:mutley



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 Posted: Thu Oct 30th, 2014 10:43 am
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jimmy styles
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so sector plate update....... well its been a long few days with some issues.

i started off with cutting the PCB board to size, this went very easy, so far so good i was thinking.

next was to tin the rails and solder the rail to the PCB. again this went with ease. i then remembered what i had been told on the forum was to clean the joint with nail varnish remover, the hardest bit of this was sneeking SWMBO'd nail varnish remover into the garage, where it still is after 4 days oops.

i measured and lined up the rails on the sector plate and trimmed them to size. it was now getting quite late and being tired and impatient i decided to lay the tracks, pinned and glued in place. i wanted to do this quickly so the glue had all night to dry. well this was my first mistake.

so at eleven PM i was out in the garage, i lined the tracks up pinned them and glued in place and went to bed happy with what i had achieved. oh how wrong could i be.

the next day SWMBO'd was out so i carried my layout into the dinning room pleased with what i had achieved it looked good and i was happy. i sat with a cup of tea looking at my master piece thinking to myself "well that was easy."

i then came to move the sector plate and guess what........... all the rails hit as i had not allowed a big enough gap for expansion.

so out came the metal file and about 1mm was trimmed off the end of each rail woo hoo this worked.

my next task was to work out a way of alignment. i went to see a friend who owns a model shop in the next town. we had a look through his stock and found some suitable brass tube and then tucked away we found a sprung canopy release for model airplanes which looked perfect.

i soldered the canopy release to the in road and the brass tube to each of the sector plates and hay presto alignment is perfect each and every time.

my soldering is not pretty but it works. and when finished wont be visible to the viewer just the operator.





i then wanted to make a quick video to show you, however please ignore Thomas on a WWII themed layout and the speed i am running the locos it was just to show you the sector plate in operation.




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 Posted: Thu Oct 30th, 2014 01:00 pm
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paul_l
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Nice one :pathead

As you intend to take it to exhibitions I assume you will be operating from the back of the layout, it may be worth putting a handle or door knob on the sector plate, looks like you have enough room beside thr rear track.
Dont forget to allow enough room for your hand to release the pins when you install your buildings.... dont ask, the boys in blue have a strange attitude, when you go round schools offering kids sweet to come and play with your trains ! :lol:

Paul



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 Posted: Thu Oct 30th, 2014 01:17 pm
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jimmy styles
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paul_l wrote:
Nice one :pathead

As you intend to take it to exhibitions I assume you will be operating from the back of the layout, it may be worth putting a handle or door knob on the sector plate, looks like you have enough room beside thr rear track.
Dont forget to allow enough room for your hand to release the pins when you install your buildings.... dont ask, the boys in blue have a strange attitude, when you go round schools offering kids sweet to come and play with your trains ! :lol:

Paul


Yeah operation will be from the rear of the layout. I was going to screw a old bit of wood to use as a handle but I like the door knob idea.

I have planned the buildings leaving enough room to slide the release pins. It needs a really good track clean

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 Posted: Thu Oct 30th, 2014 01:39 pm
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Hi Jimmy,

Well done with the sector plate. It looks like a very sturdy installation and beautifully smooth.

Crack on

Toto

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 Posted: Fri Oct 31st, 2014 01:20 am
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jimmy styles
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toto wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

Well done with the sector plate. It looks like a very sturdy installation and beautifully smooth.

Crack on

Toto


Thank you, it moves lovely from side to side thanks to my home made bearing, I'm also really pleased with the sprung clips. I will need to really clean the track as nothing is running that great and you can clearly see that the rails are dirty. But all in all I'm really quite pleased for a first ever sector plate

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 Posted: Fri Oct 31st, 2014 06:56 am
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Gary
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Great work Jimmy. :thumbs

Not only did it increase the fiddle yard space compared to using a Peco 3-way point. Overall it is probably cheaper than the Peco 3-way point as well !

Cheers, Gary.

 



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 Posted: Fri Oct 31st, 2014 08:56 am
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jimmy styles
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Gary wrote:
Great work Jimmy. :thumbs

Not only did it increase the fiddle yard space compared to using a Peco 3-way point. Overall it is probably cheaper than the Peco 3-way point as well !

Cheers, Gary.

 


And it's there because you Gary convinced me it was a good idea, It was definitely cheaper than a three was point and saves me loads of room so slightly longer storage and slight bigger scenic section....... Win win

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 Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2014 08:11 am
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jimmy styles
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So my next task should really be to build some sturdy removable legs for the layout.

Any ideas how??

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 Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2014 10:20 am
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Gary
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My suggestion would be to build a pair of collapsable trestle legs.

Similar to this...


Ofcourse you would have to determine the height and width and also where they are best positioned under the baseboard.

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2014 08:37 pm
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paul_l
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Hi

I tend to use Vertical legs, with 8mm coach bolts screwed into tee nuts, at the bottom of each leg. This provides height adjustment.
You will get the same effect with Gary's legs, if you replace the metal strap with a cord that can be tied off at the correct height. You never know how level an exhibition floor is. One hall we were at, was used for concerts, and had removable seats, althopugh it looked level, a ball would run easily downhill without any assistance. Some longer layouts struggled to get their layouts level, causing chaos in the fiddle yards.

Paul



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