Time on my hands?

 Hi All.  I thought that I would have a go at “ kit building “ ? Which may end up with Bashing or bodging, I have just opened the packet. The first question is cement or weld, the instructions state that some parts may have to be trimmed, is this with a “ sand board “ as in the Ladies nail bar? or a needle file. I have begun kits before, but, don’t always finish them. One kit the Ratio bogie b passenger brake van, was going well but I was disheartened by all the fiddly bits of etched parts, and a pair of doors that went in back to front, and the glue was so strong that I couldn’t shift them. I will have to see how I get on?   Any advice please.    Best wishes Kevin 

Trimming usually means removing "flash" from the injection molding process. This happens with old molds that leak molten plastic between the joints. You will find this with Ratio kits as well, especially the old 4-wheel ones. Nail emery files and a fine scalpel usually do the job.

Cement versus weld. The big difference is that cements contain solvent and a lot of styrene, welds contain solvent and little or no styrene, and rely on melting both surfaces with solvent so that they weld together. The joint is usually not as strong as found with cement, but sufficient to keep the pieces together. Rule of thumb is the thicker the  glue the more styrene monomer it contains. Disadvantage of solvent-based welds is that you only have seconds to do the job. That's why jigs to hold right-angled sections together are used, the weld is ls literally painted into the joint. Small parts are best dealt with using a very small drop of cement. Metal etch to plastic needs CA.

I found a combination of thin and thick solvent welds along with some plastic compatible CA for etched add-ons works well on most plastics.

Nigel

I agree with what Nigel says about the glue Kevin it pays to have both, the solvent is great but you have to be fast with it Sometimes you would love to use the solvent but its not practical to use in certain circumstances.

Brian

Hi Nigel.   Thank you for your reply. I have, somewhere, some magnetic corner pieces that would do the job, but I cannot locate them. I have got and used with success “ Revell contacts professional “  on plastic kits . The kit has so many parts, to lose, I had better be careful.  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Brian.  Thank you for your reply. I have just replied to Nigel about “ Revell contacta professional “ , and unless I hear something to the contrary I will use that.  Firstly, I have to locate the magnetic corners, to keep everything square.    Best wishes Kevin 

I use Lego bricks to make a right angle. Hold the pieces in place with clothes pegs. Cheap and cheerful. And they make great bracing inside box vans. I buy the bricks by the pint or quart. I had one of those fancy jigs - spent more time setting up than assembling. WOT.

Nigel

Thank you for your reply .  So far I cannot remember where my “ York “ magnets, by I did have success with another Dapol/ Airfix kit, the Loco shed . Watch this space, I may find the magnets yet.  Best wishes Kevin 

You said "any advice ?" Kevin.

Three words - patience, patience and patience !!!

Read (and understand) the instructions/exploded drawings.

Dry fit parts first.

Don't rush anything - if you're not 100% sure, check again before applying any glue.

Hi Petermac. Thank you for your reply. At least there isn’t much in the way of instructions , there is however an exploded diagram , and for thickos  ( which I don’t require ) the parts are numbered, which I have been reading through. But I have been going through boxes today trying to find the safe place where I put the “ corner magnets “ that I supported my previous kit with. There is a small amount of plastic that I have to clean off. Maybe it would be quicker to buy a new set?  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel. If you buy Lego bricks by the Pint 🍺 or the Quart , where do they all go, or do you leave them in situ?As for clothes pegs, my recent spell in Hospital left my fingers on both hands with   pins and needles, leaving my fingers weak. I think that I will have to add weight with “ liquid lead “.  Best wishes Kevin 

They get used for lots of things -fuel tanks, exhaust stacks, platform edging, faux brick/block, bridge piers, along with right angles and internal bracing.Nigel

The Lego store has pint and quart sized containers that you fill from the different bins, real mix and match. Plus the grandchildren use (and lose) quite a few.


Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Now that I have the Dapol Presflo Wagon Kits, before I build them, Kadee Couplings or NEM pockets need to be fitted which means that  I have to make provisions for either. Have you got any experience with fitting either coupler fitting on a plastic kit? I suppose it is no different from retro fitting a Kadee to any RTR Wagon. Best wishes Kevin 

The usual things - height gauge, the coupler, plastic shims (make your own or KD), glue and screw to go through the gear box hole. If you use NEM KDs you will need the mounting blocks from Parkside/Peco and some boxes from Bachmann NEM tension lock couplers.

I usually use KD screws and whisker couplers.


NIgel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply. I think that I will go along with that.   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Petermac.  Yet another reply. Who am I kidding? In my haste to add a larger choice of wagons to my plank, I didn’t give painting and transfers a second thought. Oh Calamity, for a start I don’t want to purchase or even use an Airbrush . But I haven’t even done any painting of models let alone to a good standard, as for Transfers ?Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

Looks like you are up there without the paddle. Some tips shortly when I get in the computer.

Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply.   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

Back again hopefully with some paddles to get you down the creek. Based on my own experience:

Paint. Vallejo acrylics. They go on smooth and flat with a good brush, especially the airbrush range, which has finer pigment particles. Nothing railway specific, but the range is big enough. Somewhere on the web are the color equivalents for the big four and BR. Paint one side at a time and allow to dry keeping the wagon flat. Helps to have a production line going. If you do 3 wagons at a time, the paint is usually dry on the side of the first one by the time you have done the last one.

Diluent. Do not use water, it just dilutes the acrylic and makes the paint weak. Use acrylic diluent. (This applies to all acrylic paints). Better repeated coats of thinned rather than one thick coat of undiluted.

Cleanliness. That plastic body needs to be grease-free. Quick wash and gentle brush in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid, rinse well, pat dry with lint free paper towel ("Shop Towel"), and only handle by the top and bottom. Let dry overnight, or use the hairdryer on low.

Brushes. Use good quality sable or equivalent. Get these at an artist's supply shop. Keep them clean, never let paint dry on them.

Finish. Gloss acrylic after painting for transfer application. Brush on or rattle can.

Transfers. Try Robbies Rolling Stock, as they are full side transfers specifically designed for Dapol 5 and 7 plank wagons. Good selection of PO sides from the South East and London. Robbie recommends a very small drop of PVA in the water used to detach the transfer. Specials and one-offs as well.Bit thicker than regular transfers, takes a bit more work to get them into the crack between planks

Set and solve. Use a setting solution to get the transfer into the cracks, use a solvent solution to melt the edges into the background. I use Micro-Set and Micro-Solv. Full side transfers only need the setting solutions.

Finish. Matt acrylic after transfers are dry. Essential if using weathering powders. Brush on or rattle can.

Tools. Small sharp scissors, plastic tweezers (pointed and flat) for handing the transfer, sharp pin or needle for popping air bubbles, small plastic trays, water, shop towel.

If you need masking tape get the ones meant for model painting. They are low tack and thinner than regular masking tape. Tamiya or similar.

Try some small transfers to start with. How about some early BR ex-PO wagons painted grey, they just have a couple of small transfers at the bottom with the number and tare in white on black patches, plus white diagonals. If memory serves me you can get these from Modelmaster.Just checked, 2 different sets, includes the white diagonals.

There is a good reason why plastic wagon kits are less expensive than RTR ones fully painted and lettered (although Timpo printing not transfers, is used).

Be prepared for a few "well I never!" and "would you believe it?" moments. Nothing like letting it dry and realizing it is at a slight angle. %$#$%^& moment. Good soak in warm water will get it off, unless you gave it a coat of acrylic matt. Then you need some transfer remover.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply.  The transfers are included in the kit, but I will have to discover ( be careful) where to stick them? on the bodywork. I have got to find  a good art shop which has the brushes in stock. Another new thing is Set and Solve.And removing the grease, it is a pity that RTR , preferably Bachmann are not available, that would have saved a lot of faffing around.  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

Over here it's sold by Microscale Industries. emodels in Stoke on Trent sell it. As does Amazon UK.

Nigel