Handy 12 way connector
#133691
(In Topic #7100)
Full Member
This might be useful, whether you travel with your layout or not……
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/50/category/116
Doug
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/50/category/116
Doug
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil…' Aesop's Fables
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
Legacy Member
It might indeed Doug. I'll stick that link in the Equipment Index. Cheers.
Inactive Member
I was looking at the exact same thing in JayCar, our electronic hobbies shop, only yesterday. They are really well made and they look like they will stand a lot of use.
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
Full Member
I can thoroughly recommend these as well. I use them extensively on my layout for interconnections wherever I might want to take something apart such as my signal gantry connections, and lift up baseboard sections, as well as many other places.
They can also be found here:-
http://www.allcomponents.co.uk/product/screw-terminal-block-plug-and-socket-11699.html
and at half the price here:-
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/6A-12-Pole-Plug-and-Socket-Terminal-Block-500713
They can also be found here:-
http://www.allcomponents.co.uk/product/screw-terminal-block-plug-and-socket-11699.html
and at half the price here:-
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/6A-12-Pole-Plug-and-Socket-Terminal-Block-500713
Legacy Member
I have changed the links in the Equipment Index to reflect the cheaper model. No point in paying more than we have to. I don't know if this is a new item on the market but it's the first time I have come across it.
Site staff

I first saw them at a Victorian Country Model Rail Exhibition about 6 years ago and when the Club I am involved with, dcecided on module connectors, I recommended that style to be used as well for connecting the train power to the modules & the control panel as both power & control are designed for removal when packing the modules into a trailer.
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Full Member
I have used them on my exhibition layouts for years! they have never let me down,even if you don't push the contacts all the way home.
James
Legacy Member
I agree, we used them when I worked at Chubb Alarms and that was back in the 70's. They work very well and are ideal for all sorts of interconnection issues across a layout.
Glad to see a link to Rapid as they are a good supplier. I got mine from RS Components.
Thanks Doug for bringing them to everyones attention.
Glad to see a link to Rapid as they are a good supplier. I got mine from RS Components.
Thanks Doug for bringing them to everyones attention.
Last edit: by gordons19
Full Member
Do I get a prize for longevity - we started to use them around 30 years ago for "on site" detonator connections in firework displays. An excellent product and can be plugged and unplugged countless times.
Alternatively, twisting the wires together was both very quick and "free". It worked well provided your hands weren't too cold. A quick "insulate" of the join (to prevent premature detonation :roll::roll:) with masking tape also worked well - except when it was wet and the tape wouldn't stick !!! These very handy "socket and plug" sets, which we cut up into single pairs, solved the problem until we discovered silicone filled (and thus waterproof) telephone wire crimp connectors. Of course you can't re-use the crimp connectors but at around 1p each, it's no big deal.
Alternatively, twisting the wires together was both very quick and "free". It worked well provided your hands weren't too cold. A quick "insulate" of the join (to prevent premature detonation :roll::roll:) with masking tape also worked well - except when it was wet and the tape wouldn't stick !!! These very handy "socket and plug" sets, which we cut up into single pairs, solved the problem until we discovered silicone filled (and thus waterproof) telephone wire crimp connectors. Of course you can't re-use the crimp connectors but at around 1p each, it's no big deal.
'Petermac
Site staff

Hi all
Just found this thread and it may well solve my problem.
I am still in the early building stage and continually changing how the layout will be controlled, wired etc.
After laying track for a passing loop (twice) and temporarily attaching some wires to switches, I realised the control panel area I was thinking of using would end up looking like an electrician's nightmare!
I had decided that a more formal box type structure control panel/mimic board was needed and was scratching my head as how to connect to the layout.
I was looking at all sorts of plug and socket combinations, but using choc-blocks as plugs/sockets had never entered my head.
Well done chaps, and many thanks.:cool:
I'll let you know how I get on.
Ed
Just found this thread and it may well solve my problem.
I am still in the early building stage and continually changing how the layout will be controlled, wired etc.
After laying track for a passing loop (twice) and temporarily attaching some wires to switches, I realised the control panel area I was thinking of using would end up looking like an electrician's nightmare!
I had decided that a more formal box type structure control panel/mimic board was needed and was scratching my head as how to connect to the layout.
I was looking at all sorts of plug and socket combinations, but using choc-blocks as plugs/sockets had never entered my head.
Well done chaps, and many thanks.:cool:
I'll let you know how I get on.
Ed
Full Member
These are very useful but can be a bit stiff to disconnect when you have more than a couple of pins connected. In the UK they are usually available at model railway exhibitions from the ubiquitous stand selling tools and electrical bits.
Terry
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
Full Member
They're also available here, as are some other "useful" gadgets.
http://modelscape.net/
Usual disclaimer - just a satisfied customer although Ian is probably known to most of you as a model railway author and was also a member here.
http://modelscape.net/
Usual disclaimer - just a satisfied customer although Ian is probably known to most of you as a model railway author and was also a member here.
'Petermac
Site staff

Thanks guys.
I think I might try something like Martin's suggestion first, but use solid copper wire as opposed to code 75 rail.
All I want to be able to do is bring the control panel in-doors to solder up switches LEDs etc and then take it back in to the garage where they layout is being built and plug it in. Means I can sit in comfort to do the soldering and the garage is quite dark even with fluorescent lighting.
It's not going to be continually unplugged once it's finished so doesn't need to be anything too robust or expensive.
Talking of expense, getting really annoyed at postal charges where you end up paying the same or more than the cost of the item(s). Still, perhaps that's a good subject for another thread.
Ed
I think I might try something like Martin's suggestion first, but use solid copper wire as opposed to code 75 rail.
All I want to be able to do is bring the control panel in-doors to solder up switches LEDs etc and then take it back in to the garage where they layout is being built and plug it in. Means I can sit in comfort to do the soldering and the garage is quite dark even with fluorescent lighting.
It's not going to be continually unplugged once it's finished so doesn't need to be anything too robust or expensive.
Talking of expense, getting really annoyed at postal charges where you end up paying the same or more than the cost of the item(s). Still, perhaps that's a good subject for another thread.
Ed
Site staff

Well I got there in the end (sort of).:hmm
I got the choc-blocks from 'the bay' at £1.98 for three, really cheap but not great quality, a couple of individual sockets had duff threads.
It's really surprising how many wires are needed just for a few switches.
Ignore the writing on the back it was just for my info (I know AC doesn't have +ve and -ve)
Contact, bit messy but it works.
I'll probably make a better control panel later but at least I can now lay some track, connecting and checking connectivity as I go.
Thanks again for the idea.
Ed
I got the choc-blocks from 'the bay' at £1.98 for three, really cheap but not great quality, a couple of individual sockets had duff threads.
It's really surprising how many wires are needed just for a few switches.
Ignore the writing on the back it was just for my info (I know AC doesn't have +ve and -ve)
Contact, bit messy but it works.
I'll probably make a better control panel later but at least I can now lay some track, connecting and checking connectivity as I go.
Thanks again for the idea.
Ed
Full Member
I've been using DIY chocbloc like this for years, instead of using rail I use copper wire from stripped mains cable (easier to cut than rail), I can see it being a PITA tightening/loosening screws for a larger portable layout but for small or more permanent use the DIY version should be adequate.
Cheers MIKE
I'm like my avatar - a local ruin!
I'm like my avatar - a local ruin!
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