Electrics. DCC
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Decoder fitting
Hi Nigel. You would not believe it? But for the man that doesn't spend enough time on his hobby, I really buy some useless Locos, this time eBay was offering "6 Pugs" I placed my bid and waited, to be outbid, no takers. Now I have a chance to either build a DC Layout, or learn fast and fit all of them DCC? Trouble being the cost for either option, Hattons price for two suitable Decoders ( Hornby 8249 ) is greater than the price of the Locos.All the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Good luck with both.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I would however confirm Nigel's comment regarding the two speed control of the earlier locos, which is spot on. Furthermore, if you're going to use any of your 0-4-0 fleet as shunters (slow running) over insul-frog points, you are likely to discover why these little chaps are so inexpensive!
The recnt Model Rail (by Dapol) 0-4-0 Sentinal is a much better proposition with its 'supercreep' motor, although some patience is now required in finding one.
Good luck with whichever route you decide, but please make sure you select a really good DC runner for any DCC conversion before committing further resources.
Cheers,
Bill
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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All the best. Kevin
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They lend themselves to all sorts of great little conversion projects, either now or in the future and you don't have to run 'em.
Couple of my efforts…
Not great by a lot of peoples standards, but a bit of fun to do and they now sit on a shelf.
Have a search on here and the other forums around the web, lots of things you can do with Pugs :thumbs
Ed
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And if they were short of a motor? They would bung in a Scalectrix motor? instead. Another comment the wrong hearing, unsuitable for slow speeds, these comments are ringing in my ears. All the best. Kevin
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How slow do you want to go.
Decoder since removed, but was a Digitrax DN136D mainly due to it's small size.
Think Hattons do a small own brand decoder, which would be cheaper than a Hornby decoder.
Ed
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All the best. Kevin
PS True that Loco is really running SLOW.
Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Besides a clutch of Bachmann panniers and some Hornby's, I've an as new, mint and boxed Mainline 57xx I bought 35 years ago and will be hard wiring a decoder into it in due course. It's good to have a hobby, so don't stress about your pugs Kevin.
Bill
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Ed
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I found a guide for the Hornby GWR 101 locomotive here https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/standard-0-4-0-decoder-installation-guide, or the Caledonian 'pug' here https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/r782-0-4-0-smokey-joe-decoder-installation/.
While these basic 0-4-0s tend to have 'racing car' gearing (as previous posters have pointed out), a good decoder can tame them a bit, as long as you can ensure all pickups are in contact with all wheels and the wheels and track are clean. With a little fine-tuning, you should be able to get the starting (CV2) and slow-speed running fairly controllable, and limit the top speed to something more manageable too (CV5).
While space is a problem in these locomotives, it is not an insurmountable problem. With several 'spare' locomotives, you can afford to have a try with one, and use it as the guinea pig while you learn as you go.
p.s. Please avoid the Hornby decoders; they are not robust and if you are hard-wiring them and they blow up, you have to desolder everything and start again with the replacement. I save all of my leftover Hornby decoders (the ones that haven't self-destructed) to use as function-only decoders for lights in trailer cars (as in DMUs, for example).
Last edit: by SRman
Jeff Lynn,
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I don't have any good photos of it scanned in; the nearest I can find ready to go is this one of the figure-8 layout with the pug sitting in the siding (next to our late Toby).
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By the way you did mention suitable Decoders from Hattons that were a better choice and cheaper than the Hornby Decoders. All the best. Kevin
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Hi Kevin,Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. Just Good Luck? I was hoping that you would be more inventive? Kevin
Inventive? With these models it's a necessity. If you must it's one of the few that are best hard-wired. The load from the recent motors allows a Z/N scale decoder. Cut wires, solder wires, job done. That's the easy bit out of the way (taking it apart is the hard bit).
The body is not bad with some detailing, the pistons/wheels/rods are just awful, and the diameter of the wheels and gearing is way too high for reliable slow work (they'll do a scale 100+ mph flat out). The last one I did (a "Smokey Joe") had a replacement N/S chassis, new N/S pistons, new rods, new wheels (3' scale or thereabouts), 50:1 gearing and motor from Branchlines. £££. I only used the body shell and metal chassis. Lots of work and fettling, but it looked OK in the end. Enough room in the body for a small speaker with the Hornby stuff gone into the bin.
You can whip the as is wheels off, and replace with ones with more appropriate diameters, along with a new gear and motor and keep the original chassis (new ones are plastic, old ones are metal and are best for this sort of work). Doing a tram cover for the rods and pistons also saves a lot of work. Or get rid of them and make it a locomotive with inside pistons. Hide the metal retaining clips on each side with tool boxes/oil cans/heaps of rusty chains. I used to use these models for On16.5 models - new cab, chimney, dome, etc. Should have some pictures somewhere.
One thing of note that most folks miss is that the with the open cab models the rear of the cab has doors. They are there for a reason - to get coal from the flat-bed or 1-plank wagon permanently coupled to the locomotive. With a nice heap of coal (and shovel) it's the ideal place for a small speaker. Which sort of makes it an 0-4-4.
Ed's right - they're nice project starters. Even if the end result is not prototypical. And if it gets messed-up, it's only a fiver (hope you didn't pay more than that, the GWR "Special Edition" 101 is one of several thousand, not exactly hen's teeth).
Good Luck.
Nigel
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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