The last week has been cold and/or wet but generally, miserable here so I beat a hasty retreat from my train unit into the comfort of the house.

The incline between lower and upper levels requires some kind of bridging structure crossing the tracks on the opposite end of the unit to the "Wills" viaduct, which will cross the lift-up across the doorway.

After some deliberations, I settled on an 8 arch Scalescenes viaduct in brown brick.  I want to project an urban feel in this area - where, had it not been for the extensive railway features, one might have expected to see a few dark satanic mills …………….

The viaduct will sit on piers on this narrow piece of land between main lines and the loco servicing area with turntable tucked into the corner and its associated stub tracks :



Generally speaking, the kit is very straightforward to build although cutting 16 arches in 2mm grey board was somewhat taxing - and used up a whole year's supply of scalpel blades !!  This card certainly takes it's toll on cutting blades !!  I found that, after cutting 2, maybe 3 of the arches, I needed to change the blade.

These are the 2 arch assemblies required to make each "section".  At 4mm thick, they're pretty darned strong :




With just 3 other components, plus their respective "cover layers", this is what they make up into:



One simply adds more sections until the required length is achieved.  The first 3 of the 4 sections required are shown here :



What I did find extremely difficult was fitting the under arch sections and I tried several methods.  On the shot above, in the last but one arch, I have fitted the base layer first and intend to glue the cover layer on afterwards. This is contrary to the instructions but thought I'd maybe get better edge detail.   In most cases, I ended up with a very poor finish to the edges.  If anyone has any tips on how to achieve a better fitting, I'd be most grateful to hear them :



Only one further section to make and I'll have my 8 arch viaduct leaving just the deck, parapet walls and piers to fit before it's complete and ready to install. 

Moved here by me from the Maxmill thread ..................

Peter, I have downloaded and built many buildings and structures from Scalescenes and they are very good.
Like you, I find that 2mm card requires many passes to get through it with a number 10 blade.
Having built their tunnel, if I were to build the viaduct, given the strength of all the supports, I probably would have opted for 1mm card or card from a cereal packet for the arches. Much more pliable and and once glued in place to the 4mm sides it would probably be just as strong.
That said, my tunnel didn't have trains running over it. It does look good though, so worth all the hard work.

Do you mean 1mm card for under the arches Gary ?  If so, yes, that part is 1mm card.

The sides, the actual brick face and the backing 2nd layers are in 2mm card.  The backing piece is all strtaight cuts so no real problems there, it's cutting the curve of the arch in the 2mm facing card that itn't easy.  I use a Swan Morton scalpel with a No 11 blade for such cuts.  The annoying thing is, most of the blade is never used - just the very tip.  All the straight cuts are done with a 9mm snap-off blade knife or, on occasion, a big hefty old fashioned Stanley knife.

I did try cereal packets some time ago - as recommended by Chubber of this parish, but found that by the time I'd laminated it, the glue was costing more than the 2mm card, plus another half day waiting for it all to set.  I also had to rough up the shiney printed surface to give the glue something to key into.

I couldnt quite tell whether the arch cut was covered by the front cover layer or the underside. Given a choice I would have used the front cover layer…..lots of little cuts to allow for the curve and had the arch curve slightly proud of the underside.I  think trying to match the cut with the underside would be very difficult

Regardless it looks very good as it is….. I think when you have added some weathering and perhaps ivy/creepers as camouflage you will be pleasantly surprised with the overall effect.
Do you have a second holder for the scalpel blades? I have three and try to rotate the blades. #1 is used only for the initial scribing and is eventually downgraded to #2 which does the repeated cuts. #3 is for Doreen when she wants to borrow one to cut string!

Hi Peter
I  had exactly the same problem with my Scalescenes bridge at Faversham opted to do exactly what you suggest.  I made the bridge up, then add the cover to under arch and then did the front covers.  Not only was it easier to make, but I got a neater finish (I had made a single section as a test, following the instructions, and just couldn't get it right.

In fact, I foolishly got plaster on one of the arches when do the creek scene which rather showed, even after letting it dry.  I tried to disguise it with some weathering powders, but that didn't work.  However, I simply printed off another cover, cut it out and glued it over the top.  I don't think it is easy to spot which was replaced….




Michael

I had to laugh at the vision of Doreen cutting string with your discarded scalpels John ………………

Joking aside, I remember you've mentioned that before  - an excellent idea and why I hadn't cottoned on when you first mentioned it, heaven knows.  I wonder what Brexit taxes they'd conjure up for a couple of Swann Morton handles ………. :roll:

Regarding the cover layers, the instructions show the 1mm arch underside base layer sitting between the sides. Its cover layer has an overhanging edge overhang designed to be stuck to the viaduct side lip where the arch was removed ……    The print doesn't allow for the type of overlap you describe but, on reflection, I think your method may well be preferable but would require a redesign of the print.  Trying to make right angle butt  joints in paper on a perhaps less than perfect curve is extremely difficult.

My problem has been keeping the base layer exactly aligned with the edge of the arch without squashing up the paper overhang - I've been more successful without the cover layer glued on but now have to fit that cover layer avoiding any stretch or bubbles etc.  :hmm  I wonder if a good soak in wallpaper starch paste might do the job ….although the colours might run and the paper is very thin …………… :roll:

For the final unit, I'm adding some card locating strips 1mm back from the arch edge creating a ledge for the arch base layer to sit against.  I hope that might make things easier to line up.

Does that make any kind of sense ?  I know what I mean but describing it ………………….. :???: :???: :???:

Hi Michael - thanks for your input.

Let me get my head around how you built yours………………….. :hmm

Are you saying, in effect, you built your bridge as bare card, then added the under-arch cover layer and finally, the cover layers to the bridge sides …………?  In fact, you built the bridge then "wallpapered" it ???   :shock:

Exactly that Peter.  Then I added the detailing afterwards.  I could use the glue (I used the usual glues stick, but Rocket Card Glue at the edges) to "seal" the join and a sharp blade to trim things up if I needed to.  Obviously not the way one is "supposed" to do these things, but it stopped me cursing and getting gluey fingers all over the cover papers!
Michael

I should say, with this particular bridge, there is no real advantage to gluing the covers first.  It is basically an arch and a facing wall…. so why not build it and then add those afterwards, I said to myself……  I speak to myself a lot at home, it's the only way I can guarantee intelligent conversation!
Michael

[user=1512]Headmaster[/user] wrote:

….., I said to myself……  I speak to myself a lot at home, it's the only way I can guarantee intelligent conversation!
Michael

 

I do that but often get into a disagreeable discussion with myself because the other person talking, is then called an idiot coz he made a mistake and away it goes … !!  :oops:   I then go inside & make a coffee & we are then all good  ( until the next time)  

Anyway I do like your idea Michael of building the viaduct  bare then "wall papering it " at the end.

[user=1512]Headmaster[/user] wrote:

……………………………………………………………… I speak to myself a lot at home, it's the only way I can guarantee intelligent conversation!
Michael

Strange as it may seem, I win all the arguments when I talk to myself but the other guy can be a right PITA at times...................... :roll:

Yep!

Michael

And I thought it was just me that had these fascinating one on one conversations :lol:

Having read and inwardly digested the help and advice about the arch inner panels, I decided I'd add the last 2 panels "unpapered" but also thought it would be easier to have something to locate the card against rather than a simple edge joint.

I added some card gussets between the arch apex and side pillars where there are already locating edges.  These are set back (approximately) 1mm from the cut face, the arch underside base layer being 1mm card.  With hindsight, I could have spent a little more time and care to get an exact 1mm ledge but we'll see how it works out :




I was keen to tackle this viaduct before returning to the Wills clad version at the other end of the unit.  I've learnt quite a lot about how to build viaducts and the Wills sheets are nothing like as forgiving as card plus, I won't be able to simply print off another sheet if I make a real pigs ear of it ……………..

Hopefully, this will have solved the earlier alignment problems and adding the cover layer afterwards rather than before won't be too difficult ……………..

When you "wallpapered" yours Michael, did you use ordinary card glue/Pritt sticks to fix the cover layers ?  I find with glue sticks, one can't hang around too long before it dries ………………

I wish I had thought of that!  Should work well.  I remember that I fixed the inner arch panel to one wall only, and kept the curve using an elastic band or a piece of string (I didn't have enough elastic bands of a suitable size) and then weighted the joint by balancing a something on the open under arch.  I used an oblong sharpening stone as I could get it to balance and it had a decent weight to it.  Once they were dry, I added the opposite facing wall.  It worked for me, but I'm not saying it is the best way to do it.
Michael