Thanks for that Wayne. It gives a really good idea of how long your run is  :mrgreen::mrgreen:

 I too love the way these modern locos perform. My dad's Walthers Proto 2000 F7 is a marvellous thing. I've had it running on my DC, sound belting out, headlight shining bright and steady, creeping along at 5 seconds for every inch and it could've gone much slower. It just got a bit frustrating waiting for it to come past. That's why we sped it up to that pace.
 Interestingly I read a review of an Atlas loco that's on my hit list - Alco C420 - and the reviewer stated the loco pulls away slower on DC than it does on DCC.

 Mike

MikeC, that is interesting in that this particular Loco will run DC or DCC. It's the only one I have seen that can be run full time as either DC or DCC.

I have now hooked up five cars behind the GP40 Chessie, and it still climbs that hill at the same pace as it did with three cars.

Wayne

Wayne I think most decoders can be programmed for either DCC or DC. Dual mode I think it's called.

 That's great when you tack a couple more cars on the train and the loco doesn't even notice! You're going to have so much pleasure from power like that.

 Mike

It's been a few days since my last update. I have been working at filling in a dip that was under the track on the ramp that went up to the back table (terminal yard).
I bought some stuff that was recommended by the local train store ( Woodland Scenics Flex Paste) and had to be very patient in getting it done. The stuff was dependent upon dry air to cure, and our humidity here runs around 69 percent even with the heat on. The bottle said a one hour cure, it took just over one day for EACH layer. When it had finally cured the thickness dropped by 2/3. So it actually took five coats to build up about 1/16".:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: You can see in this next picture where I have been working (the white spot).



Here is the approach to the terminal yard after coming up the ramp.


Slowly but surely it's beginning to take shape. I have temporarily disconnected the electrical because I am now extending the track up the ramp. Both the inner loop and the outer loop are now complete.


Wayne

It looks great Wayne, very 'professional'.

I bought some Woodland "Flex Paste".  I'll say two words about it; "Never Again".  It doesn't go off even in our normally very dry air in anything like the time it suggests (as you say more like a day or two), resists paint, stays glossy and is too fluid to be a really useful filler.

That said I'm now off to spend a wet Saturday looking through the rest of your thread - looks interesting.

Wayne

You attention to detail will pay off big time as you carry on building your layout, and it is already looking so good, as Robert said "very professional" and that about covers it.

Is that a couple a box cars I can see, looks like you stock is starting to grow along with the layout.

 

[user=285]Alan[/user] wrote:

Is that a couple a box cars I can see, looks like you stock is starting to grow along with the layout.

Yes it is Alan, I found them at a flea market just outside the train store (in parking lot) for $5.00 each. So I bought three of them, still new in their box. When I got home I realized the couplers were not compatible with everything else, so I had to invest another $1.15 each to upgrade them.

I am going to a large train show this weekend in Tampa, Florida. Over 250 exhibitors. I will be looking to increase the inventory. I am especially looking for some rail cars that were used to haul wood, as I will be building a logging camp on the layout someday.

I will be taking a lot of pictures so anything of interest I will post.

Wayne

If it's to do with model railways Wayne then it's of interest.

Please do post your photos of the show, Wayne. From a UK point of view, it's always very interesting to see how a show is run in other parts of the world. I always, for example, look foward to seeing shows posted by our Aussie contingent.

I have been working on the layout, REALLY! It just seems to take forever to get anything done lately. Of course the Holidays are in the middle of everything too.

I have finally started putting in the main Bus wires. It was fun trying to get them to lay down the way I wanted them to. I do like the way they ended up being so accessible. That will really help when the soldering begins.



Just a couple of pictures but you should get the gist of it all anyway.


Wayne

Greetings Wayne from Bristol (Wisconsin) & Wells Branch SDJR-USA:


Bet you missing the great winter sports of the north…we just dug out of three foot of snow, keeping the horses in the stable and "me & my better half" by the fire side (or layout edge).  
 
Looks like you are the master of insulation board engineering, looking forward to your continuing story.

 

Again Wayne, all this hard work and forward planning. will reap dividends later on, this part to some ( wiring) is the boring bit, but if you get it right, then the rest is great fun, as you can always run something.

Your progress is excellent, Wayne and I can see a first class layout developing.

The key to any sucessful layout is the standard of the basics, of which a major component is the correct and reliable wiring. Having recently (finally) completed the wiring on my layout (now 100% wired not 95% and left) I can tell you that my way wasn't good and you are absolutely correct in your approach. Doing the spade work correctly will make everything so much easier later. Well done my friend, keep going the way you are.

Oh yes, and I do like the idea of the bus wires being on top of the layout whilst the wiring is finished, with the scenery you plan there will be no problem in hiding them eventually.

Its really taking off now,Wayne.It will be really enjoyable for you when all your track is finally down and wired up,and you can just enjoy watching those trains going round and round and up and down….(sounds like Chubby Checker!!!)

Cheers,John.B.

[user=201]georgejacksongenius[/user] wrote:

………….watching those trains going round and round and up and down….(sounds like Chubby Checker!!!)

Cheers,John.B.

Now John, you have given your age away using Chubby as a reference :hmm

………..and co-incidentally,I'm getting a bit chubby meself!!!

Cheers,John.B.

Hey leave me out of this!  

Wayne

Well, I finally took the plunge and started the electrical soldering. Here is a picture of the first soldered joint.



I tinned the wires first, as shown in the wire at the top in the picture, then using the tips gained from this forum, cut out the top of the insulation and run in an awl under the wire to provide a pathway for the dropper wire, bent it over the bus wire and heated it up with a drop of solder, and there it is.
I think I have cut out too much of the insulation on the bus wire, so in the next joint the notch will be much smaller. I have about a half inch of exposed bus wire here. The next one will be around one quarter inch.

The only table on my layout that the bus wires will be run underneath the baseboards is the terminal yard. That is where this is going. I ran the wires under the baseboards and put white electrical tape where all the droppers will be needed. I then removed the bus wire from beneath the baseboards and will solder all joints up on top of the layout, then re-route the bus wire later, so all my soldering will be done up on top.

Wayne

That seems a neat bit of wiring there Wayne.  I do like the idea of just stripping the insulation back enough to get the dropper attached.  My bus wires are bare copper !!!

From the photo, there are just a couple of points to watch - but then I'm no electrician !!!

1. Make sure the dropper is actually soldered to the bus rather than just soldered to itself after wrapping around the bus.  It doesn't show too clearly but on the black bus wire, is there a good solder bond between that and the dropper ?

2.  I'm not sure what your "below layout" setup will be but make sure your dropper / bus  joints are well staggered or the two bus wires are well spaced to avoid short circuits between the feed and return.  Again, it doesn't show well in the photo but as it is shown,  there would be a risk of the two touching.  I'm sure, once installed underneath, the wires will be well enough apart.:roll::roll: