Electrics. DCC
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Decoder fitting
Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply . I understand that, and couldn't make how a modeller made a comment about soldering a Decoder directly to either side of the suppressor. Going back to the permanently coupled wagon idea I haven't done anything about that yet, but my latest Pug a L&Y type with BR early logo( Lion and Wheel) has the motor in the cab, I am hoping that there is space under the boiler for a decent brand of Decoder , the cab pops off by depressing the underside clips, but I don't know how to remove the boiler, have you done one of these???All the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Sorry, no (the pug or the M1). If you go to the TCS website they have a how to do it for the Pug. You only need to remove the cab. It's in the installation pictures menu, HO conversions, Hornby.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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All the best. Kevin
Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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It actually is that easy. Disconnect the leads to the motor, attach to the decoder wires (black and red) using solder/heat shrink), connect the orange and grey from the decoder to the motor terminals. Get rid of the suppression capacitors, they could mess around with the feedback that TCS uses. You need a pointy iron tip, practice using some scrap bits of wire and heat shrink.
It's surprising how much space wire takes, you need the minimum between the decoder and the locomotive. I always use heat sinks (metal clothes pegs) on the wires, and twist them together to test before soldering up. Don't forget to slide the heat shrink on before soldering, bit difficult after.
nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Cheers
Matt
Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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