The thought was appreciated!

Variations on a theme - not Model Railways but an illustration.
I timed these through Photoshop and the two took five minutes (as opposed to 30 seconds with PS Elements).
A Red Admiral this time, taken yesterday in the wind with the Canon:

OK.  So now to test the Nikon to see if I'm coming to grips with the controls.  Here's a shot of the Sony.



So, not much wrong with that except that the point of focus is in the wrong place.  :oops:

Anyway.  That's on Scene > Close Up.  No I know that it will do it.  Here's the stage, showing the culvert in place.



So, that's taken from the same spot with the same settings in place - all that was different was the zoom setting to fit it in the frame.

Still slightly out of focus.  :hmm

Back to the drawing board.

Not much wrong with that as you say, Max.
It could 'look' a bit better with some mild processing although nothing can be done with the focus after the fact.

I'm not worried about the shot of the camera, Pete.

It's the shot of the stage that's mystifying me.

I shouldn't have to Photoshop it to get it in focus.  I need to learn how to do it on the camera.

Still at the drawing board.  :???:

Looking at that culvert shot Max, I'd say it's just a bit "flat".  Maybe if you could increase light levels, it would jump out at you ………………..:roll::roll:

Focus "slightly off" can often be a simple trick of the light.

I'll have to buy a couple more lights, Peter.

I'm using the room light plus a 100 Watt eco/fluro standard lamp.

If I wind the zoom back to close up, I get this . . .



Much better, but still with depth of field issues.

Tomorrow night is Photography Club, so someone will put their finger on it.

I've had another look at the 'stage', Max.
The focus seems to be about right.
There is a problem with the light in that your camera is trying to portray extremes of light and dark on the same level.
Perhaps it's not helped that there is more sculptural detail nearer the camera (I expect you applied the medium spreading away from the culvert on each side).

So far I have been working on Auto and Scene.  The camera tries its best, but it just can't cut it.

It looks like I'll have to go manual.  I can produce slightly out of focus shots all day with the Sony.

Bite the bullet time has arrived.  Where's that Manual?   :twisted:

Does your "Scene" mode give you optional focus points Max ?

Spot focus concentrates on a very tiny part of the shot and, in close-up or zoom, that tiny point "centre screen"  throws everything else out.

It probably does, Peter.  I'm always going to struggle trying to understand the camera by trial and error.

I'm not posting these shots in the hope of getting help, but more to show my slow progress on the journey to understanding.

That's why I joined   http://www.adelaidehillsphotographyclub.com.au/about.html

I'm confident that I will grasp it eventually.

You're unlikely to get much help anyway, Max.
I'm with you in losing the instructions the minute I open a box.

(There should be a degree course in understanding the manuals produced by the Japanese).

Hi Max

Another tip is to use the self timer to take the shot if you haven't got a cable release - my Canon DSLR doesnt have the connection for my cable release

Depth of field will be more of an issue with your new camera v the cybershot as the compact type cameras use a shorter focal length lense and thus have a greater depth of field. But as your subjects aren't going any where, using the manual settings on the camera you can increase the depth of field by decreasing the aperture (increase the F stop number decreases the aperture increasing the depth of field). I have wooden floors, so for long exposures I trigger the camera by using the self timer and leave the room so that I dont shake the camera by moving.

Paul

Good advice, Paul.

Thanks, Paul.

You're welcome

As an experiment, on manual compose your shot and take a pic. Now increase the F stop by 2 (ie F4 to F8 or F5.6 to F11) this is a 2 stop increase and will increase your exposure time by 4 to keep the same exposure. I'm sure Peter will correct me if I got this wrong.
You will need to compare the shots but you should see a difference in the depth of fields. Of course if you wish to blur the background / foreground go the other way.

I would imagine F16, F22 and F32 will become your new best friends ;-)

Paul

[user=888]paul_l[/user] wrote:

……………………
I would imagine F16, F22 and F32 will become your new best friends ;-)

…………………………….

Only if the lights good and with a heavy tripod ………………….:roll::roll::cheers(for f22 and f32 at least …………:thumbs) 

At f32, you'd probaly get Sol and your flies in sharp focus at the same time Max.

Thanks, Paul.  That's the beauty of the digital camera.  I can take a series of experimental shots and instantly see the results.  And for no cost.  :thumbs

I printed one of my shots on glossy paper and discovered why I need to calibrate my printer.  Way too dark.

Is there no end to this fun?  :cool wink

We're all looking forward to the advice from your 'Club', Max!

(White balance perhaps?).