Wiring a Three way point

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Sol
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OK Kevin, then to be able to sort out the mess, we need a drawing of your turnout and the wiring done. It may mean you will have to contact a local club and get someone to visit you. One of my friends likes a personal explanation going over it step by step with him & then he is good from then on.

Ron
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Sol
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Kevin, can I assume that the rails from the frogs are insulated from the tracks leading away and that you have no turnouts at the other ends of the tracks  that gives run-around loops?

as per the link on post#64 of this thread/topic.
 

Ron
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Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. Most certainly, Assume away I have followed the same procedure with all my planks, Three including the latest, fiddleyard. That is what I don’t understand, there is only two sets of points in the fiddleyard and.one set works Faultlessly. I will do some more investigating and report back. Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Ron.  Thank you again. But all the points apart from this set have worked faultlessly . And I will get there, whether I have to start again or not. It is most likely that it is something that I have overlooked? And if so I may even reinstall the three way asymmetric point, who knows?   Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Ron and any other interested parties. We / I have now taken a sideways step, and I am having just as much trouble with a Peco L/ H point, which has been wired the same way that all the other points have been wired, without any trouble. Simple: I solder the  wires, from the Bus, DPDT Slide switch, Stock Rail,and solder them together, it maybe wrong? But it works for me, then I insulate the bare joint with heat shrink tube.  on both sides. And of course the frog wire goes to the centre contact of the DPDT. But on this plank/ module and this point it ain’t working. I could of course begin again, and as much as I don’t want to, it may be the only way???  Best wishes Kevin 

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Sol
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Kevin, do all of your locos fail or just one ?
did the loco stop due to
1. no power on the frog
 or did it stop because
2.  it was shorting out?

1. require the use of a multimeter
2, if shorting, manually push loco thru turnout until it shorts & then fix the problem.

Ron
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Sol
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Kevin, with the problems you are experiencing, perhaps it is time for you to locate a local group/club so you can get actual face-to face help.
Trying to help remotely is very hard in some circumstances when words are not enough, for us to help, photos & drawings are almost a necessity .

Ron
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Hi Ron.    Thank you.  I have prepared a R/ H Electrofrog Point, to test pro tem the position. But I would like to be able to “ Prove “ either way I the problem is with the L/ H point.  Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Ron. And All Interested Parties. When I returned to model Railways after an extremely long  layover, Gary ( from Sydney)Did a plan which I have been  following for wiring Peco Electrofrog points using a DPDT Slide switch, which is in common use today.. with a small hole drilled into the switch knob a wire can operate the point simultaneously to changing the flow of track current.  But I have a simple question, with the Insulated track joiners in position on the frog rails, how is it possible for a Loco to approach the points against them ( the points that is?) with the possibility of “ Splitting the Points???   Best wishes Kevin 

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Sol
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As I previously said Kevin, to help you, we need photos or drawings showing all of your wiring.
 Many of us have done drawings for you or references to follow.

Ron
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Thank you again Ron, I do appreciate what you are saying, and I have followed all the advice and wiring as per.Considering I have wired both sets of points exactly  the same way, and one works faultlessly, then why don’t they both work the same???   At the time of writing, the troublesome point has been lifted and the wiring disconnected, all over the place.   Best wishes Kevin 

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[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:
Thank you again Ron, I do appreciate what you are saying, and I have followed all the advice and wiring as per.Considering I have wired both sets of points exactly  the same way, and one works faultlessly, then why don’t they both work the same???   At the time of writing, the troublesome point has been lifted and the wiring disconnected, all over the place.   Best wishes Kevin 

Kevin, if as you say both are wired the same taking into account they maybe pointing in opposite directions,  as you do not want to provide any photos & drawings of what you have done,  I don't think we can help you so I think you may need Harry Potter to sort it out.

Ron
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Hi Ron.  Thank you for another reply. But I assure you that both sets of points are facing the same way. If one observes the “photos that I have managed to get onto gallery “ with help. The two tunnels, that I am currently working on by adding “ portals “ etc are at the end of the Inglenook. Behind which is the fiddleyard with the two Peco L/ H Electrofrog points. Leading from those two tunnels. Best wishes Kevin 

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Sol
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Most of your photos Kevin, have been deleted and those that are left do not show the wiring too clearly.

You could do a drawing in a spreadsheet using  Excel  or similar of your plan and wiring and attach it to your thread like I have done here. Of course if you have a multifunction printer, draw the plan, etc by hand and scan it as a DOC, PDF or JPG & then attach it the post.

Ron
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Hi Ron.  And all interested parties. Latest update, and being confident with my wiring, as much as every other member of YMRC wasn’t.Today I removed the troublesome L/ H point, dug out a spare/ new R/ H point. I copied the wiring of the L/H point and “ Voila “ everything is working!
and  the Loco Passed along the siding and through the point without faltering , No stalling, and considering this Loco is a Bachmann 0-6-0 it is pretty good . Which reminds me of my phone
call to Peco and the opinion of their “ Expert “ , just to remind you “ no it cannot be the Peco Point “. Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Robert.  This is a very late reply, but, after all my efforts with the three way point, which I have “abandoned” for now and will return to, in the meantime I have had more trouble than expected with a L/ H point, until I swapped it for aR/H point. Which is working without a problem using the same wiring method. Best wishes Kevin 

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You did remember to remove the little link wires under the point Kevin ?

As Sol says, without a photo, we're working in the dark !!  Writing down where to solder wires is highly complicated - with a photo it's simple.

 Additionally, if you have some photos in the gallery, it's an extremely simple matter to copy them to the relevant post so we don't have to search your gallery ………………………….. :thumbs

p.s.  As Sol said, it appears most of your photos have been deleted - did you do that ?




'Petermac
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Hi Petermac    Thank you for your interest, I certainly did cut the wires underneath. Regarding the photos, taking a photo with my iPad was really weird? It was a long time before someone stepped up to the  â€œ plate “ to correct me in the way that I was using my iPad. It turned out that I had to hold the iPad sideways and then the photos make sence.And the early photos were deleted . And then there are the size of the pixels. Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Kevin,

 It may benefit you greatly to see if there's a 'Silver Surfers' or similar computer assistance group locally who can help get your laptop up together again, as changing photo sizes to 800 wide pixels and posting them is just so easy on a laptop

The library, Age Concern, Citizen Advice or the local council office should be able to point you in the right direction.

Bill

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At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
 
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Hi Bill.  Thank you.  But I haven’t used my iPad since I got hacked, and a lot of my contacts received “spurious emails “ claiming to be from me, saying that I was stuck in  The Ukraine and needed money sent to me “.Further more I would have to be careful not to launch more bogus emails, as I need to change it on the Laptop.
Best wishes Kevin 

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