Thread for discussion, Comments & Queeries

Please use this thread for all posts on the above article.

Thanks.

good start, i used bog standard stuff from the model shop till i found
out about local stone etc,it does make a difference.

:thumbs:lol::cool::lol::cool:

What a great idea Jeff, thanks for doing this. I have several "formations" that will need to be done that I can use this info on.

Wayne

A great post Jeff Thanks very much to Neill for allowing you to post it it will be a geat referance for all members whens the next instalment?

cheers Brian

Brian, I have all of the article on my PC, so it's just a matter of leaving enough time for people to catch up and ask questions before the next installment. As this section is a short "setting the scene" intro., I'll probably be able to post part 2 by Thursday evening.

Thanks to Niel for taking the time to write this up, it will prove a great tool for us all to use, and the first rule is

PLAN

 

As the first part of the article I posted was introductory theory, I have now posted the next section, which is an overall review of some of Neil's methods.

The next section will be posted at the end of the week and is the start of a more detailed look at the basics.

A very welcome article; thanks Neil for taking so much trouble with this posting.
Ken.

No worries guys.  I hope it's of use to you.

Just to let all of you know, I've just posted installment 3 of Neil's article. This is the start of his more detailed look at his methods and can be found here :-

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=2961&forum_id=8

Thanks so much Neil, You can bet I will be reviewing your article quite often as my layout progresses.

I'll need all the help I can get.

Wayne

Just to let everyone know that the next (and penultimate) installment of Neil's scenery article is now posted and this is the thread for discussing it further or asking questions.

Good stuff, Neil. It's interesting to see the commercially available trees compared. Some lovely work in there.
 I've used the Woodland Scenics long grasses and I quite like them, but the tiny and fine fibres irritate my eyes.

 Mike

This is a true master-class - and I have filed the thread independently on my desktop.

I, also, have had problems with WS field grasses - although haven't tried to cover a large area.  PVA is very slow to dry and support the clumps.  Someone has suggested a hot glue gun, but I haven't tried that method.

Thanks Neil all of this, and Jeff for managing the files!

Believe it or not, this article has thrown up the only disadvantage I've found with the WowUltra format.

Because Neil originally wrote his article for PPHB format, it arrived with me as a complete work with all the {bold} and size = markings inserted. A straight copy / paste onto the forum would not work, so I had to copy the whole thing into MS Word, delete all the bracketed directions, spellcheck it, re-capitalise all the headings etc. and then copy / paste onto the forum. Fortunately all the url links worked like a dream, but I needed to re-size and alter the typeface to match with the forum style.

No problem, that was a little effort that's been well repaid with an excellent tutorial, which I'm sure will be useful to members for many moons to come. :thumbs:thumbs  

 

 Nice one Jeff, you are not a 'Super Moderator' for nothing.

 What an interesting and informative series of articles this is

WELL DONE NEIL:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb

[user=5]rector[/user] wrote:

This is a true master-class - and I have filed the thread independently on my desktop.

I, also, have had problems with WS field grasses - although haven't tried to cover a large area. PVA is very slow to dry and support the clumps. Someone has suggested a hot glue gun, but I haven't tried that method.

Thanks Neil all of this, and Jeff for managing the files!

Super glue is best to attach field grasses.  The reason I have used pva is only because the grass is being used as water reeds and it is right next to cast epoxy resin.  The proximity of the cyanoacrylate creates a white coating on the surface of the epoxy resin.

 

So the rule is that where there is proximity to cast epoxy resin or plastic another form of adhesive is required.  I used PVA as this sets clear, which is ideal for the surface of water.  If You set your first row with cyano acrylate on the bank, you can use this as a support for the subsequent rows of pva glued reeds.

 

Thanks for the kind comments.  Hope this has been of help.  Hope it wasn't too much work converting this Jeff but it seems it has been appreciated.

Just a note to let all members know that I have just posted the final part of Neil's excellent scenery article. All replies, queeries etc to be posted in this thread. 

Enjoy.