We've all done it, battery drill/driver, too fast, too carelessly and BBBbbbbrrrrrrr! An interestingly countersunk drill head. Possibly an egg-sucking exercise, I hope this tip might save you some time and frustration.

Simply Dremel a fine slot across the head and use a beefy straight screwdriver. [Don't go too deep or it may shear off.]



If it is in a prominent position, align the cut with the grain and repar wiith suitable filler, I find the same woods sawdust and PVA does nicely.

Poop-poop!

Doug

Best not to use screws.  Drill bigger pilot holes if you do. Set the torque low on the drill. New bit helps, they don't last forever.
Nigel

I have used Doug's trick a few times myself; it works a treat in most cases.

I was recently rebuilding an old student notebook at school (actually making one good one out of two), but one of the screws holding the motherboard stripped. Unfortunately, it was also in a deep recess, so this method was out of the question because I needed to preserve the casing in good condition (the other notebook had a damaged casing but a good motherboard - it would not have mattered if this had occurred in that one!).

If it really is that important then gluing in a sacrificial Pozidrive bit with two part epoxy can help. It may well come off with a bit of BF&I (brute force and ignorance)!
Douglas

In situations with more lightly loaded small screws used in non structural situations, I use a layer of thin rubber, such as an elastic band over the damaged screw head, to enable applied pressure from the driver head to be distributed to the screw. It usually works a treat.
Bill

Cutting a slot also works with hexagon socket head screws (allen screws) when they have been damaged.

One of the best and easiest ways to do it is

The hand impact driver on screws that have been in place for a long time internal and external ones.

Get a good posi screwdriver with good solid handle on it place blade into head hold it there then with a hammer bang the end of the screwdriver handle whilst applying anti clockwise pressure to the screwdriver.
That actually in most cases work better than using a power impact driver i know as i have to do it quite often.

Brian

Has anyone tried those "screw extractor" bits one sees advertised.  They claim to remove most damaged screws …………

I too tend to use the "hammer effect" Brian.  Seems to loosen the grip of the threads, however, I'm not sure I'd use it on a delicate model railway ……………..  Having said that, I doubt there would be that need once the layout is built …………..

The Dremel slot is a useful tip Doug.  :thumbs

Yes Peter but it depends on the situation. Must have the right size (Murphy had something to say about that) then it must "bite" into the screw to be removed. Have found them excellent at times but on smaller hard drive screws not so good.

So, on balance Andrew, do you think they're worth buying ?

I've often thought I might press the "buy" button when I've seen them advertised but to date, I've resisted ………………

if it's sticking out as much as that picture  I tend to put a set of mole grips on and unwind it.. But yes dremeling if it's all the way in..