Another foray into butchering John's kits.

Here, here Marty thumbs

I always find it difficult to bin any of my "failed" efforts and then regret it for the rest of my life !!!

Your results Perry are, as Marty said, a triumph of willpower over impatience. :cheers

Being probably a bit lazier/impatient I print the window frames direct to transparency sheets, I can see where cut out and stuck on frames will have a visual advantage in larger scales, but in N I find cutting out frames to be a PITA, things may change if/when I get a cutter/plotter. (The one I won on Ebay back in March still hasn't arrived so I'm chasing Ebay for my money back)
Must look out for another one!

Minor problem is that I cant do white frames. and pale colour frames don't show up well either.

Cutting out all those window frames certainly tried my patience but the results look worth the time I spent doing it. I have designed and printed my own windows before. My little goods shed project needed some special ones. Fortunately, they were black which didn't present any problems with printing but some yellow and green ones didn't turn out so well.  The colours weren't bright enough. I guess the ink isn't dense enough when printed onto tranparency material.

I'm still slowly making up the floor and ceiling assemblies and will post more pictures when I reach the next stage.

Perry

I'm ready when you are Perry. :thumbs

Sorry about the pregnant pause, chaps. We've got someone refitting one of our bathrooms (doesn't that sound grand?) and I can't actually get to the door of the modelling room (also sounding rather grand!).

In truth, we have one bathroom and the guy that is refitting it for us needs the space that I normally hog for modelling for a lot of his tools and materials. He will hopefully be finished soon and 'normal service will be resumed'.

I've got loads of stuff printed out and ready to go, and a certain amount of parts stuck to card ready for assembly, so as soon as I can get in there, I will.

Perry

[user=17]Perry[/user] wrote:Cutting out all those window frames certainly tried my patience but the results look worth the time I spent doing it. I have designed and printed my own windows before. My little goods shed project needed some special ones. Fortunately, they were black which didn't present any problems with printing but some yellow and green ones didn't turn out so well.  The colours weren't bright enough. I guess the ink isn't dense enough when printed onto tranparency material.

I'm still slowly making up the floor and ceiling assemblies and will post more pictures when I reach the next stage.

Perry



Hi, Perry, I find the there is no need to make individual cuts for each window frame/glazing bar. I scan/copy one of the common windows, and then print them in rows and columns onto self adhesive A4 labels in alignment. Most photo editing/drawing systems have an alignment setting. I then stick the print-out to the acrylic medium. Most of John W's kits have most of the windows drawn in alignment anyway.


It means that one continuous cut can do all each side/edges in one pass. There is no need to stop at the internal corners of individual panes, the sticky stuff holds the tiny square piece at each junction in place. I then pick off the 'pane' area with tweezers having raised the corner with a scalpel.
[for greater relief I have stuck two sheets to the acrylic and I'm pleased to say it works very well.]
It is the method I used for the windows below, for example

]

Hope this idea helps with your next job, and eases your hand strain a little,

 Doug


 editing of size words, etc by sol

Handy hint, Doug; pity I wasn't aware of it sooner. :shock::roll:

I'll certainly bear it in mind for the next batch. Thanks.

Perry

With two rows eight of houses planned, I printed out four each of all sixteen sheets from the .pdf file to start with. This gives me enough parts plus a few spares to allow for any problems along the way.

Following the instruction sheets was straightforward. The only error I have noticed so far is a slight discrepancy in Step 6 which mentions Back Walls B and Centre Walls A. On page 16 of the printed parts, they are actually labelled Back Walls B and Centre Walls B. However, if someone like me could sort it out, I'm sure that no-one will experience any problems. :???:

The plan for the models on the layout is to have two rows of eight dwellings end to end, separated by a narrow alley or access road (known as a 'loke' in these here parts). The photo shows one row behind the other, not as I intend to have them on the layout. I simply didn't have a wide-angle lens that could cope with them end to end!

I have completed Step 7 and am moving on the the heady heights of installing bookshelves and paintings. John is nothing if not thorough when it comes to including details! :shock:

Here is the current state of construction:



I use 'Office' glue sticks from Poundland for sticking the printed sheets to the pieces of card and 'Anita's Tacky PVA Glue' for the assembly of the parts.

Once printed sheet as been stuck to the card, I temporarily cover it with a piece of thin clear plastic (from a filing pocket) and then use a rubber roller over the top to get rid of any air bubbles and to ensure good contact and adhesion. The clear plastic keeps the printed material clean and free of stray glue. I interleave several sheets of the clear plastic between stacks of parts if I put them in my clamp to dry. The clamp helps them dry flat and keeps pressure constant. If the plastic sheets get a bit mucky, I simply wipe them over with a damp cloth, ensuring they are dry before re-using them.

Perry

Great work Perry and a good little tip about using the plastic sheet.

Lovely work as per normal Perry. Look nice on the old GWR line , ok im out of here :pedal

Phill

[user=9]phill[/user] wrote:

Look nice on the old GWR line , ok im out of here :pedal

Phill

Strangely that's exactly what I was thinking as I plan to have a row of them at Market Havering.

[user=9]phill[/user] wrote:

Lovely work as per normal Perry. Look nice on the old GWR line , ok im out of here :pedal

Phill

Your spelling is atrocious, Phill. It's GER, not GWR - still, only one letter wrong!  :It's a no no

As was mentioned above, there is some leeway with card thickness in these models, but it's worth test-fitting a few parts before cutting a large batch. I had to do a little bit of careful trimming in places until I figured that out. :oops:

Perry

[user=946]Chinahand[/user] wrote:

[user=9]phill[/user] wrote:

Look nice on the old GWR line , ok im out of here :pedal

Phill

Strangely that's exactly what I was thinking as I plan to have a row of them at Market Havering.

Oh, no! Please, don't encourage him, Trevor. :shock::thud

Perry

I use old bonio boxes for my scalescenes models.I can hear all the gasps as i type.Seriously though i'm building the canal and locks kit atm and i'm having no problems with the card at all plus the dog is showing me undying affection.

They look smart Perry. :thumbs  Can you tell us about your press please ?  Sounds like a useful gadget.  Is the rubber roller similar to the ones they used to use for inking lino cuts ?

I've been studying the laminations but can't make it out ………….:roll::roll:

Is there a slot for the floors to sit in ?  I ask because, whilst the centre wall on the upstairs bit seems to have 4 card thicknesses, the ground floor bit only seems to have the 2 formed by the party walls.

The press is on here under 'Glueing Clamp' in the Hints and Tips section: http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=7483&forum_id=11.

The rubber roller I use is about 3" wide and 1" in diameter, but the dimensions are not critical. I just find this size covenient. It is exactly the same type of roller used for inking lino cuts.

The upper centre walls are indeed made up from four thickness of card. The double laminate forming the upper and lower walls have an 'inner' wall added on each side of the upper floor, hence the four thicknesses. The difference in thickness between the upper and lower parts of the central wall won't be visible once assembly progresses a little further. The floors and the central walls are joined by a halving joint; a slot cut out half way across each piece and slotted together. Very strong and rigid when glued up:



Perry

Thanks Perry - I remember your press now.  :thumbs

Regarding the laminations and halving joints, I wonder if John has changed his method (or you have …..:roll:)

When I built the complete terraces, there were "inner walls" on both ground and first floors leaving a slot for the floors to slide into …………at least that was the idea !!  The lip created by the slightly smaller inner wall, also created a ledge for the house fronts to sit up against.

It will be interesting to see the progress. thumbs

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

…………Regarding the laminations and halving joints, I wonder if John has changed his method (or you have …..:roll:)…….

I am building the model following the printed instructions, so I'm guessing it's something John has changed.

Perry

[user=1033]spurno[/user] wrote:

I use old bonio boxes for my scalescenes models.I can hear all the gasps as i type.Seriously though i'm building the canal and locks kit atm and i'm having no problems with the card at all plus the dog is showing me undying affection.

Great idea! I wonder if SWMBO will let me have a dog…………?

I'm all in favour of throwing nothing away. It's amazing how often the stuff one would normally throw out comes in handy. :thumbs

Perry