Blanking Platewh

Hi All.  I have just managed to get the bodywork off of the chassis of a Bachmann 2EPB, but now I am ready to remove the blanking plate, I know where it is , but when I tried to remove it, it wouldn’t budge . Does it pull out from front to back? Or upwards? If I didn’t know better? I would say that it had already been done. What I  mean I didn’t pay for someone to do it, thinking about it maybe I should have paid someone. LOL.  And I am certain that Hattons didn’t do it free, especially for a Londoner! . Can someone please help me? Best wishes Kevin 

I don't know the loco Kevin but blanking plates are simple plugs - i.e. they pull straight out.

You say "from front to back or upwards" - we can't see your loco so have no idea of the orientation.  Without a photo, we're guessing just as much as you are ……………………
 
One will certainly be fitted - if there wasn't one there, I don't think the loco would work at all.

From memory, the Bachmann EPBs, CEPs and MLVs all have the plugs mounted horizontally, which means pulling them straight upwards.

Edit: I checked with a search on Google and found a pic of the 'works' in an RMweb review: yes, my memory was correct! :)

Hi Petermac and Jeff. Thank you both for your replies.Surprisingly I have removed quite a few blanking plates, but, this one seems to be different ? On the end of the box it says “ 21 DCC” which got me guessing? it didn’t say ready , but when I attempted to pull on it it wouldn’t move, so I turned to the extensive panel of enthusiasts. Of course I am so ham fisted so I have left it alone for later.
Best wishes Kevin 

Slide a thin screwdriver underneath the blanking plug (there is room) and lever it out with that. Don't try to pull it out with finger and thumb, because any slip and you end up bending one of the pins. 

Hi Robert. Thank you for your reply. I will try that. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Jeff. Yet another reply? Whilst I have it off, to fit a Decoder in the 146 , I had an idea? What about passengers?And even a number in the blind? And then it comes down to painting the passengers something I had never dreamed of before, let alone the number blind.  Best wishes Kevin 

[user=1238]RFS[/user] wrote:

Slide a thin screwdriver underneath the blanking plug (there is room) and lever it out with that. Don't try to pull it out with finger and thumb, because any slip and you end up bending one of the pins. 

Hi Robert.  I have the 146 on a tray in front of me, and a thin screwdriver, not forgetting my “ thick head “ . You said under, but under what? Become it looks like it slides in?  Kevin 

Kevin

He means use a small jewellery screwdriver  and insert between the banking plate and the socket.

Please note you lever it a little bit one side then the other and continue doing that until its either comes off or you are able to remove with fingers . Do it gently


Brian

Hi Robert. Silly me, I did try again, success? I have removed the blanking plate, and forgotten which way up it goes.They don’t make things easy. Sorry to bother you again. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Brian.   Thank you for your reply. That is something that I learned about screwing something down, years ago.If only I was young again?  Best wishes Kevin 

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Robert. Silly me, I did try again, success? I have removed the blanking plate, and forgotten which way up it goes.They don’t make things easy. Sorry to bother you again. Best wishes Kevin 

 

Confused here Kevin you were asking about removing the blanking plate which you now say you have removed
 Why are you putting it back surely you are fitting a decoder or are you asking which way around does the decoder go ?

If you are fitting the decoder clink the link below on johns site

Bromsgrovemodels.co.uk
 
Brian

Hi Brian.   Thank you for your reply. Of course I am not putting it back, I am replacing it with a Decoder, and I don’t know which way up the Decoder goes on.  Best wishes Kevin      PS That is how I figured out, the best method for “ getting it off in the first instance “.     

Kevin it wont help you this time but next time whenever removing any parts , blanking plates, W.H.Y  take a picture on your Ipad BEFORE removal. This way you know which way and where things go back  :thumbs
Cheers

Matt

Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply. I actually thought of that, late.in the day. After my initial self doubt, I turned to “ Bromsmods “ and got more confidence. Until it all went pear shaped. But even with my iPhone and internet distractions, I got there. And I was surprised my class 146 runs ( after my experiences of Shunting Locos) runs much faster than expected.  Best wishes Kevin 

Good job !  What system do you use NCE ?  I know with some systems you can select 'shunt' mode to give you more controlled slow running. No Idea if the NCE system does this ?  Anyone ?
Cheers

Matt

Hi Matt  Thank you again. Yes NCE according to some? the poor mans choice. But with Planks/ Modules? Two Locos, or a choice of one of two is quite enough. All those years ago, when I had a pair of H & M Duettes they had a Slide switch that was supposed to do shunt. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Brian.  Yet another reply. Now I know that my 146 works with the new Decoder fitted. I don’t know if you have a point of view about model railway seated passengers on trains before I reassemble the class 146 .Best wishes.  Kevin 

The decoder will only fit one way, Kevin. There isn't sufficient space to put it backwards, and if you try to insert it upside down, you'll find it won't go because one of the 22 pin holes is actually blind, - note the pins on the pcb have one "missing" at one end. That is deliberately done this way so that there can be only one orientation for the blanking plug or decoder.

Hi Jeff. Thank you again. I did manage to do it okay. Now whilst I have got it off, I have been thinking about Passengers? I tested the chassis with a quick run back and forth and it goes faster than I am used to, a very bright head light without the bodywork on.  Best wishes Kevin