Something we discovered at our last exhibition - as a quick track cleaner I used a couple of those use-once throw away spectacle/glass cleaners (box of 50 from Lidl, Aldi etc) they are pre-moistened with IPA or similar and the paper composition doesn't leave bits behind, and non abrasive.

Worth keeping a few in the portable tool box for going to shows.

Shaun.

Thanks, Shaun.

A good one.   :thumbs

Are these a bit like "wet-wipes" Shaun ?

Not quite, Peter. I think wet wipes and similar disposable cleaning aids probably contain soaps/lanolin/antiseptics and other chemicals that may leave deposits on the track - also the tissue fabric on wet wipes seems to be softer and prone to shred.

These are the cleansers I use (in emergency, or as a last resort):



The carrier paper has more of the consistency of 'Bronco'!

HTH
Shaun.

Hi Shaun,

Just had a look at my "pre-moistened lens wipes": water, isopropyl alcohol (IPA), anti-fog (?), anti-static agents (?). Anti-fogs are commonly surfactants, usually hydrophilic polymers, anti-statics are a veritable witches brew, usually organic bases. Rather than coat the rails with soap I use a piece of microfiber cloth (used to clean laptop and flat panel TV screens, I grab it before my wife bins it) and a mister containing neat IPA (not rubbing alcohol) from the pharmacy. Much cheaper, and the microfiber cloth does not shed. I avoid contact with ballast by using a small block of wood around which the cloth is wrapped. I also use a swiffer to get rid of dust. You should be able to get microfiber cloths from the local car cleaning supplies store. Is Halfords still around?

Nigel

In the UK you can get packs of MicroFibre cloths (4-5 in each pack) from Poundland and other pound stores.

Hi i use a 70% IPA which i can get free from work in a dapol track cleaning wagon 

What's a good thing to use on steel rail track that went years without proper cleaning?

That's a question that can get you twenty answers, All different   :)  
The first one would probably be dont bother, bin it and get nickel silver, followed by "how bad is it ? 

I have done it in the past, when I first returned to the hobby and couldn't afford any new track. It ranged from not to bad to very dirty, coroded, pitted. I started with a track rubber to do a first clean and remove as much surface grunge as possible, On the better sections I then went over it with a cloth dipped in brasso (a very very fine liquid metal polish) then buffed it up using hardboard cut in to 2" x3" squares, used rough side down which helps remove any remaining residue. These days I would finish this off with a wipe over of Isopropyl Alcohol which helps to stop Oxidation of the track and really cuts down on neccessary cleaning. Back then I just re cleaned as neccessary with a track rubber (begger of a job over an awkward loft layout)   
  For heavily pitted track (after trying the track rubber) I used 1200 grit wet and dry paper to take off as much as possible but this does scratch the metal surface so then you go over with the brasso to polish out the scratches, then hardboard. I warn you though if its a lot of track, cleaning it is not for the faint hearted !

PS. For those not aware, brasso is also a secret weapon used to buff out  scratches in an acrylic bath and buff up an enamel bath to return that 'new bath shine'  BUT. BUT. BUT. DONT try this on a coloured bath unless its almost beyond redemption and you are prepared to replace it anyway and if you are going to do it on any bath, try a small patch first to see if it has any adverse effects. An electric car buffer (used with the brasso) will save an awfull lot of elbow grease

Cheers

Matt

400, 800, 1200, 2000 w/d. 800-1200 doesn't affect adhesion. Brasso contains pumice and limestone for scratch removal, along with a bunch of other quite nasty chemicals for tarnish removal. The modern version is apparently not as good as the old one in the metal can.

Nigel