Another station on the Devan and Summersett

[user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:

. . . and steam powered radio.  ;-)

 Also locos powered with coloured string

I am thinking of a response or two for you two !!!

Actually I had to use my DC knowledge on a DCC layout Friday Night - I will create a new thread about it.

[user=95]Sol[/user] wrote:

I am thinking of a response or two for you two !!!

Actually I had to use my DC knowledge on a DCC layout Friday Night - I will create a new thread about it.

 Oh no! Mixing DC with DCC may cause an electronic demarcation dispute.

 I can see the DCC  union president calling an imdediate digital packet strike.:pedal

Well, not a new thread but added to an existing one re Peco side mounted motors.

Now DC vs DCC - I am involved in helping to build a layout that can be either & Ian, you know him & you have visited him before & this coming Saturday, you would have seen the result.
Anyway, your layout is a mix of DC, DCC & AC is it not quest:   ( DC for LEDs, DCC for trains & point decoders & AC to operate the solenoids).

[user=95]Sol[/user] wrote:

Well, not a new thread but added to an existing one re Peco side mounted motors.

Now DC vs DCC - I am involved in helping to build a layout that can be either & Ian, you know him & you have visited him before & this coming Saturday, you would have seen the result.
Anyway, your layout is a mix of DC, DCC & AC is it not quest:   ( DC for LEDs, DCC for trains & point decoders & AC to operate the solenoids).

Yes, and my layout shed lights are AC too, 240 volts to be exact.

 Most of my leds are actually op with AC.

To the doubters, LEDS do work on AC voltage. With the apropriate resitor of course.

Yes, my points are op with AC after the button has been pushed on the DCC controler.

 If we really want to split hairs ( I havn't got many left to split) my DCC system is initially powered by AC.

 So when we get down to tin tacks this DCC is a load of malarky. Most layoouts are powered by AC or DC anyway.
 DCC or not. :hmm
Well b—-r me, I have been hoodwinked  "again"!quest: :thud

 Cheers

 Ian

Whose layout are you referring to??

 

Just admit it Ron - Those of us that know you think you are a genius.

[user=320]CraigSR[/user] wrote:

 

Just admit it Ron - Those of us that know you think you are a genius.

And those of us who don't know him ……………..? hmm:hmm

[user=320]CraigSR[/user] wrote:

Whose layout are you referring to??

Not yours Craig ,as Ian has not been to your place & would not have been seeing it this coming Saturday.

And the other bit - OK compliments are nice but cash is better

The start of a road crossing - ( one of two to be installed) code 75 superglued to all the sleepers. The existing rails had the inner spike heads, etc removed to allow the webs of both rails to be close together. Painting to follow, then a plaster infill to be done together with the road up to the outside edge of the rails.




The tunnel mouth, etc. all finished plastering & base colour added.










 

That's a good way of making a crossing, Sol.  The plaster can be easily scratched out of the gap if any gets in there.  :thumbs

Very neat Sol, it appears you are thinking of having a plaster insert (tarmac) but I think you will find most UK road level crossings in the 1930's were of a sleeper construction. Easy to lay and easier still to lift for any pw work.

I know the D&S has its own way of doing  things but you might care to bear this in mind.

John, that idea of crossing with timber was pointed out to me by my mate & no doubt was accurate for that time scale. The D&S on the other hand has a time scale from the 30/40's up to around the 80/90's.


That said, I have quite a few more to & the other small station, Mynend will be a good place to try out using timber.

I got back to the first road crossing - set up some formers for the plaster




Some grey acrylic paint mixed into plaster & this is first road I have done this way - at Barnstable, I used Scalescenes papers.




When it is dry, then a  light sanding & some darking colouring - I may paint PVA all over it to help give it strength first.

Looks good, Sol.  Remember to leave the tops of the rails proud of the road.  It's not prototypical, but it makes it easier to clean them.

I'll be interested in seeing how the plaster turns out Sol.  That's the same method I plan to use for my road surface for the trams.  I'm concerned that a thin layer of plaster might lack any kind of strength.

Did you put any PVA in the mix ? I've read somewhere that it adds some strength whilst also allowing for some tiny element of flexibility………….:roll:

It certainly looks good in the photo - nice colour too. :thumbs

No PVA in the mix, Peter - I think that helps to slow down the setting mainly but it may also help with strength. As I said, I think I will give the finish a coar of PVA just to stop cracks ( hopefully).

I decided that the rest of the road would not be plaster but balsa suitably contoured & coloured so this is first part done




when it is dry from the re-coloring now, a  thin PVA coat & then a darker grey & weathered with powders.
Now to carry on with the other side.

For the road crossing at the end near the viaduct, I will try a different approach.

Now done both sides of the crossing, a footpath, etc to be added & the road extended.



Before I continue the road behind the platform, I need to build steps & a ramp




all ballasted now - to be weathered of course




I am not sure what my next job number is !!!


 

From this side of the big pond your road looks pretty good Sol.

What is your final judgement on the balsa, would you do it again or try something else?

Wayne