Remember these ??

Why was it that with Meccanno you could never find the nuts and bolts, unless you were running around with bare feet and trod on one.

[user=1235]60019Bittern[/user] wrote:

Why was it that with Meccanno you could never find the nuts and bolts, unless you were running around with bare feet and trod on one.

so what`s changed with railway modelling? that`s how I find my super detail bits!!
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

Triang Flying Scotsman

Triang Princess Elizabeth

Triang Brush Type 2 Diesel and Steeple cab with working pantograph

[user=1761]Ianvolvo46[/user] wrote:

…

Unfortunately I realize there is no chance of running them through Peco points but one day ….just one day they might get a layout of their own as I also brought a a lot of track. Once I've dug them out I'll submit some pictures on the thread.

Ian

Hi Ian
Unless you are running code 83, you can regauge Triang wheels and get them through points. You simply tap the drivers from the  insulated side and space the carriage wheel sets. I regauged several locos and freight cars for club members, the oldest of which was a mid 50's Princess Victoria… if you need to know more PM me,

Regards

Trevor

Good morning? Trevor many thanks for the tips, oddly enough I brought with me a gauge and centre punch but hadn't considered the remedy you suggested excellent! Will let you know how I get on once my layout is complete.

Regards Ian

Hello Ian

It is 8pm Saturday here and I have not had a nana nap for a week in fact!

To outline the correspondence I had with Ian for the benefit of any others watching these posts…

It is good if you have an NMRA track gauge or similar, but not totally necessary.

Get a hammer and small centre punch. You will see where the insulating  bush is on the side where the wire pick up goes to. Lay the loco that  side up and gently tap the axle. Triang wheel sets are only under gauge  by about 3/4mm so it does not need much of a tap and use your Peco point  to check it goes through by pushing the loco through it. It really needs to be pushed as driving it through under power will not help you feel if it is or its not binding whereas if you power the loco,  the loco may "jump" and get through it but in the long term damage the points, If it goes  through without hitting or binding on the check rail, you are OK. I can  do an illustration to demonstrate later if you need it.

With the split axle rolling stock simply use margarine lid plastic, drill  a hole and make a set of crude washers, cut them crudely round and slit  it so it can be splayed onto the axle. Two per axle should do it and  the shape and weights are such that there should be no out of balance component.

With pony trucks on steam locos simply prise and re-gauge.

You may have to re tension your pick up spring to ensure the contact to the wheels on your locos. Perhaps the Steeple cab electric would be a good one to try first with only two axles…

Regards

Trevor

The man's a genius, watch this space.

Ian

Remember my first train set, Triang 'Princess Elizabeth'+ 2 blood and custard coaches. My ]younger brother got a Jinty and some goods wagons and my Dad set up a 4'x6' board with a passing loop and 2 sidings!! Must have been about 1958 or 59 I think!

Cheers
Ron

Please note the alteration to the explanatory text as to why you need to push the loco… even if the wheels don't move!

Cheers

Trevor

Thanks for this Trevor. I've some beat up old examples of triang with sentimental more than monetary value but I've never thought to check their back to back guage. If you have the time to put up some illustrations I'm sure they would be useful as a reference to myself and others going forward


Cheers

   Matt

The centre punch is a good idea for regauging, but I have usually just used two flat-bladed screwdrivers (one each side of the axle) to lever the wheels outwards slightly on the axles. If I accidentally overdo this, a (very!) light tap with a small hammer (usually my track pin hammering one) will restore the setting.

There is one unit I own that still won't run through the newer Peco code 100 points. That one is a very early Triang Southern EMU which has had the flanges turned down a bit by a watchmaker friend of mine, but we were unable to reduce the sheer thickness of the flanges, which is what is causing the problem - they jam in the flangeways of the points. I am looking at buying some adapted wheelsets off an eBay dealer to cure this one, as I would like to see it running again once in a while.

Some very useful tips for regauging the wheels on locos and rollingstock. Fantastic.

A few other locos I own that will go on sale soon… As can be seen, some I practiced 'weathering' techniques on a while ago…:oops:









This one above I have replaced the front pony bogie, hence the green wheels. Hornby went on to use this body mould for a very long time.




Triang Continental Pacific 'Hiawatha'. I have sold this loco already and they are a good seller.

One loco that I sold and made a great return is this :



The 08 sold at such a great price that I could purchase a brand new Bachmann 08 (DCC ready) and still have change left over. The main reason for the good return is this :



The 'Made In Australia & New Zealand' models were manufactured with a slight colour variation in the plastic, that was not equal to the Rovex/Triang models. They are becoming very collectable in the UK as well. The chap who bought this (located in Emerald Qld) has a trading partner in the UK.

I do wonder where this loco ended up ?? :hmm

Cheers, Gary.



'

You should charge extra for the weathering, Gary.  :thumbs

They say a picture is worth 1000 words … here is one with (what seems to be) a 1000 words!
Hope it adds to the discussion and clarifies the description. The shapes are exaggerated but it should be OK

Regards

Trevor

re flanges-to reduce the thickness of old flanges just ake the body off connect a DC controller direct the turn on and use a small flat file on the wheel backs,then a triangular file on the flange face to set the angle,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

T he  only trouble with that Owen is that you risk filings getting into your gears etc…

Jeff if you are stuck, I have a small Uni mat lathe and we could probably take the wheels out and turn the backs down… let me know you are interested in coming out my direction…

Cheers

Trevor

Hi Trevor. Thanks for your very generous offer. However, the flanges are already the result of a lathe with a tungsten-carbide tool … the story follows!

My friend , the watchmaker, offered to do the job originally, but he was on holidays, so he took the wheels and axles and said it would be "a couple of weeks" before he could put them on the lathe at work. He duly reported back, "Blunted the tool on the lathe, not a scratch on the wheels."

He went on to say that he was doing a TAFE course and they had a bigger, more sophisticated lathe and he would try the wheels on that, "but it will be a couple of weeks before the next class."  He duly reported back, "Blunted the tool on the lathe, not a mark on the wheels! But this has interested the lecturer, so he is going to bring in a tungsten-carbide tool." He said I would have to wait a couple more weeks for the result.

The end result was that they managed to turn the flanges down a bit but blunted the tungsten-carbide tool. This intrigued my friend, who collects old railway stuff, such as Farish models and other oddities, so he started doing some research. The upshot of his digging was that at some point, Triang had bought some army surplus armour plating and had added that to the metal mix for the wheels, which accounted for the extreme hardness of the wheels. 

While they are runnable on plain track now, they are too thick to pass through the finer flangeway clearances of the newer Peco points. However, I know that no matter how much running I ever give them, they will never, repeat NEVER, wear out!!  


   

Hello Jeff,.

Our ears must have been collectively burning…  I have just got off the phone about 5 minutes ago with a friend from 2 clubs about this issue and what he did was heat the wheels in a gas oven to soften them which enabled to be turned. I was concerned about wheel wear but as he said with N/S rail, it should be OK. He has reset his wheels with new bushes from the UK.

I wonder if the heating of the wheel would allow it to be cooled, the wheel could be reheated afterwards and quenched to reharden them?

Alternatively if the flanges could be filed, I wonder if the back of the wheel could filed in a lathe? The heat generated would tentatively soften them a bit…

Perhaps others have experience of this… please share…

Cheers

Trevor