Metcalfe Chimneys
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I'd spend some time practicing Doug's method - afterall, you've seen his results. :shock::shock: I would warn you though, whilst it's always a good idea to aim for the top, few of us can achieve it but learning from the Masters is the way to go - not from the likes of me ……..:cheers
'Petermac
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Sorry, I didn't realize it was that kind of site:oops::oops::oops::oops:Go on Jim - post your fuzzy blob …………:thumbs
No can do Peter I was so happy with the quality that I dumped the pics but I'll make some to fit to a tenament and do a "How I messed it up" photo shoot.
Jim
Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets
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Cheers
Andy
Andy
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Nice little medieval hall there. Where do you plan to fit it in?
Jim
Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets
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All the brickwork is scribed onto white card then painted with watercolours, the roof and floor are also painted with watercolours, the top is foamboard with one side peeled off then scribed and painted with black acrylic, the windows are CD case scribed with a diagonal chequered pattern to represent leaded windows.
Cheers
Andy
Andy
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It will fit somewhere but a great idea about the CD cases as it's usually the centre bit that holds the disc that breaks.
Nice Tip! :mrgreen::mrgreen:
Jim
Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets
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Some of the things will be useful on other chimneys and indeed these are from the
Code
modelrailwayscenery.com
Right, on with the motley.
First up is to make the stack top and the flaunching (it’s the sloping mortar which holds the pot on the stack and lets rainwater drain off). I did it in Auto CAD but you can do it by simple measurements. In the picture each “box†of components makes the Stack tops for a single 3 storey tenement.
Since this is a rough guide, and an experiment I only made up one stack top. Cut out the stack capping and the flaunching. Punch or drill holes appropriate to the size of the pots. I prefer to use the trusty rotary hole punch in the picture and to do it before cutting out the flaunching. I also use a chisel blade to cut the corners of the cap & flaunching since it avoids drag when cutting with a knife. If you are using scissors you will not need to do this. Run an appropriate colour (grey in this case) marker pen round the edges then glue the flaunching to the capping. This gives the position of the pots on the stack and the ridge allows an attachment point. I used the point of my scriber (at the top of the picture below) to position the pot in the centre of the punched hole and slid the pot down onto the capping. Since I used the shank of the scriber to roll the pot round it was fairly accurate. A tip which I will be using next time is to use a black marker pen to colour the first third of the BACK of the pot strip including the tab used to start the rolling process. This gives you a black inside without having to use a paint brush or marker inside the pot. I will also remember to colour the long edges of the strips before rolling into pots next time.
I used both balsa cement and superglue to stick the pot bases down and on balance I found the balsa cement best. I could get a very quick stick with the balsa cement with a few seconds leeway for positioning the pot. The superglue simply grabbed anything anywhere, including the point of my scriber when I was positioning the pots.
I printed the pots out on standard 80gsm paper from Staples and the Cap & Flaunching on 210gsm card also from Staples.
I feel obliged to point out that other office suppliers are available but Staples is local and they have the paper and card I need. Artists supplies come mainly from The Range because things like mounting board (A.K.A. “heavy cardâ€) are cheap. An important consideration when you are making a street scene of 5.5 x 0.22 metres in size.
I will also say that I have a bulk fill system on my printer so ink actually costs marginally less than an equivalent weight in gold.
Petermac
Just for you Fuzzy blob
Finished pots.
Final comment.
Next time I will glue the cap and the flaunching together and punch through them both for a little deeper seating for the pots. This means I will also have to glue them both on to a sheet of paper to stop the pots falling through.
Does make a big difference.
All the tenements in the pictures are test pieces. The one above is made from an old poll tax bill (good heavy paper and printed on one side only) and shows me where I need to improve the tenement kit and will not be appearing on the layout.
Hope this helps
Regards
Jim
Last edit: by The Bankie
Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets
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Other sources of tubing - RC car antenna tubes, solid core mains cable (1mm or 2.5mm twin and earth), cut off the length you need, pull the copper wire part way out, and use that to locate the pot.
Paul
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Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets
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