Tools for cutting and shaping

Hi Brian.  This is another reply. I have located my local “Range “ outlet, at Surrey Docks ( now known as Surrey Quays ) . I have a choice of Train or bus no contest. When I am up to it, if they are still trading? I will pop along and see what they have. Best wishes Kevin 

You would not find the 450mm one hard to use Kevin the handle on it will be a boon for you with your condition.

Brian

Have I mentioned this…
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=5042&forum_id=11&highlight=scrutter

Doug

Hi Doug.  Thank you for your reply. A terrific idea, but it is many a year since I have done any grinding ? Besides I don’t have a workshop and the spare bedroom/ Railway Room already is looking like a .Â¥$€{}?hole. Apart from that I have trouble holding virtually anything in a secure way. Therefore I am doing a lot of exercises to get my hands working.  Best wishes Kevin 

Kevin, the easy answer to your problem of cutting Wills sheets is use Slaters sheets, or anyone elses for that matter.

Wills sheets are probably the most difficult to work with and in my view the depth of relief on the joints on their brickwork and stonework is totally unrealistic to the point of looking cartoony (and that's being kind). At the distance we generally view our layouts from relief is not necessary for most walls constructed in brickwork, although I do accept many modellers like to see some.

So look at Slaters or Southeast Finecast as an alternative to Wills, or better still, use card and Scalescenes textures instead: easier cutting and save on painting.

Hi Nick.  Thank you for your reply. That is probably the best advice, but, as I have begun the job already and I can finish it with the stuff that I have got, I will buy either Slaters or South East Finecast for my next project/ job.Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

A decent heavy duty utility knife and blade will score Wills sheets and then cut them with a bit of patience. The trick is to cut slowly and repeatedly, and only about a third of the way through. Then put a thin piece of cardboard under the the section you are holding, bend the sheet open a tad at the cut, and continue cutting. Bending just slightly relieves the pressure on the blade. Good neuropathy exercise. 


If you cut out or score about half way through and then put it in the freezer for 30 minutes it will snap more easily. Wills plastic is too soft and pliable at room temperature. Always cut oversize and file/sand to the size required.


A carpet or lino cutter knife blade works as well. I use an old dart as a scorer, tapered end, sharp, no filing required. A modelers saw and multi-angle box is useful when you need to cut things at angles or for small pieces that will not snap. These saws have minimal kerf and do not seize.


Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. I am half way through scrapping what I have done so far, and going along with Nick, and buying brick sheet from either Slaters or South East finecast . If I do not like the idea i will finish the work that I started, but I’m certain that I find Nick has come up trumps. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

I did point you in the direction of SE Finecast sheets a long time ago when you were exploring embankment and abutments. 

Nigel

Hi Nigel.   Thank you for your reply. That you probably did but, my memory is like a sieve, and the holes in the sieve are getting bigger by the day. I have so many ideas running around in my head that I am getting nowhere fast. And I have used that line before. Best wishes Kevin