It's a lot simpler than electronics and easier to install and probably more reliable. I'll sketch out a circuilt diagram over the next day or so to show how it can be done. This has really got me thinking. I'm in town tomorrow so I'll pick up a couple of switches from Maplins and have a play. If it does work there is no limit to what could be done and a lot cheaper than DCC. No chips for a start.

Have a look at this, a method with reed switches.

http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/turnout-control.html

seems easy enough.

Thank you very much kind Sir, looks straight forward enough. I'll have another look at the link again later this evening.

Another weapon in the armoury.

Toto

Thanks toto. I'm still going to have a play when I get hold of some switches. This looks like it could be a fun way to waste a few hours. Browsing on the web I've noted signal operation and whistle ops using them, and I want to see if I can fully automate a branchline junction in both directions, perhaps with signal interlocking as well.

Hi Bittern,

I've not even considered signals yet and if the truth be known, probably won't. I don't understand them and my layout would not be ideal I fear as there are no really long interrupted runs. Mines is mostly shunting and yard duty type operations. Never the less, once I get my head into an idea, I tend to want to know more about it whether or not I intend to adopt it myself.

I too like the idea of a fully automated points system even if it were just for my two main roundy roundy up and down lines. It's just being able to say, " I can do that " it adds a little more thought or know how to the layout.

The closest I will come to it at the moment will be route setting etc which I will try to incorporate once I've established that all my points are working well individually when I start powering up and testing, which shouldn't be to long away now.

If you get there before me with the reed switching which it sounds like you will, keep me posted as to what you manage to achieve using this technique as I am definitely interested .

Cheers for now

Toto.

will do toto good luck

 

I too bought a couple of reed switches in Maplins the other day to try out. Have to be after holidays now.

I have heard that they may be activated by the magnetism from the motor, otherwise a small magnet is required.

I have some ring magnets out of defuct micro-wave cookers. Bit big to fit onto train though. I keep them on a dowel rod in a piece of wood. Polarity is side to side, not across the diameter, so they sit there with two hovering above the third at the bottom. Must be quite powerful, nearly an inch between them.

David

I think the distance between magnet and switch has to be pretty close. I have ordered some niodydium? magnets as well to fit on the underside of the loco or wagons etc. I don't think the loco motor magnets will be strong enough, except of course on the old Triang stuff with magdahesion, as the adhesion magnets were quite low on the chassis. This is going to be a fun experiment and am hoping to have a good play  at it over the christmas break, theres not much worth watching on the box and I'm blessed with normally having a nice quiet time without the usual family interuptions.

I tried the reed relay & magnet trick - not all locos have room to glue magnets underneath and then that stops your friends bring their locos to run on your layout.

I'm thinking of using the Brake van or a carriage to hold the magnet Sol. I know under bachmann locos there is not a lot of room