When you have built your baseboards, 12 mm plywood, do you need to seal both top and bottom with varnish. I will be topping them off with 1/8 th of an inch of cork glued down with either PVA or if I can find it in time, maybe copydex as mentioned by Chinahand.

Cheers

Toto

I've used white shellac on my baseboards Toto.  It actually seals the wood.  I read somewhere that paint doesn't seal.  No need to paint the top after sealing since it will be covered with the layout.  I would paint the underside white - this will help to see what you are doing when trying to find that da#mned fault.
My plans for baseboards when I build my next layout (whenever that is :roll:) are as follows:

 a:  tops to be very good both sides 3/8" ply (1/2" is too heavy and 1/4" is too wimbly)
b:  ends to be 4" x 1/2" birch ply (to connect with adjacent baseboards using C&L steel dowels)
c:  sides to be bog standard 4" x 1/2 ply (the stuff that's full of filler and thus light - it only has to resist bending).


 I've had the wood for ages, got it cut at the lumber merchant (I have a phobia about power saws :shock:)


John

Thanks for that. Good idea with the white paint on the underside.

I was looking at 12 mm ply but as you say, probably too heavy, maybe nearer 9 mm would do.

I haven't bought the ply yet so no problem. My " shed builder" said he would pick it up for me from the merchants as I don't have a van at my disposal. He'll also get it cheaper

Cheers

Toto

Hi Tom,i gave my baseboards a couple of coats of varnish,don't forget the edges.When you come to ballast your track you will use quite a bit of water/pva to fix it provided you will using conventional ballast.There will be other times when fluids come into contact with your baseboard so it gives you some protection,also it stops moisture getting into the wood and damaging it.I also covered my boards with emulsion paint,green in my case but greys or browns will do.This just gives a base colour to start with and gets rid of the bare wood colour.I bet you're getting excited now.

Hi Toto

I'm using 6mm MDF and gave the top a coat of grey primer/undercoat for the same reasons Spurno has outlined.

Not using cork though, as the track is going straight on the board, so if I miss bits when doing the scenery the grey showing through won't be quite as obvious.

(At least, that's the theory)


Ed

Hi Toto,

When you get onto track laying, keep that sealer handy for painting the edges of the baseboard where you need to cut/drill holes for your Cobalt point motors. As has been stated, don't forget to paint all edges, especially with ply as that is probably the area where moisture will do more damage. As you have stated, your boards will be completely covered with cork, don't think for one moment that the cork, secured PVA or Copydex will 'waterproof' the top of the baseboard.

Tip, use a Tile glue spatula to spred PVA or Copydex evenly on your baseboard. Roll cork on from one end of the baseboard, rolling a piece of dowel or a rolling pin to help level out. I had used several albums (vinyl, not cds) to weigh down for 24 hours.



Cheers, Gary.

Cheers Gary,

I'll seal the baseboards completely before laying the cork on top. I'll try and make sure that I don't make the boards to tight a fit, leaving  a fraction for expansion as well.

I've seen the spreaders in my DIY store so I think I'll invest in one this weekend. I'll see how far I get this weekend. I've also booked Monday off to give me three days to get in about it. Baseboards, sealing and possibly first fix of the 240 volt mains electrics. We'll see.

Cheers again.

Toto

Hi guys
Can you clarify that on top of the baseboard goes a layer of varnish, then a layer of paint, then the cork?


Thanks


Tom

Hi Tom,sealing the baseboard with varnish stops any moisture entering the baseboard.If you are using cork,this goes down next.The paint,emulsion, is a basecoat for any grass,scatter or buildings.Use earth colours,greens,browns etc.Any areas not covered by the cork can also be painted.

Thanks Alan, is there a varnish of choice to do this?


Regards


Tom

Doesn't matter,matt or gloss.Don't forget to seal the edges.

If you use a water based varnish you don,t need to buy thinners to clean the brush afterwards, once the varnish has dried it will be water proof, have fun :).


Pete. 

Two coats of acrylic paint/primer is enough to prevent moisture penetration. Use bathroom/kitchen grade to be sure. I get the paint mixed up with twice the amount of pigment. Just ask for it.
Nigel

Hi
The top of my baseboard is covered with Daler board, will varnish be ok to use on this?


Regards


Tom

Hi Alan.   Regarding varnish , I read that the first coat has to be diluted, is that with “white spirits”? ( turps substitute).Also somewhere , I read that instead of diluting the first coat? using a cheap varnish , from the pound shop , that is thinner will do the job. But then I read so many opinions on “YouTube “ I don’t know what to believe anymore . Best wishes. Kevin

Paint will last a lot longer than varnish,  I've got a  lot of varnish on a boat I know from experience! !!!thinning paint to soak in for a first coat is a good idea.  
Unless you live in an extremely humid area then ply really doesn't need it, at most just the edges. though mdf and sundela do need full coverage. if your layout is in a house  your central Heating will do the job without painting.
White paint is definitely  a better idea beneath to help seeing what you are doing.. 

Generally thinner cheaper varnishes have more thinner in them as its cheaper than the "body" of paint or varnish. 
You have to look at the can to see whether thinner / white spirit or water is required… 

Hi Q . Thank you for your reply. The ply that I am using is thin, for reasons of manoeuvrability. Plus the fact that I had some leftover varnish( waste not want not scenario ) mind you I also have some black paint. Now I am spoilt for choice . Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Q. Thank you , but this is another reply.  Virgin Plywood , do I use Primer first? Then Undercoat, followed by aTopcoat  . Of course allowing each coat to dry before I paint the next coat???  Best wishes. Kevin

Ah well, if you have the varnish, definately, waste not want not, I do that a lot..






My comment to primers + undercoats + top coats, is you are not doing a exterior grade door, or my boat for which I would do the above with a light sanding between. ( and probably more top coats)








You are only sealing the board to prevent moisture getting in, the underside and top of a model railway which will never be seen again.








If you haven't already bought any of the above, just topcoat thinned for the first layer, followed by a top coat second layer.









 Ply will happily accept a thinned top coat to soak in, I'm talking of normal exterior or gloss paint, using a "one coat" thinned is defeating the object of the stuff they put in the tin..






 if you get a nice smooth shiny gloss on the top you are going to have difficulty getting, all the layers of railway scenics to stick!!!

Hi Q.  Thank you again.  I had the remains of a tin of very dark varnish , which I used on the Inglenook, and I kept ripping up the track, which was stuck down “ hard and fast”. And I wasted too much Track . I also have the remains of a tin of  Sadolin  three in one satin”. Which was laughed at by club members , but, it went on and stayed on.
Best wishes  Kevin