Looks like this thread has fallen by the wayside!

Photography is another of my wallet draining afflictions, I have 8 cameras and about a dozen lenses.

First the "collectors items" that got used in the past and kept for the usual nostalgic reasons

Three Zeiss  folding 120 film relics, a Super Ikonta 531/2, 8 or 16 exposures on 120 film, has a little blanking plate that goes in the back for the 16 exposure mode Coupled range finder 3.5 Tessar dates from early 50s and before.  A smaller Ikonta only takes 16 on 120 film, lastly a Nettar 12 on 120. One other film camera a Minolta 7000, bought in about 1984/5 ish used until I "went digital" with the cameras that is none of yer DCC for me!

Digital, Minolta Z1, early bridge camera languishes in the cupboard now, Minolta A200 later bridge, has antishake, still gets quite a bit of use, Minolta 5D DSLR  6 Mpx and Sony A350 14Mpx, think I prefer the 5D, the A350 is a bit noisy at higher ISOs

Lenses, from Tamron,  17-50/2.8,  55-200, 70-300 and 90/2.8 macro, Minolta 50/1.8, Tokina 80-400. sigma 600/8 mirror, a few others that don't get much use now, left over from film days Minolta and Tamrons the 28-105, 35-135  and some Manual focus primes.

I mostly use a Monopod outdoors, doubles as a walking pole! Typical days shooting could be Bournemouth Air show, Mottisfont abbey rose gardens, Brownsea Island nature reserve, Classis car shows, or local folk festivals, or just roaming around Dorset villages, landscapes and coastline.

Tripod sometimes comes out usually for macro work.

I have an old Olympus OM-2 SLR with 50mm lens, a wide angle lens, a 100mm 1:28 lens and a 200mm 1:4 lens. These were all my fathers until he retired from being a professional photographer for many newspapers, national and local, magazines and freelance and the RAAF, where he started, for over the last 60+ years.  But all those Olympus camera bits'n'pieces has been superseded by my JVC Everio Digital Video/Stills Camera with 20x zoom, which I use for all my pics on here. Such a great little camera and it saves changing lenses !

Cheers, Gary.

Not being flashy but I have 2 cameras.

A 6 Mega Pixel Canon A700 Powershoot that I use for quick 'point & shoot snaps' and a 10.2 Mega Pixel Pentax K200D Digital SLR that I use for more serious work. I've always favoured Pentax cameras, starting with a Pentax MX which was my first SLR. I then moved up to an ME Super (I actually had 2 bodies) which lasted me for 20 years before I moved up to the digital SLR. I also used to do my own colour prints using a Durst enlarger and a Jobo Processing Drum but they have been made redundant by the digital age. 

I bought the little Canon based on a Which? report and it has been a smashing little camera that just fits in the pocket instead of having to lug a bag around.

I use a Canon 40 D and a Canon 7 D with a variety of different lenses. Main interest is wildlife but will be using to post my layout when it eventually gets  underway.

Have had no issues with the Canons ( except price ). Also had a great Nikon Coolpix which was what I started with . ( my dad fell heir to it eventually )

Toto

Pleased this thread has been resurrected.

Has anyone noticed the way that prices (especially on eBay) have dropped for DSLRs.
What were four figures a short time ago are now under £100.
With careful research into number of activations etc., there are many bargains to be had.

At home I use a Canon 450d which to be fair I'm not entirely happy with as the results always seem to need sharpening post capture. At work I take a lot of pictures using a small Pentax WG 10.  (I'm a fire investigation officer) it's a great little camera and will focus down to 1 cm with a microscope mode which is fantastic for close up and macro. You can also wash it under the tap, drop it on the floor and generally abuse it more than most others, which makes it ideal for my work and great around a workshop environment!  Ps. I don't have any connection with Pentax. I just like their camera!

 I don't remember missing this thread before, (The joys of getting older), but I have changed my camera anyway.

 I now have a Fuji Finepix S2980, and I am still learning how to use it as you can see by my last 6-8 pics :oops::oops:

I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned that for most shots of models and layouts a bridge camera or a good compact is better than a DSLR; as they have a smaller sensor the focal length of their lenses is much shorter thus the depth of field is far greater (they mostly quote their focal lengths as "35mm equivalent" not the actual value; example my Minolta A200 bridge lens is actually 7.2 - 50.8mm but is normally quoted as 28-200mm 35mm equivalent))

What this means in terms of results is if you take a pics of a loco from head on with a bridge cam you may get nearly all the loco in acceptable focus, whereas with a DSLR you would be lucky to get half the loco in acceptable focus, unless you spend lotsa pennies on lenses.

Other factors to take into account, the more light you have the smaller aperture  you can use, this also improves depth of field, using a tripod can also allow you to use a smaller aperture as you can make a longer exposure thus a smaller aperture. (the lower the F number the larger the aperture, F2.8 is a big hole, lots of light gets in, F16 small hole, therefore less light, the shutter speed and the aperture between them control the amount of light getting to the sensor (or film) if you need to take a picture of a black cat in a coal hole at midnight you need a very large aperture, and a very long exposure. a sheet of paper in full sunlight, tiny aperture and very short exposure) It's all a compromise, aperture affecting depth of field, shutter speed affecting movement. One other point worth bearing in mind is what is known as the "hyperfocal distance" ; as previously mentioned the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field, meaning the area of acceptable focus, if say the depth of field for a particular aperture setting is 6 inches  then from the point of best focus two inches in front of that will be acceptable and four inches behind, so if you had a loco 6 inches long and the dome was 2 inches from the front, focussing on the dome would give acceptable focus of the whole loco; older lenses often had markings showing what was in focus at various apertures.

I see quite a few photos posted where there is not enough light on the subject to be able to make out detail. If you have a dark coloured loco, say, against a much lighter background, most cameras will expose for the light background, flash can help, but often results in harsh shadows, and often unwanted bright reflections. Try using something light, a large sheet of plain paper or material, or a mirror to reflect light onto the subject, use a desk or spot lamp, (that may produce a different colour, check the camera's white balance setting (if it has that option). You can buy an LED ring light which fixes to the camera lens filter screw (they come with a set of adapter rings for different size lenses), which I find ideal for close ups of locos, coaches or other detail, Chinese Ebay shops usually have them cheaper than UK outlets.

If you are buying a camera and will want to take shots of your layout or stock, look for one which has an "anti-shake" option (manufacturers have various names for this !), that allows you to take pics at lower shutter speeds with less chance of a blurred shot due to shaky hands. Also look for options to use Aperture or Shutter priority aas well as just an Auto setting or various modes, "sports, portrait, macro etc" . Talking of shaky hands, the practice of holding the camera at arms length is a recipe for blurred shots, a fraction of an inch movement at the shoulder or elbow, becomes inches at the end of the arm, an eye level view finder should be a must on every camera, the screen on the back is OK for the menu, or viewing shots alreay taken, but in most cases not for taking a shot. Where possible if you don't have a tripod or monopod, find some other support like a fence, wall or post to lean on.

Hope this is not too confusing, however in these days of digital photography once you have a camera and memory card you can practice with no further outlay (except maybe batteries, but ideally look for a camera using Lithium rechargeables)

I noticed further back the thread that focus was a problem with blurry shots.

A few things need to be considered. If using a tripod and even more so if used in conjunction with a remote shutter control, make sure that any vibration detection fitted to either your lens or your camera body is switched off.

The idea here is that if on a tripod etc there will likely be no vibration. This being the case, the vibration detection system which uses tiny motors will search for vibration and guess what………it can actually cause vibration itself just through the constant movement of the motor / servo.

This is just a tip that may solve your out of focus shots. You could also use the self timer ( if fitted ) in conjunction with a good solid tripod or a bean bag.

If using a tripod which is fitted with a quick release plate, I would  recommend you use a quick release plate from the same manufacturer as the tripod. I have tried using third party plates but find they are usually a sloppy fit. Other people may have a different experience though. I'm just giving mine based on using a Jessops fitting.

If there are any other queries with regards to the above, give me a shout. I'm not a Pro photographer but have read quite extensively on photography and have experienced a few things through practice myself. On that basis I'm willing to help or scratch my head along with everyone else trying to get a solution.

Cheers

Toto

PS a good start for anyone wanting to learn a bit more on the subject would be a book called "understanding exposure" by a guy called Bryan Peterson.

Mike,

We must have been writing our words of wisdom at the same time so apologies if anything I have added repeats with yourself. It's no plagiarism honest……..

I echo what you have commented though.


Happy snapping.

Toto.

Having spent a few years working in a photographic studio in London serving the advertising industry during the "golden years" of the 1980's, I had the good fortune to use some really high quality equipment although in those days, it was all "film".  Cameras ranged from 35mm through 6 x 7 up to 10 x 8 plate cameras.

We had our own fully equipped commercial darkroom for black and white but always used the local labs for colour - cheap and very quick (usually 1 hour or less for our preferred Ektachrome and Kodachrome films).

Unfortunately, most of the studio cameras were either way too expensive for me or way too bulky for "domestic" photography.

I settled on an ex-studio Nikon F3 as my first "decent" 35mm camera which I still have.  I also still have a Mamiya M645 medium format "120 roll film" camera which took wonderful photos.  I had my own darkroom at home but again, only processed black and white, preferring to use the labs for what little colour work I did.

For many years, I avoided digital like the plague considering it "not proper photography" and, without the necessary computer skills, impossible for "post shutter manipulation" - the part I really enjoyed. 

Eventually, my resolve broke and I purchased an Olympus "point and shoot" pocket digital which took remarkably good photos given it's low price.  Moving up from "pocket" to a larger camera, I made the mistake of buying a bridge camera - a Panasonic Lumix FZ 28 which, to me, falls badly between two stools.  Whilst it "has it's moments", it's neither a pocket camera nor a DSLR.  It does it's job but I now tend to use the last addition to the collection, a Nikon Coolpix S 8200 as my "everyday" camera.  I'm really very pleased with it.

I had a foray into video with both a VHS and Betamax outfit - both of which I still have.   Unfortunately, Betamax disappeared although it was, to me, the better  system.  I now have an old, and seldom used,  Sony Handycam and a recent  acquisition - a "Go-Pro" Hero wide angle video camera which is great  fun to play around with.

One day, when or if I retire, I'd like to get back to "proper" photography, simply because I really enjoyed it. 

For general work I use a Samsung L100. 8.2 MP. Bought of Ebay brand new for just under £30 incl. P&P and for the Natural History work and anything where I need a better shot I use a Panasonic Lumix FZ 28. Thank god for the Intelligent Auto Setting. Most of the pics in my gallery have been taken on one or the other of these. I also have an older Canon Camcorder and a Sony pocket camera that sometimes needs a rap on the front to make the screen work.

Ahhhhhh…………the old rap on the front type. Can't beat them and I think everyone has had a product of some sort from that manufacturer. They never actually give up and die, do they

Toto

No they don't. It's just a bit annoying at times. Still it is only used as a last resort nowadays. Can never remember to put new batteries in it.

You won't  want to spend the money on batteries when you have a new Lumix.

My other half has the same camera andI am constantly borrowing it in favour of my two Canon DSLR's as its less hassle and takes fantastic images. Very versatile indeed. I'm sure you will enjoy it.

Happy snapping……and modelling.

Toto.

Generally a Sony DSC-H9. The screen is on a hinge so can be turned up when getting down low.

However - I have recently built a Lomo Konstruktor with close up lens. This is a link to an effort on flikr:

Large bogie chassis Konstructor CU

home processed monochrome.

With me things have now changed dramatically. The Samsung is used for just general snaps (it lives in my shopping rucksack so it's always ready if the unexpected turns up). The Sony has had the batteries taken out and now lives in a drawer along with two Zenith 35mm cameras and a Panasonic 35mm. Under the table in the window I have a Konica 35mm with three lenses and a load of accessories in an aluminium case bought from the local Charity shop for £20 and everything works. My main cameras now, the ones I do most of my Railway and nature shots on are Nikons. The oldest is a Nikon D3100 the newer a D3200. Brilliant cameras. to supplement them I have a Tamrom 18/200 lens and a Tamron 70/300 Macro lens. I also have the original Nikon 18/55 standard lens and one of the latest Nikon 70/300 lens. The later is brilliant and I get really good macro shots of insects from 10 feet away. I still also use the Panasonic, but mainly for videos. It easy and gives excellent results. Am saving hard for a new Sigma 150/500 or if possible the 150/600 but as they are well over my pocket money for the moment I will have to wait.
Take a look at My Flickr page for examples of the results I'm getting.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/120909355@N05/

Nikon COOLPIX L120, 14.1 mp, has a decent close-up option in the menu (probably 5-7.5 cm) and autofocus (which can be a nuisance). Bit of a battery hog (4 AA's), I'm still looking for a mains power pack for it when in the workshop. Most of those pixels are wasted, for this website 8 mp is the limit. Field depth leaves a lot to be desired close-up. Mounted on a tripod for nearly all photo's. No remote, which means a gentle touch on the button when on the tripod. No GPS location issues with this one.

Most of the color balance/brightness/sharpness/etc. parameters are adjusted with the software that came with it (ViewNX-2) which is really simple to use, so I really don't care whether it's dark or bright or not too sharp or too big or too small. Easier to use than my old Minolta film SLR which could get down to less than 1 cm with macro-lenses (but no depth) and had a decent wide-angle lens, but nowhere near the control (especially focus). These days I take snaps, not photo's, so the convenience of 1300+ photo's far outweighs changing film every 36 or so. Plus it's got a nifty mpeg capability for U-Tube and the like.

Nigel

I've added a Panasonic TZ35 and a JVC video cam and a few more lenses since last posting. Being of sound mind I spent some of the proceeds of the house sale on lenses, I now have 4 f2.8 lenses to cover from 11 to 210 focal lengths for use on the DSLRs,  but still use the Minolta bridge for modelling pics.

Pleased to see this on back online.

Back when the topic began I was using an Olympus C300 (slidey-front thingy, rather good for its kind) alongside a Minolta Dynax SLR.

I still have the Minolta and make occasional use of it.

I have inherited a Canon T50 film camera from my late father-in-law though have yet to make any use of it and, realistically, I feel I am unlikely ever to do so.

My "point and squirt" has for a while now been a Nikon L120 Coolpix but for serious work I have just obtained a Canon EOS7D (Mk1) which has finally allowed me to enter the DSLR realm.

And late to the party as ever I also now take a few photos and videos using the iPhone 4S though it took me a long time to come to terms with making use of a telephone to take pictures.