Building 4mm Coaches in Plastikard.
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LBSCR bogie coaches.
Hi Terry,Most clear sheets are not styrene based. If MEK doesn't work not sure what would.
Low tack double sided adhesive tape tape (used for mounting photos) works well for this sort of project using overhead transparency sheets. No paper involved.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Sticking disparate plastic sheet including glazing acrylic seems to work OK with canopy glue, Roket do 'Glue and Glaze' which seems to remain very slightly flexible. I have used it to glue acrylic inside plasticard which was then bent [albeit slightly] to make a shallow bay window.
Doug
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil…' Aesop's Fables
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"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
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Thank you Nigel and Doug.
To quote the crew of Apollo 13, "Houston, we have a problem!" The clear plastic backing coming away from the white styrene has come to the fore again. The clear plastic appears to have expanded so that every white styrene upright, between windows and doors, has an arc of clear plastic behind it. Also, the right-hand end (non-brake end) of one of the coach sides has distorted so that some of the windows have a distinct slant to them. The same coach side has also taken on a rather wavy look when viewed on edge. I am wondering whether applying superglue to the edges has had a detrimental effect. Suffice to say, the coach sides produced so far are not fit for purpose and will have to be consigned to the rubbish bin.
Where to go from here? I am minded to start again, but will obtain some clear and white styrene from Slater's Ltd., in the hope they will be compatible with each other when stuck together.
Watch this space.
Terry
Posted
Inactive Member
I don't know if you remember my failed attempt to build a G scale Australian NR diesel?
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=6870&forum_id=14
I used styrene sheets of different thicknesses and laminated them in some areas to create the detail on the body.
Well, the whole loco developed a twist. Apparently styrene glue keeps working for some time after the initial application. In my case, I came back to the project after some months; to find a loco style barbers' pole. :shock:
I had more success when I scratch built my O scale rolling stock for my MMR. By then I had learned to leave the model clamped for a couple of days, when I was laminating.
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14158&forum_id=14&highlight=O+scale+rolling+stock
I tend to glue in all of the "glass" for many windows at a time, then add the frames on top of the glass.
For what it's worth . . .
Cheers
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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Styrene distorts with the use of a lot of solvent, and that includes CA. It is relative, gluing a lot of small pieces together uses a lot of solvent. Remember the Fairford engine shed I was building? That is what happened. I switched to Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (green label and stopper) after that, painted in the joints, that seemed to work. Very short working time, evaporates faster than a speeding bullet, and the solvent doesn't saturate the styrene. Hold the pieces together, paint over the joint, capillary action will draw it in. Shifting to black styrene for large jobs also helped. No distortion in that black beast of a Bo-Bo On30 diesel body after a year.
Might be worthwhile not attempting to glue the clear in. Use a tight drop in frame and cover the entire side.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Thank you Max and Nigel. I have already ordered some Slaters' Plastikard and Plastiglaz for my next attempt.
Regards,
Terry
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Is there any progress on this?
Cheers Andy
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Terry
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