It arrived today from Hattons - it measures when flat at 5 x 205 x 330 mm  and it came in a carton that measures
112 x 265 x 400 mm filled with plastic bubble wrap.
At least it didn't get bent

Now for some investigation on what I can do to it to make it a bit different than normal…

I know Redutex isn't really around much any more Ron, but would you consider using something like that or Volmer that gives a bit of relief the brickwork as Superquick is very flat.

Regards Connor

I may use Scalescenes stone or brick work Connor.

[user=211]CCGWR[/user] wrote:

I know Redutex isn't really around much any more Ron, ………………………………………….

I didn't know that - what's happened to them ?

Following this one Sol…..   I have made a couple of super quick buildings and was disappointed with the finish.  That is in part due to my poor card modelling skills and lack of patience, but they do seem very flat.  Will be intrigued to haw you go about this.

Regards
Michael

I will photocopy it & cut out lintels, etc & glue them over the existing to give a 3D effect, Actually will use 200GSM paper/card.

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

It arrived today from Hattons - it measures when flat at 5 x 205 x 330 mm  and it came in a carton that measures
112 x 265 x 400 mm filled with plastic bubble wrap.
At least it didn't get bent

The size of the packaging is getting ridiculous these days. The postie delivered a box that was so big he couldn't see over it when carrying it from the van.  Like yours it contained a large but flat pillow so not at all heavy.  Why didn't they fold the pillow ?  - would have saved a lot of air filled bubble wrap.
I'm told its to do with the standardisation of parcel size so as to make handling easier !
That progress for you - I suspect we now move more air than we do actual goods around the country/globe

[user=1512]Headmaster[/user] wrote:

Following this one Sol…..   I have made a couple of super quick buildings and was disappointed with the finish.  That is in part due to my poor card modelling skills and lack of patience, but they do seem very flat.  Will be intrigued to haw you go about this.

Regards
Michael

 

I think with the superquick models as they are out of the box shall we say.  You need to apply the 3 ft rule.
If for example the building was more than 3ft from your viewing area you would not notice the flatness so much.
But if less than 3ft you would definitely notice it.

Brian

[user=540]gdaysydney[/user] wrote: 

 That progress for you - I suspect we now move more air than we do actual goods around the country/globe

Trump will tax it…..

OK, one side as it comes


now I have added new door & window frames, foundations to give some 3D effect  & boy, does the macro shot of the camera show up the rough edges - even with my normal glasses at 12" away , it does not look that bad..


In for a penny, in for a pound…

This will be delayed now for a few weeks as I have to work out the wiring for the new exhibition layout being built in the club I am part of.
http://www.sap4group.org.au/

That's a great website Sol - I enjoyed reading about your club - and can see how attractive the different gauges are - P87 looks good ……………………….. :hmm

[user=1512]Headmaster[/user] wrote:

Following this one Sol…..   I have made a couple of super quick buildings and was disappointed with the finish.  That is in part due to my poor card modelling skills and lack of patience, but they do seem very flat.  Will be intrigued to haw you go about this.

Regards
Michael

Most mortar joint depths from the face of the brick are less than 6mm, which in OO is 0.08mm. Viewing that from one meter in OO is 76 meters in real life. It looks flat. Even the aggressive, decorative joints such as struck or raked will still look flat. From memory most mortar joints on railways are concave or flush. The only plastic brick sheet I found anywhere near real life are the ones from SE Finecast which come in various bonds. Martin's (Mr Tin)  method of sanding down till almost flush is spot on. 

If it was/is an old building some tuck pointing of patched new brick in a lighter mortar  color is a nice touch. Masking tape and a fine brush. Or cut sections out to detail and reinstall. It looks just like a patch job.

Nigel

P.S. I just browsed a range of brick work in stations, cabins,  bridges and embankments. Flush mortar joints seem to be the norm.

this thread will come to a grinding halt for same time as today I have made a decision to re=track a fair bit of the D&S which will be explained on the D&S thread.

Re-track ?  :shock: :shock:

I don't believe it Sol - you've never been known to alter your track before ……………………

Hi Ron,
I like how you are going about making it more 3D.

For me, the biggest let-down for all the card kits is the edges of the board on the corners. A set of overlay corner stones might be an effective way of getting round the problem, and would match the doorways?

Keep up the good work – I'll look forward to the finished building!

Gordon :-)

Gordon,I did that on my Metcalfe station building fitting quoins to the corners.

I've just looked up your station building in your photos – it looks smashing.
I'm hoping you have as much success with the Superquick jobbie!

Gordon :-)

Slowly coming together