Appears to be dead

Hi Max, Petermac, Ed, and all of YMRC. For me this is “ Deja Vu “ . Back in February 2016 I had the same problem.It did get sorted and up until now I have used the same method of wiring without any trouble. Last night, after a very tiring day. I oiked up the set of “ points “ for want of a better name? Incidently I have heard the term “ splitting the points “ I didn’t do it myself.  And at that time one of the wires became loose. Now I have replaced that wire, and later today I will reassemble the whole kit and caboodle and report back. I did learn the techniques of a YouTube Modeller ,good or bad? Who was fussy about soldered joints corroding, to save that happening he scrubs the joint with clean water and then dries it. I have tried this idea, and the wires stayed put! Best wishes Kevin 

For cleaning before soldering I wouldn’t use water I’d use a soldering flux pen to clean the area before soldering. They are cheep too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223173891383?ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-53481-19255-0%252F1%253Fff3%253D2%2526pub%253D5575376664%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5338268676%2526customid%253Dfed8108e-4d0a-455b-a1db-bfbbed381325%2526lgeo%253D1%2526item%253D223173891383%2526srcrot%253D710-53481-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D1833781445660%2526rvr_ts%253D871d86881680a16d9fe3f96afff55710

I wonder if this might help - something I did for my own use originally when trying to explain turnout or point parts. 

The "Switch" rails are joined to the Closer rails by the "hinge".  The Switch rails are normally referred to by modellers (incorrectly) as the blades.

Notwithstanding that, Kevin it would be good to know what bits of your turnout/point are live and what parts are dead.  The train can only go straight on or around the curve so perhaps you should indicate

(1) whether the problem occurs for trains going straight on or around the curve or both
(2) whether the loco stops when coming from the left in the above photo (toe end) or the right (frog/crossing end)
(3) whether you can prove that the attached wire (seen bottom right) is actually properly connected to the crossing/frog i.e. there is electrical continuity between these two.


Finally (4) The drawings of the frog polarity switch posted earlier are, of course, right so can you confirm that you have wired up your point/turnout exactly as drawn.


I am sure that the guys on here can sort you out once the problem is understood.  Hopefully the above will lead us down that path.

Best wishes

Barry

Hi Chris.  Thank you for your reply. I do have a Fibre glass pencil, if that is what you mean, but, I have been warned off them, because the Fibre glass particles get everywhere. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Max, Ron, Ed,, Matt and all Members that haven’t given up on the will to live on this thread :hi After all the faffing around it could be that the wire that came loose when “ oiking up the point “ could have been loose since the previous occasion??? Now at last the trains are running, the throw of the wire in tube , with all that faffing around, has got to be adjusted . And it is quite surprising how quickly the track gets dirty. Best wishes Kevin 

:doublethumb :doublethumb :doublethumb

Ed

Hi Ed. The worse  part is getting the wire in tube correct, and then having to begin again.  Best wishes Kevin 

:Happy :Happy :Happy
Nigel 

Hi Nigel  Thank you. But I have now got to line up the wire to fit the throw bar.  Best wishes Kevin 

Kevin, on my manually operated turnouts, I use a  connector from terminal strips


to join two pieces of wire rod together to get correct throw length



of course, this can be hidden under scenery.

Hi Ron. Thank you very much. I have dismantled loads of them, but, I never got to use any yet. It may save me some bother . Watch this space.  Best wishes Kevin 

Nice idea Ron , whats the longest you have stretched that point rodding to ? 
Cheers

Matt

My mate showed me that, as cutting one piece of rodding & bending it to the correct length is b… hard so by having two pieces of rod, the metal joiner makes  life easier…

Matt, initially all the turnouts ( 20 plus ) here were operated by WIT & a slide switch & using that connector as described


but with the number of slide switches along the from to the baseboard, even my mate ( who was a signalman back in the UK ) got confused so I electrified many of them controlled from a panel.
But many still are manual like this one


the tubing and connector is cut into the 3mm cork & hidden under the grassed area tween slide switch & track.

Hi Ron.  Thank you very much. With my module planks being on the smaller side, wire in tube is usually less bothersome. After all I did have the point working, mechanically but not electrically and it was such a simple mistake to make.  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi All.  At this late stage in the thread, I have just discovered an anomaly with my Left Hand Point, I am about to begin again, I got out my straight edge steel rule and offered it up to the point, only to discover that the R/H rail is far from straight, if it was much worse one would think that it was a “ Point on a Curve “, but of course now it has been modified I am well and truly stuck with it. Any suggestions?  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi All.  Now that I have decided to go out and purchase a new Point, It is time to lay a new length of track and while I am about it the copper clad sleepers as well. But, I glued the previous copper clad using Araldite, and what a job that is proving to be to get a flat surface on the baseboard. I lifted the sleepers with a chisel, but the adhesive is another story, chisel, file, glass paper and there is still a great lump remaining. Any ideas please??? Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin

Araldite is wonderful stuff until you hav to remove it!!

I have had success with Nitromors - a proprietary paint stripper than you can get from hardward stores/DIY sheds - but ITS NASTY STUFF so take ALL of the precautions on the tin and BE CAREFUL.



Someone told me once that nail varnish remover also works but I cannot vouch for its success.  These sort of chemical-based products have gone through so many Health & Safety changes over the recent years that what may have worked a decade ago may not work now.

Hope that helps

Barry

Hi Barry. Thank you for your reply. Anything nasty leaves me cold and I would rather work around the lump. I usually swear by the stuff , but, this time I am swearing at it.    Best wishes Kevin