It does indeed Ray - thanks. :thumbs

I'll have a look at the Scalescenes "window" download - I do like those "on end" bricks.  They'd also make excellent lintels because you often saw that construction, slightly arched, over windows and doors.

Peter

This is the one

http://www.scalescenes.com/products/TX00-Arches-and-Windows

Continuing on with the build..

The base was simply glued together using card formers at bottom, centre and top with interior partitions (painted black) also for strengthening.

Note this pic has the wrong shaped lintels which were changed afterwards.






The top balcony is just a card "tray" - a rectangle with some low card sides added.




Next the Cabin sides are cut out, together with a floor strengthener.




Planking and apertures were drawn on the cabin sides. The front and rear sides have an angled "tab" for attaching the roof.



It is quite tricky to put the windows in place correctly. I also wanted some to overlap as sliding frames. This pic shows horrible gaps but this is extreme close up! From a distance they look ok.




Three sides and a painted floor with scribed planking.




Interior next!

To be continued….

The interior of the box won't really be seen, but I couldn't leave it empty! At the same time I didn't want to spend a lot of money on whitemetal castings that would never be seen!

Step one was to make a load of levers from plastic strip and paint them in various lever colours. The put in a long painted balsa base as the bottom of the frame. The signalmen are old Airfix platelayers (promoted!)



A stove was made up from pits of card and plastic rod.





I also made up a shelf over the frame with some dummy block instruments made from balsa. (not illustrated)

The cabin was then glued onto the "balcony"




Roofing next!

To be continued …

That's looking very good Ray.

I like the lever frame. :thumbs

I forgot to mention how I put in the "levers".  In the base I used a sharp point (bradawl) to make a "dent" in the base where the lever would sit. Then a dab of glue with a cocktail stick and used anything handy to support the levers in position while the glue dried. I did about six at a time.

For the roof I had an existing Scalescenes Signal Box Kit and I used the roofing tiles from that (only twice as many - thanks to multiple printing).

I glued the lined under surface to the roof, joined in the middle as it is smaller.
Then cut out the tiles in Double strips.
Starting from the gutter edge lay and glue the double tile strips across the roof.
Apply the next strip of tiles but overlap one row of tiles to obtain a 3D effect.
Continue to the apex and repeat for the other side of the roof.



When all tiles are laid, fold the ridge tiles and apply to the folded roof.



To add a chimney, I used some bits of cut rod painted black.




Finished roof



Next I added painted bargeboards (card strip) and cabin corner capping. (I fixed the tilted chimney!!)




Next time I will tackle the tricky topic of the handrails!!

I like the idea of overlapping double rows of tiles Ray. :thumbs

Not only are single strips awkward to handle but any stray glue (and I get lots ……:oops:), tends to stick the next row right down to the lower edge thus negating any attempt at an overlap.

My first attempt at trying tol solder up railings was a disaster! So I gave up!




First step was to make up some tall frames that are spaced around the balcony. Made from plastic strip jointed with mek-pek.






Some fine wire was laid across the frames and glued in place with evo-stick.

In order to hold the wires against the frame I made this little gizmo from card to press between the wire and the side of the cabin.





One wire completed.



This is the cabin completed.



I haven't done the access stairway yet as it will have to be specific to the location of the box, but it is just a standard stairway.


I have also started a Gantry-type signal box which is just a cut-down Scalescenes box sitting on top of some plastic gantry strip from a couple of Ratio Signal gantries!



More work to do but I haven't the time at the moment!

I like that gantry signal box Ray. thumbs

Don't give up wire railings Ray, it's all in the materials and technique.

1)  Materials

Hard, straight brass wire.  I'd use 0.032" for the uprights and 0.020" for the cross pieces.  I get mine at my local hobby shop but I'm sure the likes of Eileens have it.

Drawing pins

2)  Soldering

For brass, I use Carrs 145C solder and Green label flux (dilute phosphoric acid).  The solder available from DCC Concepts is reckoned to be better but I haven't tried it.

3)  Method

a)  Draw your pattern on some paper.

b)  Lay uprights and crosspieces over your pattern and secure with the drawing pins.  Don't try to get the lengths exact.

c)  Apply solder to the joints

d)  Remove the railing from the pattern and trim the excess.

e)  Wash the acid off.

f)  Spray the railing with flat white

g)  Install

John

OK then, that's yet another good monthly project so can we have a volunteer for July. As before the project can be on any model railway related subject and as difficult or as easy as you like.