A shelf layout to fit in the closet

Oh hey there Ed - funny timing there. I didn't even see your post or get a notification of it, but just opened the website to post a little update.
I haven't accomplished much since my last post, I'm afraid! I basically did nothing for two months after my last post, but in the past few weeks I've been finding more time, between being sick for a month, and the arrival of snow.
Not sure if I had finished this already or not, but I weathered all my track. That's something I didn't do on the last layout. It took a long time but it is well worth it!
I've also been taking my sweeeeet time to finish up the scalescenes coal office and figuring out where I'll put that. It's not perfect but pretty good for my first scalescenes kit.
Other than that, I've glued down the station platform, and just now finished ballasting a bit of track.
I think I should have probably gone with something a bit more level for my first layout, because I find that I keep putting off working on the corner with the tunnel and hil. I'm not exactly sure how that will work out. But I guess I'll find out eventually!
Thanks for asking, Ed. I tend to work in obsessive bursts… if that makes sense. I do a lot in a short amount of time and then nothing for a while (while I'm obsessing about something else haha).
Darius

One of the nice things about this hobby, is that you can work on your layout when the mood takes you and then leave it and do something else for a while.

Keep in touch.


Ed

Did you use a ready made "track colour" paint for weathering Darius or did you mix your own.  Also, I presume you used a brush or have you got one of those wheelie things specially designed for the job ?

I'll agree, weathering the track makes a huge difference but takes time and patience - just like ballasting the darned stuff . 

Very True, Ed!
I will do, as I accomplish more.
I mixed up some of my own colours, and just used a brush. Same way with ballasting - I can understand why people buy those ballast spreading tools now… It's tedious. I've enjoyed watching That Model Railway Guy's videos on youtube. His vid on ballastingis the reason I decided to weather the track. I even tried to do the chairs as he did, and I think it turned out ok. Though I may be the only one who knows…

I have a question for whoever will give me their answers… I have the track on my layout on 4mm cork, and so far, the rest is bare plywood. As I figure out where the scenics and buildings will go,  it seems like that's a big height difference (4mm). The area I really notice is between the three sidings. between two will be the scalescenes coal office and some scratchbuilt staithes, and then above the other siding I'm hoping to put the small scalescenes goods shed., with a gravel (probably?) road going over the track between them.
Do you think I should put cork over all these areas, so that they're at least at the same height that the track is on?? It seems like it will be too low otherwise, but I really am having a hard time deciding.
Thanks

What you have with the cork underlay represents the cess alongside the track on the main line.  This provides drainage.  In yards, the ground is usually at the same level as the track, no cess.  Therefore, you can use the cork (or get a sheet of cork) to build up the areas in the yard.  Likewise, use the cork to form the basis of the road.  Buildings should be mounted on cork to be the same height as the track I think.

Where the road crosses the track, you should infill the track.  I like to scribe ( OLFA PC-L Plastic and Laminate Cutter - OLFA.com ) plastic card to represent planks and use coarse sandpaper to get a grain effect.

John

As John said Darius, the cork can be cut out to represent the drainage trenches alongside the running rails.  In the sidings, I'd use thinner cork (or, if noise isn't a problem, none at all) because sidings and yards were usually slightly lower than their adjacent running rails thus avoiding the risk of any runaway wagons rolling onto the running lines.  Remember, if the cork roadbed is used for sound deadening, don't nail the track down but glue it to the cork.  As soon as you bridge the space between rail and baseboard with anything capable of transmitting sound, you lose the insulating effect.

Bon chance…..

Well, IMO, I don't think cork does much for sound deadening but for a short layout such as this I don't think it matters.  I do agree to glue the track down.  I used Ayleen's Tacky Glue (Walmart Craft Dept) for my layout.  It is a PVA formulated to dry rubbery so has sound insulating properties.

Here's a shot of where I raised the ground level up to track height:


I decided to use Woodland Scenics foam throughout on the theory that it keeps the noise down.  I could have used cork but the sheets are a bl**dy nuisance since they curl up and break.

John

Hi there,
Just read with interest through your post on one of my now infrequent visits to this site.
Thought I would just throw in a couple of things that may help.
Google - building from scratch a model train controller.
Very simple and better control in my opinion than a well known make that after comparing I got rid of.
Also struggling for room, will the cupboard doors fold flat against the unit? can you put layout on sliding ball drawer slides to enable it to pull out a few inches to add detachable fiddle yard(s)  to one or both ends of main board?
🤔
Regards
Barry

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions, very appreciated!
I've made a bit of progress since my last post, and hopefully, in the next week or so I can do a proper update.
Barry, I am hoping to buy a simple pulse width module controller from amazon, which I think would be a similar idea. I'll have to check the videos out.
I got some money for my birthday (which is right before Christmas) to spend on the RR, and this is the first time that I felt like my money went as far as I thought it would. Usually, I feel like I buy two things and it's all gone, but not this time. I got a bunch of wagons and some trucks! I ordered from Hattons, which I have been realizing is a great place to buy from. Their prices are good and it's surprisingly affordable to ship to Canada. the package should be here any day.
That being said, I have been encouraged by this new realization, that Hattons can make my life easier… only to see just now, that they are closing out!!!

The tragedy! The heartbreak! For everyone, I'm sure! But I will say, that it is very hard, and expensive to buy any decent OO gauge models here in the (almost literal) centre of North America.
I suppose I shall have to find some new resources. I have recently also discovered this one: British Model Trains - my british model trains It's quite good, but still not as affordable as Hattons. You may see more posts in the "sales, wants, and swaps" section coming soon…
 
Darius

I find Antics to be very good:

Antics Online Model Shops and Hobby Stores

John

Hi Darius

I use Rails of Sheffield quite a lot and I believe they ship world wide.

Rails of Sheffield




Ed

Ed said

Hi Darius

I use Rails of Sheffield quite a lot and I believe they ship world wide.

Rails of Sheffield




Ed

From “Post #289,378”, 10th January 2024, 9:06 AM

As Hattons sugested Rails and even gave a link to their website, I toodled over to Sheffield and started transfering some of my pre-orders only to find their system would / could not take payment from my card. Same thing again next day, so Kernow Model Rail Centre got the lot, which join the steam rail motor, just arrived in stock !

I've had many problems with cards registered here in France Bill - UK bank cards but with a French address.

I wasn't aware Rails had any problems.  I haven't bought much from them but whenever I have, I've used a UK bank card - don't want to buy in sterling using a french euro card !!!

I have a somewhat limited understanding of why companies think everything "foreign" is fraudulent and in pre-Brexit days, if I hit such a problem, I always blacklisted the company.  Post Brexit, it could be different as UK is no longer a part of the European market and retailers have the right to restrict sales to the "Motherland" ...............  actually, they always had that right but somehow, when UK was a part of the European market, somehow "Motherland" to me, meant the whole of the European Union ............

I've never, ever had any problems with Kernow and think their service is excellent.  I'd have bought more from them but they tend to major their stock on either Southern or GWR...............

Quote Petermac:

I've never, ever had any problems with Kernow and think their service is excellent.


One of the main reasons I liked Hattons was because they used a magic spell when they sent items over to France which did not attract customs duty and TVA, which has the effect of almost doubling the UK price. I've asked Kernow if they have a similar arrangement, but I think they're too busy testing and sending out a large quantity of GWR steam railmotors, so have not yet answered my query. What has been your experiences with Brexit tax on Kernow orders Peter?

Mercy bucket,

Bill

Thanks for the replies and suggestions, very appreciated.
Yeah, Bill, I was surprised to find that my order didn't have any customs on it when it arrived here… pleasantly surprised!
I finally found some time to rearrange my desk situation, (I mostly just needed to clear all the junk piled on it haha).

The layout has moved semi-permanently from the closet to my desk. Now I don't have to clear off my dining room table and have it setup there, which is nice, and I think will make working on it a lot easier.
This is the new Christmas rolling stock, I'm quite pleased with it! It's all from Hatton's pre-owned stuff, but I don't mind. I can't afford and don't need new and fancy. Plus, I've enjoyed tweaking these and fixing them up a touch. I'm less scared that I'll destroy something expensive. Might try my hand at a bit of weathering. I wasn't planning on buying two brake vans, but it was cheaper to buy a beater and cannibalize it for parts on the others than to just buy the needed parts themselves (couplings and buffers).
I know that this collection of rolling stock probably isn't very cohesive or prototypical, (I have GWR, BR, LMS, CR, and even EWS) but frankly, I just like how they look.
I came up with the story that some rich guy (maybe named Darius?) made it his hobby to start a preservation railway, and this is the result. He just buys the stuff he thinks looks nice or unique. That's the setting for this layout. 

Also bought some road vehicles. Probably not that exciting for most of you, but I'm pumped! Especially to finally have a defender . I was going to setup the flatbed at the coal staithes, but now that I see it, I don't think I will. I'll find a home for it.




When I was cleaning my track, I remembered these little gems I bought in the summer! I found them online and detoured through downtown Calgary to pick them up on my move from Vancouver to Winnipeg… Not sure what my priorities were haha. I think I got both of them for $70CAD, they were so cheap because they were listed as partially built. When I picked them up and saw them, I realized what I was getting myself into…. They didn't even have instructions! I managed to track down the instructions by emailing here: Home Page
After studying the models and instructions last night, I came to the conclusion that the Ruston is 95% complete! I just need to do a few touch-ups with some paint and glue. The plan will be to buy a shunter's truck or 1-plank wagon to attach extra pickups to, Hornby-style. I didn't want to do this, but I realized that I have to, since the wheelbase is short enough that it's physically impossible for the locomotive to get power when passing over my Hornby points.
While the Hunslet looks amazing, only the exterior is finished (the hood/bonnet isn't even attached). I decided that I'm not going to try to tackle that. It's wayyyyy over my head. Good thing the Ruston was finished, otherwise it would have been impossible for me as well. Not sure why I thought this would be a good starting point for brass kits haha.
That being said, it seems like everything is present for the Hunslet, so if anybody wants it, I am wide open to trading it! Can send more pics if you're interested.
So, for $70 I got a Ruston, and a precious box to store away. I still think it's a good deal.

PS, sorry for the blurry photos. My phone camera is even more broken, so I took these in selfie mode haha

Hopefully I'm not too long-winded for you all!
Love hearing your thoughts!
Darius 

Hi Darius

Wouldn't worry about the rolling stock not being prototypical, I've just bought some North American locos and box cars.

Rule 1 always applies.

The loco kits do look very nice and I'm sure there are a few members who do brass kits. Hopefully someone will be along soon with some suggestions.


Ed

Hi Darius,

Loco building can usefully be compared to leaning how to walk before you run. All kit building is an excellent way to develop necessary modelling skills needed for more complex projects, maybe years down the line and I built many railway kits in my youth ranging from buildings to rolling stock to period road vehicles, then onto my first white metal loco kit, a Finecast ex-Taff Vale 0-6-2, initially with a Triang RTR chassis (replacement chassis now in the to-do box).

For brass loco kits, you will need well developed skills in soldering white metal and brass, accuracy in cutting, drilling, folding and shaping brass sheet for bodywork and all sorts of bits and bobs for your loco, not to mention chassis construction with the intricacies of frame alignment, wheeling up, quartering, gearbox building, electrics, etc and not forgetting airbrushing and weathering. That should keep you engrossed for several decades !

There are some useful resources on the web, but only really one book on building chassis, this being 'Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm' by Iain Rice. The book is quite old now, but highly relevant, extensive and covers everything you need to know, including how to correct errors when things go wrong. You will also need a few more tools.

So build up your skills, carry out research and continually enjoy the journey.

I’ve got several other white metal loco kits in the kit box still to build before my first brass loco kit, an ex-MSWJR  4-4-0, taken into GWR service post grouping and I’m looking forward to building it.

Oh and as you already have the brass Hunslet kit and at a jolly good price, you could consider holding on to it a while longer while you prepare yourself to take on the build, which will not be so arduous as you currently think.

Best,

Bill

                                 

Hello Darius,  
I think that the mixture of rolling stock looks quite interesting with the different liveries and types of vehicle.  They might also give you some ideas regarding different lineside industries which each vehicle has to be delivered to or collected from.  For instance, a small dairy or creamery for the milk tank, or a coal merchant for the coal wagon and a small goods shed for the various vans.

Terry

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen!

Bill, thanks for the advice and encouragement..! I should start with the coach kits that I've been putting off building. I definitely won't get rid of the kit unless there's somebody who's interested… Thankfully it's pretty tiny :) Maybe someday I'll be able to manage it!
Yes Terry! I've already been working on the coal staithes. They should be mostly finished this week, so I'll try to post a pic.
Also, is it normal to be thinking/dreaming about the next layout before the current one is even halfway finished??? Ever since I started back up, I have been scheming as to how I could fit a tiny loop layout into my bedroom…. and I might have finally found a reasonable and viable solution.
But I must finish my inglenook first!

D_Will said

Also, is it normal to be thinking/dreaming about the next layout before the current one is even halfway finished???

From “Post #289,482”, 21st January 2024, 2:31 AM

Yep, quite normal and shows creativity, but it's far better to finish a current layout as far as possible to make sure you make mistakes on that one, not the next one!

Best,

Bill