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Not expecting any curves whatsoever . I have read, mistakenly or otherwise that the code 75 asymmetric point was “ like a left hand point laid on top of a right hand point, much simpler than the original code 100 point.
That is true Kevin re the Code 75 3 way asymmetric turnout like a left hand turnout laid on top of a right hand turnout but you will still need some curves for any turnout to get parallel tracks.
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Ron
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I had a look at the dimensions of the three way and got my Peck track gauge out. With only 2.5-3" Ron's pictures show how much space you need. I think you may well be off the board or right on the edge. I would go diagonal with a slight curve coming out of the tunnel. You need to be able to get your fingers between parked stock. The exit from the scenic plank I am working on is not in the middle, so it gets a curve and runs diagonal. I gained a bit of room by using the symmetrical code 100 three way. I'll probably use code 100-code 83 rail joiners.
Nigel
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Ron
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Peck, my Kindle has a mind of its own. Peco of course. Easier to use than a ruler and it sets the correct spacing.
Ron is right, by the time the curves are added to get it parallel you will be left with about 2-2.25 feet of the board for the sidings. Given the proximity of the three way right hand track to the edge you might be better off with a small radius LH followed by a small radius RH. The only thing that changes with the Peco design is the length, you will still have the same length curves to deal with to get it parallel. You will save quite a few inches by using the three way. It really is a case of laying the track on the board, using a ruler and pencil, and seeing what works.
You could put that the first part of a reverse curve in the scenic board, the second on the fiddle yard. That would at least move it in a bit. Or start the three way immediately after the first curve and run it diagonally.
I use short #4 turnouts which save a lot of space.
Nigel
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Ron
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As Ron says, a number 4 turnout refers to the front angle. Peco small, medium and large radius points are from memory all around #6, smaller angle, more space required. As you go from small to large the length of the points increases. Different philosophy to other brands.
Shinoharah did at one time do points with frog #2.5, #3 and #4, ideal for narrow gauge or contractors. Or tight spaces. I've just done a code 83 #4 wye, I will be doing a couple of #4 regular turnouts and probably a #4 stub. I do use commercial offerings, Micro Engineering do some nice On30 code 83 #5 turnouts which I have to hand, and I will be using a Peco symmetrical three way code 100 in the fiddle yard. No idea of the frog number, but it is less than 8" long. I
It is important to determine what the ruling radius will be, long bogie stock or 6-coupled steam locomotives need decent radii, otherwise interesting things happen, such as buffer lock or derailment. Plus I am a bit leary of having points within 6" of a curve or baseboard joint.
Nigel
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From what I remember all Peco points (code 83 excepted) have the same frog, which is about a #6. makes manufacturing easy. Designed really for set track layouts. Short, medium, and long refers to the closure rail radius, that is why the points are different with respect to length. What this means in practice is that they are very forgiving with respect to wheel set back to backs, and that the curves for getting the exit track parallel are the same (that set track design). Where you save space is on the length of the points (again, from memory 8, 10 and 12 inches or there abouts). The asymmetrical gains space by squeezing two turnouts together. You can do this yourself and save a few inches. The symmetrical gains even more by having the left and right hand points opposite each other.
Unless you use sector plates, turntables or cassettes fiddle yards need the siding length plus a couple of feet for the points.
Nigel
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Ron
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Rather than watching paint dry this evening I was looking at my track plan (I use CorelDraw for this sort of thing) to see what I needed to allow for with that Peco symmetrical three way on the fiddle yard (for starters I was going with 4' but 5' or even 6' would be better!), as the track does not exit the scenic board in the middle. While I was at it I had a quick look to see how that asymmetrical three way would fit on your track plan. I downloaded the Peco point plans, pasted then into the software and resized as appropriate (I use 1":1').
I used a track center of 2". If you use 2.75" (advisable, more space to get fingers in) then the space between the track and the edge of the board will be less.
If you have 4" from the edge of the scenic board to the center of the current track it will work. Just. More would be good, less would be problematic. Leaving 2" from the edge of the fiddle baseboard to the start of the points (again not advisable but if you have the WIT on the top it should be OK) I came up with the following:
For a 2" track center, the edge of the RHS siding sleepers will be around 1.3" from the edge of the board. Risky IMO, but OK if you use an edge. The usable part of sidings will be about 2.6' long. The radius to connect the RHS and LHS sidings it to the points is about 3.25'.
You could put a LH point immediately after the three way on the LHS to give you 4 sidings.
For a 2.75" track center, the edge of the RHS siding sleepers from the edge of the board is about 0.7". :Red Card! Very risky IMO.
Best bang for the buck is if you have the three way on the diagonal, using a short piece of curved track at the start of the fiddle board (3.25' radius, 2" long) or even starting on the scenic board and running across the board junction which would allow a greater radius (4" would allow you to use a 6.5' radius, less risk of derailments),
Two short radius LH turnouts only give you around 2' of siding. Didn't check wyes, too many curves for my liking.
As I said, use pencils, tape/ruler/compass/protractor and some 1/10 graph paper to plan it out. Better than trying to eyeball it. You can actualy do this in MS Word or Powerpoint using the drawing tools. The asymmetrical three way is 10.75" long by around 2.8" wide at the widest (sleeper edge to sleeper edge). The symmetrical one is 8.66" long, same width. Both are medium radius.
You should be able to download the sheets from Peco to the iPad (they are all pdf files) and stick them in Word or Powerpoint, where they can be resized.
Cassettes or traversers are actually better, gives almost the full length of the board for storage. Difficult in your case as the track in and out is at the front edge of the board.
Hope the above helps you in the planning.
Nigel
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