Soldering dropper wires to rail can be a pain, just maybe another way.

I use a trapped pin for power droppers.  See tutorial here

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=4658&forum_id=6

Hth

Jim

Thanks Jim, An excellent tidy method.
Just like to mention, Peco have changed their code 75 metal joiners material from the old nickle silver? to what seems an alloy steel mix.
regards,

Derek

I'd seen that when you fiorst posted it Jim - a great tutorial but unfortunately, I don't have your patience.

I've always thought about building my own track but my impatience would get in the way and I'd probably try to rush it with disasterous consequences.

And to think, our old school motto was "Petamus Virtutem" - patience is a virtue !!!

That's right, Peter.  Plastic joiners have sufficient strength to keep the rails in alignment.  If there is so much lateral stress on the rails that they jump out of the plastic joiners, then there is something seriously wrong.

I think I have said it enough times now.  If people have continuity or voltage drop issues after this, I will keep my counsel.  If you must use metal rail joiners, make sure that you aren't relying on them for connectivity.  End of.

Hi Max, Plastic rail joiners and track laying, excellent theory and I do use them, But the air turns blue around me as I try to get those peco beggars to join up, I swear joning crossover points with them has shortend my life span!
Now if they made them with a stiffer plastic life may become tranquil again. he he.

   I know how you feel, Derek.  I usually chamfer the rail ends with a jewellers' file.  Even then, they certainly challenge one's patience.  Character building.  :shock:

They are also handy if you have to graft a piece of track in.  They will bend a bit as you raise the rails.

So I assume you use them for all your joins Max……….:roll::roll:

If you weren't running with RR & Co, and given your point about not relying on joiners for continuity, would you still use them ?

I suppose what I'm actually asking is, are they advantageous for "normal" DCC operations ?  I very much doubt I'll ever get to computer control ………….but then I always said I'd never live in France !!!!

I do, Peter.  It's not just RR&C0.  DCC invites the use of current sensing devices for all sorts of applications.  Occupancy detectors can trigger crossing gates and lights, signals and semaphores, for example.

I guess I'm just trying to save people the heartburn I've had and seen.  Nickel silver rail doesn't really have great conductivity, dry joints eventually corrode and retro cutting of rails which have been bent often releases them from the chairs.  Just three good reasons.

Sometimes, even long runs of track will need to be in smaller blocks, so often there can be a case made out for dividing up full lengths of track as it's laid.  Our Club is building a display layout for exhibitions, with all of the wiring on top of baseboards without scenery.  All of the joints have insulated joiners.  Every piece has droppers and the buses aren't cirlcles.

It's just part of good planning and design.

Food for thought there Max - if I ever get around to laying any of my track ……………..

I certainly prefer the plastic joiners - they don't make such deep cuts in your thumb ends …………:twisted:

I too file the track ends slightly to aid alignment but then find they slip on very easily.  The metal ones, for me, are the very devil.  I even made a gadget copied from Doug's idea to push them on but even with that, it's not a job I enjoy and I have many scars to prove they have sharp teeth.

  I must say that I was impressed by Jim's captive pins.  :thumbs   Mindue, everything he does is impressive. 

Okay lads, Tell me, Apart from maybe useing a less flexible plastic. Why do they not make those joiners in a rail colour instead of that semi clear putty plastic, At least you could tell if the little beggers are going onto the rail.

As I mentioned Peco have dropped the N/S for railjoiners and are now useing a new conductive metal.

Also Peter a pair of pliers save the fingers and for that one rail on Peco turnouts where the joiner sticks halfway just press the turnout  down on a block of wood it will soon do what its told

Wont the two different metals for the new rail joiners cause corrosion of their own?

Bob, they may but now Peco have released Code 75 in steel rail & new steel sleeper format, that may have something to do with it.

Steel rail? Is that cheaper than N/S? What about rust?

You have to pay extra for rust, Bob.  

To do with new format track http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/35379/SL104F_Peco_Finescale_Code_75_Steel_Sleeper_flexible_track

More authentic Bob, And saves painting the rails.

To be a little more serious, It depends on the quality of the steel that is used, Really good steel as supplied by C&L for their rails gives very little trouble, Had some upstairs now for over a year and no signs of rust.

Also good steel is far superior to N/S for conductivity and traction, Just maybe DCC may work even better with it?

I use C&L steel on my layout & found, when new ,solders very well & files better too.

I think those are steel sleepered (cross tied), Sol.  I doesn't say if the rails are steel as well.

You correct I think Max & will follow it up.