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Operation Abyss - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2014 08:33 am
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jimmy styles
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Wow that link gives me lots of ideas ha ha.

Now the question is what to build as the next shunter for the layout.
I was thinking like a small industrial petrol shunter painted in war colours?

What do you think any suggestions??

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 Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2014 11:56 am
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jimmy styles
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ok so back to the sector plate and some advice require please.

i have added some cross braces one in the center then one at one end to mount the pivot to and one at the front to keep the sector plate and the main board at the same height.

however the advice i require is...... what do i use as a pivot?? i was thinking a large bolt with some washers but i'm worried that the thread on the bolt would chew up the MDF sector plate.

any ideas.

below is a picture of my progress with a little help from my son.


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 Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2014 01:38 pm
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Simonmcp
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Hi Jimmy,












If you use a bolt with a short length that is unthreaded at the top then it will not chew up the MDF. One point to note is that you may want to put a small piece of MDF attached to the sector plate and going under the baseboard to keep it in place vertically. We had problems with an MDF sector plate bowing length ways and lifting so had to install this item.












See diagram













































Attachment: MMST Sector plate 001.jpg (Downloaded 9 times)

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 Posted: Fri Oct 17th, 2014 05:19 am
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Gary
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Hi Jimmy,

You can allways use a piece of styrene tube to act as a collar for the bolt. This would need to be glued to the pre-drilled hole with araldite, no nails or similar. Or if the sector plate is ample thickness, one of these...




Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 17th, 2014 12:52 pm
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Campaman
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Just for information.

Bolts have a small section of unthreaded below the head, the ones that are fully threaded are actually Set Screws.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 11:53 am
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jimmy styles
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ok so back to the sector plate,

i had to make a decision on how to pivot it without the thread of a bolt chewing up the wood.
now i could use a bolt with only half thread but i didn't like that idea. i decided that i would use a metal sleeve.

so how to do this. i could go and buy some brass tube but that would be boring.
i have some brass knocking about and the bolt that i wanted to use. this means that i can break out the metal laithe.

so two sleeves where made one the exact thickness of the MDF and the other the exact thickness of the wood.

i next drilled the holes in the wood a little undersize and hammered the brass into the wood for a really snug fit.

the both fits the sleeve snugly so that there is no movement apart from the rotation.

i have also screwed a support to the bottom of the MDF to stop it warping in the future.

all in all i'm quite happy, next paint the wood then to start track laying.






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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 01:00 pm
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shunter1
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Nice one Jimmy,They do look like tricky jobs to make and get working.
Regards,
Derek.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 01:05 pm
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jimmy styles
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Well as this is the first sector plate I have ever made I'm quite happy with how it's going!! Time will tell when I put track across it.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 03:48 pm
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Simonmcp
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Hi Jimmy,
Easiest way to lay the track onto and across the sector plate is to push the sector plate as far down (in orientation to your picture) as it will go. Then lay the first track as close to the top of the sector plate as you want to. Next lay the track on the layout baseboard to line up with this track. Measure the clearance you want to the next track on the sector plate (remember to allow for any overhang on the curve) and lay the track making sure it lines up (no kinks) with the baseboard track. Then repeat for all the sector plate tracks.
Simon

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 04:49 pm
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jimmy styles
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Thank you I will give it a go in the next few days.

I have order a sheet of PCB board to solder the tracks to on the edges.

Question is.... Are there any tricks to stop melting the next row of sleepers??

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 05:26 pm
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Hi Jimmy,

This is a fantastic thread. A good blow by blow account. I'm looking forward to seeing the track go down and the whole thing swivel and lining up.

Keep up the good work.

Toto

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 08:30 pm
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jimmy styles
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toto wrote:
Hi Jimmy,

This is a fantastic thread. A good blow by blow account. I'm looking forward to seeing the track go down and the whole thing swivel and lining up.

Keep up the good work.

Toto


The question will be if the track lines up!!

That is my job for next week

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 09:59 pm
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toto
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Hi Jimmy,

I have every confidence. I think there was some pretty good advise on how to line up the track introducing slight bends where necessary a couple of posts back. I would go with that. I do however understand the uncertainty as it is a new venture for you.

I'm sure we are all willing you on here as you have done so well this far. I can't wait to see the track going down and that dock area is going to be fantastic.

Fear not and go for it my man and keep the pictures coming. It's a great post and read.

Cheers

Toto

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 Posted: Thu Oct 23rd, 2014 10:28 pm
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Petermac
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A neat swivel pin Jimmy. :thumbs

Question - what's the reason for the odd shaped bottom edge on the sector plate ?

Regarding melting the sleepers as you solder - just either remove 2 or 3 of them altogether - the PCB replacement will hold the track steady enough over a 2 or 3 sleeper gap.  When your solder is cool, for "cosmetic" reasons only (if required), cut off the chairs on the removed sleepers and slide the "timber" bit back into position under the rails and stick them to the baseboard with a dab of superglue.

As an alternative, as the other end of the track is free, you can slide all the sleepers back half an inch or so - some of them will come off the far end of the rails - do your soldering then slide them all back into place, slipping the rails back into the chairs of any that came off the other end.

Removing 1 sleeper after the PCB one should be all that's required to avoid melting.  Be swift with a very hot iron - the rail is more difficult to solder to than the PCB.  You could, if you are really worried, use a heat sink.  Any heat conductive clip or clamp attached to the rail just behind your solder point will stop most of the heat travelling along the rail to the plastic sleepers.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 24th, 2014 06:28 am
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jimmy styles
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Question - what's the reason for the odd shaped bottom edge on the sector plate ?



That's a easy one, my original sector plate track plan was going to have the sector plate follow the curve of the track, but then I thought "there is no point so what the hell am I doing!!"

Then I changed the track plan a little.

Thank you for the advice on soldering I will keep you updated on my progress good or bad!!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 24th, 2014 07:25 am
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Gary
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Great work Jimmy ! :thumbs

It looks very well made and very sturdy. I wired my sector plate to a rotary switch so that I can power up any of the individual tracks when needed. The power suppyl for this runs off the in-road to the rotary switch and then off to the individual sidings.

Rotary switch : http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/107154-switch-3pole-4-pos-metric-ck1031-lorlin.html

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 08:06 am
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jimmy styles
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ok so copper clad PCB board check......... arrived on saturday morning.
soldering iron check.....
solder check........
flux check.......
baseboard painted and sealed check.....
flexi track check.........
mini hand drill check........
track pins and pva check........

however wife and children at home and we got a christening to go to. (id better be there im the godfather.)

however monday and tuesday i am off work, wife is at work and children are at pre school.

watch this space.............




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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 01:44 pm
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Petermac
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Depending on what flux you're using Jimmy, don't forget to wash the soldered joint thoroughly to avoid any future corrosion. :thumbs (Don't ask how I know you should do that ................:oops::oops:)



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 02:29 pm
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paul_l
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Hi Jimmy

Great thread..

As you are using pcb, you could solder brass tubes either side of the jion, and use either copper or brass rod as a bolt, but will also provide the current over the lines. However if you are using DCC then the just provide alignment as the tracks just need to be made always live.

Paul



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2014 05:12 pm
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jimmy styles
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I am using dcc and yes the brass tubes either side are a great idea. I will be using this idea to aid alignment and help with power flow.

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