Mike

iassume you are using a CDU unit with the point motors as they do tend to buzz without one as without one the throw action is often slow hence the buzz.

Also depending on the point motor mount you are using they sometimes have an extra spring for position location which causes extra resistance to the motor throwing sometimes it helps to remove it .

cheers Brian.W

Brian, thanks for the suggestions.

I am using a CDU, in fact I'm trying the MASTERswitch device from Broms Models which has one built in.  The rig I cobbled together was set up to test out switching the two motors of a crossover simultaneously.  One of the motor mounts was a Peco top surface side mount but I did remember to remove the spring as you suggested.  One thing that came out of the test is that this mounting position although convenient for "off scene" points seems to mechanically inefficient compared to mounting under the board and demands more power to switch.

I have discussed the results of my testing with John at Broms Models and we believe the problem may be the power supply I am using which is the 15v ac accessory output from an old dc controller.  I have just ordered a regulated dc supply that will deliver up to 8amps.

Will post the results when I have completed testing with the new power supply

Mike, yes a regulated supply is best.
I actually tested the Masterswitch in conjuction with the manufacturer DCCconcepts here  in Aust & provided some reports in Aust mags  & have added them to our forum under Electric - DC

Thanks Ron - I'll take time out to have a good read.

I'd be interested to hear your views on the circuits posted by Frank (Dukedog) under your post on MASTERswitch
http://yourmodelrailway.com/viewtopic.php?t=1529

Mike, I had a good look at Frank's unit & it does seem quite good.
If you are happy to build these, yeh, go for it - I reckon they will work out cheaper. Just watch out that the problem with power being switched on does not overload power supply like the Masterswitch - I think Frank's circuit works in reverse to Masterswitch.
The other major difference between the two is that Masterswitch will work with pushbuttons or tpggles - it can take a pulse or permanent input where I think Frank's relies on a permanent input switch.

I will follow this up with Frank.


There is another site which also has plenty of point motor circuits
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CircuitIndex.html

I have recently mounted my first couple of SEEP point motors using Tony's method described earlier and was really please how easy and accurate the method was.

I'm also reading with interest the further discussions regarding point motor power supply and activation methods and thinking that I might have to investigate the process a little bit more than I have  :evil:

I was hoping to switch 2 points together and have a 17 - 18V AC power supply (one of those ones you can buy with a variable voltage switch) but from what I am reading the higher voltage will burn out or increase the rate of deterioration of a single point and that these points should have a resister wired in to drop the voltage.

Is that it in a nut shell?

Marty, I would not operate the solenoid point motors direct from either AC or DC for at least 2 reasons.
1. the switch has to carry 2-3 amps when you release it & it will spark & arc  & ultimately could burn the switch out leading to 2.
2. It is easy to leave power on too long either via the button/switch or a burnt out switch & burn the motor out.

It is recommended to use a CDU ( plenty of info even in this forum on that topic such as the one Frank has on his site as descibed above).)
CDU outputs even up to 30V is OK at it is a pulse only, not a sustained power supply direct from AC or DC.


A CDU that will operate 2 motors or 3 at the same time should not cause any problems with 1 - it is when a ladder of many tracks requiring 4 or more to fire at the same time, one needs a decent power supply & thus on the first 1 or 2 tracks in this ladder may need a padding out resistor 5 ohms, 5 watts to give a form of protection and at 35c Australian make a cheaper method of protecting the solenoid.

Hope this clears any problems up.

Thanks Sol,

OK, I won't be using any more than 2 points at any one time so don't need to wire in any resistors.

Looks like I'm in the market for a CDU, either bought or made myself. I tried to make one years ago and made an absolute hash of it.

Number one son is doing an electrical apprenticeship and he owes me a Christmas present  :twisted:

Hi I have fitted several seep point motors following this method but these are individual turn outs .
I am at present trying to wire 2 motors for a cross over between adjacent tracks to fire using a single switch but can't seem to get them to work. 
What am I missing?  I have each motor working independently but when I link them I get the buzz of the motors but they won't throw. 
Any one got any thoughts on the matter

Near the bottom of this page http://brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html#Motor
regarding multiple motors and connections should help you

It also depends on what power supply you are using, to get 2 to operate off the one supply without a CDU, you need at least a 3Amp supply as the coils take around 3 amps

As Sol says, not enough oomph in your power supply. I had the same problem and purely by trial and error with a range of old power packs that I had on hand found that about 17 volts was sufficient to throw two seeps at once. I'm still to get around to building and installing a CDU but have, as yet, only burnt out the one PECO point Motor and that was a self inflicted wiring fault.
Cheers

Marty

Here's  a reminder of my SEEP motor setting gauge


http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=3303&forum_id=21&jump_to=57239#p57239
Doug