M7 LSWR livery and which carriages

Hi Kevin,

Electromagnet uncouplers. If you must have one the Rapido is the better choice. My personal opinion has not changed regarding either. WOT. There are much simpler alternatives if you must have one that is switchable (on/off).


Tension hook. You didn't say whether it was an NEM one or the old screw on type. My previous comments stand. If there is steel, even screws, there will be attraction, especially if the magnet is too high. The other thing that struck me is the possibility that the gear is steel. Run a magnet along the underside of the chassis to see whether there are steel hot spots.That rear bogie could be steel also. The wheel axles will be. Older models will have also have magnetic driving wheels.


Last possible area I can think of - the rail gauge. After cutting the sleepers it pays to check that you are still in gauge by using a track gauge when gluing down. Otherwise you can get a locomotive  that gets squeezed to a stop. Or derails. You have already identified this, and Bill has already suggested taking the magnet out and seeing what happens.


As I said, Pandora's box with 3 possible areas that need checking - the couplers, the chassis, and the track. 


Once you start using KaDee components and mixing them with other items that is normally when the fun, fetling and bodging starts. Especially with UK stock which is loaded with steel. 


Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. Today after lifting the Kadee magnet on the plank/ module yesterday,  today I dug out a different plank  which also has a Kadee magnet with code 75 track, fitted the same way ( cut the sleepers and drop in the magnet) and I didn’t have any trouble, nor did the Loco, apart from dirty track, which has been stood in the corner . I have a riddle for you? If the track needs cleaning? How do you get a Loco to drag a track cleaner around the track?   Best wishes Kevin 

Get a battery powered loco if you can.

On a small layout you dont need a loco to drag it around its easily done by pushing it around with that thing at the end of your arm called a hand.
Only on a larger layout or one that has hidden areas would you need a loco and the best solution would be as Brendan said if it was extremely dirty.

Brian

Hi Brian.   Thank you for your reply. I have tried that, and all I succeeded in doing is derailing the wagon.Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. I cannot remember if I had answered this, but roughly it is like this?Most of my wagons are by Dapol, and when I fit Kadee, the first thing I do is remove the body and the weight which I substitute with “ liquid lead “ or whatever you call it? As it goes everywhere I make a frame of styrene pour in the lead and superglue, when it is set I screw on the Kadee Couplings. I haven’t manage to purchase any “ non ferrous “ wheels and axles though. Regarding the Kadee on the Loco? That would be a N E M fitting, a bit droopy, unless I bung something in it? As far as the Kadee magnet is concerned, today I dug out or the corner a plank that has been stood In the corner of my  bedroom. That also has a Kadee magnet which would have been fitted about the same time as the other one. By me using the same modus operandi, And the Hornby M7 had no trouble with the points nor the magnet. But the track really needs a good cleaning ! It must be badly oxidised?  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

I do not use track cleaners, no need with a small layout. N/S will go yellow after several years storage with a slight drop in conductivity. I use #800 followed by #1200 emery paper to clean the rail heads, followed by a wipe with 99% IPA.

Have you checked whether the track is actually live? Or that you have pickup by all wheels? If you only have contact from the drivers and you have a bit of dead track you might just find the M7 coming to a sudden stop….time to read the multimeter instructions.

It sounds like you need to have a look at the track geometry and or magnet position.

Nigel

BCDR wrote:

Hi Kevin,

I do not use track cleaners, no need with a small layout. N/S will go yellow after several years storage with a slight drop in conductivity. I use #800 followed by #1200 emery paper to clean the rail heads, followed by a wipe with 99% IPA.

Have you checked whether the track is actually live? Or that you have pickup by all wheels? If you only have contact from the drivers and you have a bit of dead track you might just find the M7 coming to a sudden stop….time to read the multimeter instructions.

It sounds like you need to have a look at the track geometry and or magnet position.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you. As for the track being live, I use a device from Gaugemaster simply an LED which sits across the track and illuminates accordingly. The M7 has all wheels pickups, Allegedly. Your mention of. track geometry , I had more trouble with Peco large radius Electrofrog points than small radius points. Of the two entirely different planks they both have magnets between the rails, so why one magnet gets in the way and the other one doesn’t or why the small radius points don’t cause the M7 problems? Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

You really do need a multimeter not a track checker. Did you check the gauge? Or the coupler droop? When you place a straight edge across the magnet is it proud or below rail head? (power off of course). Are any wiring connections to the trailing bogie loose?

A multimeter would verify the last point.


Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you. In another reply, I tested the Locos on another plank/ module, and none of them had any problems passing over the 321 uncoupler, once that is I cleaned the track. Which sounds like Deja Vu?Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

All well and good but what about the one that doesn't work? Or is it working now?

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. Does it work? good question, simple answer, because I removed the magnet for closer inspection, I don’t know, but whilst it is up? I have another idea. Way back when, I had the idea of using a short length of code 100 with a code 75 transition track where the neodymium magnets were going to sit. I still have that track etc. it may not look so good as code 75, but here’s a challenge? Static Grass? I ‘m hoping that I can disguise the difference ( fat chance? ).. but I can dream. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

 So with the magnet up and out of the way does the M7 still stall? 

Nigel

Hi Nigel    Thank you again. I have been busy this morning but I will try it later and report back. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel.  Yet again another reply. I regret to say it still don’t have an answer for you, plenty of excuses though.I have purchased a new mobile phone, more worries, as I have often stated “ I am a technophobe “ what with trying to sort out my new mobile, trying to get a repeat prescription from my GP,  shopping, I tried the plank/module ready to test the M7, but the gremlins are back on that troublesome point, which was okay after I replaced it with a R/H point which apart from the standard modification, was new. I thought that I had enough Model Railways today.
Then a saviour phoned me, a Gentleman of this Parish. to help me solve my laptop problems, which is going great guns.   I will have to sleep 💤 on it.  Best wishes Kevin 

"Then a saviour phoned me, a Gentleman of this Parish. to help me solve my laptop problems, which is going great guns"



                      :thumbs

Hi Matt.  Thank you. That is how to get a TV to work. I have now given up TV Licence and all. More time to whack the layout. I have just been looking at the instructions for using a gadget to trace polarity problems, it worked before, I will try again?   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel.   An Addendum?    I do have a Multimeter, problem, I don’t know how to use it. Best wishes Kevin 

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Nigel.   An Addendum?    I do have a Multimeter, problem, I don’t know how to use it. Best wishes Kevin

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. I have looked at the YouTube video, but I cannot see anything about polarity testing.Unless the demonstrator used different words? I understand that all multimeters are different, I don’t know what I need on my multimeter to test for polarity. And I still don’t understand why I have two sets of points wired exactly the same way and one set is fine, where the other set has a short. ie two wires soldered to each side of the point and switch rail, one wire to the “bus” and the second wire to one terminal of the DPDT Slide switch (on both sides)
and the live frog wire, green in my wiring, going to the middle terminal. Best wishes Kevin