Goose neck lights are so called because of the double bend in the  mounting pole.  These only have one bend, but I can't think of a better  name for them.



Here is what I used.  I've done a few bends to show how the bender works.
I've used 2.0 mm OD brass tube and 3.0 mm OD brass tube for the bottoms.

Annealing the tube in the gas ring to cherry red makes it easier to bend.

The brass washers are 3.0 mm and 6.0 mm ID.  The LEDs are 3.0 mm 5000  mcd with 1 kΩ resistors.  We've got 0.5 mm plastic coated copper and 0.5  mm rainbow wire.



Pretty self explanatory, really.



The other end of the plastic coated wire is attached to the resistor and  then to the black (I know.  It looks brown), rainbow wire.



The washers are dropped over the inverted LED and CA glued in place.



A slot has been cut with a diamond Dremel wheel in the end of the bottom section of the pole.



And the red (+) wire is soldered in place and then tidied up with a file.



Another shot of the lamps.



The bottom tube is slid up over the resistor after the soldered joints have been coated with PVA.



And soldered in place.  A piece of shrink tubing anchors the red wire to the black.



The connections on the top of the LED are covered with PVA, using the fine tip applicator.



Completed.  Ready for painting.  Testing as I go.



Etch primed.  Ready for overpainting the top of the LED to keep the light in.





The wires are trimmed and soldered, ready for mounting.



My patent quick release connectors.



In place.



I'm happy with that.   

They look super Max & thanks for the blow by blow account of the construction  :doublethumb

Thanks, Tony.

Really good tutorial. Might have a go myself for some station and street lights.
Thanks

Steve

Thanks, Steve.

IHi Max Thank you for input realistic modelling Swan lights , Even I could follow instructions, finish looks great.

Best of Luck from a -3c South Wales U.K.

Noviceman

Thanks, David.

Excellent Max - even I can understand it - almost …………….. :???:

You said slide the bottom bit up to cover the resistor etc. and solder in place.  How thick is the plastic covering on the inner copper wire ?  It obviously doesn't melt otherwise you wouldn't do it but is it a case of in and out with the iron before you have time to blink ?

The end result look brilliant (pardon the pun) and I do like your "quick release" connectors.  :thumbs

As an aside, unfortunately, Anne Peak - who makes those wonderful "Fine Tip"  glue dispensers - has retired and stopped selling them.  I think there's something similar available from Metcalfe's Models ………………  I need some more myself.  :sad:

Hi Peter.  Thanks.

To tin the plastic coated copper wire, I just make a blob of solder on the iron and plunge the end of the wire into it.  That melts the plastic away and coats the copper at the same time, so it is heat sensitive.  However, there seems to be enough air space around it that doesn't appear to melt it when I solder the two pieces of tube together.

Yes.  Anne Peak is a sad loss to the modelling fraternity.  I bought a few of her applicators, so I hope not to have a problem.  Wendy has one in her studio as well.