Jeff gave us all this.


Here's a few posts selected from the thread I started on the old forum about coupling and uncoupling of stock.
It represents a good basic introduction to Kadee Couplers, which although not British prototype are certainly amongst the best looking automatic system available :-


In my time I've mastered some tricky things. I like to think I'm adaptable and can learn new things.

Over the years, as a railway modeller, I've had to learn many "new" skills and maybe I've reached a reasonable level of competance.

But one thing, above all, completely baffles me. COUPLING and UNCOUPLING my stock.
Bachmann have one type of device, Hornby another, Heljan a third and so on.
All of them look c**p, work like c**p and mate with each other like c**p.
I've given up waiting for the manufacturers to either standardise or improve the look of couplings, so the only thing I know for sure is I must change and standardise my stock.

But there's the problem, NEM pockets, Sprat & Winkle, Kaydee and other such things are like a black art, written in code and dusted with invisable dust, to me.

Which is best, what are the options, how easy are they to fit, has anyone ever written an "idiots guide" I can follow?
All I can say is HEEEELP

Reply from Perry
I'm very much with you on this one, Jeff. There seems to be so many different makes and types to choose from and each has advantages and disadvantages.

One thing's for sure, it's going to involve a fair amount of work and money to change all one's stock over, but it only has to be done once. However, I would think that cutting the original couplings off a RTR loco could make it virtually worthless if you ever wanted to sell it. With locos at around a hundred quid a throw, it's got to be considered. I know that some couplings can simply be unscrewed, but putting the new ones on can involve drilling holes and sticking on various bits and pieces.

I will watch with interest to see if you get any offers of an 'idiot's guide' because I for one could do with it.  
Perry

Reply From Misha
By no means an idiots guide I'm afraid, but I've converted all my HO stock to Kadees. For the majority of my stuff I've used number 18's (just bought a pack at random, tried them, and they seem to work), these fit nicely into the NEM sockets. I picked up a kadee catalogue but it's near impossible to make a selection from it. Kadee do sell sample packs with a selection of couplings so you can find the ones that suit. When I come to do my locomotive (which currently has ROCO couplings) I'm thinking of just taking it along to the shop and asking for advice.

Jeff Said
I've heard a lot of people talk about Kadees Misha.
What are they like to fit  Do they come with an idiot's guide

Misha Replied
If you have NEM sockets they are easy to fit, it's literally a case of pulling the old ones out and inserting the kadees.

If you have any other fittings, it can involve a bit of filing or opening up holes etc. But I wouldn't let that put you off, I converted some old Hornby ACHO flatbeds in a matter of minutes.

I've subsequently converted all my HO stock, apart from a rake of Tdgs (hoppers) which I intend to run as a block train, so no need to change them apart from one end that attaches to the loco.


They are pretty much self explanatory when you get them, but they are supplied with excellent instructions too. Some articles recommend the use of a height gauge to set them up, I haven't found this necessary so far.

Hope this explains things a tad better.

Misha

Bob then Posted This

Here are three other links to Kadee couplings. The first is the Kadee people themselves followed by two other links on fitting to various pieces of rolling stock. The information on those pages, combined with Misha's article, should go a long way to helping anyone who is considering fitting this type of coupling.

The Kadee Company

Magnetic Couplings For British Stock

I picked this information up on another site, tried it and it works :!:

Fixing Kadees to Older Models

Fitting Kadees to non-NEM stock can sometimes be a problem.
On some older stock (Mainline, old Hornby etc) , the hook and bar coupling is fixed by a single bolt or self tapping screw.
In these cases a Kadee No.20 can be used. (These are the longest of the type which are made to fit NEM pockets.)
Drill a small hole into the shank of the Kadee, about where the 20 is embossed on the plastic and use the original screw to fix the Kadee in place. (you can also use a small washer to spread the pressure across the shank).
An advantage of this type of fix is that you don't damage the wagon and the original hook & bar can be reinstated at anytime.
For some of the short Hornby wagons, it will be  necessary to clip off the end of the shank (i.e. the bit which fits into the NEM pocket) in order to clear the axle.

I found this other topic in our forum about Kadees as well.

http://yourmodelrailway.com/viewtopic.php?t=1227&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=kadee

There are five links in the Index under Kadee and seven under Couplers.

For those of you thinking about using Kadee, I  would suggest that if you plan to use the electromagnet unit #308 or 309 for uncoupling, you will need to get a big power supply.
 I got one #309  today  & on the packet & in the instructions, it recommends at least a 3Amp supply of either 15vDC or 18vAC.

I have e-mailed Kadee because nowhere in the product section of their website does it refer to this requirement. If it was on the webpage, I would have not purchased it - even got 2 for friends so I am waiting on Kadee to reply.

Yes, that's naughty Sol and could well make the difference between using the system or not. Most of us have to be cost concious today and at the moment times aren't getting any easier.

i have looked at the electro-magnet set up but opted for between tracks permanent jobs straight forward fit,put where you want and work,for shunting ops,i use magni-magnetic ones from kadee,also drop in the tracks.
you only need one at the throat of a yard/sidings.
     8)

Owen. I have used Kadee now for over 8 years & have used the permanent magnet in between the rails.
 No major problems with USA  models but did find UK short -wheel based can cause a problem.
Assume a train of 8 wagons being backed & the last one from the loco is to be uncoupled & pushed a short way down into another siding. The wagon is uncoupled OK, & set to delay & pushed down the track - loco stops & you can bet your last penny that another set of couplings has now stopped over the magnet & when you pull away with the loco, you leave the rest behind. It has happened so many times, that is why I was going to try electric magnetic uncoupling but if I cannot fit it in as it needs the track lifted & a bleeding big hole put in, I may have to resort to using more permanent magnets in each siding.
It is my intention to use magnets where it is hard to reach for manual uncoupling as we use thin rods to bring the airhose / trip in to one side to uncouple.

Sol,i did have the same type problem,but since i converted one of my trucks to make an extra electrical pick up and permanently coupled it to the shunter
i don`t any more. :wink:      8)
p.s i decided not to use electro for the very reasons you mentioned+cost. :oops:    8)

What about the DIY one I have put the link for? Can't get any cheaper than that. Or isn't it suitable?

Bob,the diy one is for lifting couplings and is ideal for it,but kadees
open side ways which means the magnet has its poles on the side edges not the face,i tried ordinary ones but they just pulled the coupling down.
all feel free to corret me if i am wrong on this.
 :roll:      8)

I didn't realise that Owen, thanks.

Thanks, Sol.
I'm marking that one for future reference :!:

Yes, just because I am getting a set of Dinghams, it will not mean I will change over - I like to fiddle.

I think I have got fitting Kadees down now OK.

Perhaps living in Australia, you have no Dapol wagons, Sol. But if you have, some advice on fitting Kadees to them would be handy.
As far as I can see, only major surgery will suffice :!:

Jeff, I have lots of Bachmann, Hornby, Mainline, Dapol & various kits so I will get some photos & words together over the next few days.

Sol said

Jeff, I have lots of Bachmann, Hornby, Mainline, Dapol & various kits so I will get some photos & words together over the next few days.

Cheers Sol, I've done some Hornby and Bachmann Wagons, some Locos too, but I've looked at my coaches and my Dapol wagons  (I've quite a few coal trucks and box vans) scratched my head and put them back in the stock cabinet for future attention.

I've transferred the content relating to coaches to a new thread specific to that subject (at Sol's request) and deleted them from here.

Sorry owen, I realised afterwards that I'd reduced your post numbers by one whilst doing so, hope you don't send the boys in to get me :!:  :!:    

More on uncoupling Kadees…


  John Flann wrote:

this tool I was put on to by Tony Koester, editor of MRP, it's simple  enough-a #16 tapestry needle force fitted (and soldered) into a 6"  length of 3/32 brass tube and with a coloured push pin in the end. See  below,



Novice wrote:

John

Excuse my ignorance, but how do they work? Do you just back up so the coupler is slack and push one Kadee apart?

Bob(K)

John Flann replied:

Bob, sorry I didn't make this clear, all you need do is hold one vehicle  firm with one hand and with the other slip the needle point vertically  nto the mating coupling, twist slightly when the coupling will open.  There's a bit if a knack to it but practice makes perfect.

Novice wrote:

I wonder if somthing similar could be done with a magnet on a stick? Probably not enough clearance underneath.


Sol wrote:

Novice, there is this for magnetic uncoupling  http://www.rixproducts.com/6280014.htm  but buffers get in the way.

Owen wrote:

here is a pic of the one I got with my Kadee ht gauge





                                                                             ***********************
 I like to use the pointy end of bamboo skewers.

Mike

tooth picks work well, just so every one knows, I have some that have a slightly angled end that I use, also use them to unhook my Hornby units with the bar and hoop things too, they work great ;) Ill take pics later tonight when I get home.