This is my first attempt at Linka Model, not yet complete ( needs chimney & Pots). It will be a pub.I actually used my watercolour paints for this one, they give a better colour, although it has been advised to use acrylics

I would like to ask those of you that build these models what do you use to glue yours together ?

I am currently using a waterproof pva glue, but  I find that the glue can soften & weakent the joints. Is there anything better ?.

  

 

Hi Sarah.

Only one word for it-

Brilliant!!

Allan

I have to agree with Allan and for a first attempt it looks very good indeed. I like your treatment of the stone work, which looks very natural. As for glue, I have never tried gluing this material, but I find superglue gel works well on most things. The great thing with is stuff is that you can get a spray accelerant, which, once you are happy with the positioning of parts,sets the glue rock hard in seconds. If that does not work, then probably an all purpose glue like UHU would be fine. I think a couple of members on here have used Linka kits before so they might be able to offer a better answer.

Bob

Hi Sarah, they look great, can you do some for me in N gauge?:roll:

As for adhesives, I'd be inclined to cast a few small pieces and experiment with things like No More Nails, Evostik "Serious Glue", or a two part epoxy like Araldite. Uhu and similar clear cements I don't like so much becase they leave trails when you move the tube away from the work, I often use a hot melt gun; original Evostik is good except that being a contact glue you have to get it right first time, no sliding into place.

What do Linka recommend, if anything?

Hi Sarah, like the look of the model, you've brought the stonework out very well. Good luck with the rest of it.

Hi Sarah

"I would like to ask those of you that build these models what do you use to glue yours together ?

I am currently using a waterproof pva glue, but I find that the glue can soften & weakent the joints. Is there anything better ?"

You could do like Bob and Mike said - NONAILS/SUPERGLUE GEL. and as you say,any water based glues will soften plaster.

But first Sarah, what are your mouldings made out of - are they indeed plaster and what kind? -  If so, and it being a porus material, I don't really know what to reccommend, and I think if it was me, I would certainly try out those glues already suggested by Bob and Mike and just see which one holds out the best - and of course, there's always ARALDITE, any resin based glue, even coving adhesive I suppose but, of course, we're back to water based glues again.

So, trial and error I guess - doesn't Linka suggest anything?

Allan.

 

Below is the recommendation from Linka World :


Quote "For best results, Linka World recommends using regular yellow wood glue (also called carpenter’s glue) to join castings together." Unquote.


Here is a url of the pdf instructions for using their kit.

http://www.linkaworld.com/How%20To/Basic%20Instructions.pdf

Hi Sarah…..nice work :thumbs paintwork looks spot on…water based acrylics are a little thicker in texture than watercolour and would be a bit more harder wearing on the cast…try them and see how you get on

Sarah, that is a very tasty model!  I can't make out the window detail, could you explain, please?

Envious Doofer

That's a great model Sarah. thumbs

Linka is superb stuff but very slow to build with !!!  I no longer use it for that very reason …………

I used PVA to glue mine, but sparingly then, once the joint is good and dry, I "painted" on some of the casting plaster which "bleeds" into the joint and, once set, it's as hard as the casting itself.

Many years ago, Linka used to make a special glue and also, a special casting plaster. The problem was, shipping the stuff - it's heavy !!  They withdrew it and, being owned by the Americans, their site now tends to recommend American products.

Here in France, there's a plaster called "casting plaster".  It's designed for repairing those ornate covings found in large houses.  It's not as tough as the original Linka plaster but it's not bad.

I also assemble the panels "detail down" - i.e. "upside down" so that any discrepancies in the thickness of the castings don't show up on the face.  Looking at your model, you've either done that, or your castings were very good.

I'm sure you've visited the "Linka World" site :  Welcome to Linka World! - Your online source for Linka products, tips, and ideas

If you look down the right hand side, the model of Jervaulx Abbey was built by a great friend of mine, after which, he donated the moulds to me. ;-)  That's why I started using it although I quickly found it wasn't as easy as he made it out to be ……….:shock::shock::shock:

Fantastic Sarah,do post pictures when it's finished.

Excellent, Sarah.

Hi Sarah,


I use Anita's Tacky Glue  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Glue-Anitas-Tacky-240ml/dp/B002OEJ1O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1362780031&sr=8-3  as it sticks so quickly it doesn't have time to soften the card I use it to stick. I think therefore it would be good for plaster.

Mixing some PVA into the plaster will make it more workable (plasterers use it) and also will make it more impervious, only drawback is the watercolours won't take so well on it then.

Humbrol do Acrylic paints in small pots. Only get the ones with a screw top and not the ones with a pop up lid as they are a different formula and are terrible to work with. Alternatively you can buy the cheap acrylics from The Works http://www.theworks.co.uk/p/paint/crawford-black-acrylic-paint-200ml---crimson-red/5052089003194 and mix yoour own colours and I also put in Matt Medium http://www.theworks.co.uk/p/paint/boldmere-acrylic-paint-medium-matte-200ml/5052089099159.

Simon

Hi Sarah,

Wow ! That pub is excellent and you've managed to blend the joits very well.

I just use Evo-stick woodwork adhesive for gluing the parts together and I then wash some diluted plaster over the joints to fill them in. A bit like grouting tiles. I use Artex plaster for actually casting the parts as it's a bit stronger than standard P of P and I also mix some powder paints in to give them a basic stone or brick colour so that any small chips don't show up white..

Hello,
Not used any for 20 years or so. I always used UHU glue if the plaster breaks its always the glued bit that is not broken i found it good for inbankment walls just used  some ply and stuck the linka pieces to that.
regards

Well Done Sarah. A friend of mine here in Oz also uses Linka Moulds a lot so I have a fair idea of how good the system is even from this far away. You have captured the look of the random colour in the  brickwork really well.  Ted uses casting plaster and although it may be an atmospheric thing with our different climates, I believe he only uses white or Yellow PVA.
I'll be interested to see some of your further work… enjoy the hobby!
Regards
Trevor

Thats nice,it looks very good :Happy



Tomsk

That's really nice, Sarah. I like the way Linka gives a 'heavy' look to buildings; it makes then look as though they really are built from stone or brick. I have used Linka in the past,  but found it too time-consuming for large projects. I now stick to glueing odd bits of plastikard together from time to time.

Great to see you "up and about" Perry. thumbs:thumbs

Hope things are OK with you and yours.  Any chance of an update on "happenings" ? :cheers

[user=312]dooferdog[/user] wrote:

Sarah, that is a very tasty model!  I can't make out the window detail, could you explain, please?

Envious Doofer

The window detail : If you mean the bars, these were sheets of windows on plastic backing  cut out and glued from the inside.They came with my second-hand moulds. Hope this was the answer you required.

 

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Many thanks to all who replied to my queries on using glue for linka Buildings and the nice comments on my Pub.Lots of helpful advice.