A workmens' bothy

Just getting back to card modelling following a troublesome RSI caused by trying to cut 2mm grey board windows for a larger model [since failed the stamp test] I have researched various alternatives including balsa wood, and decided to go with 2mm 'Finnboard' .

http://www.modelshop.co.uk/Content/DynamicMedia/cms-uploaded/files/4D_guide-finnboard.pdf

Not the cheapest material on the market, and postage is relatively expensive, though it does arrive well packed in a rigid corrugated enclosure.

So, to try it out I have built the free RO24 Weighbridge and as usual, couldn't resist tweaking it with a rolled ridge tile detail, a little bench and scratch built leg-vice, see below.



It does make up nicely, although I'd prefer to do my own gutters and down pipes, the current run of models all seem to have the 'built-in' down pipes, I think an extra length allowance of one thickness of card plus two thicknesses of paper would have to be added to the length of the walls in order to make the roof etc. line up.

Has anyone tried to build a S'scenes model without the downpipes recently?

Best wishes,

Douglas

I think this is possibly the first time I've seen a leg vice modelled, although I've come across several real ones in old outbuildings around here.

My father in law was, among other things, a time served joiner called Doug, a farmer, missionary in Africa and later a woodwork teacher in secondary schools and used such devices on his father's building sites before the war and this little gem brings a big smile to my face.

I'm sure many of us are most happy to see you back to structure modelling Douglas and I hope it continues to bring you much pleasure, as I know it will to us.

Welcome back and bon courage,

Bill

Hi Douglas
A neat little building and I love the outside workbench.  I made the warehouse recently, that also has the "built in" down pipes.  Like you, I'm not a fan, so I left them out.  This wasn't a problem with the construction of the walls, but the it did create a problem with the floors and ceilings, which all had to be adjusted.  Not a huge problem, just a bit more work than if I had followed the plan.  I am making the medium station building at the moment, with the same issue.  However, as I am using different brick paper to the kit, it hasn't be a problem as I could keep all the dimensions the same - I just trimmed the layer that would have been the drain pipe to the same size as the other layers and covered with the brick paper, rather than the Scalescenes drainpipe.  I did the same with the layer that created the gutters, cutting it back to go flush to the wall so I could add my own guttering.

Regards

Michael

Hello Doug.  I recently made this building for my 'the art of compromise' thread.  In fact, I made it twice, once for the London Midland Region and once for the Southern Railway.  The projecting downpipes are only at one end of the building and are an extension of the interior wall which has the inside of the door printed thereon. On the first build of this model I trimmed the downpipes so that the overall width of the interior wall was exactly the same as the exterior end wall.  I then wrapped the brickwork from the end (door) wall around both walls to cover the join.
When making the second model I trimmed the interior wall back so that it was narrower than the side walls.  The side walls (window and chimney walls) were then butted up directly to the rear of the end (door) wall.  In neither case was it necessary to make any alterations to the roof length.


I hope that this makes sense.  I can post photos of the underside of both buildings if deemed necessary.


Best wishes.


Terry

Michael, Terry,

Thank you both for your posts, yes, they do make sense. I am currently trying to adapt the canal overbridge to be a river overbridge, the 'hump back' nature of the bridge needs taming to allow vehicular traffic, all very 'think, think, think' as Winnie the Pooh would have said. I believe John W. is hoPing to add more bridges to his stable, but placing and realising two bridges is essential if I am to progress Ursa Resurgant, so I can't really wait. Who knows, this self-isolation might end sooner rather than later!!!

Good luck with the adaptation.  I always have to make the model "as is" first, so I can see how it can be modified - and discover any pitfalls.
How did you get on with the Finn Board?  Was it easier to cut? Do you prefer it to grey board? Judging from your model, you were able to get super sharp edges and corners- very impressive as always with your card modelling.

Miichael

Michael,

Love Finnboard, apart from the price and postage. Had I been sure of myself and able to source a sample before ordering I would have bought enough to make postage worthwhile. Given a sharp blade, the cut edge seems almost to be polished. Caveat - 'end' grain, i.e. stacked elements á-la -S'Scenes, soak up a lot of glue and need pre-coating.

It takes watercolour very well, although absorbant, and stick adhesive soaks in and 'grabs' very quickly, so make sure you are on the ball with cover papers.I have taken to coating moderately lightly with stick adhesive, then, with a moistened finger, evening out this pre-glue layer before applying glue-sticked texture paper when I want to slide it about a bit.

Acrylic paint needs to let down with a little water if a moderate area is to be coated, otherwise it takes the moisture from the brush and rapidly starts to drag, I have discovered that letting down acrylic paint with very diluted P.V.A. forms a very resilient finish which will accept, in one coat, Humbrol enamels and full strenght acrylic. What I shall do with this new-won knowledge, I'm not so sure!

Given the comparative ease with which it cuts, [even with a feeble Swann & Morton No,11 blade,] its disadvantages above are well outweighed when achey arthritic wrists are written into the story. Adopting a S & M No.5a large plastic handle has certainly helped, as I can grasp it with more of my 'fist', and I can certainly feel less pain in my shoulder and elbow. With Stanley large and small snap-off knives, it is a doddle to cut.

 Douglas

P.s. I have a waste paper basket full of brightly coloured, expensive trial pieces, but I am happy I have found the ideal 2mm 'card' material.
 

Thank you Douglas for a detailed review….. I had seen it before, but not known anyone who had used it.   I think I will give it a go.  I have found grey board can vary a lot in quality, even when purchased from the same company.  It will also be interesting to see how my Cameo cutter gets on with it.
Many thanks for taking the time to answer my questions

Regards

Michael

[user=1512]Headmaster[/user] wrote:

Thank you Douglas …..  It will also be interesting to see how my Cameo cutter gets on with it.
Many thanks for taking the time to answer my questions

Regards

Michael

Your'e welcome, Michael, I will aslo be interested to see how your machine copes with the 2mm stuff, I have promised myself such a device if I could be sure it would cut out S'scenes stuff without too much faffing about…

Douglas

It won't do 2mm.  The deep cut knives can't cut right angles.  You could cut a square, but not one with windows.  I was thinking of getting the thinner card and laminating.  It adds to the cost, but is achievable.  Given your model making, I wouldn't bother, if you just want to cut card….. although in time it might be something you consider.
Michael

Thanks for that info, Michael. I've just bought 100 S&M No.11 blades so I better get on with using them….Oh, feeling faint now I've written the 'B' word :oops:
D