Road over river

Wow, you've nailed it Douglas and those faded white quoins and landing scars from low flying cars reveal a colourful past!

Bill
 :thumbs

No worries! That looks ace, you've detailed the roadway perfectly as well! Where is it going to sit?

Wonderful piece of modelling Doug.

Terry

Thank you gentlemen.

Chris, the bridge will go 'upstream' of the rail girder bridge, [ in effect about 3-4 inches away]hopefully to give the impression of an ancient way over the river to link the area now around the station and the rural space the other side. I'm hoiping that the contrast between the industrial rail bridge and the [hopefully] rustic road bridge will prove interesting.

Douglas

Good job, yes that looks the part!
Michael

Thank you Doug, exactly what I was hoping to put on NE over the river at Llandyfriog Junction.
How wide is the road bed?

Cheers
Marty

Hi Marty,

It's 45mm between the buttress openings, I put my model lorry between two 'wumps of wood' and moved them 'till it looked right, i.e. it's not copied from a prototype!

I've added the road profile, if that helps. To get the wide coping stones I opened John's TX46, snipped the long rows of stones, then put them into an editor, and stretched them sideways. Hope that helps.




Loved the running session!

Doug

Thank you Doug… perfect.  I have the scenery creating itch.
 

So nice to be back.

Marty

Your'e welcome. I forgot to say the length from end to end of the buttresses is 29mm. Of course you'll need to shrink it a bit, but those are the general proportions.

D

Hi Doug
That bridge is amazing……I am, as always, utterly impressed with your precision and attention to detail.

The Finn(?) board sounds like a real find…..now I have to find a source in Canada. I use what we call Millboard (used for picture and poster backing) it comes in different thicknesses but not one that is exactly 2mm which can cause problems.

In your reply to the concrete hard standing post I was admiring the brick architraves (?) over the door and window…..do you actually cut out space in the brick paper of the wall and insert the architrave…….I glue mine on top and it is very obvious…..yours looks so much better.

Best wishes

John

Hullo John,
How nice to see you on one of my posts! Thanks for your kind remarks,I do apply my door and window tops over the wall texture,but I print the arches etc sheets on 80gm paper, turn each detail face side down on the sticky bit of a Post it note and very generously apply stick adhesive and rest in place, roll down well, and here is the important bit, when almost dry, rub over firmly with the smooth heel of my scalpel handle. (A round fountain pen does equally well). A bit of a faff, but it works. This all supposed you don't want the lintel to stand out!

Keep safe

Douglas

Hello Doug. Following on from John's query above, what did you use for the door knob?
Regards,


Terry

It's a little brass 3/8" long nail/pin, left over from a few an old shipwright chum gave me [grudgingly]in 1976. They were for marking a divisions on a rum 'dipstick'. I have about a dozen left, wrapped in gold foil, glued to a piece of 4 x 2, and in view of my garage burglar alarm.

Doug

" You can always tell a Chief Shipwright" [But not much]

D

[user=312]Chubber[/user] wrote:

Hullo John,
How nice to see you on one of my posts! Thanks for your kind remarks,I do apply my door and window tops over the wall texture,but I print the arches etc sheets on 80gm paper, turn each detail face side down on the sticky bit of a Post it note and very generously apply stick adhesive and rest in place, roll down well, an d here is the important bit, when almost dry, rub over firmly with the smooth heel of my scalpel handle. (A round fountain pen does equally well). A bit of a faff, but it works. This all supposed you don't want the lintle to stand out!

Keep safe

Douglas

Thanks Doug

Thats amazing and so effective

Of course, lintel was the word I was searching for:oops:. I had also forgotten about that tip of yours about burnishing with a scalpel handle:oops::oops:. 

That is a very useful idea about using a post it note to secure small fiddly bits while applying adhesive…brilliant…thank you!

I use the same weight of paper to print everything…..20lb / 75gm……..is the 80gm that you use for arches etc heavier or lighter than the paper used for wall textures etc?

Best wishes

John

I use a heavier,100 gm premium paper Arjo Wiggins [Basingstoke]'Conquerer' watermarked paper for textures I am going to bash about, it has  a slight 'woven' finish. Together with Epson Durabrite ink it takes an awful lot of punishment. Sadly I have but one box left, I believe they have gone into administration. I bought two boxes when we lived there years ago. I expect you could find an equivalent. The 80gm stuff is what is usuallu called 'office' paper.

D

[user=312]Chubber[/user] wrote:

I use a heavier,100 gm premium paper Arjo Wiggins [Basingstoke]'Conquerer' watermarked paper for textures I am going to bash about, it has  a slight 'woven' finish. Together with Epson Durabrite ink it takes an awful lot of punishment. Sadly I have but one box left, I believe they have gone into administration. I bought two boxes when we lived there years ago. I expect you could find an equivalent. The 80gm stuff is what is usuallu called 'office' paper.

D

Thanks Doug…..glad we had this conversation…..I thought my 80 gm was Premium! At least it says so on the packet!
I wonder what weight the cheap paper is that Mrs D is supposed to use for her Gardening Club? 

I guess I had better look around for super premium at 100 gm.

Thanks again for all the advice

Cheers

John

I'm sure most good stationers would sell "Conquerer" Doug. 

My Dad always used it for anything important - typed top copy on Conquerer then a carbon copy on something like 40 gm- unless he needed 2 copies in which case, the Conquerer was too heavy to make a sandwich of 3 pieces of paper plus 2 pieces of carbon paper so the top copy would be on 80gm.

Love the clever touch of the fading white marker paint on the buttresses - few people would think of that but it's touches like that that set you apart from "the few" ……………..