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concrete

I've recently built a row of scalescenes under arch businesses of which one end will be a scrapyard having an earth based surface.the rest of the space is giving me a bit of a dilemma.do i go tarmac or concrete.the era will be late fifties/early sixties.as far as modelling tarmac is concerned i have no worries,i can use metcalf sheets or wet and dry paper.if i model concrete how do i do it?.will it be right for the era?has anybody modelled concrete?.i have checked the index but there is nothing there for concrete.i am modelling N scale.
i await all forthcoming wisdom.

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Alan


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Hi ALAN

May I suggest that you actually use neat cement? This is what I use when building concrete coaling towers - and roadways.

If you do, mix it well in with a 50/50 mix of water and PVA glue into a slurry, then iether trowel or lightly brush over the surface - when dry, you can lightly sand it over to highlight the texture.


If it cracks,as it sometimes does, then so much the better.


Hope this helps.

 Allan.

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What a good tip :thumbs but where do you get a small amount of cement and not 50kg bag? :hmm

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hi Allan,i hadn't thought of that.worth thinking about.many thanks.

Regards

Alan


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[user=755]glenng[/user] wrote:
What a good tip :thumbs but where do you get a small amount of cement and not 50kg bag? :hmm

Try a local building/construction site… I'm sure a builder wouldn't mind handing out a handful of cement. Maybe a local building supplies or hardware store may have a damaged bag lying around, all too happy to dispose of.

Cheers, Gary.
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Hi Spurno,

The military modellers use the following technique.

1. Paint the surface in a sticky paint preferably near to concrete colour

2. Sprinkle on Talcum Powder sparingly, makes the model smell nice as well:roll:.

3. When dry - about 24hrs - lightly sand the surface.

4. To put in cracks use a needle and then rub in a dark weathering powder or graphite (pencil)

Simon



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Try TX19 or TX32 from http://scalescenes.com/scratchbuilders-yard   for a concrete ground

Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:
Try TX19 or TX32 from http://scalescenes.com/scratchbuilders-yard   for a concrete ground

He beat me to it, but may I suggest printing it on lightly textured watercolour paper?

Doug

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thanks everyone for your suggestions,i also found this site which looks ok.http://www.cgtextures.com/index.php

plenty of textures here.

Regards

Alan


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Alan, I can heartily recommend cgtextures - it's well worth registering onto the site.
Especially good if you have access to Photoshop or similar.

Best of luck with the concrete! (cement powder/talcum/Mr.Wiffen) all good suggestions.

Shaun.
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[user=1427]allan downes[/user] wrote:
Hi ALAN

May I suggest that you actually use neat cement? This is what I use when building concrete coaling towers - and roadways.

If you do, mix it well in with a 50/50 mix of water and PVA glue into a slurry, then iether trowel or lightly brush over the surface - when dry, you can lightly sand it over to highlight the texture.


If it cracks,as it sometimes does, then so much the better.


Hope this helps.

 Allan.



Hi Allan,i've finally got round to trying your suggestion of neat cement and i have to say it worked very well,even the dried colour looked ok.i did try another batch with some filler in it to lighten it but it didn't seem to make any difference.Could you suggest how i may model drains and expansion joints,eg colour.

ps.i forgot the pva and just used water.will post some photos tomorrow.

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Alan


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For drain etches ,have a word with Jim s w .

reg
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Thanks Reg,will do.

Regards

Alan


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Hello
Never would have thought of using the real stuff but I must admit have not seen it in any 1:76 bags (LoL)
Great ideas are always the most simple. Allan your star gets brighter every day
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Stephen

Acording to a recent visit to a supermarket at check out time, I an not loosing my memory it has been downgraded which means i am not stupid afterall - Sorted! - What a relief
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As promised my test piece.







The image on the left is neat cement mixed with a small bit of filler.The filler was added to lighten the mix but made no difference to my eye.The image on the right is just neat cement and water and looks ok to me so i will probably go with this although your thoughts would be appreciated on any alternatives.




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Alan


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Looks like the real stuff really is the best.
Regards
Stephen

Acording to a recent visit to a supermarket at check out time, I an not loosing my memory it has been downgraded which means i am not stupid afterall - Sorted! - What a relief
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Looks good Alan, well done.

Always try to look on the bright side of life!

Barney
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[user=1033]spurno[/user] wrote:
[user=1427]allan downes[/user] wrote:
Hi ALAN

May I suggest that you actually use neat cement? This is what I use when building concrete coaling towers - and roadways.

If you do, mix it well in with a 50/50 mix of water and PVA glue into a slurry, then iether trowel or lightly brush over the surface - when dry, you can lightly sand it over to highlight the texture.


If it cracks,as it sometimes does, then so much the better.


Hope this helps.

 Allan.



Hi Allan,i've finally got round to trying your suggestion of neat cement and i have to say it worked very well,even the dried colour looked ok.i did try another batch with some filler in it to lighten it but it didn't seem to make any difference.Could you suggest how i may model drains and expansion joints,eg colour.

ps.i forgot the pva and just used water.will post some photos tomorrow.

Your concrete effect - looking the buisiness.

For expansion joints, check your PMs - as for the drains, manhole covers etc, try Langley Models for brass etched examples.

Cheers.

Allan.
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Hi Alan…try here…Brush_it_on.co.uk..i have used B road mix and country lane mix with good results,they do have concrete.. all available in different sizes of bags just add water and brush on for effect:thumbs
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Alan:
My thoughts (ignore as appropriate):

Use a pre-cut-to-size base for your mixture.
This will save trying to trowel around drainpipes, doorways etc., in N scale!
This base can then be attached in position.
Using PVA in the mix will lead to a longer life and less powdering over time.

http://dddioramas.webs.com/

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