While I don't have a formal 'plan' as such, the shape of my table has largely dictated the layout of my kingdom.  I constructed the base primarily as a moveable structure, so it had to be strong, but also light.  The primary cladding of the deck is 3 mm MDF over a pine framework.  The 3mm MDF sags after a while, creating natural undulations.  Those areas I wanted to stay relatively flat I doubled with one or more layers of 3 mm MDF, building up the contours as I went.

Now that the trackwork is all down and the roundhouse and environs are in place, it is time to fair off all the remaining untreated exposed MDF.  Once the MDF is covered, it stiffens up and the sagging stops.  For covering I have glued different types of real soils with 60:40 PVA glue.

I have photographed the process for those who may be interested.  Thanks to advice from Alan, I rummaged around in the entrails of my stills camera and found that it is possible to modify the .asa setting to compensate for using the largest f stop on the camera as I search for better depth of field.  I set it at 100, which is the lowest setting.  Focus seems to be better in the foreground now, allowing the background to be less so.  I hope you can notice an improvement, Alan.

Here we go.




First I poured some 60:40 PVA glue on to the MDF and spread it around using my fingers.  This breaks the surface tension in the glue and allows it to penetrate the surface of the MDF.





I have sieved some dolomite gravel for this area.  I put some in a nutmeg shaker and covered the surface of the glue with the sand.  Some of the glue starts to wet the dolomite, so I know it is starting to key in.  The brush is to sweep any dolomite which spills on to the roadway, back into its right area.





Once the sand is spread, I go back with the 60:40 glue and add more until it begins to look like a rice paddy.  I need to go carefully at this point as the glue wicks through the sand and may run out on to the road if I put too much on.  It doesn't matter how undulated the sand is when it goes on, as the 'rice paddy' effect causes the sand to flow around with the glue and level out.





Although the MDF has undulations in it, I have found it is good to enhance them with colour.  I have learned this from watching MikeC.  First I take some of the dolomite which hasn't been sieved, and start to create the contour lines in talus. Then I start colouring.  I don't want the colours to be too garish, so I use the ones above.  The fine turf colours are for shading, Earth first, then a little bit of Burnt Grass.  This stuff goes a long way.  The coarse turf is added last for texture.  All this is sprinkled directly on to the rice paddy.





Sorry about the shaky photo, but I didn't notice it until I had finished the work.  If you look carefully you can see the talus, the colours and the texture hopefully enhancing the shapes of the contours.





Not so shaky this time, and the shapes can be seen a bit better.





Here's how it looks once it's dry.  The talus and the shading working with the natural shape which can be seen as it falls away from the roadbed.





Further to the left.  There is a physical drop next to the green line which runs behind the yard light.  It was created where the pieces of MDF which are doubling the others, come to an edge.





This is a shot of the same process, using dolomite and its talus on the right and river loam and its talus on the left.  The colours hopefully give the effect of a low area in the middle.  The fallen trees are bits of Melaleuca, PVA glued in afterwards.





This high shot might show the effect better.  The roads are acrylic paint scraps mixed together.  Once it dries, I dip my fingers in the sieved dolomite and rub the dust on to the painted road.  Covering the ground is great fun and pretty quick to do.

Now that the flat areas as well as the hills are covered, I can begin to make and install trees and larger bushes to finish it off.  Lichens, Clump Foliage, home made trees and commercial trees will soften the joins with the hills; and I'll add another copse or two.


I hope you enjoyed the journey.  I have enjoyed posting it.  Cheers  Max
 

Great stuff,Max.When I get round to doing my scenery,I will refer back to this.Some lovely shots of the layout there as well.That end by the window looks magical!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

For a Carpet Doctor,  you do a bleedin' good job.  :pathead:pathead

Lovely Max, spiffy beautifull. I shall refer to this when i start to do mine.

Phill

Thanks, guys.  I just noticed that the wind has ripped Wendy's bamboo blind.  I't amazing what you pick up in photos!  It's blowing a gale, here.  Pouring with rain.  Freezing - 16 degrees!:shock:

Max yes we have enjoyed it,for some one who dosen`t do scenery
you have cracked mate.

:doublethumblol::cool:

Thanks Owen.  Still got a way to go, but feeling a bit more confident.

Looks very good indeed, Max, with beautifully subtle variations. I like it a lot. A very useful how-to.

 Mike

Thanks, Mike.  It must feel good when your pupil shows some promise.  :thumbs

To say you can not do scenery, well if mine came out any where near like yours i be shouting off the roof tops, all though i hate heights so have to be shouting from somewhere else :roll:.

I reckon its really good mate.

Phill

thanks Phill

Max

Apart from you skill as a modeller, it's your planning that I admire, because it's all coming together so well , that it just cannot be done as you go. the whole layout as seen by looking at the latest photos, show that planning ahead works, really really good.

Not bad scenery either , it's so good that you feel like your are standing there :thumbs

Max

superb scenic work you have become a bit of a scenic expert now .

Trouble is Ron will be inviting you round for cups of tea and saying while your here have a go at this and that

P.s Do you actually drink much tea in Australia?

cheers Brian

Thanks Alan, but what about the changes I've made to the camera.  Can you see any difference?

[user=52]henryparrot[/user] wrote:

Max

superb scenic work you have become a bit of a scenic expert now .

Trouble is Ron will be inviting you round for cups of tea and saying while your here have a go at this and that

P.s Do you actually drink much tea in Australia?

cheers Brian

Thanks Brian.  Yes we drink a lot of tea - also cream sherry:thumbs

[user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:

Thanks Alan, but what about the changes I've made to the camera.  Can you see any difference?

The depth of focus looks a better, if that's what you mean, have you started using manual or are you altering the aperture only ?

I've changed to f10 and .asa 100

I've just had a second look through your "How to", Max and I'm impressed. thumbs 

It's well pleasing when one of our members becomes proficient in a skill that they have previously claimed not to have. I hope some of our posts have helped in the learning process. Nice one Max. 

[user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:

I've changed to f10 and .asa 100

From :question

But those settings will give you a far greater depth of focus ( when you want it ) and also a better quailty file from which to print from, if you so wish, ( which might be needed in the future !)

Not sure how you could be regarded as a pupil of mine, Max, but very glad to see such good scenery.

 Mike