Edging
Posted
#21292
(In Topic #1624)
Guest user
As I am nearly in a position to fix the top boards on to the framework I was wondering if there is any benefit either aesthetically or safety of fixing a facing on the framework which would hide the edge of the top board and the framework as well maybe providing a lip of say 20mm which may give a degree of prevention to items falling off the layout
Your thoughts would be appreciated
Happy Modelling
Matt
Posted
Inactive Member
I may eventually put a little scratchbuilt brick wall along the edge to prevent the locos hitting the deck.
What I'm saying Matt is that in my opinion it depends how you want to view your trains and b) how close the tracks are to the edge.
Les
Devon Junction
Kernow Junction
Kernow Junction
Posted
Guest user
1 no doubt my son will love grabbing everything in reach so this will prevent little fingers reaching to far :D
2 i always have a plan change, so i may move the control panel or add a second point\switch board. so if the edging was in place it would have to be removed.
Posted
Inactive Member
Ken.
'It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that Swing'
Posted
Guest user
On the previous layout. I used deeper perspex about 6" - 4" above the baseboard to protect buildings, etc that maybe close to the edge..
Posted
Guest user
If you do this, I think it's vital to finish off things flush with the level of the undulations and to allow the edge board to be at least 3" below the original baseboard level to hide the frame.
I then finish off by painting the front with a matt black (or other dark colour) paint.
Posted
Legacy Member
Posted
Full Member
I have seen the use of clear perspex on Sol's layout and it looks good. He did not have it on his entire layout but where it was located served a purpose and you could still see the trains.
On my layout I will be doing some areas with clear perspex and other areas just a raised scenic edge, and another part of the layout there will be neither. It will depend on the particular scene on the that portion of my layout.
There has been some good feedback on an an interesting topic.
Cheers
Connor (CCGWR)
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Full Member
Brian(G)
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Guest user
8)
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Full Member
'
Posted
Guest user
Thanks for all the responses ….. I thought it was going to be a straight forward yes or no but knowing this forum there are always options and alternatives. The main problem area is the edge around the operating well as three other edges are against the wall and will not be seen and the outer edge which you see when you approach the layout will have a curtain or something to hide the garden equipment which is currently there (as per the photo in my layout thread)
Will give this some thought over the next few weeks and make a decision then.
You guys are unbelievable at times and I guess this is what makes this forum the place it is.
Thanks again
Happy Modelling
Matt
Posted
Legacy Member
Posted
Guest user
Posted
Guest user
Not sure about the perspex as I am thinking of having the edging match any scenery that will be at the side of the track. Will have to wait until the track is laid etc. before I get a feel for it
I appreciate that I might not need anything but it might just finish the tables off aesthically and not have you looking at bare timber and the edge of the 12mm MDF
Posted
Guest user
on the left hand side, you can see perspex all the way along the side - this protects buildings but allows them to be seen.
You maybe able to see on the right hand side far end a smaller piece that protected that cattle dock.
Posted
Full Member
I've tested the concept on my diorama. Most easily seen in the photo below.
… and I'm probably going to have a low perspex "accident preventer" attached to the facsia too.
However, T doesn't like the curtains, says that they look messy, could I make the facsia board go all the way to the floor :shock:
I've seen full length fascia's on some mega US layouts and it looks good but can I do it around the curved edges of my Newcastle Emlyn layout…. I'm not so sure. More experimentation is required.
Posted
Guest user
Tell T that curtains are cheaper & easier to fit.
Posted
Full Member
I'll give T the nod and then leave it to perculate. 8)
It will probably mean making a couple of short trial sections and the choosing the best.
The other option could be 4mm masonite curved to suit with a wood pattern laminate. I think that I've seen thin laminate that might not even need the masonite backing.
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